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Fury Build Manual

Fury Build Manual

In order to build you FURY you will need a number of mechanical components from a FORD SIERRA for IRS version and FORD ESCORT MK2 for LIVE AXLE. Although the ESCORT and SIERRA are comparatively hard-wearing vehicles we strongly recommend replacing the following components for the sake of your own safety:

All brake components including rear slave cylinders. ALL brake lines, brake flexible hoses: Rear brake shoes, front disc pads and fuel lines. Also check: brake discs for wear and run-out, complete steering for any play (worn bushes) etc. For a reliable vehicle we advise you to also check the following: The radiator for damage (leaks), and all the cooling system especially the hoses and clips.

IF IN DOUBT THROW THEM OUT
Renew the fan belt. HT leads, condenser, plugs and points etc.
ON COMPLETION of your Fury have the tracking checked and set correctly. Remember the Fury is much lighter than the donor Sierra or Escort so LOWER tyre pressures will be needed:
Try 18-20 psi to start with and adjust to suit. Finally on completion of your Fury check ALL nuts and bolts for the correct tightness (torque) before venturing on to the road, and again after about 3 –4 weeks use.

In SECTION TWO of the MANUAL we suggest a build-up sequence for the Fury, you may wish to vary this; however we do ask you to read this construction manual thoroughly BEFORE YOU START YOUR BUILD UP . . . . . It may save you money and hours of your valuable time!

For you assistance during and after construction of you FURY we recommend the purchase of a Haynes Manual or similar. It is not proposed that this construction manual will cover renovation or replacement of standard FORD SIERRA and ESCORT parts.

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ST400 Series Tachometers User Manual

ST400 Series Tachometers User Manual

The range of STACK Logging Tachometers has been designed and developed from the highly successful, award winning STACK Intelligent Tachometer. The full power of the in-built microcomputer, which is found at the heart of all STACK tachometers, has now been utilised for data analysis as well as driver display and data recording. Also in common with the range of highly respected Stack Intelligent Tachometers, the driver display consists of a high precision positive drive mechanism, which ensures accurate information is being displayed under all circumstances.

Within this range of instruments there are three different models, each having its own combination of available features. The recording models have the ability to download data, via the in-built RS232 interface, to a PC for analysis.

The full list of features available on tachometers within the range is as follows:
* Positive needle RPM display
* Maximum RPM tell-tale
* Shift RPM or ‘Fast Lap’ indicator
* ‘Action Replay’ on-dial display of recorded data
* Lap times recording
* 25 minute 10Hz or 12 minute 20Hz recording rate

The information produced by the tachometer should, if used wisely, enable the user to implement changes to the vehicle which will improve the overall performance.

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Towbar Wiring Essentials Training Manual

Towbar Wiring Essentials Training Manual

This manual has eight modules, covering key topics relating to Towbar electrics. Each module except 3 and 4 has a guidance section and a review section.
• Each Guidance section contains information and best practice.
• Each Review section is a form of self-evaluation chart and is to be used by the trainee during their everyday work, to judge their own performance against the standards indicated. The principle of the reviews is to harness the natural enthusiasm most people have to measure their own work against the highest standard

Road Lights
Initial Checks
The questions in this section point you at the checks you should do:
Check the operation of all lights and other functions on your check lists
Check that no warning lights are on to begin with (i.e. that there are no existing faults before you start.)
Take individual rear bulbs out, switch on and look for bulb-failure warning - (perhaps not the preferred option if multiplexed)
Look at high level lights, etc. and see if they are original equipment.
Look in the handbook to see if multiplex systems are mentioned.
Tell-tale signs are not obvious but some multiplex junction boxes have few (e.g. three) wires going in, including at least one thick one, and many coming out to feed the lamps. (Volvo Merc’s, Citroen have many cables running in all directions. On the other hand, Honda Fog Lamps show no unusual signs.)

