Auto Manual Resource: Misc

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Multi-Vehicle Databus Doorlock & Window Roll Up Module

Selecting The Vehicle Type
Switches 1,2, and 3 are used to select vehicle type. Use the chart on the back of these instructions to determine which of the above switch settings you will need.
Window Roll Up Function
Turn Switch 4 on (up position) to enable the window roll up function or off (down position) to disable window roll up. Window roll up is not available for all vehicle types. Use the chart on the back of these instructions to determine which vehicles are compatible.
Wire Connections
Black Wire - Connect this wire to chassis ground. Use a properly sized crimp on ring terminal and fasten it to an existing bolt in the vehicle. Remove any rust or paint that could prevent a solid, clean connection.
Yellow/Green Disarm Wire (only required on vehicles with factory keyless entry)- Connect this wire to the host system’s disarm output. Whenever this wire receives a negative pulse, it will disarm the factory alarm. NOTE: This connection is not required for disarm on unlock. The factory alarm is also disarmed when the doors are unlocked.
Yellow/Red Arm Wire (only required on vehicles with factory keyless entry)- Connect this wire to the host system’s arm or lock output. Whenever this wire receives a negative pulse, it will turn off the RAP circuit and arm the factory alarm. NOTE: This connection is required for arm and lock on GM vehicles. Violet Data Wire - Tap this wire into the Violet wire (Yellow/Violet in Jeep vehicles) found at pin #2 in the vehicle’s diagnostic connector under the driver’s side of the dash. 4 Pin Doorlock Connector - Plug this into the doorlock port of the host system. On systems equipped only with a 3 pin doorlock port AND in vehicles with factory keyless entry, it is necessary to move the Pink wire to the position of the Blue wire in this connector and the Blue wire will not be used.
NOTE: Make sure the driver’s door is closed when testing. Some vehicles require two pulses for lock if the driver’s door is open.

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Peripheral Electronics Audio2car Interface Instructions Manual

The Audio2car is designed to provide endless hours of listening pleasure through most vehicles’ factory radios. To ensure that your Mobile Device performs correctly in your car or truck, we recommend that you read this entire manual before attempting installation of the Audio2car interface.

The Audio2car interface will allow you to connect your Mobile Device to a factory radio that has the ability to control a CD changer. The Audio2car is designed to be used with all iPods, mp3 players, portable DVD players, video game systems and any other portable device with traditional audio outputs.

PREVENTING DAMAGE TO YOUR VEHICLE OR MOBILE DEVICE.
To eliminate the risk of an electrical short, we recommend disconnecting the car battery in most vehicles, except in the following situations:
• Vehicles equipped with on-board navigation should not have the car’s battery disconnected. Doing so may cause loss of memory settings. These settings would then have to be reprogrammed by an authorized car dealer for a fee to be paid by the vehicle’s owner. For these vehicles, we recommend extreme caution when handling exposed 12V power or ground wires/connectors.
• Vehicles that incorporate a security-code protecting the radio. If the car’s battery or the radio’s power plugs are disconnected, the radio will not operate without re-entering the security-code. If you have access to the security-code, feel comfortable disconnecting the battery and the radio’s power connectors. Other wise, do not disconnect the battery and exercise extreme caution while handling exposed 12V power or ground wires/connectors.

PROPER MOUNTING LOCATION
Securely install the interface in a location free from; heat, humidity, moving parts or direct sunlight. Beware of hot-air flow from your vehicle’s climate control system. We recommend securing the interface to a suitable location, free of sharp metal edges, using; double sided tape, Velcro or wire ties.

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ADB Focus Universal Remote Instructions Manual

By choosing the FOCUS 3-MODE remote you have opted for the User Friendly remote control solution. Made according to the highest quality, the FOCUS 3-MODE will provide you with long-term satisfaction. Please read these enclosed instructions carefully before putting your FOCUS 3-MODE to use.
Batteries
Your FOCUS 3-MODE Remote requires 2 new “AA/LR6″ Alkaline batteries.
1. Push and slide the battery door downwards and lift it up to remove it.
2. Match the batteries to the (+) and (–) marks inside the battery case, then insert the batteries.
3. Place the battery cover by sliding upwards and allowing it to click back into position.
- It is recommended that you do not use rechargeable batteries.
- On the inside of the battery compartment door you will find a label on which to write your Set-Up Codes for future reference.

