Auto Manual Resource: 03/26/10

1999-2004 Honda Odyssey Bracketron Phone Mount Installation Intructions

Remove the bezel that surrounds the climate control and extends behind the transmission shifter. To do this, grasp the bezel behind the shifter and release the first clip. In the upper-right corner of the bezel, use the Dash Trim tool to work loose the remaining ten (10) clips that hold the bezel in place. Note: On vehicles without the navigation system and/or with the DVD, the climate controls will come off with the bezel. Note: On vehicles that have the navigation system, disconnect the emergency light switch connector, and interior lighting switch. Apply the emergency brake and turn the ignition to the on position. Place the transmission shifter into the neutral position. Pull the shifter lever toward you to allow clearance for the bezel to be removed. Place the bezel aside when removed.

Note: Vehicles without the navigation system and or DVD: Remove the four (4) screws that hold the radio/DVD in place. Set the screws aside.
Note: Vehicles with the navigation system: remove the six (6) screws that hold the radio/nav unit in place. Carefully pull the unit out far enough gain access to the right side of the unit. You can rest the unit in the cavity opening. Locate a metal bracket on the right side of the radio. Remove the screw closest to the front of unit. Loosen the back screw enough to slide the Bezel Mount under it. reinstall the factory front screw and tighten down the Bezel Mount. Note: With vehicles that have the DVD, the Custom Bezel Mount is secured with the two lower screws on the right side of the DVD player.

Reinstall the unit back into the cavity securing it with the factory screws. Reconnect all wiring to the bezel. When reinstalling the bezel, angle the bezel over the Custom Bezel Mount, then slide the bezel behind the shifter aligning the bezel to secure all the the bezel clips.

Install any Bracketron phone holder or AMPS compatible device to your Custom Bezel Mount. Your installation is complete.

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Kawasaki Teryx 750 Clutch Kit Instructions

Installation of performance parts requires good mechanical ability and a complete understanding of the entire machine. The instructions we provide are guidelines only and will not thoroughly explain how to set up a racing vehicle. Claims of performance gains, durability, etc. are based on the experience of TEAM Industries and others and do not constitute a guarantee of similar performance in every application. We believe that the contents and specifications within this set of instructions are correct. We assume no liability for any errors in model applications. We reserve the right to change specifications, product descriptions, product quality and application at any time without notice.

Make sure your current clutches are free of fatigue, cracks, wear, etc. TEAM clutch components are produced with high quality materials and a controlled procedure. Never alter TEAM Industries clutch components.

1. Remove both seats from the vehicle. Next, remove the passenger side lower body panel. There is a mixture of Philips head screws and also plastic push pin fasteners that have to be removed.
2. With the side panel off, the next item to remove is the plastic housing over the engine. These are all “push in” style plastic clips that hold it in place. Once all the pins are out, you can slide the housing off and set it aside.
3. Now the lower long plastic panel under the seat has to be removed (again mainly plastic push clips to remove). Once they are all out, carefully remove and set aside.
4. Next, remove the fuel tank. Remove the two lines on the top of the tank. There are two straps that hold the tank in place. Remove the bolt from each strap, remove the straps, and lift the fuel tank out.
5. Now the bracket that holds the fuel pump on has to be removed. There are two bolts here to take out. Once this is done, mark the two wires to the coil and disconnect them. Set the bracket out of the way.

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HyperDrive Startup Guide

You will need a portable crane and/or a friend to lift the motor from the crate and on to the boat. Take your time and be careful. Keep fingers clear of pinch points near the mount and swivel.
Uncrating: Remove the handle and mount it to the side of the engine with three, 3/8″ bolts. Be careful not to stretch the handle wires and cables. The washers and nylock nuts installon the inside of the handle mount near the slots. The handle bolts must be snug enough to hold the handle firmly, but yet allow the handle to move up and down freely.

Unscrew the mounting clamps wide enough to easily slip over your transom. Do not use tools to tighten the clamp handles.
Mounting: When you mount the motor, it will be 1″ off center, away from the operator side of the boat, or to the left when standing near the transom facing the bow. (the Hyper propeller runs on the surface and pulls slightly to the left. By offsetting the engine, this helps reduce prop torque.) Place a mark at that point to facilitate quick mounting. When you run the Hyper, if it still pulls, you can bend the lower skeg (which is already prebent). Only do this after you have run the motor an hour or so and get accustomed to the tilt and trim adjustment. If the engine is trimmed up too far, it will also pull to one side.
- Carefully lift the motor and set it on the transom. Again, being careful not to jar or tweak the handle mounting cups. When in place, snug up the mounting clamps hand tight. If you have an older boat with a worn or a weak transom, you can add a piece of plywood or metal plate between the boat and mounting clamps. Two mounting bracket holes are provided in the mount face if you want to add 3/8″ bolts to the mount. They help hold the engine in place and deter theft.
- Connect the battery cables to the battery. We provided a group 24 size battery box. We recommend a group 24 marine cranking battery with 550 cranking amps or more. Red to (+) and black to ( -). Rotate the engine back and forth to ensure the cables travel freely.
- Electric Tilt and Trim: Read the cautions for its use on the control panel. Most importantly, don’t force the drive up or down with the handle while the actuator is running. Do not rock the actuator control back and forth causing the motor to forward and then in reverse while running. This can cause premature failure. Engine Oil: Add oil to your engine. Use a good grade of synthetic 10W-30 oil. Check the dipstick with the engine in the level position. You can use a synthetic or synthetic blend.

