Diesel Engine Setting/Locking Tool Set Instructions

Diesel Engine Setting/Locking Tool Set Instructions

VS123.V2 Tool Set comprises the timing pins and specialised tensioner adjustment tools required for timing belt replacement on all the variants of the Rover 2.0 diesel engine fitted in MG-Rover, Land Rover and Honda models.

FLYWHEEL LOCKING PIN - VS170/1
VS170/1 Locking Pin is used to lock the crankshaft in its timed position. The pin is inserted through a hole in the gearbox mounting back plate and engages a corresponding hole in the flywheel.

INJECTION PUMP LOCKING PIN - VS120/1
VS120/1 Pin locates through a hole in the injection pump sprocket into a recess in the pump mounting flange to lock the injection pump in its timed position.

TENSIONER TOOL - TIMING BELT AUTOMATIC TENSIONER - VS1201
These ‘L Series’ engines require VS1201 to retract the automatic tensioner assembly during timing belt replacement applications. When removing the belt the tensioner nut is slackened and tensioner access plug removed to allow VS1201 to be fitted to pull back/retract the tensioner plunger.

TENSIONER ADJUSTER - INJECTION PUMP BELT AUTOMATIC TENSIONER - VS4739
On Rover 25 and 45 and MG ZR and ZS models the automatic tensioner on the injection pump drive belt requires VS4739 Adjuster to correctly set the tensioner position.
Note: Correct tensioner position varies and depends upon model.
Rover 25/45 up to 2001 usually set the tensioner pointer in line with the notch, whereas after 2001 and on MG models the requirement may be to position the pointer aligned to the lower edge of the tensioner backplate. Check workshop manual for the tensioner position of the specific model being worked on.

Get pdf Diesel Engine Setting/Locking Tool Set Instructions

MORSE Marine Products SL3 Engine Controls Owner’s Manual

MORSE Marine Products SL3 Engine Controls Owner’s Manual

This manual must be accessible to the owner/user of this Morse marine product. Includes Installation, operation and maintenance instructions for your Morse marine product. Please read these Instructions through carefully and entirely before beginning Installation.

• PUSH BUTTON: Used for starling or engine warm-up. When the hand lever is in the neutral detent position, depress the button in the center of thfe handle to enable operation of the throttle without engaging forward or reverse gear. When warm-up Is completed, return the lever to the neutral position: the button will pop back out, making the control ready for normal operation.
• THROTTLE DAMPER:
Adjustment of this screw enables the friction in the throttle operating mechanism to be increased and prevent unwanted handle movement. To adjust, place the hand lever in the forward or reverse throttle position (just beyond the shift position). Remove the cover and adjust the damper screw; turning the screw clockwise increases the friction. Care should be taken not to overtighten.

The Morse Model SL3 Control provides both shift and throttle operation for outboards, ¡nboard/outboards, or ¡nboards with hydraulic* transmissions, or small, manual transmissions (Hurth, Yanmar) with light shifting loads of 15 lbs (6.8kg) max. It can be used with Morse STD.33C, 33C SUPREME, “KM” or “OS” Cables.
* Allison, Borg Warner, Caterpillar, Paragon, Twin Disc, ZF, Newage, Hurth.
STANDARD CONTROL FEATURES
• SINGLE LEVER OPERATION.
• NEUTRAL THROTTLE WARM-UP.
• NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH TO PREVENT STARTING IN GEAR.
• THREE POSITION SHIFT ARM TO PROVIDE 3 TRAVEL OPTIONS.
• FRICTION DAMPER TO PREVENT THROTTLE “CREEP”

Get pdf MORSE Marine Products SL3 Engine Controls Owner’s Manual

Big Bore Kit Install Instructions

Big Bore Kit Install Instructions

Before installing a big bore kit, you should first install a high volume oil pump. A high volume oil pump will deliver up to 300% more oil to your top end which will only help preserve the life of your engine. To install the big bore kit you will need to:
1. Stuff a CLEAN rag behind the piston to seal off the crankcase.
2. Install a c-clip into one side of the piston. When installing the c-clip, compress the c-clip just enough to get it into the piston. Note the position of the c-clip once it is installed.
3. Install the thin retaining rings and the wavy oil ring onto the bottom of groove on the piston. Carefully slide one thin retaining ring on, then the wavy oil ring, and then the other thin retaining ring. Make sure that the gap on each ring faces the opposite direction as shown in the picture.
4. Install the lower piston ring (which is flat black in color) onto the lower groove in the piston. After the lower ring has been installed, install the upper ring, which is shiny in appearance. Note that the gap opening on each ring faces the opposite direction.
5. Lightly coat the wrist pin with clean motor oil.
6. Install the piston onto the crankshaft and secure it into place with the wrist pin. Make sure that the “IN” marking on the piston faces upwards.
7. Carefully install the second c-clip onto the piston to lock it into place. Once again, compress the c-clip just enough to secure it into the piston. Note the position of the installed c-clip.