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RoadPilot Pro Owner’s Manual

RoadPilot Pro Owner’s Manual

Thank you for purchasing RoadPilot Pro, which will give you many years of quality service. Please read this manual carefully before use or installation and keep this manual for future reference.

In an era of innovation and technology, RoadPilot leads the way allowing you to benefit from high technology solutions today. RoadPilot Pro is the latest in our range of accurate and reliable safety devices that use satellite location technology to identify your proximity to collision hot spot locations identified by road traffic authorities with speed detection devices (SDD).

RoadPilot Pro uses the latest in second generation satellite positioning technology along with the most up to date and accurate database of the positions of all speed cameras in the country. The advanced touch screen display makes RoadPilot Pro very easy to use and gives useful additional information to make your driving experience easier and safer. We at RoadPilot do not condone speeding. Anyone who commits an offense whilst using a RoadPilot product is deemed to have broken the law and will have no recourse, legal or otherwise against RoadPilot Ltd, its agents or representatives. We operate a policy of continuous development and reserve the right to alter and improve the specification of their products without notice.

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Universal Dash Programmer

Universal Dash Programmer

How to use the Universal Dash Programmer
Power supply
The Universal Dash Programmer handheld is powerded with 12 V by a 3,5 mm miniplug (port 1). Please use an AC adapter with at least 500 mA, better 1 A. External power supply is necessary when programming a detached odometer. When programming through the diagnostic port, the handdeld is powered by the car through the port. The diagnostic plug is positioned in port 3.

Start menu:
When supplying the handheld with power, you can see the start menu in the display. It offers the possibility, to change the backlight by pressing the STOP button. With button 0 you can make an update( software updates). Press OK to continue.
Now the handheld is asking for a password. This function is always activated when you get a Universal Dash Programmer, but you can switch it off ( options).

Software updates can be installed by yourself to the handheld. You only need a DOS or Windows computer with a serial port and a 0-modem cable:
PLEASE ERASE all eep’s before updating you Universal Dash Programmer!!!!
1. Connect the cable to your computer(com 1 or com 2) and port 2 on the handheld.
2. When starting the handheld, choose SYNC for update.
3. Start the update program that you have received from us and make sure that you have a working internet connection.
4. wait until you see “RESET” on the display.
5. For new types please contact us to get the code you have to type in under update special.

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2005-Present Dodge Charger Grille set Install Manual

2005-Present Dodge Charger Grille set Install Manual

Dodge Charger Figure Grille Installation
Figure 1. Examples of low-profile Philips screwdrivers. 1) Ratchet (¼” drive) with ¼” socket and Philips bit. 2) Offset Philips screwdriver.
1.1) Remove radiator covers. Begin by popping the hood of your vehicle. There are two plastic protective shields which cover the radiator area. These are held in place by small clips which will let go easily by pulling on the pieces. Fig. 2 shows these covers and illustrates their removal.
1.2) Remove the grille frame screws. The grille assembly consists of two pieces, the grille frame and the grille (Fig. 3). Both must be removed from the vehicle to release the grille Use a low-profile Philips screwdriver (Fig. 1) to remove the four screws that secure the grille assembly to the bumper. The locations of these screws are shown in Fig. 4
1.4) Remove grille assembly from bumper. Once the four screws are removed from the grille assembly, the grille frame is still held in place by four tabs along its perimeter. These tabs are visible from inside the engine compartment (Fig. 5). Insert a slotted screwdriver between the grille frame and the bumper at the outside of the vehicle (Fig. 6.), and gently pry the grille frame from the bumper by freeing each of the four tabs as you work your way around the grille frame.
1.5) Separate the grille from the grille frame. First free the outsides of the grille from the frame by inserting a slotted screwdriver between the grille and the frame at the tab clips (Fig. 7.1), and pry upward until the grill slot is free of the retaining lip on the frame tab (Fig. 7.2).

