Auto Manual Resource: Volkswagen

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TF-80/81SC, TF-60SN Lockup Clutch Control Valve Kit Instructions Datasheet

Adapter plate F-15741-TL29PL is required to hold VW 09G (TF-60SN) and Volvo/Opal (TF-80SC) valve body sections while reaming. Adapter plate is not required for Ford/Mazda (TF-81SC).
Note: Mounting instructions are included with the Adapter plate F-15741-TL29PL. Disassembly Steps
Remove the retainer, plunger sleeve with plunger valve, spring and lock-up valve. Keep the retainer for re-use and discard all other OE pieces.

Important Notes:
1. Clean the bore thoroughly in a solvent tank.
2. Generously lubricate the bore and reamer with cutting fluid (i.e. Mobilmet S-122, Lubegard Bio-Tap, Tap Magic™, etc). For best results, provide a continuous flow of water-soluble cutting fluid (i.e. Mobilmet S-122) during the reaming process.
3. The reamers should be turned using a low rpm, high torque air drill regulated to a maximum of 200 rpm.
4. Examine the bore after cleaning for surface finish, debris, and burrs. Flashing and burrs on the exit side of lands and bores must be carefully removed. A small piece of Scotchbrite™ material attached to a wire and powered with a drill motor is ideal for the task.

Get pdf TF-80/81SC, TF-60SN Lockup Clutch Control Valve Kit Instructions Datasheet

1996-1999 VW/ Audi 1.8L AEB Engines Revised Camshaft Sprocket Bolt Torque

Previously published service information regarding camshaft sprocket bolt torque specifications for the 1.8L Volkswagen/ Audi 1.8L AEB engines may have incorrectly listed the torque value at 74 ft.lbs.

The correct torque value for the camshaft sprocket bolt is 48 ft.lbs. (65 Nm).These cylinder heads are beginning to be seen in machine shops because many miles have accumulated since they were new. If the incorrect torque value is used,the result may be engine failure.Even if the bolt does not break after over-torquing, it is possible that all engine valves (20) will bend/break if the head bolts fail while engine is running (Figure 1, left).

Water Pump Coolant Leaks On 1990-2006
Suzuki Engines
The AERA Technical Committee says that water pump coolant leaks on all 1990-2006 Suzuki engines may be a normal part of the break-in cycle. Numerous water pumps have been returned to Suzuki under warranty due to leaks, however after testing these pumps they’ve been determined satisfactory for service.

Suzuki has determined that signs of coolant leakage at water pump weep holes are normal during break in. For a period of time some coolant will pass through the seal and leave green and white deposits around and below the weep hole (see Figure 2, above). This is not detrimental to the function of the water pump. There is however a limit to what is considered normal leakage, according to the company.

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Audi TT & VW Mk 4 Front Installation Manual

These instructions are for the Audi TTand Volkswagen Mark IVchassis vehicles. The photos shown are of an Audi TT. The Volkswagen applications use the same caliper brackets, rotors and hats, and the caliper bodies are identical, so the installations are very similar on all vehicles. The one main difference is the brake lines, which may vary slightly from the photos shown. Also, brake pad wear sensors and ABS line routing may vary. Though the actual fitment may look slightly different, the order in which the kit is installed is the same for all vehicles.

This Kit Incudes the Following:
1 pair of ST-40 4-Piston Calipers
1 set of high performance brake pads (Not suitable for track use)
1 pair of 328mm X 28mm AeroRotors
1 pair of caliper adapter brackets, with stainless steel mounting studs and hardware pre-installed.
1 pair of stainless steel covered Teflon brake lines.
- 1 pair of “C” clips for brake line brackets (used for VW kits only)
- 1 pair of Banjo Bolts
- 2 pair of copper washers
- 1 pair of rubber end caps
- 2 High temperature Ty-Wraps

Caliper, Hat and Bracket Finish Disclaimer
Many wheel-cleaning solutions contain strong acids that may damage the finish on any caliper and or aluminum anodized finish, especially the plating on the hardware. Check for adverse effects by trying a small amount of the cleaner in question on an inconspicuous area. Avoid over spraying, and rinse the cleaning solution off as quickly as possible. STOPTECH will not be held liable for damage to caliper, hat or bracket finish due to corrosive chemical exposure.

A level, stable and clean surface suitable for supporting the car on jack-stands should be used for the installation.