Get pdf Big Bore Kit Install Instructions

Big Bore Kit Install Instructions

Big Bore Kit Install Instructions

Before installing a big bore kit, you should first install a high volume oil pump. A high volume oil pump will deliver up to 300% more oil to your top end which will only help preserve the life of your engine. To install the big bore kit you will need to:
1. Stuff a CLEAN rag behind the piston to seal off the crankcase.
2. Install a c-clip into one side of the piston. When installing the c-clip, compress the c-clip just enough to get it into the piston. Note the position of the c-clip once it is installed.
3. Install the thin retaining rings and the wavy oil ring onto the bottom of groove on the piston. Carefully slide one thin retaining ring on, then the wavy oil ring, and then the other thin retaining ring. Make sure that the gap on each ring faces the opposite direction as shown in the picture.
4. Install the lower piston ring (which is flat black in color) onto the lower groove in the piston. After the lower ring has been installed, install the upper ring, which is shiny in appearance. Note that the gap opening on each ring faces the opposite direction.
5. Lightly coat the wrist pin with clean motor oil.
6. Install the piston onto the crankshaft and secure it into place with the wrist pin. Make sure that the “IN” marking on the piston faces upwards.
7. Carefully install the second c-clip onto the piston to lock it into place. Once again, compress the c-clip just enough to secure it into the piston. Note the position of the installed c-clip.

Get pdf Big Bore Kit Install Instructions

Expansion Valve Kits XVB18-36C, XVB42-60C, XV18-36C, XV42-60C Installation Instructions

Expansion Valve Kits XVB18-36C, XVB42-60C, XV18-36C, XV42-60C Installation Instructions

Piston must be removed from the Flowrator Distributor Assembly for proper Expansion Valve operation.
To remove piston from Flowrator Distributor Assembly :
1. Loosen the 13/16 nut 1 TURN ONLY, relief pressure. No pressure loss
2. indicates possible leak.
3. Remove the nut and discard the black seal.
4. Remove the check piston and discard.
5. Use a tube cutter to remove the spin closure on the suction line.
6. Remove the tailpiece clamped to the exterior.
7. Braze 347 or 348 to suction line field connection on coil. Make sure to slide back grommet and insulation before brazing.
8. Braze 347 or 348 to suction line tubing (line set).
9. Connect expansion valve outlet to flowrator body. Make sure Teflon seal is in place.
10. NOTE DIRECTION OF FLOW (Fluid is flowing towards the evaporator coil).
11. Slide the 13/16 nut into position. Braze tailpiece to the liquid tube (line set).
12. AFTER THE TAILPIECE HAS COOLED, position the white Teflon seal and hand tighten the nut.
13. Torque the 13/16 nut to 10-30 ft/lb. or tighten 1/6 turn.
14. Connect equalizer tube with 1/4 flare nut to suction line fitting on 347 or 348.
15. Secure expansion valve bulb to suction line with banding straps provided at the 10 o’clock or 2 o’clock position.
16. IMPORTANT: Insulate the bulb and adjacent area.
17. Check for leaks.
18. Re applied the suction line grommet and tube insulation.

Get pdf Expansion Valve Kits XVB18-36C, XVB42-60C, XV18-36C, XV42-60C Installation Instructions

Brute Force Intake System Installation Instructions

Brute Force Intake System Installation Instructions

The AEM Brute Force Intake System is the result of extensive development on a wide variety of cars. It is the most advanced short pipe air intake system on the market. Each system is specifically engineered for its particular application. All AEM Brute Force Intake Systems deliver maximum performance gains through the lightweight, all-aluminum, mandrel-bent tubing that is tuned in both length and diameter. The tube length and diameter are matched for each specific engine to give power over a broad RPM range. Every intake is coated with a high-gloss, heat-reducing Zirconia based powder coating. This special blend of powder coating helps reduce heat penetration, which in turn reduces the temperature of the inlet air charge. The cooler inlet air temperature translates to more power during the combustion process because cool air is denser than warm air. The air mass flow to the engine is increased because of the increased airflow and reduced inlet temperature, which translates to more power.