The Keypad
Please refer to the picture of the UNIVERSAL FOCUS 3-MODE Remote Control.
1. Device Keys:
The TV, DVD & STB keys select the home entertainment device you wish to control. For example, pressing the
TV key allows the remote to control the functions of your television. Pressing the DVD key allows the remote to access either DVD or VCR devices.
2. LED:
During the use of your FOCUS 3-MODE, the LED under the corresponding device key will light up red.
3. AV Key:
The AV key operates the same function it did on your original remote.
4. Menu Key:
The Menu key brings up the menu of the device that is selected.
5. Power Key:
The Power key powers whatever device is selected. Select TV, Power to turn your TV on and off.
6. Shift Key:
The Shift key is used to set-up your FOCUS 3-MODE Remote Control and to access special functions.
7. Number Keys:
The Number keys (0-9) provide the functions just like your original remote, such as the direct access to program/channel selection.
8. Guide Key:
After pressing the STB device key, the Guide key brings up the on-screen TV Guide.
9. Channel Up / Down Control:
These keys will allow you to move through the channels.
10. CC
The Closed Caption key mutes the volume and allows for closed captioning.
11. Volume Up / Down Control:
These keys will adjust the volume level of your device.
12. Directional Keys
These keys will allow you to navigate through the menu of your device.
13. OK key
This key can be used to verify any Menu operation.

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Air ByPass Valve Installation Instructions: 20-400s, 20-401s, 20-402s & 20-403s

The AEM air bypass valve is ONLY compatible with genuine AEM intake systems. You must ensure that the valve is installed in the correct location for your vehicle and that the rubber soft mount that was originally supplied with the AEM intake is properly installed. The structural integrity of the valve depends on correct installation. Use of the AEM Air Bypass Valve in conjunction with any other system is neither recommended nor warranted and may result in, among other things, malfunction of the AEM Air Bypass Valve.

The AEM Air Bypass Valve is NOT TO BE USED ON TURBO or SUPERCHARGED engines. Use of the AEM bypass valve on engines with these modifications, will void any warranty of the valve and reduce the performance of the vehicle. The AEM Air Bypass Valve can be used in nitrous applications where the fogger nozzle is installed in the intake pipe only when the nozzle is installed in between the bypass valve and the throttle body.

AEM has developed an Air Bypass Valve for its Cold Air Induction Systems. This valve installs on the intake pipe along the same axis as the throttle body and eliminates the chance of water ingestion should the filter element become wet from rain, hail, sleet, snow, flood or any other scenario where the filter element could encounter or become completely submerged in water. The Air Bypass Valve is designed to open when the filter element becomes completely submerged in water thereby preventing terminal engine damage. The Air Bypass Valve is available in three sizes to fit every AEM intake system diameter. It’s crafted from mineral reinforced polycarbonate, which has outstanding corrosion resistance properties.

The AEM Air Bypass Valve is manufactured and assembled in the U.S.A. and is patent pending. There is a foam filter around the bypass valve. Do not remove it. This filter is required for proper operation of the valve while it is active. The foam spring inside the diaphragm provides the proper tension for the valve diaphragm. Do not remove this foam spring.

Read and understand these instructions BEFORE attempting to install this product. If you are installing a Cold Air System (CAS) and an Air Bypass Valve onto a vehicle that has never had a CAS installed on it before then DO NOT cut the inlet pipe until a mounting location for the Air Bypass Valve has been determined. This requires that the CAS be installed first in order to determine a good mounting location for the Air Bypass Valve.

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GB Fitting Instructions for Basic Carrier

First Time Installation
Remove parts from packaging and check contents. Contact your Prorack dealer if parts are missing or damaged.
This kit fits type A, B and C.
These instructions show type A crossbar fitted. They also apply to type B and C.
NOTE: Clamp images in these instructions may not be representative of the clamps in this kit
Use keys to remove covers.
Use hex screwdriver to reverse adjusting screw 10 turns.
Press adjusting screw and pull crossbar legs out. Refer to the crossbar instructions for crossbar adjustment. Ensure each end of the crossbar is adjusted equally ‘X’.
Remove locking screw.
Cut protective strip in four equal lengths.
Apply protective strip as shown.
Trim if required.
Attach clamp to each leg. NOTE; clamps may have labels showing their positions on the vehicle (For example; “Front Right”)
Refit locking screw so that it goes through the hole in the clamp. Do not begin to tighten the locking screw.
Fit rubber pad (supplied with crossbar) to foot.
Make sure the pad fits into the holes underneath the foot.
Place crossbar on vehicle. Minimum recommended spacing between the bars is 700mm (unless otherwise stated).
Adjust the legs on the crossbar so that they are positioned equally from the ends of the crossbar, and the clamps engage firmly on the body work of the vehicle.
Tighten adjusting screw to 5 Nm.