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Manure Spreader Truck Unit Operator’s Manual Maintenance and Repair Parts

Manure Spreader Truck Unit Operator’s Manual Maintenance and Repair Parts

Two vertical spinning beaters at the rear of the spreader expel manure in a uniform spread pattern. Each beater is driven by a hydraulic motor. A PTO driven hydraulic power supply on the spreader provides power to the beaters. The hydraulic pump is two stage thereby supplying independent power to each beater motor.

A wide heavy duty belt covers the box floor. At the front of the spreader, this belt is attached to a sliding gate. At the rear, this belt goes around a belt idler pulley and on the lower side is connected to a drive chain. At the front of the spreader, this chain is driven by a hydraulic motor driving a planetary gear box and sprocket that is powered by the truck hydraulic system. Driving the belt toward the rear of the spreader pulls the sliding gate rearward to move the load toward the beaters. A manually adjustable flow control in the drive chain motor circuit regulates the speed the gate moves.

An end gate at the rear of the spreader is raised and lowered by two hydraulic cylinders, powered by the truck hydraulic system. This gate must be lowered during loading to prevent packing of the material into the beaters and to help prevent leakage during transport.

PRE OPERATION CHECKLIST
1. Carefully study and understand this manual.
2. Do not wear loose-fitting clothing, which may catch in moving parts.
3. Always wear protective clothing and substantial shoes.
4. Keep wheel lug nuts or bolts tightened to specified torque.
5. Give the unit a visual inspection for any loose bolts, worn parts or cracked welds, and make necessary repairs. Follow the maintenance safety instructions included in this manual.
6. Check to see that no obstructions are present in the spreader prior to start up.
7. Be sure that there are no tools lying on or in the spreader.
8. Do not use the unit until you are sure that the area is clear, especially children and animals.
9. The ball valve in the suction line must be open prior to engaging PTO (handle parallel with valve housing).
10. Because it is possible that this spreader may be used in dry areas or the presence of combustibles, special precautions should be taken to prevent fires and fire fighting equipment should be readily available.
11. Don’t hurry the learning process or take the unit for granted. Ease into it and become familiar with your new spreader.
12. Practice operation of your spreader and its attachments. Completely familiarize yourself and other operators with its operation before using.
13. Do not allow anyone to ride on the inside or the outside of the spreader unit at any time.

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AD38 Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge Skim Pin Code ByPass Operating Manual

AD38 Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge Skim Pin Code ByPass Operating Manual

The AD38 is a small standalone device that can overwrite the pin code stored within the skim module fitted to Chrysler/Jeep & Dodge vehicles fitted with CAN 2,3,4,5 and 6 systems. This will then allow new keys to be programmed into the vehicle. The skim module is Chrysler terminology for a combined immobiliser and aerial module. Writing a new pin code to the skim module involves removing the Skim module, which is located around the ignition barrel, from the vehicle, which is a fairly simple process.

The pin code that is written to the skim module is a fixed code that is shown on the rear of the actual tool. Once the new pin code has been written to the module, keys can be programmed into the vehicle by using any Advanced Diagnostics key programming tool.

AD38 - OPERATION
1. Disconnect & remove immobiliser unit from around the ignition barrel of the vehicle.
2. De-solder the coil connections and remove the electronic pcb
3. Remove the varnish from the legs of the chip on the pcb.
4. Clip the connector over the chip, with the black dot on the connector on pin 1.

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2003 Dodge Cummins ATS Co-Pilot Module Installation Manual

2003 Dodge Cummins ATS Co-Pilot Module Installation Manual

The ATS Co-Pilot module commands the lock-up clutch of the torque converter along with the exhaust brake, if equipped, to stay engaged. This allows for up to 100% of the retarding force to be transferred in 3rd and 4th gear and the transmission oil temperature to remain low because of little to no slippage occurring when the converter is in these selected gears. When the ATS Valve Body is installed, you can use engine braking in the low-speed position of nearly 12 mph in 1st or 2nd gear.