Read and understand these instructions BEFORE attempting to install this product.
1) Getting Started
a) Make sure vehicle is parked on a level surface.
b) Set parking brake.
c) If engine has run with in the past two hours let it cool down.
2) Removal of the stock intake system.
a) Stock system installed on vehicle.
b) Unplug the inlet air temperature (IAT) and mass air flow (MAF) sensors.
c) Loosen the four wing nuts that secure the air box lid to the lower air box.
d) Loosen the hose clamp securing the stock intake tube to the plastic throttle body adapter. Remove the entire air box lid / MAF sensor / intake tube assembly from the vehicle.

Equipped with AEM DRYFLOW Filter. No oil required!
This kit compatible for following vehicles:
1996-2004 Chevy Blazer 4.3L V6
1996-2004 Chevy S10 4.3L V6
1996-2003 Chevy S15 4.3L V6
1996-2004 GMC Jimmy 4.3L V6
1996-2004 GMC Sonoma 4.3L V6

Get pdf Brute Force Intake System Installation Instructions

Fuel Injections Performance Kits Installation Instructions

Fuel Injections Performance Kits Installation Instructions

TO START:
1. Turn the ignition OFF and disconnect the vehicle’s negative battery cable.
2. Loosen and remove the air cleaner wing nuts, then remove the air cleaner lid.
3. Disconnect the cold inlet tube and then remove the air cleaner base assebmly as shown.
NOTE: Some vehicles are equipped with and air injection check valve which is vented to the air cleaner assembly. On these vehicles, remove the rubber hose and clamp the provided filter to the check valve.
4. Loosen and remove the two bolts that secure the air inlet/resonator, then remove the assembly as shown.
NOTE: K&N recommends that you do not discard your factory air intake.
5. Remove the crank case vent line from the valve cover as shown.
6. Remove the throttle body spacer as shown.
7a. On 92-95 vehicles, remove the two factory throttle body studs as shown.
7b. On 88-91 vehicles, remove the factory “Z” stud.
8. Remove the three factory torx screws as shown.
9. Install the three provided throttle body studs into the three holes from step 8.
NOTE: Apply two drops of Loc-tite to the throttle body studs and torque them to 30 inch-pounds. Failure to follow the above instructions may damage the throttle body.
10. Install the three provided nylock nuts onto the throttle body studs approximately 3/4” down as shown.
11. Install the three flat washers onto the throttle body studs as shown.

Get pdf Fuel Injections Performance Kits Installation Instructions

Petrol Engine Twin Camshaft Setting/Locking Tool Set

Petrol Engine Twin Camshaft Setting/Locking Tool Set

Setting engine timing on all current Ford 16v, Twin Camshaft engines (Zetec/Duratec) requires the tools included in VS1152.V2 Set.
Additionally, replacement of the timing belt requires the crankshaft pulley to be removed and therefore Associated Tools VS1013 or VS4736 are needed, depending upon engine type.
CAMSHAFT SETTING PLATE - VS115/01
1. On all current Ford 16v. twin cam engines (Zetec/Duratec), VS115/01 Setting Plate is used to lock the camshafts in the correct timing position via a slot at the rear of the camshafts.
2. For timing belt replacement on these applications it is important to ensure that the crankshaft is at TDC (see VS115/02 and VS115/03), and that VS115/01 Setting Plate is in position on the camshafts. The tensioner can then be slackened/compressed and the timing belt removed.
3. VS115/01 Setting Plate is also used on the latest Duratec HE chain drive twin cams.
4. With the setting plate locking the camshafts in position, the cam sprockets can be loosened, using a holding tool to counter-hold the sprocket whilst releasing the centre bolt. Some camshafts provide a hexagon to locate a spanner to counter-hold the camshaft.
5. Using the appropriate Location Pin ensure the crankshaft is at TDC before fitting new belt in an anti-clockwise direction. The tensioner should be applied following the manufacturer’s procedure. Using a suitable Sprocket Holding Tool, counter-hold the camshaft sprockets whilst tightening the centre bolt.
6. Remove setting plate and TDC pin.
7. Rotate the engine a least two revolutions and return to TDC position inserting location pin. Re-check camshaft position by ensuring that VS115/01 Setting Plate can be easily inserted into its slots. If not, re-check tensioning procedure again.
NOTE: For Fiesta/Escort 1.6i/1.8i and Mondeo 1.6/1.8/2.0 (-98) 16v. engines, only VS115/01 Cam Setting Plate is used. A crank pin entry point is not provided.