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G T Simulated Beadlock Installation Instructions

With simulated beadlock wheels, you must mount your tires before installing the simulated beadlock ring, and conversely, you must remove the simulated beadlock rings prior to demounting and changing your tires. Included with your wheels are hardware packs that include 16 short, stainless button head Allen bolts, 6 long, stainless button head Allen bolts, and 22 stainless flat washers with each wheel. The 16 short bolts and washers should be installed on the ring in the 16 threaded holes prior to mounting the ring to the wheel.

Once those are installed, you’ll have 6 non-threaded holes left open and those are the holes used to install the beadlock ring onto the welded on ring.

The simulated beadlock ring is attached to the ring that is welded to the wheel by the 6 long bolts and washers, and there are six holes in the simulated beadlock ring that are not threaded which these bolts go through and into the threaded inserts that are already pressed into the welded on ring.
You will have to rotate the simulated beadlock ring, on top the welded ring, in order to align the mounting holes in sequence with the threaded inserts, since the holes are not in an equal pattern. Once lined up, install the long bolts and washers through the holes, and into the threaded inserts, and tighten down. Do not over tighten, as you can, with enough pressure, spin the threaded inserts inside the aluminum mounting ring.
After all bolts and washers are installed, check the tightness of each bolt to make sure the ring is secure.

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Dual Battery Cradle Fitting Instructions

For many years the number of plates per cell was taken as a guide to the engine cranking power provided by the battery. However, over time this criteria proved to be misleading. Starting power is a function of the area of plate surface exposed to acid. If all plates were the same size (and therefore the same area) plates per cell would be a useful comparative guide. However, plate dimensions vary dramatically from one manufacturer to another. To overcome this difficulty, in1985 the Australian battery manufacturers adopted the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) standard for cranking capability. Under the SAE standard, battery cranking power is specified in CCA’s (cold cranking amps).

To make a valid comparison from one battery to another, it is absolutely vital for both battery performances to be quoted against the same standard test. Performances quoted at higher temperatures, shorter durations or to higher end voltages, can be manipulated so as to appear superior to SAE ratings.

ACCESSORIES POWER (AMP Hour Capacity)
The power available from a fully charged battery to operate accessories is a function of the weight of reactive lead contained on the battery plates, below the acid level. The weight of reactive material depends on the thickness of plates, area of plates below the acid level and the number of plates in each cell.

For many years the power available for accessories was quoted as ‘amp hours’. In the case of automotive batteries, the amp hour rating was a statement of the amps that could be provided continuously for 20 hours. Whilst the amp hour rating did provide a rough guide to the weight of reactive lead available, it completely failed to indicate the ability of the battery to power the full vehicle accessory load. Some battery distributors use less severe tests conducted at higher temperatures to disguise low performance batteries. The Australian Standard specifies a standard measure for reserve capacity.
The reserve capacity rating for a battery is an attempt to specify in minutes how long a battery could keep the vehicle running in the case of a complete alternator failure with a notional level of accessories in use.
COLD CRANKING AMPS (CCA)
The international recognised battery performance test: the discharge load in amperes which a new fully charged battery at 18C (0F) can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain a voltage of 1.2 volts per cell or higher.
RESERVE CAPACITY (Minutes)
The time in minutes that a new fully charged battery will supply a constant load of 25 Amps at 25°C without the voltage falling below 10.5 volts for a 12 volt battery and 5.25 for 6 volt battery.

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HyperDrive Startup Guide

You will need a portable crane and/or a friend to lift the motor from the crate and on to the boat. Take your time and be careful. Keep fingers clear of pinch points near the mount and swivel.
Uncrating: Remove the handle and mount it to the side of the engine with three, 3/8″ bolts. Be careful not to stretch the handle wires and cables. The washers and nylock nuts installon the inside of the handle mount near the slots. The handle bolts must be snug enough to hold the handle firmly, but yet allow the handle to move up and down freely.