Currently, exhaust brake usage can cause high temperatures in the automatic transmission due to torque converter slippage. And only a small portion of the retarding force is transferred through the fluid coupling of most torque converters. The Co-Pilot has been developed to provide lock-up capability in all gears. NOTE: On Dodge transmissions the ATS Valve Body must be installed to utilize 1st and 2nd gear lock-up capability. The factory computer is programmed to disengage lock-up under many conditions, which inhibits the performance of the transmission. A few of these conditions are:
- Lock-up disengagement at full throttle
- Lock-up disengagement at closed throttle
- Delayed lock-up engagement when accelerating from a stop
- Delayed lock-up engagement before desired engine temperatures are reached
- Lock-up disengagement under high power output

The factory has programmed the stock computer with these features in order to minimize the stress on the factory torque converter. The ATS Co-Pilot module allows the driver to have manual control over the engagement and disengagement of the torque converter clutch.

The variable control panel on the face of the ATS Co-Pilot Module allows the driver to select and view the speed at which the torque converter clutch will engage and disengage. When the round button on the left side of the Co-Pilot face is depressed and the blue light is turned off, the Co-Pilot is disabled. This will allow the factory PCM (Power Train Control Module) to operate the vehicle as it is in stock form. The OFF position is indicated by none of the lights being lit on the face of the box. To activate the unit, depress the round button (ATS Button) on the left side of the face, one of the blue lights on the face will light up, the light also indicates the level the Co-Pilot was set on before it was last shut OFF. This will tell the Co-Pilot to watch for vehicle speed. The minimum speed the Co-Pilot will engage is around 12 mph. The minimum speed of around 12 mph is selected by depressing the down arrow button on the display. This will cause the Co-Pilot to send a signal to the transmission (and exhaust brake if equipped) to lock-up the torque converter at its minimum allowable speed. When the up arrow key is pressed the lock-up speed will increase by about 5 mph. When the down arrow key is pressed the lock-up speed will decrease by about 5 mph. One of the blue lights on the right side of the display will indicate the set speed selected by the driver. When the blue light is at full right the lock-up speed is indicating a maximum set speed around 55 mph. Note: the factory TCC apply signal from the factory PCM will pass through the Co-Pilot if the factory PCM signal is commanded (turned ON) before the Co-Pilot sends the lock-up signal.

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DODGE Vizorlight Charger/Magnum Hardware & Installation Manual

DODGE Vizorlight Charger/Magnum Hardware & Installation Manual

This VIZORLIGHT‐S®:
• Is designed for use with 2006 through the current Dodge Charger/Magnum model.
• Is designed and intended to function as an emergency warning light mounted to the windshield visors.
• Has an electric operating system requirement of 12 volts DC, with a negative ground.
• Will operate independently or in conjunction with Rontan light controllers or universal light controllers (ICM30® or ICM40® required).
• Stores all flash patterns in the light assembly intelligence.
• Plug‐and‐play operability and modular design of the light heads facilitate installation, quick color changes, and field upgradeability.
• Is vehicle specific and if used with other models or applications, may require some modifications.
• Is engineered with Rontan’s two‐wire technology capability for ease of installation and quick programming.
• All Rontan North America products are SAE compliant and meet Calif. Title 13 standards

Hardware Guide:
Step 1
Remove the light and attachment hardware from the packaging.
Step 2
Remove the visors and visor clips using a T20 Torx driver. Do not discard the screws as they will be needed for reinstalling the visor clips and visors later
Step 3
Slide the brackets into the proper Vizorlight‐S® slots as shown and then flip the brackets up to align the screw holes. Loosely attach the brackets to the Vizorlights‐S® with the supplied black screws and washers.