CRANK TDC LOCATION PINS - VS115/02 & VS115/03
1. TDC Location Pins are used in conjunction with VS115/01 Cam Setting Plate to ensure correct timing position is established and maintained during engine timing applications on the following: VS115/02 - Fiesta/Fusion 1.25/1.4/1.6, Focus 1.4/1.6, Puma 1.4/1.6/1.7 16v, Mondeo 1.8/2.0 (chain) and Mazda 121 1.25 16v. VS115/03 - Focus 1.8/2.0 (98-02), Mondeo 1.6/1.8/2.0 , Cougar 2.0 16v.

Get pdf Petrol Engine Twin Camshaft Setting/Locking Tool Set

6.9L & 7.3L 093 Turbo Upgrade Kit

6.9L & 7.3L 093 Turbo Upgrade Kit

You have just purchased the finest turbo system available for the 6.9 and 7.3 liter diesel engine. The following information will assist you in the installation of your ATS turbo system.

IMPORTANT: It is very important to read all the instructions carefully prior to any installation of your turbo system. Normal mechanical and safety procedures should be followed.

1. Disconnect both batteries at the negative terminals.
2. Remove the air cleaner and the air cleaner canister from the engine.
3. Remove the 1/2″ nut holding the wire loom clamp to the rear engine lifting bracket.
4. Remove the rear engine lifting bracket.
5. On the 1983-1992 year models, the vacuum block located above the right bank valve cover (passenger side) needs to be unbolted from fire wall. Then, if the vehicle has sound insulating blanket covering the fire wall, you must remove one half or approximately 14″ off the passenger side using a utility knife. If there is any insulation that is left hanging loose, it should be retained to the fire wall using the screws removed from the passenger side. Next, reinstall the vacuum block, using an 1/8″ drill bit, three inches more to the passenger side and three inches higher than the original location.
NOTE: On the 1992 1/2 and new trucks, the vacuum block has been relocated to the drivers side inner fender
6. On vehicles with an automatic transmission, you need to remove the 1/2″ cap screw holding the dipstick tube and vacuum line to the bell housing. Remove the dipstick tube. Next on 1983-1988 year models, move the vacuum line to the drivers side of the transmission and then secure the vacuum line to the transmission with a 1/2″ cap screw. Reinstall the 1/2″ cap screw on the passenger side of the transmission. On some 1991 and all 1992-1993 trucks, there is a ground strap on the back of the right cylinder head (passenger side). Remove the ground strap from the back of the cylinder head and bolt it to the top of the head, using one of the valve cover bolts on the passenger side.
NOTE: There are different dipstick tubes for the C6 and the E4OD Transmissions.
7. Using a pry bar or a piece of 2″ pipe, Bend the lip on the fire wall rearward directly behind the right bank head (passenger side), where the head shield is riveted to the body.

Download pdf 6.9L & 7.3L 093 Turbo Upgrade Kit

Swapping US V8 engines into Mercedes 350SL/380SL/450SL

Swapping US V8 engines into Mercedes 350SL/380SL/450SL

Putting an American V8 Engine into a Mercedes 107 Chassis
Most owners find a 450SL’s power to be “adequate.” It’s a heavy car for its size, though, and it’s stately rather than aggressive or impressive in its acceleration. In additon, the high cost of an engine rebuild leads many to consider swapping in an American V8 as an alternative to having their 4.5 liter V8 rebuilt when the time comes for a rebuild. “So why aren’t engine swaps more frequently done?”