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Blink Fault Code Diagnostic Reference for Volkswagen & Audi

Volkswagen and Audi models, beginning with production year 1988 thru 1995, utilize a system of blink codes for injection, ignition and emissions fault diagnosis. These faults can be easily read with a simple set of tools and this document. The tools needed consist of a simple LED test light (this is not needed if the vehicle is equipped with a CHECK ENGINE light) and a small jumper wire. (Jumper wires are normally sold in pairs. One can be used to construct the test light below if needed.)

The test light (if needed) can be constructed with an LED, a 330 ohm 1/4 watt resistor and a jumper wire with alligator clips at each end.
1) Solder the resistor to the ground (-) side of the LED.
2) Cut the jumper wire into 2 pieces (make one slightly longer than the other).
3) Solder the shorter of the 2 wires to the resistor and the other to the Positive side of the LED.
4) Insulate between the LED leads and at the solder joints with some electrical tape or shrink wrap tubing.
**CAUTION**If the car is equipped with an Anti-Theft radio do not do any tests on the electrical system without knowing the radio codes.

TESTING PROCEDURE
1988-90 / 4 cylinder / 50 state models - These models have a test connection near the fire wall or directly behind the air sensor plate.
1988 / 5 cylinder / California models - Records permanent faults.
1988 / 5 cylinder / 49 state models - Does not record permanent faults.
The test light should be connected to the POSITIVE (+) side of the battery and this test plug. The light should now be on, if not reverse the wires. California models will flash the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT for this test.

Turn the ignition to ON but do not start the engine.
Insert a spare fuse or insert the jumper wire into the fuel pump relay for at least 4 seconds, then remove. The beginning of the fault code sequence is a single flash followed by a 2.5 second pause. The next flash series is the first fault code.

Fault codes consist of 4 digits
-1st digit evenly spaced flashes, 2.5sec OFF
-2nd digit evenly spaced flashes, 2.5sec OFF
-3rd digit evenly spaced flashes, 2.5sec OFF
-4th digit evenly spaced flashes, 2.5sec OFF
Each 4 digit code will keep repeating until the fuse is inserted in the fuel pump relay again. When you remove the fuse the second time the next fault code will flash, this will continue until you insert the fuse again.
The end-of-fault display is signaled by a 2.5 second ON light then 2.5 seconds OFF. This is known as code 0000 and will continue until the ignition is turned off.

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Audi Volkswagen Loading Manual

This publication contains instructions for the proper method of loading and securing Volkswagen and Audi vehicles. Methods other than described and illustrated are not acceptable.

1. To ensure receipt of the proper vehicle, all Volkswagen/Audi vehicle identification numbers (V.I.N.) are located on the dashboard visible through the driver’s side lower windshield. 17 digit V.I.N. number – example – 3VWRT71K17M838290
2. Personnel must wear clean clothing free of objects that could cause damage to the interior or exterior of the vehicle. Gloves are not to be worn inside the vehicle. Jewelry, if worn, and belt buckles, must be covered by protective devices. Smoking inside vehicles is strictly prohibited.
3. Engines should not idle for extended periods prior to and during the loading and unloading process, especially full body cover units, and must be shut off while in transit.
4. Prior to loading, each vehicle should be inspected to ensure that optional and loose shipped items such as radio, CD player, antenna, spare tires, wheel covers, navigation disc, remote keys, etc., are included with the vehicle.
5. Ramp angles and breakover points must meet requirements of product to prevent any front spoiler or undercarriage damage. During loading and unloading operations, vehicles must not be subjected to undercarriage interference from ramps, skids, or tie-down assemblies.
6. Tie-down straps, chains, and hooks must be secured to prevent any contact with the roof of vehicles when loading bottom position units. Chains must be removed from deck runways to prevent any tire damage or undercarriage interference.
7. Automatic transmission vehicles must be set in park, manual transmission vehicles in first gear after vehicles are positioned. Parking brakes must be firmly set before exiting the vehicle.
8. Once vehicles are in final loading position, keys must be removed from ignition, and left on the tether or placed in the left front door pocket. Locking of all vehicles is required if the transport remains unattended.
9. Drivers must never enter or exit a vehicle through the windows or tailgates. In addition, ensure seat and floor protection is in place before entering vehicles.