Unscrew the mounting clamps wide enough to easily slip over your transom. Do not use tools to tighten the clamp handles.
Mounting: When you mount the motor, it will be 1″ off center, away from the operator side of the boat, or to the left when standing near the transom facing the bow. (the Hyper propeller runs on the surface and pulls slightly to the left. By offsetting the engine, this helps reduce prop torque.) Place a mark at that point to facilitate quick mounting. When you run the Hyper, if it still pulls, you can bend the lower skeg (which is already prebent). Only do this after you have run the motor an hour or so and get accustomed to the tilt and trim adjustment. If the engine is trimmed up too far, it will also pull to one side.
- Carefully lift the motor and set it on the transom. Again, being careful not to jar or tweak the handle mounting cups. When in place, snug up the mounting clamps hand tight. If you have an older boat with a worn or a weak transom, you can add a piece of plywood or metal plate between the boat and mounting clamps. Two mounting bracket holes are provided in the mount face if you want to add 3/8″ bolts to the mount. They help hold the engine in place and deter theft.
- Connect the battery cables to the battery. We provided a group 24 size battery box. We recommend a group 24 marine cranking battery with 550 cranking amps or more. Red to (+) and black to ( -). Rotate the engine back and forth to ensure the cables travel freely.
- Electric Tilt and Trim: Read the cautions for its use on the control panel. Most importantly, don’t force the drive up or down with the handle while the actuator is running. Do not rock the actuator control back and forth causing the motor to forward and then in reverse while running. This can cause premature failure. Engine Oil: Add oil to your engine. Use a good grade of synthetic 10W-30 oil. Check the dipstick with the engine in the level position. You can use a synthetic or synthetic blend.

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Electronic Signal Modifier Installation Instructions

These instructions are only a guide to proper installation. It is the technicians’ responsibility to confirm all connections are correct, use of the proper factory service manual is recommended. We recommend that only a competent and qualified mechanic perform this installation
1) Disconnect negative terminal of battery.
2) Confirm correct plug, pin # and wire colors on ECU and ESM match the diagram provided. All connections are in one plug, check diagram for your vehicle. If there is any discrepancy between your car and the instructions consult the factory service manual to confirm proper pin locations.
3) Locate and confirm Signal wire from MAP sensor to ECU. Cut wire approximately 2” from plug. Strip a 1/2” of jacket off each end of the signal wire to expose the bare wire. Using the smaller of the two solder splice connectors (Clear adhesive ring) connect the signal from the ECU to the green wire on the ESM. Using the other small/clear solder splice connector connect the signal wire from the MAP sensor to the blue wire on the ESM.
4) Locate and confirm the MAP sensor ground wire. Cut the wire approximately 2” from plug. Strip a 1/2” of jacket off each end of the ground wire to expose the bare wire. Using the larger solder splice connector (red adhesive ring) connect the black wire from the ESM to the ground wire. On one side of the solder splice connector you will have one wire coming from the ECU into it and on the other side you will have two wires going into it, one from the MAP sensor along with the black wire from the ESM.

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Packing & Caring For Your Giant Loop Saddlebag

Packing Tips
• Do not overstuff or over-load Saddlebag. The whole concept here is to tour with the lightest load possible. Go lighter, go faster.
• See fig A. Pack sleeping bag first by pulling through one side opening and out the other to distribute volume evenly. Then, pack other items to evenly distribute the load from side-to-side. Last things to go in: tools and rain gear.
• To avoid wearing through the pack from vibrations, pack all sharp and/or hard items inside a protective layer. For example, create a sleeve for tire irons from a section of old inner tuber and pack other tools in Dave’s Oil Bottle Toolkit; wrap other hard items in clothing.
• Use compression straps to secure tent, tarp, bivy sack, sleeping pad, rain gear and other lightweight items to outside of bag.
• Although Giant Loop Saddlebags are water resistant, they are not totally dust or waterproof. These are built with 1050 Ballistic Cordura, literally the toughest product we could find but if you are going to be in torrential rain, pack gear inside heavy-duty trash bags or waterproof stuff sacks, then secure in or on bag. Been there and that actually works.
• Visit our website at GiantLoopMoto.com for more tips from riders and instructions for creating Dave’s Oil Bottle Toolkit and Inner Tube Sleeve.

Care & Washing
• Do not overstuff or over-load Saddlebag. Consult your motorcycle’s owner’s manual and do not exceed the total gear and rider weight limitations for your bike. Remember: the Giant Loop Saddlebag is all about going ultra-light. Pack only what you need, nothing more or less (see Packing Tips).
• Avoid exposure to fuel, solvents, lubricants and excessive UV from direct sunlight.
• Hand wash Saddlebag with mild soap (like Simple Green), rinse with clean water and air dry (preferably not in direct sunlight).
• To neutralize and remove residue from alkai desert soils, wash Saddlebag with a mild vinegar and water solution (one tablespoon vinegar to one gallon of water). Rinse thoroughly with fresh water and air dry.