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Electronic Signal Modifier Installation Instructions

These instructions are only a guide to proper installation. It is the technicians’ responsibility to confirm all connections are correct, use of the proper factory service manual is recommended. We recommend that only a competent and qualified mechanic perform this installation
1) Disconnect negative terminal of battery.
2) Confirm correct plug, pin # and wire colors on ECU and ESM match the diagram provided. All connections are in one plug, check diagram for your vehicle. If there is any discrepancy between your car and the instructions consult the factory service manual to confirm proper pin locations.
3) Locate and confirm Signal wire from MAP sensor to ECU. Cut wire approximately 2” from plug. Strip a 1/2” of jacket off each end of the signal wire to expose the bare wire. Using the smaller of the two solder splice connectors (Clear adhesive ring) connect the signal from the ECU to the green wire on the ESM. Using the other small/clear solder splice connector connect the signal wire from the MAP sensor to the blue wire on the ESM.
4) Locate and confirm the MAP sensor ground wire. Cut the wire approximately 2” from plug. Strip a 1/2” of jacket off each end of the ground wire to expose the bare wire. Using the larger solder splice connector (red adhesive ring) connect the black wire from the ESM to the ground wire. On one side of the solder splice connector you will have one wire coming from the ECU into it and on the other side you will have two wires going into it, one from the MAP sensor along with the black wire from the ESM.

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Packing & Caring For Your Giant Loop Saddlebag

Packing Tips
• Do not overstuff or over-load Saddlebag. The whole concept here is to tour with the lightest load possible. Go lighter, go faster.
• See fig A. Pack sleeping bag first by pulling through one side opening and out the other to distribute volume evenly. Then, pack other items to evenly distribute the load from side-to-side. Last things to go in: tools and rain gear.
• To avoid wearing through the pack from vibrations, pack all sharp and/or hard items inside a protective layer. For example, create a sleeve for tire irons from a section of old inner tuber and pack other tools in Dave’s Oil Bottle Toolkit; wrap other hard items in clothing.
• Use compression straps to secure tent, tarp, bivy sack, sleeping pad, rain gear and other lightweight items to outside of bag.
• Although Giant Loop Saddlebags are water resistant, they are not totally dust or waterproof. These are built with 1050 Ballistic Cordura, literally the toughest product we could find but if you are going to be in torrential rain, pack gear inside heavy-duty trash bags or waterproof stuff sacks, then secure in or on bag. Been there and that actually works.
• Visit our website at GiantLoopMoto.com for more tips from riders and instructions for creating Dave’s Oil Bottle Toolkit and Inner Tube Sleeve.

Care & Washing
• Do not overstuff or over-load Saddlebag. Consult your motorcycle’s owner’s manual and do not exceed the total gear and rider weight limitations for your bike. Remember: the Giant Loop Saddlebag is all about going ultra-light. Pack only what you need, nothing more or less (see Packing Tips).
• Avoid exposure to fuel, solvents, lubricants and excessive UV from direct sunlight.
• Hand wash Saddlebag with mild soap (like Simple Green), rinse with clean water and air dry (preferably not in direct sunlight).
• To neutralize and remove residue from alkai desert soils, wash Saddlebag with a mild vinegar and water solution (one tablespoon vinegar to one gallon of water). Rinse thoroughly with fresh water and air dry.

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Bulk Instructions Simple

To get the most life and performance from RaceTEX bulk muffler packing, a mu ffler should be repacked with the core in it. Ideally, you would like to fill the front of the muffler first (the end closest to the engine) and work towards the exit. This isn’t always possible as with mufflers that have cores welded to the rear end-cap (Honda CRF150R, White Brothers E-Series for example).

Step 1 – Muffler Disassembly
Before removing any fasteners, it is a good idea to make some marks on the shell and end-caps that will remind you how to orient the end-caps during reassembly.
If one of the muffler’s end-caps has threaded fasteners, remove them and pull out the end-cap that they hold in place. If the core is still in the muffler go to Step 2. If the core is attached to the end-cap that you just removed, remove the other end-cap and re-install the core and the attached end-cap.
(Tip: If sealant is visible where the muffler body meets the end-cap, cut through it with a razor knife to break its bond.)
STEP 2 – Packing Installation
Push small amounts of the into the muffler cavity spirally around the core. Use a blunt tool like a ruler or dowel to tamp the packing into place.

Important! Make sure that the front of the muffler (closest to the engine) is completely filled with no voids before continuing to fill the rest of the muffler.

Continue to feed and tamp one handful of packing at a time into the muffler, working your way around the core. As a rule of thumb, the density of this packing for a two stroke should feel similar to the density of a new foam air filter. For four-strokes, the density should feel more like seat foam. The density of the packing must be uniform throughout the muffler for maximum durability and noise reduction. Specific density information can be found on the reverse side of this sheet.

DENSITY RECOMMENDATIONS
For maximum durability and noise reduction, the recommended densities are:
Two Stroke Engines – use ą160 grams of packing per packable liter
Four Stroke Engines – use ą210 grams of packing per packable liter

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Honda VFR750 Scottoiler Installation Guide

Locate the vacuum – There is a rubber bung over a spigot on the inlet side of the front carburetor, as shown below left. Remove this bung and then press the Damper Elbow, part number 4, onto the spigot. The RMV can be positioned under the seat, as shown in the third picture. The more vertical the RMV the better and remember to avoid exhaust and engine components. For further information, see our easy step installation guide – ‘RMV Positions, General’.

The Dispenser Assembly, shown bottom left, is routed along the Swingarm and secured to the spindle using a Dispenser Plate, part numbers 19 & 20.
Alternatively, The Dispenser Assembly is mounted to the swinging arm using the Dispenser Mounting Plates (parts 19 & 27) coupled together using a Single Sided Swingarm Adapter, available Free of Charge from Scottoiler, as shown below.
The nib of the dispenser should feed the sprocket between the 6 & 7 o’clock positions on the sprocket, the cut face facing outwards.