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1/5 SCALE DUCATI 999R NITRO POWERED R/C MOTORBIKE

1/5 SCALE DUCATI 999R NITRO POWERED R/C MOTORBIKE

INSTALLING THE RADIO GEAR
Skip if already assembled in RTR version
a. Install the receiver switch onto the servo mount beside the steering servo with 2 tap screws.
b. Install the steering servo onto the servo mount with four tap screws. (Note the output shaft should be centered between the chassis frames.)
c. Install the throttle servo onto the servo mount with 4 tap screws. The mounting position is shown in this manual.
d. Install the receiver above the space between two frame posts using supplied double-sided tape.
e. Install the receiver battery pack on the bottom of the chassis. Then secure the battery pack with large zip tie.
f. Ensure all wires are securely connected to the receiver:
steering servo connector plug - into the channel 1 slot throttle servo connector plug - into the channel 2 slot battery switch connector plug - into battery slot. Then thread the receiver antenna/wire through the antenna mount.
g. Thread the receiver antenna/wire all the way through the antenna tube and install the antenna tube onto the mount. Place the supplies antenna tip over the top of the antenna tube to secure the antenna/wire.
h. Then, use a small cable-tie or zip tie to organize the excess wiring from any high temperature or moving parts

INSTALLING STEERING SERVO LINKAGE
a. Build the oil-filled steering damper & servo linkage as shown on the diagram. The initial factory setting of the steering servo linkage (with damper) is 109mm without pressing or extending between each two ends. Any time the damper is removed or dissembled, this distance should be checked to ensure proper operation of the steering damper. Measure the length of the outer spring within 13mm from the adjustable collar to the bottom of the damper when finished.
b. Pop the cap of the damper onto the standoff ball on the steering servo horn.
c. Pop the tie-end onto the standoff ball on to the steering mount to complete the steering system.
Low Speed Handling Setting
If the bike will not run straight at low speed, reset the length of the steering turnbuckle to 109mm or re-fill the oil inside the damper with lower grade oil (Initial set up of oil: #400)
High Speed Handling Setting
If you find the front wheel is getting vibration or unstable at high speed, re-fill the damper oil with higher grade oil (Initial set up: #400), this will improve the high speed handling, but may effect the low speed cornering or stability.

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1/5 FM-1e DUCATI 999R R/C EP MOTORBIKE

1/5 FM-1e DUCATI 999R R/C EP MOTORBIKE

INSTALLING THE ELECTRIC MOTOR AND ELECTRIC SPEED CONTROLLER
a. Remove the bike’s front suspension by disassembling the “E” clips on the steering shaft.
b. Remove the shaft that holds the front steering mount and front fork shocks.
c. Lift the entire set and remove it from the motorbike’s assembly.
d. Tighten the motor pinion with hexagon screw
e. Install the motor mount and motor unit onto the side chassis by treading two internal hexagon screws through the washers and motor mount.
f. Use a thin sheet of paper and insert it between both gears to set proper gear mesh.
g. Tape the E.S.C. to the top of the battery tray by using the supplied double-sided tape.
h. Install the E.S.C. switch onto the left side of the chassis frame by using a piece of appropriated double-sided tape
i. Solder the E.S.C. black/red wire to the terminals on the motor. (Note: The red wire to the positive terminal, black wire to the negative terminal)
j. Reassemble the front suspension assembly

INSTALLING THE RADIO GEAR
a. Mount the steering servo on the servo tray. (Note that its output shaft should be centered between the chassis frames.)
b. Install the receiver on the receiver tray by using double-sided tape.
c. Thread the receiver antenna/wire through the antenna tube, and then press-fit the antenna tube on the receiver tray
d. Properly plug the connection/wire into the receiver: steering servo connector/wire into the channel 1 slot, BEC power connector/wire into channel 2 slot.
e. The assembly diagram for the entire radio control system is shown.

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Stratomaster Ultra Horizon XL Owner’s Manual

Stratomaster Ultra Horizon XL Owner’s Manual

The Stratomaster Ultra Horizon XL is a digital multifunction instrument designed for use in ultralight, microlight, experimental and homebuilt aircraft as well as any aircraft that permit use of such instrumentation under general or special operating permits.