First of all, there are no “kits” of engine mounts, electricals, and so forth that would make such a swap easier (there are kits for Jaguars, but not for older Mercedes). As a result, every swap is “from scratch” - as a fellow 450SL owner commiserated:

“(Chevy 350) engine is in the car but (does) not fit, the oil filter casing is up against the steering box, we will have to use the remote oil filtering kits that are out there, if we can just get the casing to clear the box. When I decided to start to put money into the project I put an add in the Denver Post (that is where I’m from) to see if there were any shop’s or mechanics out there capable of the swap. This was after researching the project and deciding I wanted to try it because of the cost of the MBZ engine and its lack of power. I had already had the top end rebuilt several years back and considered it then. I had several calls and settled on the one who seemed the most optimistic about the project. Needless to say if (such swaps) have been done, the information is not really out there. I went with a Mechanic who had his own machine shop…..he machined the mounts and may have to machine a custom pan and reconfigure the tunnel for the transmission, my meeting on Saturday is going to be to discuss the time it would take to undertake this type of fabrication. Money will start to be an issue. The engine is new with out a mile on it, all the parts I have purchased are high quality so I have about $8000 in the parts including the engine. Have not paid the Mechanic yet but that will not be cheap I will have to draw a line somewhere along the way. I can still get the money back out of my parts but if I committed to the major re fabrication the cost of the Mechanic may be greater than the outcome. So I’m getting to the point of either pulling the plug or jumping in 100%.

I did consider other drive trains at the time but was only able to come up with the little information I was able to find on the Chevy swap. Nothing at all on the Ford or Mopar. There is an old publication of a book called engine swaps that had some information on the 350 into the 300 MBZ (sedan). This is where the suggestion of the Nova oil pan was found, also showed the link up from the tranny to the rear end. A few other suggestions that we thought would work in this application that have not yet panned out.

As it looks now if the pan is not the solution, moving the power steering is something that would cost more. Also the (widening) of the tunnel is a time thing; I do not really think that is a problem but the labor starts to add up. Tie rods were a problem also but it looks like my guy has figured that one out. The accel and trans linkage were both addressed in the book I talked about so those are not a problem… I talked to someone else this morning and they suggested a dry sump with a shallower racing oil pan.”

Get pdf Swapping US V8 engines into Mercedes 350SL/380SL/450SL

CVT Basics - Constant Variable Transmissions

CVT Basics - Constant Variable Transmissions

One thing people regularly wonder about is how a CVT (Constant Variable Transmission) works. CVTs are used mostly in scooters, like the 50cc Aprilia SR50 DiTech this document describes, but some larger scooters also use CVTs, and they are even being used on some Audis now! If you’ve ever been confused about that strange little transmission in your scooter, this should help clear things up a bit.

CVTs are quite simple in design, but since every part must work in concert with all the others, it can be difficult to visualize their operation, and understand how each part fits into the whole. The drawings are not to scale, but are meant to just give you a better idea about what is going on.

This document was originally written by Scott (AKA Scootnfast) on the ApriliaForum website. I have done a bit of editing so that things make sense in a non-forum context, but all the photos and info are his, and have been reproduced with his permission.

For other articles available check out the list or read on to continue this article. People ask a lot about different roller weights, clutch springs, contra springs variators and belts. This is an attempt to put the effect these have on your CVT in simple terms.

The truth of the matter is, a new variator, springs, or weights WILL NOT increase your vehicles over all power! The power your vehicle produces depends on the engine, not the transmission. What it does do is adjust your rate of acceleration, and at what RPM your motor runs at while it is accelerating, and at what speed the motor is reving when you reach the highest gear ratio available.

Now having said both of those things, the key is to have your motor running at the RPM where it creates the most horsepower consistently while accelerating. This value will be different for different engines. For the Aprilia SR50 DiTech used in this explanation, The max power is created between 8000 - 8500 RPMs. If you are accelerating at 5000 RPM’s or 9500 RPM’s, this will decrease your acceleration because your horsepower is not at it’s peak. This goal is achieved through trial and error. Changing first your contra spring, and then trying different roller weights is how one might go about doing this. In order for you to understand which way you need to go with weights and springs, you must first understand how the entire drive train works