Once fitted, fill and prime the system and set the adjuster knob to ‘prime’.
Start the engine and turn the adjuster knob until a flow of between 1 and 2 drops per minute is achieved.
Check the condition of your chain after a ride, and then adjust as required.

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Acura GSR Whirlwind Intake Manifold Instructions

Preparation for Installation
1. Make sure that there are no metal chips or other debris inside the manifold. Check that all bolts will run freely into any tapped holes.
2. Note that while this manifold makes provision for all vacuum lines and other brackets or parts that attached to the stock manifold, the vacuum ports originally on the front side of the manifold have been moved to the back for a cleaner appearance. This will require the use of longer vacuum hoses in some cases.
3. Disconnect battery and drain coolant.
4. Mark and identify all hoses and valves.
5. Check the condition of all hoses, gaskets and o-rings. Replace as needed. Use a new intake gasket. Honda #17105-P72-004.

Removal
1. Relieve the fuel pressure in the system by loosening the banjo bolt on the top of the fuel filter. Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail. It is a good idea to replace the washers. Disconnect the fuel harness holder and unbolt. Disconnect the hoses from the fuel pressure regulator (FPR).
2. Disconnect intake hose/pipe from throttle body. Disconnect all hoses leading to the throttle body and intake manifold. Disconnect throttle cable bracket on manifold and throttle cable from throttle body. Disconnect the cables to the the throttle position sensor (TPS) and the map sensor on the throttle body.
3. Unbolt two lower intake manifold bolts that secure manifold to engine block. This bracket willl still be used to accommodate the heater bypass pipe. Unbolt manifold from engine block. Remove manifold, throttle body, and fuel rail as one unit.
4. Remove the intake air bypass (IAB) vacuum tank, check valve and control solenoid unit. Due to the different design of your new manifold, these parts will no longer be used. Do not remove the FPR hose. This hose will be used in the re-installation process.
5. Unbolt throttle body from manifold. Inspect gasket and replace if needed. Unscrew throttle body studs from flange of manifold. Remove fuel rail assembly from manifold.
6. From original manifold, unbolt and remove idle air control valve (IAC), intake air temperature valve (IAT), and o-rings. Replace o-rings if needed. Remove fuel rail studs from original manifold.

Assembly
1. Screw throttle body studs and fuel rail studs removed from original manifold into the new Power+Plus Manifold.
2. Bolt throttle body to new manifold. When positioning throttle body gasket, the U-shaped portion is in top left corner of flange.
3. Bolt idle air control valve, intake air temperature valve with o-rings to new manifold. Install fuel rail, making sure o-rings are positioned correctly to prevent fuel leakage.
4. Position new manifold assembly with throttle body and fuel rail back on the cylinder head over the studs, making sure new intake gasket is properly positioned. Connect the EVAP purge control solenoid valve. Due to the new intake manifold design, there is no mounting location for for the EVAP purge control solenoid valve. It can be zip-tied to a secure location. For 1994-’95 vehicles, one hose end will plug into the charcoal canister and the other hose end will plug into the small vacuum fitting located onthe rear of the new intake manifold. For 1996-01 vehicles. see notes below.
5. Bolt on the fuel injector harness holder and hoses, connecting the harness to the injectors. Connect TPS, map sensor, and fuel line. The FPR hose will connect to the small vacuum fitting that was originally on the front of the manifold but is now on the back. Tighten banjo bolt on top of fuel filter.
6. Use the new supplied throttle cable bracket to hook up stock throttle cable to the throttle body.
7. Connect battery and replace coolant. Cap off any unused vacuum tubes with vacuum caps.
8. Start engine, check for leaks. After engine is brought to operating temperature, shut it off and check that all nuts and bolts are tight. Retighten manifold bolts after 500 miles.

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94-97 Honda Accord Sniper Hood

STEP 1: Adjust hood until proper alignment with matching panels is achieved.
STEP 2: Adjust primary latch until it fits into the bar on the hood. Make sure when the hood is closed you can hear the latch “click” onto the hood.
STEP 3: After you here it click, test it to be sure it’s working properly by grabbing the front edge of the hood and slowly pulling upward with a steady even pressure. If the hood opens it’s not adjusted properly; repeat STEP 2 until hood cannot be pulled open after it’s closed.
STEP 4: Make sure the safety catch hook grabs onto its matching bracket on the hood.
STEP 5: To ensure the safety catch is working properly, close the hood, pull the hood release from inside the car and the hood will partially open. Slowly pull upward on the hood and jiggle it at the same time. If it opens without pulling the safety catch lever then it needs to be readjusted. The safety catch prevents the hood from opening in the event the primary latch fails.
STEP 6: Locate the hood stoppers located on each side of the radiator support. Adjust them until they apply a small amount of pressure to the underside of the hood when it is closed. This will prevent the hood from shaking or rocking.
STEP 7: For installation of squirters, follow Fig. A. Install the provided tubing clips in the pre-drilled holes under the hood to secure the hoses. Our application has 1 squirter. You will need to shorten one hose for this application.