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Bulk Instructions Simple

To get the most life and performance from RaceTEX bulk muffler packing, a mu ffler should be repacked with the core in it. Ideally, you would like to fill the front of the muffler first (the end closest to the engine) and work towards the exit. This isn’t always possible as with mufflers that have cores welded to the rear end-cap (Honda CRF150R, White Brothers E-Series for example).

Step 1 – Muffler Disassembly
Before removing any fasteners, it is a good idea to make some marks on the shell and end-caps that will remind you how to orient the end-caps during reassembly.
If one of the muffler’s end-caps has threaded fasteners, remove them and pull out the end-cap that they hold in place. If the core is still in the muffler go to Step 2. If the core is attached to the end-cap that you just removed, remove the other end-cap and re-install the core and the attached end-cap.
(Tip: If sealant is visible where the muffler body meets the end-cap, cut through it with a razor knife to break its bond.)
STEP 2 – Packing Installation
Push small amounts of the into the muffler cavity spirally around the core. Use a blunt tool like a ruler or dowel to tamp the packing into place.

Important! Make sure that the front of the muffler (closest to the engine) is completely filled with no voids before continuing to fill the rest of the muffler.

Continue to feed and tamp one handful of packing at a time into the muffler, working your way around the core. As a rule of thumb, the density of this packing for a two stroke should feel similar to the density of a new foam air filter. For four-strokes, the density should feel more like seat foam. The density of the packing must be uniform throughout the muffler for maximum durability and noise reduction. Specific density information can be found on the reverse side of this sheet.

DENSITY RECOMMENDATIONS
For maximum durability and noise reduction, the recommended densities are:
Two Stroke Engines – use ą160 grams of packing per packable liter
Four Stroke Engines – use ą210 grams of packing per packable liter

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Portable Self Priming Pumps Installation and Operating Instructions

PUMP LOCATION: For most efficient operation, site the pump as close to the water as practical. It is essential for the correct function of the engine that it be located on a horizontal surface. If allowed to run at an inclination, the oil lubrication system of the engine may not operate correctly. Subsequent engine failure would not be covered by the manufacturer’s guarantee. The pump should be positioned in a well drained location to avoid possible property damage by leaking hose fittings or pump seals, spilled engine fuel etc. If you intend to operate your pump on a hard surface, Davey suggest a suitable resilient mounting to be fitted to your pump and engine.

SUCTION PIPE: A reinforced or non-collapsible hose should be used for the pump suction. The minimum suction pipe size should be 38mm (11/2”) I.D. for up to 6.5hp Firefighter® models, 50mm (2”) I.D. for G5006 and 9hp & 13hp Firefighter® models and 80mm (3”) I.D. for G8016 Firefighter® models. A strainer should always be fitted to the bottom of the suction pipe. The strainer should be kept out of sand, mud etc., to avoid particles being drawn into the pump and causing damage by abrasion. Always locate the pump so that the rise of suction pipe from water to pump is even with no humps or hollows where air may be trapped. All pipe connections must be air tight for best priming and operation - check that washers in nuts and tails are in good order.

DELIvERY PIPE: Care should be taken on correct selection of pipe pressure rating as single stage Firefighter® units are capable of delivering pressures up to 650kPa (93psi). Two stage Firefighter® Plus units are capable of pressures up to 1135kPa (165psi).

PUMP PRIMING: To prime the pump initially, it is necessary to fill the pump body with water before starting the engine. The priming plug and drain plug both have “bayonet” style fitment, with a safety release mechanism. When correctly installed the plug handles will be as shown in illustration one below. To remove the plug, first twist it counter-clockwise approximately 60 degrees till any pressure is released (see illustration two). At this point the plug will partly disengage. Once any residual pressure has been released the plug can be fully removed by continuing to turn it to the 90 degree position (see illustration three).

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Gizzmo CAM/FUEL Controller Instructions Manual

The CamFC has an AFC (air/fuel controller) onboard so that the fundamental fuelling issues related to the addition of tuning accessories such as extractors, exhausts, adjustable cam gears, filters and mild cams can be resolved. The Cam switching point is adjustable in 1 RPM increments and the switch off point is adjustable as well.

The AFC is adjustable in 500rpm increments and automatically interpolates (averages) between these points. For non-adjustable cam vehicles, the CamFC can be used for its AFC and tachometer features whilst the cam trigger output can be used as an RPM switch for NOS, shiftlight, high boost solenoid etc.