The Ultra is designed around a transflective 5.7” monochrome display panel with a white LED backlight. Unlike current technology color displays, the monochrome panel is suited for operation in direct sunlight making it the only viable choice for many small aircraft applications. The panel does not need to be shaded and is capable of producing a clearly readable image even in very bright light conditions, with the light falling directly onto the panel.

The Ultra Horizon XL replaces the following previous product releases:
1) Stratomaster Ultra L
2) Stratomaster Ultra X
3) Stratomaster Ultra HL and HX
4) Stratomaster Ultra RL (Rotorcraft).

The Ultra Horizon XL is a fully user configurable panel that can be used as primary flight instrumentation display, engine monitor or both. The Ultra provides two display pages, each page can be configured by the user, choosing from a selection of more than 50 instruments and display items. Each item on the screen may be placed where the user wants it and most instruments provide several different display options. For example you can choose between analog altimeter and a tape based altimeter amongst other choices.

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Model 1250 Wheel Balancer

Model 1250 Wheel Balancer

General safety recommendations
- The wheel balancing machine should only be used by duly authorized and trained personnel.
- The wheel balancing machine should not be used for purposes other than those described in the instruction manual.
- Under no way should the wheel balancing machine be modified except for those modifications made explicitly by the manufacturer.
- Never remove the safety devices. Any work on the machine should only be carried out by specialist personnel.
- Avoid using strong jets of compressed air for cleaning.
- Use alcohol to clean plastic panels or shelves (AVOID LIQUIDS CONTAINING SOLVENTS).
- Before starting the wheel balancing cycle, make sure that the wheel is securely locked on the adapter.
- The machine operator should avoid wearing loose clothing. Make sure that unauthorized personnel do not approach the machine during the spin cycle.
- Avoid placing objects inside the base as they could impair the correct operation of the machine

Commissioning
Anchoring
The machine can operate on any flat non resilient floor.
Make sure that the machine rests solely on the three support points provided (fig.2a).
It is advisable to secure the system to the ground using the specific feet (see Figure 2a) in the event of continual use with wheels weighing over 75 lbs.

Electrical connection
The machine is supplied with a 110V grounding plug.
The supply voltage is given on the machine nameplate. It cannot be changed.
Connection to the mains should always be made by expert personnel.
The machine should not be started up without proper grounding.
Connection to the mains should be through a slow acting safety switch rated at 8 A (115V). See enclosed layout.

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2001-2005 Ducati Monster S4/R

2001-2005 Ducati Monster S4/R

1 Remove the seat.
2 Prop the fuel tank in the upright position.
3 Remove the airbox lid by disconnecting the two hooks on either side of the airbox (Fig A). Unscrew the bolts on either side of the rear of the airbox or just lift up to remove the air box.
4 Disconnect the two hoses going to the airbox
5 Remove the velocity stacks by turning them counter-clockwise and lifting up (Fig B)
6 Remove the bolt on the underside of the airbox (Fig. C).
7 The airbox can now be moved out of the way. To totally remove the airbox disconnect the wire connectors from the front of the airbox
8 Unplug the stock connectors from the injectors (Fig D). Release the spring clips to remove each connector.
**Do not discard spring clip.
**Do not mix up the stock front and rear connectors
9 Plug the connectors from the PCIII inline of the stock connectors (Fig E). The ORANGE colored wires from the PCIII go to the front cylinder and the YELLOW colored wires go to the rear cylinder. Reinstall spring clips
Align the PCIII connector to the stock wiring harness as shown below. The square edges of the PCIII connector align with the spring clip side of the stock wiring harness.