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Acura B18 Valve Spring Set Instructions

The COMP Cams® Acura/Honda B-Series VTEC valve spring set (Fig. A) utilizes dual springs on the intake side and a single spring on the exhaust side. Below are the information and diagrams to ensure correct installation.
Installation Instructions:

Dual Intake Spring
Installed Height: 60lbs at 1.375
Open Height: 220 lbs at .875
Coil Bind Height: .815
Spring Rate: 300 lbs per inch

Single Exhaust Spring
Installed Height: 43 lbs at 1.375
Open Height: 148 lbs at .875
Coil Bind Height: .815
Spring Rate: 210 lbs per inch

Warnings and maintenance information! It is important to orientate the outer valve spring of the intake and exhaust (See Fig. B & C) with the *tightly wound coils on the bottom. THE ORIENTATION OF THE INNER INTAKE SPRING IS NOT CRITICAL.
*Note: To figure out which end is the tightly wound end start at the end of the coil. Follow it around 180° (See Fig. D) then look at the distance between the two coils. Now follow the same steps from the other end of the spring. Whichever end is closest together needs to be on the bottom.

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99-00 Civic SI-B16A2 Boost Upgrade Installation Instructions

This kit has been engineered to be an easy, bolt on upgrade to your standard Jackson Racing supercharger kit. It will raise your boost approximately 2 psi. As such, it has been designed to be a “Race Only” kit. Because of the “Race Only” design criteria, the C.A.R.B. Exemption Order number supplied with your Jackson Racing Supercharger Kit does NOT cover this product. Therefore, this racing boost upgrade is legal in California only on racing vehicles, which may never be used upon a highway. Other states may have laws governing the use of this product. Check local regulations before installation. Our kit was designed with and performs best when used with a good header, cat-back exhaust, and a good high flow air filter. Other non-specified accessories or engine components may affect your specific boost and horsepower output.

A qualified technician should install this Boost Upgrade Kit. Although it has been designed to be easily installed, every racing modification should be tuned and tested with the proper tuning equipment. We require that any cut wires be soldered and shrink wrapped for protection. This will ensure that all connections are solid and stable.

For the “Do It Yourself” installer, the following tuning hints can help you verify if your vehicle is performing properly or needs further help. Any vehicle that has an Oxygen Sensor (O2) can test its air to fuel ratio (air/fuel) using a standard digital voltmeter.

Connect the positive side of your volt-meter into the signal output wire on your O2 sensor. Connect your voltmeter ground wire to a good chassis ground. At Wide Open Throttle (WOT), with the car completely warmed up, you should be reading voltage from the O2 sensor of .84v (approximately 13-1 air/fuel ratio) to a voltage of .93v (approximately 12-1). A reading of .90 is preferred, but a voltage fluctuation from slow RPM to high RPM is normal. Do not expect the voltage to stay at one continuous level throughout the entire test. In some cases you will have a slightly over rich mixture at low speed in trade for a good even mixture at high speed. Or vice versa. As a general rule, you can allow a slightly out of specification mixture at low RPM or high RPM in trade for a better overall reading.

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Portable Self Priming Pumps Installation and Operating Instructions

PUMP LOCATION: For most efficient operation, site the pump as close to the water as practical. It is essential for the correct function of the engine that it be located on a horizontal surface. If allowed to run at an inclination, the oil lubrication system of the engine may not operate correctly. Subsequent engine failure would not be covered by the manufacturer’s guarantee. The pump should be positioned in a well drained location to avoid possible property damage by leaking hose fittings or pump seals, spilled engine fuel etc. If you intend to operate your pump on a hard surface, Davey suggest a suitable resilient mounting to be fitted to your pump and engine.

SUCTION PIPE: A reinforced or non-collapsible hose should be used for the pump suction. The minimum suction pipe size should be 38mm (11/2”) I.D. for up to 6.5hp Firefighter® models, 50mm (2”) I.D. for G5006 and 9hp & 13hp Firefighter® models and 80mm (3”) I.D. for G8016 Firefighter® models. A strainer should always be fitted to the bottom of the suction pipe. The strainer should be kept out of sand, mud etc., to avoid particles being drawn into the pump and causing damage by abrasion. Always locate the pump so that the rise of suction pipe from water to pump is even with no humps or hollows where air may be trapped. All pipe connections must be air tight for best priming and operation - check that washers in nuts and tails are in good order.

DELIvERY PIPE: Care should be taken on correct selection of pipe pressure rating as single stage Firefighter® units are capable of delivering pressures up to 650kPa (93psi). Two stage Firefighter® Plus units are capable of pressures up to 1135kPa (165psi).

PUMP PRIMING: To prime the pump initially, it is necessary to fill the pump body with water before starting the engine. The priming plug and drain plug both have “bayonet” style fitment, with a safety release mechanism. When correctly installed the plug handles will be as shown in illustration one below. To remove the plug, first twist it counter-clockwise approximately 60 degrees till any pressure is released (see illustration two). At this point the plug will partly disengage. Once any residual pressure has been released the plug can be fully removed by continuing to turn it to the 90 degree position (see illustration three).

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Gizzmo CAM/FUEL Controller Instructions Manual

The CamFC has an AFC (air/fuel controller) onboard so that the fundamental fuelling issues related to the addition of tuning accessories such as extractors, exhausts, adjustable cam gears, filters and mild cams can be resolved. The Cam switching point is adjustable in 1 RPM increments and the switch off point is adjustable as well.

The AFC is adjustable in 500rpm increments and automatically interpolates (averages) between these points. For non-adjustable cam vehicles, the CamFC can be used for its AFC and tachometer features whilst the cam trigger output can be used as an RPM switch for NOS, shiftlight, high boost solenoid etc.