Get pdf CVT Basics - Constant Variable Transmissions

Aprilia Engine 50 cc Quick Workshop Handbook

Aprilia Engine 50 cc Quick Workshop Handbook

- This manual contains all the essential information for carrying out routine vehicle procedures.
- The information and diagrams in the manual are up-to-date at the time of publication.
- This publication is intended for use by Aprilia dealers and their trained mechanics. A large number of procedures do not require explanation and therefore have been omitted. It has not been possible to give detailed mechanical data for every procedure. All personnel consulting this manual must therefore possess the basis skills of a mechanic and be thoroughly familiar with the most common motor cycle repair procedures. Without these skills and the necessary familiarity any repair or routine maintenance INTRODUCTION operation may be ineffective or even dangerous.
- Given the fact that it is not possible to provide detailed descriptions of all procedures, special care must be taken for whatever repair or maintenance work is done, in order to prevent damage to the vehicle and injury to persons.
- In order to provide the best level of customer satisfaction, Aprilia s.p.a. constantly improves its products and relevant documentation. All important technical changes and alterations to procedures are notified to all Aprilia dealers, branches and points of sale throughout the world. All changes will be included in later editions of this manual.
- If you have any doubts or queries about the procedures described in this manual, please contact the Aprilia Consumer Service (A.C.S.) Department, who will be pleased to give you all the information and explanations you require, and to bring you up to date with any changes.

Get pdf Aprilia Engine 50 cc Quick Workshop Handbook

1999 Aprilia MA50 - MY50 Engine Repair Manual

1999 Aprilia MA50 - MY50 Engine Repair Manual

Power Plant
Removing the cylinder head
Caution : The manufacturer assumes no responsibility for damage resulting from the use of unsuitable tools for the removal and refitting of the engine or any part of it.
When the engine is in place, the cylinder head, the cylinder, the piston and the reed valve can be exposed by removing the following parts: exhaust pipe, air filter casing, carburettor.

Drain all the coolant. (This operation must be performed before removing the engine from the chassis.)
Caution: : The coolant must not be disposed of in the environment. The disposal must be carried out in compliance with the regulations in force.

Remove the spark plug and the two pipes of the carburettor heating system with the four clamps. Loosen the four cylinder-head flanged locknuts (1) by unscrewing them a half turn at a time. Remove the cylinder head.
IMPORTANT: Remove the cylinder head with the two sealing rings (inner and outer). Before removing the two pipes of the carburettor heating system, pay special attention to the way they are connected so as to ensure proper refitting.

Removing the thermostat
Loosen the two screws (1) shown in the figure, remove the thermostat and check its mechanical condition.
IMPORTANT: Before removing the two thermostat fixing screws, ensure that they are not excessively encrusted with coolant residues. On account of their small size, the screws may break if overstressed. If necessary use a release agent.

Get pdf 1999 Aprilia MA50 - MY50 Engine Repair Manual

Using AMSOIL in engines with possible sludge issues

Using AMSOIL in engines with possible sludge issues

To inform AMSOIL customers that operating conditions of certain engine designs are re- ported to be “abnormal”. According to Consumer Reports, the engines identified in this bulletin appear to be prone to sludge. The use of AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils at regular drain intervals established by the vehicle manufacturer will reduce the likelihood of sludge formation, provide the best protection, and insure that the vehicle manufacturer honors your extended warranty.

ISSUES:
The August 2005 issue of Consumer Reports identified engines from four different automobile manufacturers that are candidates for possible sludge problems. To satisfy customers, Audi/Volkswagen, Lexus/Toyota, and Saab have all extended their warranties to 8-years/unlimited mileage. Chrysler/Dodge is the only manufacturer without an extended warranty program and handles claims on a case-by-case basis.

Provisions of the extended engine warranty coverage include changing the oil within the OEM recommended interval and maintaining documentation for proof.

TECHNICAL DISCUSSION:
Sludge formation is caused by the oil being subjected to abnormal operating conditions such as high heat, excessive blow-by gasses, glycol contamination or poor crankcase ventilation to name a few. Sludge formation, if severe enough, can block the oil passages and oil pump pick up screen, resulting in oil starvation.

AMSOIL Synthetic Oils have better oxidation resistance, detergency, and dispersancy than conventional petroleum oils. AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils do a better job of resisting sludge. However, they will not stop sludge formation under abnormal engine operating conditions. The use of synthetic oil for the best possible engine protection is endorsed by Consumer Reports.

RECOMMENDATION:
Purchasers of used vehicles listed in Table A should take extra precautions to protect their purchases by reviewing maintenance records or requesting an internal engine inspection prior to purchase. Follow regular OEM recommended drain intervals with the appropriate AMSOIL XL Synthetic Motor Oil for Audi/VW and Saab.

Get pdf Using AMSOIL in engines with possible sludge issues

12-Volt Alternator Installation & Operation Manual

12-Volt Alternator Installation & Operation Manual

This alternator is uniquely designed and engineered to provide the finest performance and durability for your vessel. Unlike most automotive-type alternators found standard on the majority of pleasure craft and marketed as lower-priced marine alternatives, our marine alternators are built specifically to provide exceptional output at lower engine r.p.m’s typical of marine diesel engines, so you can enjoy shorter charge cycles, greater economy, longer battery life and less noise and fumes.