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2007 Ducati 1098 Installation Instructions

2007 Ducati 1098 Installation Instructions

1. Remove the seat and solo cover.
2. Remove the cover around the fuel tank (Fig. A).
3 Remove the fuel tank
4. Remove the inner fairing cover on the right hand side (Fig. B)
5. Lay the PCIII in the tail section temporarily.
6 Route the PCIII harness through the hole in the tail section (Fig. C)
7. Route the PCIII along the right hand side of the subframe . Secure the PCIII harness to the subframe using 2 of the large supplied zip ties (Fig. D)
8 Unplug the stock wiring harness from the rear injector (Fig. E) This injector is located on top of the air box. To remove the connector you must first remove the spring clip. This is best done with a pick or small screw-driver
9 Plug the YELLOW colored wires from the PCIII in-line of the stock wiring harness and rear injector (Fig. F). Make sure to reinstall the spring clip on the stock connector.
10 Use 1 of the small supplied zip ties to secure this connection to the fuel line. Make this connection as compact as possible.
11 Unplug the stock wiring harness from the front injector (Fig G). This connection is very difficult to access. It is best to get to thru the front of the bike directly above the radiator. Figure G was taken from the front of the bike inside the right hand fairing and above the radiator.

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2004-2007 Ducati ST3/ST4 Heli Bars Installation Instructions

2004-2007 Ducati ST3/ST4 Heli Bars Installation Instructions

Heli Bars are designed to safely increase your riding comfort, however it is imperative that these instructions be followed to ensure correct installation. Failure to follow these instructions could result in improper installation and create a dangerous control situation. If you have questions about installation call Heli Modified, Inc. at 1-800-859-4642.

NOTE: Heli Bars for the ST3 and ST4 are designed to utilize the factory bars and replace the stock mounting lugs only. Remove the front brake master cylinder from the right handlebar. It is NOT necessary remove any other controls or grips.

1: A. Loosen clutch banjo bolt at the clutch master cylinder just enough to rotate the banjo fitting forward 3/8”(measured at the bottom of the steel fitting where the rubber line begins). Refer to PHOTO#3 for angle assistance. Re-tighten.
B. Repeat step A on the front brake banjo fitting at the master cylinder and reposition. Loosen the front brake hold down strap bolted to the front of the lower triple clamp. Loosen the rubber grommet from it’s stock position and slide down about
1”. Pull the line up and re-tighten the hold down strap. Refer to photo #2.
2. Loosen and remove the four screws (6mm w/5mm hex head) that attach the bars to the mounting lugs. Place a rag around the bars and controls and rest them on the fairing.
3. Carefully remove the top triple clamp. Gain access to the steering stem pinch bolt by removing the black forward tank cover.
4.Remove the left and right factory bar lugs from the fork tubes.
5. Slide the left and right Heli Bar lugs over the fork tubes. Slide them down as far as they will go until they hit the fork tube taper. The left and right Heli Bar lugs are easy to identify. The risers are positioned outside the fork tubes and the Heli logos can be read from the saddle.

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Installation of Chain and Sprocket Set

Installation of Chain and Sprocket Set

Installation and Maintenance Brief
• In this document you will learn how to install and maintain your new Sum Of All Parts chain and sprockets.
• You will also learn how to maximize the value of your new performance product
• And finally- you will learn how to maintain a chain and sprocket set properly for maximum return on your investment.

Overview
There are many pieces to a drivetrain system- and it is only as strong as it’s weakest link so all are important.
Below are some of the components and Vocabulary
• CHAIN- the chain is the primary component in a late model sportbike drivetrain. The chain is normally made of high strength steel with tensile strength ranging from 2000 pounds to over 15,000 pounds. The Chain consists of Side Plates, inner plates, X-rings and links
• Rear Sprocket- performance sprockets are made of 7075 Billet Aluminum and come in a range of sizes specific for your bike. It is the larger of the two sprockets.
• Front Sprocket- made of High Strength, Low Alloy Steel and normally ranging from 13 to 18 teeth in size. Normally GOLD or BLACK in color. The front sprocket is usually attached to the engine and attached with a 32mm nut.
• Links- all chains come with either a rivet, clip or screw-type link.
• Tools- you will need common metric hand tools to install a chain and sprocket set.
• Specialty tools- some Chain and sprocket sets require specialty tools, especially those requiring a rivet style link.
• Chain lube- lubricates the links of the chain, all chains (even the quality X-ring chains we sell) require frequent chain lube to last the 20,000+ miles they are capable of.
• Final Drive Ratio- the final drive ratio is complex but essentially it means that for every ONE revolution of the REAR sprocket, the front sprocket must revolve X.XX times. The HIGHER the X.XX number, the lower the gearing and the faster the bike will accelerate (up to a point) Most modern sportbikes have a FDR between 2.5 and 3.5