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10. At all times, vehicles must have hoods, deck lids/tailgates, doors, and windows closed. Doors (with the exception of the driver’s door) and deck lids/tailgates must be locked during transport.
11. Vehicles must never be started by pushing or pulling.
12. Driver is responsible for all damages between truckload and dealer delivery

VW TDI Engines Caterpillar 2 Micron Fuel Filter Kit Installation Instruction

1. Install the large o-ring on the threaded nipple on the bottom of the Filter Adapter.
2. Using a little diesel fuel, lubricate the filter gasket and thread the fuel filter onto the filter adapter by hand. Once the filter is on the adapter hand tight tighten the filter one additional complete turn, using a pair of strap wrenches. It is helpful to put a mark on the filter to know when you have complete one full turn.
3. Assemble the fuel inlet and outlet banjo fittings. Each banjo fitting should have a washer on each side of the fitting (one on the adapter side, and one on the bolt side). Loosely thread them into the filter adapter. The filter inlet is the threaded hole on the outside (red arrow), and the filter outlet is in the center (green arrow).
4. Remove the OEM filter from the car. Start by removing the clamp on the side of the filter using a Phillips screw driver (the screw for the clamp is under the fuel lines on the right side of the picture (red arrow)).
5. Lift the fuel filter straight up, removing it from the filter holder (you may need to release some of the fuel line hold down clamps to loosen the hose enough to work).
6. Remove the “Mickey Mouse” clip which holds the thermostatic tee (green arrow).
7. Place a container under the old fuel filter to avoid spilling old fuel (an old 2-liter bottle works well).
8. Clamp the fuel inlet and outlet hoses.
9. Remove the thermostatic tee by pulling it straight up. Replace the two o-rings on the tee with the new o-rings included in the kit (red arrow).

Get pdf VW TDI Engines Caterpillar 2 Micron Fuel Filter Kit Installation Instruction

VW Embedment Strain Gauge

VW Embedment Strain Gauges are used to measure strain in reinforced concrete and mass concrete.
Operation
The body of the strain gauge is a steel tube with flanges at either end. Inside the body, a steel wire held in tension between the two flanges. Strain in the concrete causes the flanges to move relative to one another, increasing or decreasing the tension in the wire.
The tension in the wire is measured by plucking the wire with
electromagnetic coils and measuring the frequency of the resulting vibration. Strain in the wire is calculated by squaring the frequency reading and multiplying a gauge factor and a batch calibration factor.

Test each sensor before installing it. Use a readout and an ohm meter to conduct these tests.
• The VW sensor reading should be about 895 Hz.
• The RTD reading should be close to the ambient temperature.
• Resistance between the orange/white and orange leads should be about 300 ohms.
• Resistance between blue/white and blue leads should be about 2k ohms.

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VW/Audi DTC Reader User’s Manual

This VW / AUDI DTC Reader is specially designed for Audi, Volkswagen, Seat and Skoda vehicles from year 1990 onwards except for vehicles with CAN bus systems and the ones listed below.

It reads and erases fault codes on Engine, ABS, AIRBAG (SRS) and Automatic Transmission (A/T) systems through the 16 pins OBD II type Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) which is usually located beneath the steering column under the dashboard. For older car models using 2X2 plug DLC, an adaptor 2X2 plug cable is required. This cable is supplied together with this DTC reader.

Over 6,700 Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) definitions were found in its database. It will be displayed on the LCD screen when the particular fault code is entered. This feature is very convenient as it eliminate the hassle of cross checking with the fault codes list from the instruction manual. Once you have the diagnostic information from the vehicle computer, this is the first step in finding and fixing the problem.

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VW Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

From model year 1996, vehicles manufactured for the North American market are equipped with a Government required diagnostic system known as On-Board Diagnostics II (OBD II). This system monitors operation and function of all engine management system activity and automatic transmission operation to insure compliance with specified emission levels.

Vehicle emission levels are constantly monitored by the OBD II system and malfunctions are recognized and recorded. A Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) in the instrument cluster alerts the driver to the fault and the need to have the system checked for fault codes. These codes follow a standard format and are known as Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).

DTCs are assigned two codes. The first code is a numerical code assigned by the factory. The second code is referred to as a P-code and follows a structure required by law and defined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). This standard uses a letter to designate the system and four numbers to further identify and detail the malfunction as listed below.