AFC adjustable in 500RPM steps from 0RPM to 9000RPM
Each AFC RPM point adjustable in 1% increments to +/- 40%
Full interpolation between AFC RPM zones
Cam switch-on point is adjustable from 0RPM to 9000RPM
Cam switch-off point is adjustable from 0RPM to 8980RPM
Real-time tachometer displayed in 1RPM increments
DOT Matrix display for clarity under all conditions
Tachometer configurable for all types of vehicles
RPM activated output capable of supplying up to 1.5 amps
RPM output is configurable to switch positive or negative
Anodised Extruded Alloy case
40mhz High Speed RISC Processor

Warning/Caution
Always connect the wiring exactly as described in the instruction manual.
Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before proceeding with installation.
Do not drop or expose this unit to excessive shock.
Installation should only be performed by an experienced automotive electrician.
Keep this unit away from moisture.
Never disassemble, modify, or tamper with this unit.
Never operate this unit while driving.
Securely mount this unit away from any area that may effect driving.
This unit is only designed for 12V DC type vehicles with a negative ground supply

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2010 Insight Body Side Molding Installation Instructions

The information in this installation instruction is intended for use only by skilled technicians who have the proper tools, equipment, and training to correctly and safely add equipment to your vehicle. These procedures should not be attempted by “do-it-yourselfers.

NOTE:
• Be careful not to damage the body paint finish.
• Body side moldings should only be installed if the ambient air temperature is 15°C (60°F) or above.
• To allow the adhesive to cure, do not wash the vehicle for 24 hours. Please advise the customer.
• These installation instructions show the left body side moldings being installed. The same procedure applies to installing the right body side moldings.

1. Using one alcohol swab, clean the area where the left body side molding will attach.
2. Align the front template to the left front door and attach the template to the door using strips of masking tape.
3. Place the left front body side molding against the template to verify the installation position on the left front door. Remove the body side molding.
4. Peel back approximately 1½ to 2 inches of adhesive backing from each adhesive tape, and tape the ends to the front surface of the body side molding. Remove the small end pieces of the adhesive backing.
5. Align the left front body side molding with the front template, and attach it to the left front door. If the vehicle has door edge film installed, align the end with the door edge film.
6. Press on the left front body side molding firmly with the palm of your hand while removing the adhesive backings. Remove about 2 to 4 inches at a time while pressing on the molding with the palm of your hand.

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HONDA GL1800 Gold Wing Tour Luggage Rack Installation Instructions

INSTALLATION:
1. POSITION RACK SQUARELY ON TRUNK LID AS FAR FORWARD AS POSSIBLE WITHOUT ALLOWING ENDS TO RUB ON PASSENGER BACKREST SECTION.
2. LIFT RACK SLIGHTLY AND PLACE THREE 3″ - 4″ PIECES OF MASKING TAPE UNDER EACH OF THE REAR LEGS. (FIG B).
3. USE A MARKING PEN TO OUTLINE EACH OF THE FOUR MOUNTING LEGS ONTO THE TAPE STRIPS.
4. REPOSITION THE RACK OVER THE MARKED CIRCLES TO MAKE CERTAIN THE RACK IS IN THE EXACT LOCATION YOU DESIRE. (IF NECESSARY, REMARK ANY INCORRECT CIRCLE MARKINGS.)
5. SET THE RACK ASIDE. USING THE CENTER PUNCH, MARK THE HOLE CENTERS IN THE FOUR MOUNTING LOCATIONS. DRILL 1/4″ HOLES THROUGH THE LID.
6. CAREFULLY REMOVE ALL MASKING TAPE FROM LID AND LEGS. REMOVE THE FOUR RUBBER BOOTS AND ATTACH RACK ACCORDING TO FIGURE A.

IMPORTANT:
1. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE (4) MOUNTING SCREWS –THERE IS A SPACE BETWEEN THE INNER & OUTER TRUNK LID. OVER TIGHTENING MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE OUTER LID.
2. THIS RACK WAS DESIGNED TO SAFELY CARRY A WEIGHT LOAD OF TEN POUNDS OVERLOADING THE RACK MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE TRUNK LID.

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HONDA CRF450X Flywheels Installation Instructions

STEP 1: BEFORE YOU BEGIN
WARNING: ALL TRAILTECH FLYWHEELS WILL CHANGE THE PERFORMANCE OF YOUR VEHICLE. It is highly recommended that you spend the time necessary to familiarize yourself with the performance changes, and become comfortable with the way the bike produces power with the new part.
STEP 2: INSTALL FLYWHEEL
1. Drain 20% of the oil from the bike first.
2. Shut the gas supply off on the bike, then lay it over on its side. A small amount of gas will leak from the overflow tubes when the bike is first laid down.
3. Remove shifter.
4. Remove bolts holding the side cover on (no need to remove one of the oil filter bolts).
5. Remove oil fill cap.
6. Disconnect clutch cable and lay cable out of the way.
7. Remove side case and lay it next to the main case to avoid removing any wires. TAKE CARE - do not allow the two alignment pins to come loose from the side case. They CAN stay in the side case or in the main case, but you don’t want them to fall out and get lost; or, even worse, dropped in the oil for later consumption by the motor!!
8. Use a 17mm deep socket and impact ratchet to remove the flywheel retaining nut. If an air ratchet is not available, hold the rear wheel while removing the 17mm flywheel nut. Note: If a Deep socket is not used damage to the crankshaft oiler may occur.
9. Use flywheel puller to remove the flywheel. Remember to install protective nut on to crankshaft to avoid damage to end of flywheel. Note: there is a small hole on the shaft that allows for oil flow to the crankshaft - using the correct flywheel puller will protect this hole.
10. Install new flywheel and torque flywheel bolt to manufactureer specification. Do not use thread locking compound. Use the woodruff key on the crank to line up the keyway on the flywheel with the crankshaft.
11. For ease of assembly, connect clutch cable before installing bolts.
12. Replace the side case. Use a new gasket if necessary. Torque side case bolts to 7 foot pounds. Do not overtighten these bolts! Replace the shifter. Make sure the bolt threads in smoothly - cross threading is easy. You will need a Honda CRF flywheel puller (TT part# 6600-P02) for this installation. An impact ratchet is also highly recommended.