When used in conjunction with Balmar microprocessor-controlled Max Charge and ARS-4 multi-stage regulators, your new Balmar alternator can provide even greater efficiency when charging deep-cycle flooded, standard flooded, gel, AGM, Optima and other marine battery technologies. When preset for your battery type, the smart regulator will guide your alternator through a charging program that’s tailored to provide your batteries with the best care possible. In addition, Balmar multi-stage regulators provide the ability to temperature sense at your alternator. Should an over-temperature condition occur with an alternator temperature sensor (MC-TS-A) installed, the regulator will reduce field output to 50 percent to allow the alternator to cool under lesser load, and the Dash Lamp circuit on the regulator will activate to provide power for a visual or audible alert, enabling the user to respond to the source of the over-temperature condition. Together, the Balmar high-output alternator and multi-stage regulator work to assure the best charge possible.

Get pdf 12-Volt Alternator Installation & Operation Manual

RY 125 Series Engines Engine Manual

RY 125 Series Engines Engine Manual

We have done all in our power to give up to date and accurate technical information in this manual. Ruggerini engines are, however, constantly developing thus the data in this publication may be liable to modification without prior notice. The information in this manual is the exclusive property of Ruggerini. Neither partial nor total duplications or reprints are therefore permitted without the express authorization of Ruggerini.

The information in this manual is given on the assumption that:
1 - The persons who service Ruggerini engines have been adequately trained and outfitted to safely and professionally carry out the necessary tasks;
2 - The persons who service Ruggerini engines possess the necessary skills and special Ruggerini tools to safely and professionally carry out the necessary tasks;
3 - The persons who service Ruggerini engines have read the specific information concerning the above mentioned Service operations and that they have clearly understood the operations required.

GENERAL SERVICE NOTES
1 - Only use genuine Ruggerini spare parts. Use of spurious spares may lead to incorrect performance and shorten the life of the engines.
2 - The metric system is used to express all data, i.e. the dimensions are given in millimeters (mm), torque is expressed in Newton-meters (Nm), weight in kilograms (kg), volume in liters or cubic centimeters (cc) and pressure in barometric units (bar).

Get pdf RY 125 Series Engines Engine Manual

SF 500-HP Installation and Operating Instructions

SF 500-HP Installation and Operating Instructions

The SuperFlush™ permanently mounted flushing system back-flushes your entire engine while the engine is off. You must flush your engine after each use to prevent the damaging effects of saltwater corrosion. To use the SuperFlush System, simply connect a dockside water source to the hose connection access panel provided in the kit and installed on your boat. The flushing operation takes four minutes to fully clean your entire engine water system.

Use of Chemicals with the SuperFlush™ System
SuperFlush offers as the following chemicals as, approved materials for use with the system :
1. FLUSHCLEAR
2. RUSTGUARD
3. Any approved auto antifreeze
Only SuperFlush approved materials are warranted for use with this system.

PRECAUTIONS!
1) SuperFlush should only be installed on the recommended engine system that it is designed for.
2) If your engine has mufflers in a through transom exhaust system, make sure that during the flush cycle, the water can free flow out of the engine.
3) Flush the engine for approximately four minutes.
4) Disconnect the dockside water source from the SuperFlush system before leaving the boat.
5) When flushing the engine with the boat in the water, make sure that conditions are calm (less than one and a half feet of chop).
6) Never run the engines while the SuperFlush system is in use.

Get pdf SF 500-HP Installation and Operating Instructions

RS900ERII/RS901II Series II Remote Engine Starting System Installation Instructions

RS900ERII/RS901II Series II Remote Engine Starting System Installation Instructions

PROGRAM/OVERRIDE SWITCH: 2 PIN PLUG
This switch is used primarily for programming features of the RS900/901. However, if the Anti-Grind/Starter disable feature is installed, you MUST INSTALL this switch. This switch will allow the user to override the starter disable in the event of a non-operating remote control.