AFC adjustable in 500RPM steps from 0RPM to 9000RPM
Each AFC RPM point adjustable in 1% increments to +/- 40%
Full interpolation between AFC RPM zones
Cam switch-on point is adjustable from 0RPM to 9000RPM
Cam switch-off point is adjustable from 0RPM to 8980RPM
Real-time tachometer displayed in 1RPM increments
DOT Matrix display for clarity under all conditions
Tachometer configurable for all types of vehicles
RPM activated output capable of supplying up to 1.5 amps
RPM output is configurable to switch positive or negative
Anodised Extruded Alloy case
40mhz High Speed RISC Processor

Warning/Caution
Always connect the wiring exactly as described in the instruction manual.
Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before proceeding with installation.
Do not drop or expose this unit to excessive shock.
Installation should only be performed by an experienced automotive electrician.
Keep this unit away from moisture.
Never disassemble, modify, or tamper with this unit.
Never operate this unit while driving.
Securely mount this unit away from any area that may effect driving.
This unit is only designed for 12V DC type vehicles with a negative ground supply

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2010 Insight Body Side Molding Installation Instructions

The information in this installation instruction is intended for use only by skilled technicians who have the proper tools, equipment, and training to correctly and safely add equipment to your vehicle. These procedures should not be attempted by “do-it-yourselfers.

NOTE:
• Be careful not to damage the body paint finish.
• Body side moldings should only be installed if the ambient air temperature is 15°C (60°F) or above.
• To allow the adhesive to cure, do not wash the vehicle for 24 hours. Please advise the customer.
• These installation instructions show the left body side moldings being installed. The same procedure applies to installing the right body side moldings.

1. Using one alcohol swab, clean the area where the left body side molding will attach.
2. Align the front template to the left front door and attach the template to the door using strips of masking tape.
3. Place the left front body side molding against the template to verify the installation position on the left front door. Remove the body side molding.
4. Peel back approximately 1½ to 2 inches of adhesive backing from each adhesive tape, and tape the ends to the front surface of the body side molding. Remove the small end pieces of the adhesive backing.
5. Align the left front body side molding with the front template, and attach it to the left front door. If the vehicle has door edge film installed, align the end with the door edge film.
6. Press on the left front body side molding firmly with the palm of your hand while removing the adhesive backings. Remove about 2 to 4 inches at a time while pressing on the molding with the palm of your hand.

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KE-6800 Keeper-Eeze Instructions

Valve Removal Instructions
1. Place the Assembly Stand on the work surface and set the deck surface of the cylinder head on the protective foam. The Assembly Stand will prevent the head from moving during disassembly
2. Valve Support Selection: Choose the appropriate valve support component. A Shot-Bag or Chamber Plug must be used to hold up the valves while removing the valve locks.
• The Shot-Bags will conform to the combustion chamber. They should not protrude too far from the deck surface when installed. Choose from the different size bags for the correct fit. Multiple bags can be used for large chambers. (See Image 1)
• The Chamber Plugs will snap into the spark plug hole and bump against the valve faces on four-valve heads. Choose the Chamber Plug size that contacts the valves the best and does not protrude too far out of the combustion chamber. (See Image 2)
• Support Installation: Tilt the cylinder head up and place the valve support* into the combustion chamber or spark plug hole. Tilt the head back down on the stand so that the bag or plug is seated on the valve faces. Make sure the head is stable as it sits on the Assembly Stand.
Tech Tip: To reduce assembly time, install valve supports in every chamber of the head.
3. Sleeve Selection: Determine the correct protective guide Sleeve. Pick the Sleeve that fits inside the lifter bore and around the spring/retainer assembly. Some engines require the valve spring clearance relief to be used as a guide. (See Image 3)
Tech Tip: Use the available B-Series Twin Sleeve for extra protection on the Honda B-Series motors. (Order No. KE-6840)
4. Hold the t-handle portion of the Keeper-Eeze tool with the tube down between the fingers. Remove any Loader Modules from the tool by gently pulling on the plunger at the end to overcome the magnetic force. Retract the Adjuster by loosening the knob on the side and pulling it back. (See Image 4)
5. Insert the Remover attachment (Order No. KE-6803) into the end of the Keeper-Eeze tool. Push it in with a twisting action until it is fully seated. (See Image 5)
6. Insert “T” Handle in sleeve installed in step 3 (Image 6) Hold down tool firmly with one hand and swiftly strike T-Handle with opposite hand. This will release keepers.
7. Pull the tool away from the cylinder head. The valve locks and retainer will be held safe by the Remover. Store the components for later assembly. (See Image 7 &