Note: Trail Tech CRF450X flywheel is provided with one M6×25MM BHCS to replace the timing chain guide bolt (A), and a M6×12 BHCS to replace the guide retainer bolt (B). These bolts allow for the flange on the exterior of the flywheel to clear the fasteners. Trail Tech is not liable for any damage due to the improper installation or lack of installation of these bolts. Contact Trail Tech Tech-Support for further questions.

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2003-2006 Honda / Acura CD Changer Interface Model HONASX V.2 Installation

Adapter Installation Location:
The HONASX connects to the 14-pin connector on the back of the factory head unit.
Compatible Radios:
The HONASX is compatible with ‘03-’06 Honda CD changer control head units with 14 pin connector. Note: As vehicle manufacturers continually introduce updated radio models there may be instances where the interface is not compatible. Please contact Technical support if you experience any problems. Have all radio model numbers, vehicle information and symptoms ready when you call.

Function Overview:
The HONASX can either provide up to 2 auxiliary audio inputs to your Honda radio for use with any device that has RCA line level outputs, or provides 1 auxiliary audio input and allows interfacing an aftermarket CD Changer. AUX 1 is the 8 pin DIN to RCA cable which plugs into the 8 pin DIN port on the HONASX interface. AUX 2 is the set of RCAs that are wired directly to the HONASX. These audio inputs are perfectly suited for Multimedia devices such as VCRs, DVD’s, Game Systems or TV tuners. Portable music players such as MP3, MD and CD players can utilize these inputs as well.

Installation and USE:
Using AUX1 & AUX 2 Inputs Without Aftermarket CD Changer
To select AUX 1 , make sure that the BROWN loop wire is connected, and the WHITE loop wire is disconnected. Press the CD/AUX button on the factory radio.
Audio will now pass through from the AUX 1 input and the radio will display: 1-You can select the AUX 2 input in two different ways:
1.) Activating AUX 2 using negative ground. Attach GRAY wire on the HONASX to a toggle switch that will ground the GRAY wire when selected; Make sure that the BROWN loop wire is connected, and the WHITE loop wire is disconnected. Be sure to insulate the ORANGE wire. Audio from AUX 1 will be interrupted, and audio from the AUX 2 input will pass through. The factory radio will display: A
2.) Activating AUX 2 using positive turn-on. If the Multimedia/Auxiliary device you are using is equipped with a 12V turn-on output, connect it to the ORANGE wire on the HONASX. Make sure that the BROWN loop wire is connected, and the WHITE loop wire is disconnected. Be sure to insulate the GRAY wire to insure that it does not come in contact with chassis ground. Once the Multimedia/Auxiliary device is powered up, audio from AUX 1 will be interrupted. The AUX 2 input becomes activated and the audio signal from that device will pass through. The factory radio will display: A

Using with Aftermarket CD Changer and AUX 2 Input
To activate this input you must disconnect the two ends of the BROWN loop, and connect the two ends of the WHITE wire loop. Attach the GRAY wire from the HONASX to a toggle switch that will ground the GRAY wire when selected. When the GRAY wire is grounded the CD changer will automatically pause and audio from the AUX 2 input will then be heard. When the GRAY wire is ungrounded CD changer operation will resume where it left off.
Special Instructions:
The HONASX allows an aftermarket 6 or 10 disc CD changer to function exactly as a factory CD changer would. For Sanyo and Audiovox changers, use the 8 pin port on the side of the interface marked: For Sanyo/Audiovox CD Changers or Aux 1 Input. For Alpine changers, use the directly wired 8 pin connector marked: For Alpine CD Changer Connection Only. To function properly with a 10 disc changer the magazine must be fully loaded with a disc in each tray. Please refer to vehicle’s owner’s manual for specific radio and changer operation.
Compatible CD Changers:
Sanyo CD Changers EAX-510,EAX-530; Sanyo DVD Changers DV-5100, DV-5300; Audiovox CD Changers SP6CDS, SP10CDS, SP11CDS.

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Honda VTX 1300 Forward Control Installation Instructions

Before beginning your installation, please note the following:
• Though our products allow for user friendly installation, Supreme Legends USA recommends all installation of our product to be done by a qualified mechanic or individual.
• Some controls may require additional components not included with your kit. Some instructions may or may not be included such as installation of a brake line or brake banjo switch, minor adjustment of shift rods, or installation of a kickstand bracket on 2000 up FXST models. (extended 2” or 3” models will require longer brake lines and possibly longer shift rods)
• Please remember to use thread locking compound (we recommend Loctite blue 242) on any components which could come loose by vibration. Be certain to verify your mounting bolts, toe and foot pegs. Though we apply Loctite to some of our bolts, we DO NOT apply any to our pegs so that you may make final clocking/comfort adjustments for your particular application. DO NOT USE RED!!
• We recommend using an appropriate motorcycle lift when possible. Be certain the lift can maintain the weight of your bike without question, and be certain to secure the bike as necessary during installation of the controls.
• Be certain to dispose of all fluids properly
• BE AWARE OF WHICH TYPE OF BRAKE FLUID YOU ARE USING IN YOUR LINES. NEVER MIX DOT 4 AND DOT 5 TOGETHER. SUPREME LEGENDS USA WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGE INCURRED TO YOUR VEHICLE DUE TO INCORRECT INSTALLATION OF PRODUCT OR USE OF INCORRECT FLUID. PLEASE CONSULT YOUR LOCAL DEALER.
• Remember that with this installation you are modifying your motorcycle, and though our controls are assembled to a “stock” comfortable fitment, there will be adjustment necessary to ensure adequate comfort for your shifting foot, as well as ensuring all shifting is occurring appropriately.
• Any models requiring the electronic banjo brake switch will require minor wiring, and a good amount of brake bleeding to ensure adequate pressure is allowed to actuate the brake light through the switch.
• Always be sure to have a helping hand available. Though most of the installation is a “one man show”, it’s always good to have a second set of hands available.