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VW Stress Station Manual

The basic total pressure cell (TPC) is comprised of two stainless steel plates which are laser-welded together around the periphery, leaving a thin space between the plates which is filled with a special de-aired oil (see Fig. 1). For environmental reasons INTERFELS is avoiding the use of mercury as a TPC fluid. This approach is made possible by particular design features of the INTERFELS TPC such as:
- The steel plates are always rounded thus minimizing errors from stiff boundary sections of the TPC to the stress readings.
- The two steel plates which make up the TPC are of unequal thickness. There is a thicker base plate which gives the TPC a solid shape and which also provides the connections for the pressure tube and the pinch tubes; and there is a significantly thinner cover plate which is bent at its periphery to minimize the stiffness of the TPC in its outer section. This thinner side is the most sensitive side of the TPC.
- The height to width ratio of the INTERFELS TPC is very small, actually smaller than any other commercially available TPC. This gives superior TPC performance even in stiff media such as concrete.

The oil-filled space of the TPC is connected via a pressure tube to a membrane switch pressure sensor. Stresses applied nor- mal to the plates of the TPC which shall be monitored are balanced by a corresponding built-up of internal fluid pressure which is then measured by the membrane switch using a manual compensation pump.

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VW Insta-Heat Installation Guide and Owner’s Manual

The Air-cooled VW heating system
In its stock form the heating system on most air cooled VW’s utilizes the engine cooling fan, two heat exchangers and a series of vents in the passenger compartment. The cooling fan, mounted on the end of the generator/ alternator shaft, provides cooling air for the engine and air into the passenger compartment for heat. The heat is provided by two heat exchangers, sometimes called heater boxes. Each heater box is a finned exhaust header that transfers heat from exhaust gasses to air on its way into the passenger compartment. In the (Type 1 beetle) passenger compartment there are two vents located under both sides of rear seat, two more near the driver and passenger’s feet, and a total of five defrost vents spread across the front windshield. As designed this system is uncomfortable in cold weather.

Advantages
Contrary to popular belief the heating system on air cooled VW’s is well thought out and produces plenty of heat, the problem is delivering that heat and air flow into the passenger compartment. Using exhaust gasses as a heat source means the heater boxes get hot almost immediately after engine startup. This also means there is more than enough available heat to use for warming the vehicle interior.

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VW/AUDI V-checker User Manual

V-CHECKER is a powerful, affordable handy scanner designed for all VW, AUDI, SKODA, and SEAT vehicles. It is small in size, robust in design, competitive in price and easy to use. With only 10% of the cost of a large special tool, it can nearly do the same work as that of a VAG1551/1552. This is a stand alone unit; it does not need a laptop computer to operate.

Available Functions
Control Unit Information
Read Fault Codes
Measuring Blocks
Clear Fault Codes
Basic Setting
Adaptation
Independent Channel Value
Output Tests
Coding Control Unit
Login
Service Oil Reset
Code Modes
Dealership Code Set

Supported Systems
V-CHECKER can support the following systems: [Engine],[Transmission],[Airbag],etc. there are 78 systems available.

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VW Type A-4 Timing Belt Replacement Procedure

Finally the procedure we have all been waiting for: the “A4 Timing Belt Procedure“, including the automatic and manual transmission differences. Some people have argued till they are blue in the face that “mark and pray” was the easiest way to change one of these belt, and it has been proven that this belt can be changed in under 2 hours using the full factory method as demonstrated here in this thread. The procedure utilizes all the factory tools and processes. The reason for going to the extreme of utilizing all the tools is the elimination of all possibilities of making a $2500.00+ mistake and destroying the head. You do not need many tools to complete this job. What you do need is a thorough understanding of the procedure and what you are about to accomplish.

When changing a timing belt, you are doing more than just replacing an old belt.What you are doing, whether performing a 40K on the auto or 60K on a manual, is inspecting the entire engine area that has been covered up since the engine was new or since the last belt change. The second most important thing this procedure accomplishes is it totally resets ALL timing settings on the engine and restores them back to factory new settings.

While on the topic of timing, we need to understand that there are three types of timing involved here:
1.The first and most overlooked type of timing is the cam and crank timing.This keeps the cam spinning in perfect time allowing the engine to produce great low-end power as well as allowing the engine to rev to it’s full redline of 5100 rpm.
2.The second type of timing is “basic” injection timing. I concocted the word “basic” timing because it is used to initially set and assure that the engine will start.This is accomplished by inserting the injection pump lock pin: positioning the pump shaft in relation to cam and crank timing in such a way that injection will occur within the ignition window.
3. Once the cam & crank timing have been set and the Injection pump is positioned, you will need to adjust the injection timing utilizing the Vag-Com ® . (www.ross-tech.com) If you do not have this, then get it before attempting to perform this procedure.