Valve Assembly Instructions
1. Place the Assembly Stand on the work surface and set the deck surface of the cylinder head on the protective foam. The Assembly Stand will prevent the head from moving during assembly
2. Determine the best valve support* for the cylinder head and install according to the previous “Valve Support Selection” section. (See #2 Under Valve Removal Instructions)
3. Determine the correct sleeve for the cylinder head according to the previous “Sleeve Selection” section.(See #3 Under Valve Removal Instructions also see Image 3)
4. Loader Selection: Determine the correct valve Loader module based on the valve stem size. Measure the diameter of the valve stem and choose a Loader that is the same size. (See Image 9) Note: The valve stem should be able to fit inside the Loader when the plunger is depressed.
5. Loader Adjustment: Insert the valve Loader into the Keeper-Eeze tool with the plunger pointing out. (See Image 10)
• Place the valve locks on the plunger at the end of the valve Loader. The locks should approximate the way they are installed on the valve. Tech Tip: For best assembly results, align the parting line of the two locks with the direction of the t-handle portion of the tool. (See Image 11)
• Loosen the adjuster knob on the side of the Keeper-eeze tool. With the other hand, place the valve spring retainer against the end of the Keeper-eeze tool and hold it in place. Slide the adjuster up until the valve locks touch the inside of the retainer bore. Tighten the adjuster knob. The tool is now adjusted for the cylinder head. Tech Tip: Slightly preload, follow the normal adjustment process, but move the adjuster a slight distance further out of the tool.

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BBR Rear Disk Brake Kit Instructions

Thank you for the purchase of this rear disc brake kit for the CRF/XR50! Everything is included in this kit to add a rear disc brake to your BBR Perimeter Aluminum Frame kit based motorcycle. If you are adapting this kit to the OEM Honda frame or another aftermarket frame kit, you will need our adapter kit PN 550-HXR-5050. Because installation of this kit is beyond the control of BBR Motorsports, Inc, we cannot accept responsibilty for misuse or improper installation. This kit is intended only for use on off-road motorcycles. These instructions are intended only as a supliment to the proper Honda service manual. If the installation of this product is beyond your technical abilities please refer to qualified service personel.

1. Support bike on stand with rear tire off of ground. Remove seat and body work. Remove rear wheel and brake pedal.
2. Remove shipping bracket from master cylinder.
3. Remove shipping wedge from the caliper.
4. Install master cylinder on frame using supplied 6mm bolts.
5. Install master cylinder reservoir on upper subframe bolt using the supplied bracket and longer bolt.
6. Slide caliper (on mount) onto back of swingarm
7. Stick brake hose mounts onto swingarm. Be sure to clean the swingarm to insure that they stick properly.
8. Install rotor and sprocket on the rear hub. BBR recommends using a thread lock adhesive on all these bolts
9. Install rear wheel. Use care to insure that the rotor slides between the brake pads and the wheel spacers stay in place.
10. Install brake pedal tip in desired location. BBR recommends using a thread lock here also.
11. Unsnap the clevis pin from the bottom of the brake reservoir.
12. Install the brake pedal spring on the top bolt mount.
13. Install the brake pedal and hook the bottom end of the brake pedal spring on the pedal.
14. Adjust the clevis to line up with the brake pedal.

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Body Badge Installation

The badges are made from layers of foil and other materials, all covered with a pliable urethane clear “lens.” They are thin, not more than 1/16 inch thick, so they are very slick and appear to have been molded right into the painted surface of the body work. In comparison, the raised stock badges and aftermarket versions look rather crude. Since the badge colors match the various car colors perfectly, the integrated appearance of the badges is all the more striking. Depending on the color of your car and the color of the badge you chose, the end result could be very subtle and sophisticated or more striking. To avoid mistakes, please read these directions fully before beginning.

Required items:
• Xenit Adhesive remover from Stoner, or 3M Adhesive Remover available from your local auto store
• Waxed dental floss
• General purpose masking tape
• Soft cotton detailing towel
• Isopropyl Alcohol and cotton balls or alcohol swabs
• Optional: aftermarket finishing/detailing spray, we use Zaino’s Z-6.