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Diesel Engine Setting/Locking Tool Set Instructions

VS123.V2 Tool Set comprises the timing pins and specialised tensioner adjustment tools required for timing belt replacement on all the variants of the Rover 2.0 diesel engine fitted in MG-Rover, Land Rover and Honda models.

FLYWHEEL LOCKING PIN - VS170/1
VS170/1 Locking Pin is used to lock the crankshaft in its timed position. The pin is inserted through a hole in the gearbox mounting back plate and engages a corresponding hole in the flywheel.

INJECTION PUMP LOCKING PIN - VS120/1
VS120/1 Pin locates through a hole in the injection pump sprocket into a recess in the pump mounting flange to lock the injection pump in its timed position.

TENSIONER TOOL - TIMING BELT AUTOMATIC TENSIONER - VS1201
These ‘L Series’ engines require VS1201 to retract the automatic tensioner assembly during timing belt replacement applications. When removing the belt the tensioner nut is slackened and tensioner access plug removed to allow VS1201 to be fitted to pull back/retract the tensioner plunger.

TENSIONER ADJUSTER - INJECTION PUMP BELT AUTOMATIC TENSIONER - VS4739
On Rover 25 and 45 and MG ZR and ZS models the automatic tensioner on the injection pump drive belt requires VS4739 Adjuster to correctly set the tensioner position.
Note: Correct tensioner position varies and depends upon model.
Rover 25/45 up to 2001 usually set the tensioner pointer in line with the notch, whereas after 2001 and on MG models the requirement may be to position the pointer aligned to the lower edge of the tensioner backplate. Check workshop manual for the tensioner position of the specific model being worked on.

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KE-6800 Keeper-Eeze Instructions

Valve Removal Instructions
1. Place the Assembly Stand on the work surface and set the deck surface of the cylinder head on the protective foam. The Assembly Stand will prevent the head from moving during disassembly
2. Valve Support Selection: Choose the appropriate valve support component. A Shot-Bag or Chamber Plug must be used to hold up the valves while removing the valve locks.
• The Shot-Bags will conform to the combustion chamber. They should not protrude too far from the deck surface when installed. Choose from the different size bags for the correct fit. Multiple bags can be used for large chambers. (See Image 1)
• The Chamber Plugs will snap into the spark plug hole and bump against the valve faces on four-valve heads. Choose the Chamber Plug size that contacts the valves the best and does not protrude too far out of the combustion chamber. (See Image 2)
• Support Installation: Tilt the cylinder head up and place the valve support* into the combustion chamber or spark plug hole. Tilt the head back down on the stand so that the bag or plug is seated on the valve faces. Make sure the head is stable as it sits on the Assembly Stand.
Tech Tip: To reduce assembly time, install valve supports in every chamber of the head.
3. Sleeve Selection: Determine the correct protective guide Sleeve. Pick the Sleeve that fits inside the lifter bore and around the spring/retainer assembly. Some engines require the valve spring clearance relief to be used as a guide. (See Image 3)
Tech Tip: Use the available B-Series Twin Sleeve for extra protection on the Honda B-Series motors. (Order No. KE-6840)
4. Hold the t-handle portion of the Keeper-Eeze tool with the tube down between the fingers. Remove any Loader Modules from the tool by gently pulling on the plunger at the end to overcome the magnetic force. Retract the Adjuster by loosening the knob on the side and pulling it back. (See Image 4)
5. Insert the Remover attachment (Order No. KE-6803) into the end of the Keeper-Eeze tool. Push it in with a twisting action until it is fully seated. (See Image 5)
6. Insert “T” Handle in sleeve installed in step 3 (Image 6) Hold down tool firmly with one hand and swiftly strike T-Handle with opposite hand. This will release keepers.
7. Pull the tool away from the cylinder head. The valve locks and retainer will be held safe by the Remover. Store the components for later assembly. (See Image 7 &

Valve Assembly Instructions
1. Place the Assembly Stand on the work surface and set the deck surface of the cylinder head on the protective foam. The Assembly Stand will prevent the head from moving during assembly
2. Determine the best valve support* for the cylinder head and install according to the previous “Valve Support Selection” section. (See #2 Under Valve Removal Instructions)
3. Determine the correct sleeve for the cylinder head according to the previous “Sleeve Selection” section.(See #3 Under Valve Removal Instructions also see Image 3)
4. Loader Selection: Determine the correct valve Loader module based on the valve stem size. Measure the diameter of the valve stem and choose a Loader that is the same size. (See Image 9) Note: The valve stem should be able to fit inside the Loader when the plunger is depressed.
5. Loader Adjustment: Insert the valve Loader into the Keeper-Eeze tool with the plunger pointing out. (See Image 10)
• Place the valve locks on the plunger at the end of the valve Loader. The locks should approximate the way they are installed on the valve. Tech Tip: For best assembly results, align the parting line of the two locks with the direction of the t-handle portion of the tool. (See Image 11)
• Loosen the adjuster knob on the side of the Keeper-eeze tool. With the other hand, place the valve spring retainer against the end of the Keeper-eeze tool and hold it in place. Slide the adjuster up until the valve locks touch the inside of the retainer bore. Tighten the adjuster knob. The tool is now adjusted for the cylinder head. Tech Tip: Slightly preload, follow the normal adjustment process, but move the adjuster a slight distance further out of the tool.