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Applicable Vehicles for Airbag Resetting

When an explosion occurs in an airbag or the SRS light is turned on, normally both airbag and the controller should be replaced. But this tool can restore the software under the conditions that there is no damage to the controller’s hardware and replace the airbag only, and the controller can be used again.

Features:
1. Handhold design, big screen display.
2. Updating through Internet, quick and convenient.
3. VW airbags can be reset by K-line or OBD-II line.
4. Can read/write and save the memory of an airbag not supported at present.

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2001 VW Golf TDI Gauge Installation

This page describes my aftermarket gauge install on my 2001 VW Golf TDI. It should directly apply to any Mk4 (99.5+) Golf or Jetta TDI and it should apply to the 98+ New Beetle TDIs. For other engines, wiring should be similar, but the installation of senders into the engine will be different. The intention of this page is to share information about my install and to help others who are considering an install. I tried to photograph everything important. Shoot me an email if you can think of a photo that you’d like to see that I haven’t included. In fact, any comments are welcome.

Anything you do to your own car is AT YOUR OWN RISK! I deny any responsibility or liability for anything that you may do to your car. I’m not a professional mechanic, I just like tinkering with my car. Don’t do any of this if you aren’t comfortable with modifying your engine and be prepared to deal with the consequences if you screw something up. On that happy note, on with the show!
If you intend to use this document as a guide, READ THE WHOLE THING FIRST. Required tools and procedures are sprinkled throughout, so make sure that you have all required tools beforehand, AND that you are comfortable with every required procedure.
Any time I mention a special tool or part that I used, I’ve included it in bold font. I assume that you have access to normal tools: screwdrivers, ratchet set, wrenches, etc. And, of course, a set of Torx drivers, which you should already have if you’ve done more than the most basic maintenance on your VW. The T-20 driver is essential for this work.
I installed 4 VDO Vision gauges: electrical voltmeter (VDO part # 332-103), 80 PSI oil pressure (350-104), and 300*F oil temperature (310-106), and mechanical 30 PSI boost (150-104). The voltmeter and two oil gauges are installed in the cubbyhole area between the radio and the cupholder, and the boost gauge is in a pod mounted on the dash near the A-pillar. If you want to use an A-pillar mount, the wiring part should be pretty similar.
There’s two parts of this job: exterior and interior. The exterior consists of installing senders into the engine and routing wires and tubing into the engine compartment. The interior consists of routing the wires from the engine compartment to where they need to go, making electrical connections, and installing the physical gauges themselves. The exterior work in the engine bay should be done first.

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VW GOLF IV/JETTA Supplemental Installation Information

Overview of process
1. Mount Heating Unit
2. Run wiring harness into vehicle
3. Connect coolant hoses
4. Mount fuel pump and run fuel lines
5. Route wires inside vehicle and make final connections
6. Tap fuel via sending unit

Mount Heating Unit
• Air Box Removal
o Disconnect MAF
o Disconnect air intake tube to MAF
o Remove screws to air box
o Remove snorkel
• Battery Removal
o Remove covers behind left headlamp
o Remove bolt and metal battery clamp
o Remove positive and negative battery terminals
o Remove fuse holder / wiring chase behind battery
o Remove SHROUD around left headlamp
• Access to Plenum and water-tight box (for MY 2002 skip this step)
o Remove both wiper arms
o Remove plastic cover/cowling
o Remove windshield wiper motor
o Purchase extra wiring grommet

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Volkswagen Manual Gearbox 02T Design and Function

With the new 02T 5/6-speed manual gearbox of the MQ200 series, Volkswagen has succeeded in developing an ultra-light twin-shaft gearbox. The housing is manufactured from magnesium. The gearbox can transmit up to 200 Nm of torque and is used throughout the Group in combination with various engines ranging from the A00 class to the A class. The final drive ratios and the ratios of the individual gears can be matched to the power outputs of the various engines.