LED: 2 PIN PLUG
The LED is only used as a VALET/PROGRAMMING indicator. The LED comes on solid when the unit is in valet or programming mode. The LED is not a mandatory installation item.
12 PIN PLUG:
PIN 1: YELLOW: (-) IGNITION 1 OUTPUT (FOR RELAY)
PIN 2: YELLOW/WHITE: (-) IGN2/ACC OUTPUT (FOR RELAY)
Use these wires when the vehicle requires a second IGNITION 1, IGNITION 2, or ACCESSORY wire to be activated. This occurs commonly in Toyota, and late model GM cars.
PIN 3: BLACK: MAIN SYSTEM GROUND
Connect to chassis metal of the vehicle. An existing bolt or screw MAY provide an adequate ground, or drill a small hole, scrape away paint and attach using a sheet metal screw & star washer. If this wire is not connected OR connected to a point on the vehicle that provides a poor ground, undesirable and inconsistent operation will occur.
PIN 4: YELLOW/BLACK: (-) ANTI-GRIND/STARTER KILL OUTPUT
Use this wire for the negative side of the Anti-Grind/Starter Disable relay. It can also be used for the sensor disable circuit for a host alarm for RS901. This output activates whenever a remote start is requested, and when the vehicle is remotely locked with the transmitter.

Get pdf RS900ERII/RS901II Series II Remote Engine Starting System Installation Instructions

Automatic Transmission Fluid

Automatic Transmission Fluid

The next time you check the fluid level in an automatic, sniff the fluid on the end of the dip stick. If it smells like burned toast and/or has a discolored brown appearance, the fluid has cooked itself and is no longer capable of providing proper lubrication to the transmission. If you’re lucky, you may have caught the problem before serious damage has been done — but more often than not by the time the fried fluid is discovered, the transmission is also toast.

Compared to motor oil, ATF has live pretty easy. There’s no soot, gasoline or condensation from combustion blowby to contaminate the fluid. The only physical contaminants the fluid must deal with are particles that wear off the friction plates, gears and bearings inside the transmission. Most transmissions have some type of internal filter to keep the fluid clean. Some do a pretty good job, but others don’t. Most Asian transmissions only have a plastic or metal strainer that can only trap the larger pieces of debris. The rest circulates with the fluid and accelerates wear. Changing the fluid is the only way to get rid of these contaminants.

Heat is the main concern for ATF. Automatic transmissions create a lot of friction, and friction produces heat. The fluid is constantly churning inside the torque converter and being pumped through metering orifices and hydraulic circuits. Every time the transmission shifts gears, the clutch packs generate even more heat that must be carried away by the fluid. The greater the load on the transmission, the more heat it generates and the hotter the fluid gets. Most ATF can withstand normal operating temperatures of around 200 degrees F for tens of thousands of miles. But if the temperature of the fluid rises above 220 degrees F the fluid starts to break down quickly. Above 300 degrees, fluid life is measured in hundreds, not thousands of miles. And above 400 degrees, the fluid can self- destruct in 20 to 30 minutes!

ATF contains ingredients to improve its oxidation stability as well as other additives to reduce foaming and inhibit corrosion. Over time, the protective additives can also break down causing the fluid’s lubrication properties and viscosity to change for the worse. That’s why fluid breakdown is the leading cause of transmission operating problems and failure. Most experts still recommend changing the fluid and filter every 2 to 3 years or 24,000 to 36,000 miles — or once a year or every 15,000 miles if a vehicle is used for towing or other severe service use.

Get pdf Automatic Transmission Fluid

T-Engine Vendor Code System

T-Engine Vendor Code System

The T-Engine Project has been established to offer an open, real-time standardized development environment with the aim of achieving a ubiquitous computing environment where everything has a computer incorporated in it and is connected to a network. T-Engine is trying to offer an efficient development environment for the development of portable information devices, home electronic appliances and other network devices in a short period of time.

T-Engine employs network security architecture called eTRON whose architecture is intended to prevent tapping, falsification, and disguise of malicious users so that electronic information can be safely delivered to the other party through insecure network channels.

To support efficient development, T-Engine standardizes hardware (T-Engine board) and realtime kernel (T-Kernel), and especially encourages distribution of middleware. T-Engine is also aimed at smoothing cooperation among semiconductor makers, hardware makers, software makers and system manufacturers, encouraging mutual business dealings, reducing development time and cost, thus enabling high value added product offerings in a short period of time. The combination of advanced semiconductors, implementation and software technologies in T-Engine makes it suitable and unrivaled for the development of advanced application products.

Get pdf T-Engine Vendor Code System