Quick Installation Instructions
The adhesive of the badges cures better when the temperature is 70º or higher. It has been reports that installation can/has been done at lower temperatures with out any problems.
1. Clean the badge and sounding areas to remove all dirt, dust, oils, etc.
2. Remove the stock badges.
3. Clean the badge location by wiping with clean towel and isopropyl alcohol.
4. Remove the backing from the S Badge and apply the adhesive side to the clean, dry surface. Use a rolling manner (from bottom to top) to prevent air bubbles. Using caution contaminate the adhesive on the back of the emblem.
5. The assembly should remain about 70 degrees F for 72 to 96 hours before exposure to the outside.

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Blade Installation Manual

The BLADE installs easily onto round 1 7/8” to 2” diameter exhaust pipes. Important Notice: In order to install the BLADE, your car must:
• have an exposed, straight tailpipe measuring 1 7/8” - 2.0” in diameter. Example: 2004 Honda Civic
• or, dual exhaust pipes where there are 2 mufflers, each with a single exhaust pipe measuring 1 7/8” - 2.0” in diameter. Example: 2007 Lincoln Town car (in which case 2 BLADES are required).
If your car does not have either of these exhaust configurations, then your exhaust pipe will need modification. This modification is very easy to obtain at any exhaust shop i.e. Meineke, Midas, etc. Simply ask the technician to modify your tailpipe to meet this specification.

WARNING: Installing a BLADE on a tailpipe smaller than a recommended size could cause the BLADE to: (a) rattle off at the end of the tailpipe, and/or (b) not work properly.

Illustrations 1, 2, and 3 illustrate exhaust flows passing through the BLADE. The direction of the exhaust flow inside the BLADE is determined by the shape of the end of your exhaust pipe. The shapes of the exhaust pipes in Illustrations 1 and 2 are OK because they direct exhaust flows through the Exit of the BLADE. The shape of the exhaust pipe in Illustration 3 is NOT OK because it directs the exhaust flow directly into the Fabric Cartridge.

Note: Once the BLADE is properly installed on your vehicle, upon inspection you will notice that some of the exhaust flow exits the BLADE through the fabric. This is normal. The point to pay attention to is that the exhaust flow is not being aimed at , and focused directly into the fabric, as this will damage the Fabric Cartridge.

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Catch-All & Xtreme Catch-All Snap Fastener System

To install the retention system provided with your Catch-All’s, first snap the anchor screws into the bottom side of the mat. Snap an anchor screw into each factory installed retention ring. Place the Catch-Alls in your vehicle and position for best fit (see illustrations “A”, “B”, and “C”). Hold the Catch-All firmly in place against the floor and screw the anchor screw all the way into the floor carpet.

Note: To remove the anchor screws from the factory carpet, simply remove the Catch-Alls and unscrew them. To unscrew the anchor screws, you must clamp onto the snap stud with pliers or small vice grips and turn while lifting gently. Do not attempt to pull or tear them out, as this will cause damage. To remove any mark left by the anchor screws brush over the area with a vacuum brush attachment.
To remove for cleaning, lift the Catch-All and unsnap the anchor screws one at a time from each retention ring. To re-install, simply snap back into place! Apply the snap covers over all of the snap fasteners.

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High Density Discharger Installation Instructions

Working Theory. The Chemical gases, most of which are xenon and iodides, are filled the quartz tube of the light. Through the ballast, then the voltage of 12V DC will be increased to 23KV immediately: the electrons of the xenon in the tube will be dissociated because of the voltage swing and thus an electrical arc happens between the two poles. Xenon light is power saving, safe and has long life, high luminance. In addition of the use of the UV-cut quartz tube, the light is crystal forever.

Safety instruction.
Its unique safety design: Driving safely can be enhanced greatly for the light is equipped with short-circuit protection device, contra-pres- sure protection design. Therefore, the light has been the favour of the automobile modification fans from Europe, U.S.A., Japan, South Korea and Southeast Asia etc.

Installation instruction.
1. Turn off the switch, open the lid of the engine after the engin gets cool, install the same type of HID bulbs in the discharg light group to take the place of the original halogen bubls and then plug all wire cables attached into the socket and ballast related. It is prohibited to touch the surface of HID bulb by hand. If it is dirty, it should be cleaned with the rag.
2. Changing the fuse in the electric circuit of the car into the fuse special for HID.
3. Beforeinstallation, check if the bulb can touch the inner cover of the light or the opening is too small. If so, install after proper adjustment.
4. Put the bulb into the light cover carefully with no damaging force, and then stabilize it and put the waterproof ring to the original.

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