The type diversity within the gear and final drive ratios allows an optimum compromise to be found between sporty and economical gearbox design for all automotive applications. The gearbox is operated by means of selector cables. The clutch control is hydraulic.
The development goals for the new gearbox were as follows:
– Easy and exact gear-changes
– Optimal efficiency
– Low weight
– Modular technology
– Standard cable-operated gearbox

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How To Unsolder The ECU Chip In A 95 Volkswagen GTI VR6 pdf

Equipment/supplies needed:
Soldering iron: I have a Weller soldering unit whose power is variable from 0-40W. I used around 20-30W during the de-soldering process, and 40W when soldering in the socket 1/16″ or 1/8″ soldering braid: soldering braid is a flat braid of fine copper wires. It is used to wick away molten solder. To use it, put it on the solder to be removed, press the tip of the soldering iron onto the braid and hold until the solder melts and is wicked into the braid.
OR
A “desoldering tool”: supposedly you can buy this at Radio Shack. I could not find one locally so I didn’t use it. It’s supposedly a soldering iron w/ a built-in suction device which allows you to melt the solder & suck it away all in one operation. If you can find this, I think it will make unsoldering the chip MUCH easier.

OR
A “solder sucker”: a vacuum bulb thingy that will suck the solder away as you are melting it. Rosin core solder: get as fine a solder as you can. I used a very fine solder, which I think made it easier to control the amount of solder being put down. A 28 pin socket. When buying the socket, bring your chip & test to make sure it fits. Buy as high quality a socket as you can find.

Procedure:
First remove the ECM. Follow these instructions.
Use the solder braid and soldering iron to melt & wick away solder from the OEM chip’s pins. Since the board is fairly thick, you will need to work on both sides of the board to get all the solder out. A clean hole should resemble a hole, and have no solder in it. Alternate between pins at either end of the chip, and stop if the chip gets so hot that you can’t hold a finger on it indefinitely. This process took me 2+ hours.

BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE CHIP: make a mark on the board at the end of the chip that has the semi-circular “notch”; that will remind you which way to put the the socket in (the socket has the same notch as the chip). Don’t be like me and put the socket in with the notch at the wrong end! Once all the holes are clean, insert a flat blade screwdriver under the chip, and lever the chip out. First twist the handle, using the width of the screwdriver blade as the lever. When the chip is loosened, rock the screwdriver back and forth lengthwise to lever the chip out.

Use the solder braid to thoroughly clean the board around the holes and the holes themselves. Insert the socket, match up its notch with the mark on the board. Working on the underside of the board, heat up each pin on the socket for 6-7 seconds then apply the solder. The solder should melt immediately and be sucked down into the pin’s hole.

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VW 1998 Jetta GLX or VR6 GTI PCV valve Modification

Materials:
(1) Plastic Epoxy (fast setting type) I used Loctite Plastic Epoxy (sets in 7 minutes)
(2) 1 foot of ¾ inch (ID) radiator/heater hose. You only need about 3” but this is the minimum you could buy at the Autozone.
(3) Heater connectors (see below) I got mine from the Autozone, but you could use a similar item I guess. These fit perfectly in the existing hole on the valve which is handy… just as an fyi. (Help part number: 47065)
(4) Minimum Two hose clamps sized for the heater hose. You can get more if you want to clamp everything down, like I did.
(5) Some carburator cleaner.

Remove the entire intake pipe. Not exactly required, but it will be a good time to clean it out and get some of the “gunked” on oil residue off. On mine it was all over the place. Removing the intake pipe is a little different on some of the older VR6 models, but on the 98 this will involve loosening the two hose clamps on the intake hose (MAF and TB), the PCV vacuum line and the torn PCV hose/boot (else you probably would not be reading this…) connected to the valve cover. (Sorry no pics)..

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VW MKIV Golf Jetta Mass Air Flow Cleaning DIY pdf

This is a guide to cleaning the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, infamously known to VW owners as a problem part. This problem seems to have become more widespread with the release of the Mk. IV platform, which is apparently due to a bad batch of sensors from the Bosch factory. Although most of the faulty MAFs have been weeded out after having failed on their owners, the more hardy MAFs often survive until just after the car’s warranty expires. In most cases the owner is left holding a bill for several hundred dollars for a new MAF and labor costs.

The reason this guide was created is to help those owners who are having trouble with their MAFs. Symptoms include poor gas mileage, reduced power, poor engine performance, and often result in the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp, also known as the “check engine light”)being triggered. This guide was designed specifically for people who either have had no positive results after multiple dealer visits regarding MAF related service, or are out of their warranty period.

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