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1986-93 Suzuki RM125 ESL450 Ignition/Lighting StatorFitting Instructions

Read these instructions completely
Step 1:Take the ignition cover off. Are The Replacement Parts Similar? Compare the replacement part to the original. The replacement part should match, including the mounting hole locations. If not: Double check the application listing with your bike.
Step 2: Remove the flywheel using a proper puller. Remove the baseplate with the original stator. Disconnect the wires from the wiring loom.
Step 3: Remove existing stator coil off the baseplate and cut the wires close to the coil. Replace it with the new unit and feed the new leads though the holes in the baseplate.
Step 4: Screw the unit tight in position, as shown in the diagram, and make sure you use locking compound on the screws. TIGHTEN THE SCREWS SECURELY! Ignition Connections Suzuki RM: Connect the new BLACK lead to the original RED/ WHITE wire. Connect the new BLUE lead to the original BLACK/ RED wire. Honda CR: Connect the new BLACK lead to the original WHITE wire. Connect the new BLUE lead to the original RED wire. Yamaha YZ: Connect the new BLACK lead to the original BROWN wire. Connect the new BLUE lead to the original RED wire.
Step 5: Make sure the connections you make are good ones. Preferably you should crimp the wires using a high quality crimps. Otherwise use solder, but be aware that solder doesn’t work very well on older wiring. Lighting Connection Single YELLOW lighting output can be connected up straight to the lighting circuit. However it is better to use a 12V-AC regulator (ERG-200) parallel in circuit. The ground tag for the lighting coil can be hooked up under the base plate fitting screw. Take a look at our universal instructions for lighting coils for wiring details.
Step 6: On all applications, ensure the wires CANNOT TOUCH THE FLYWHEEL.

Troubleshooting
Engine will not start: Sometimes the source coil wires are reversed. Swap the connections, resolder the wires and the engine should start. If the engine still does not start, and before calling technical support at ElectroSport, preform a few basic tests: 1) Re-check the connections. Make sure you carefully solder the connections. Twisting wires together or taping wires will cause engine inoperability. 2) Check the engine for spark and 3) Is fresh fuel in the gas tank? If you still cannot get the engine to start, have all your testing information ready for a technician prior to calling.

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MORSE Marine Products SL3 Engine Controls Owner’s Manual

This manual must be accessible to the owner/user of this Morse marine product. Includes Installation, operation and maintenance instructions for your Morse marine product. Please read these Instructions through carefully and entirely before beginning Installation.

• PUSH BUTTON: Used for starling or engine warm-up. When the hand lever is in the neutral detent position, depress the button in the center of thfe handle to enable operation of the throttle without engaging forward or reverse gear. When warm-up Is completed, return the lever to the neutral position: the button will pop back out, making the control ready for normal operation.
• THROTTLE DAMPER:
Adjustment of this screw enables the friction in the throttle operating mechanism to be increased and prevent unwanted handle movement. To adjust, place the hand lever in the forward or reverse throttle position (just beyond the shift position). Remove the cover and adjust the damper screw; turning the screw clockwise increases the friction. Care should be taken not to overtighten.

The Morse Model SL3 Control provides both shift and throttle operation for outboards, ¡nboard/outboards, or ¡nboards with hydraulic* transmissions, or small, manual transmissions (Hurth, Yanmar) with light shifting loads of 15 lbs (6.8kg) max. It can be used with Morse STD.33C, 33C SUPREME, “KM” or “OS” Cables.
* Allison, Borg Warner, Caterpillar, Paragon, Twin Disc, ZF, Newage, Hurth.
STANDARD CONTROL FEATURES
• SINGLE LEVER OPERATION.
• NEUTRAL THROTTLE WARM-UP.
• NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH TO PREVENT STARTING IN GEAR.
• THREE POSITION SHIFT ARM TO PROVIDE 3 TRAVEL OPTIONS.
• FRICTION DAMPER TO PREVENT THROTTLE “CREEP”

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BBR Rear Disk Brake Kit Instructions

Thank you for the purchase of this rear disc brake kit for the CRF/XR50! Everything is included in this kit to add a rear disc brake to your BBR Perimeter Aluminum Frame kit based motorcycle. If you are adapting this kit to the OEM Honda frame or another aftermarket frame kit, you will need our adapter kit PN 550-HXR-5050. Because installation of this kit is beyond the control of BBR Motorsports, Inc, we cannot accept responsibilty for misuse or improper installation. This kit is intended only for use on off-road motorcycles. These instructions are intended only as a supliment to the proper Honda service manual. If the installation of this product is beyond your technical abilities please refer to qualified service personel.

1. Support bike on stand with rear tire off of ground. Remove seat and body work. Remove rear wheel and brake pedal.
2. Remove shipping bracket from master cylinder.
3. Remove shipping wedge from the caliper.
4. Install master cylinder on frame using supplied 6mm bolts.
5. Install master cylinder reservoir on upper subframe bolt using the supplied bracket and longer bolt.
6. Slide caliper (on mount) onto back of swingarm
7. Stick brake hose mounts onto swingarm. Be sure to clean the swingarm to insure that they stick properly.
8. Install rotor and sprocket on the rear hub. BBR recommends using a thread lock adhesive on all these bolts
9. Install rear wheel. Use care to insure that the rotor slides between the brake pads and the wheel spacers stay in place.
10. Install brake pedal tip in desired location. BBR recommends using a thread lock here also.
11. Unsnap the clevis pin from the bottom of the brake reservoir.
12. Install the brake pedal spring on the top bolt mount.
13. Install the brake pedal and hook the bottom end of the brake pedal spring on the pedal.
14. Adjust the clevis to line up with the brake pedal.

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