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Air-Cooled Aircraft Engine Cylinders

Air-Cooled Aircraft Engine Cylinders

The hairpin valve springs pictured to the left were possibly pioneered by Salmson in 1911, and later used not only on British single-cylinder racing motorcycle engines, but also by Ferrari and others into the 1950s. This use was a response to the same problem that led to desmodromic valves at Ducati, Norton (test only) and Mercedes - namely the fatigue of coil springs from “ringing”. Hairpin springs ran cool because they were exposed, and they were less subject to fatigue. They could also be changed without engine disassembly.

Around 1964 cleaner steels produced by vacuum remelting became available in quantity, making possible the manufacture of highly fatigue-resistant spring wire. Previous wire was made from electric furnace steel - then the cleanest available. Vacuum remelted steel wire made desmo and hairpins redundant. Today Ducati engineers respond to the question “Why still desmo?” much as Bosch engineers did to the 1945 question “why direct injection when carbs were so much simpler?”. They said that once they’d started down that road, it was simpler to continue rather than start over with another technology.

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2000 Ducati Monster 900 Installation Instructions

2000 Ducati Monster 900 Installation Instructions

1 Remove the seat.
2 Lift fuel tank.
3 Unplug connector from ECU (Fig. A).
4 Plug male connector from PCIII into ECU (Fig. B).
5 Plug female connector from PCIII into male connector from original harness (Fig. C).
6 Run PCIII cable under fuel tank and along frame rail to the area under the seat.
7 Mount PCIII unit to rear most area under seat using provided self adhesive velcro (Fig. D).

PCIII user’s guide.
Adjusting Your Power Commander
Your Power Commander has been programmed with a base map for your application. You can adjust the base map or install an alternate map using your computer. Please refer to the supplied CD-Rom for more information. You can also adjust your Power Commander using the face plate buttons as described below.

NOTE: On some models, the injectors are powered down shortly after turning the ignition on. To send a map, adjust the throttle position or adjust the buttons you will need to use the Power Adaptor (#66116001 or 76423001). Plug the power adapter up to the Power Commander. Then plug the 9 pin serial cable to the other side of the power adapter (see figure)

Get pdf 2000 Ducati Monster 900 Installation Instructions

Ducati Monster Bobbed License Plate / Signal Relocation Bracket - Redpoint Racing

Ducati Monster Bobbed License Plate / Signal Relocation Bracket - Redpoint Racing

The relocation bracket is designed to fit all Ducati Monsters within the year ranges of 2000-2004. It may fit other years as well, but I cannot guarantee an exact fit as minor changes have been done throughout the years. The bracket is designed to replace the stock tail light/turn signal/license plate assembly and the rearmost section of the frame on which the stock assembly mounts. It is assumed that the sub frame has already been removed.

Warning: Cutting or modifying the frame in any way may cause damage to the motorcycle and affect the performance and/or safety. I do not condone or endorse the cutting of the frame or the installation of non-stock components on the motorcycle which may be in violation of local or state laws. Please check with your local authorities as to the legality of installing these components before proceeding.

Parts
The relocation bracket comes with three pieces which should be assembled as desired prior to installation on the bike. The turn signal bracket and the tail light bracket are separate as to allow the maximum amount of flexibility in the setup for your bike. If you have integrated turn signals or tail lights, you can leave off the parts that are unnecessary to further clean up the appearance of the bike after installation.

Assembly
Assemble the parts as shown below with the main bracket on the bottom, then the turn signal bracket, and then the tail light bracket. Screw them together with the provided button head allen screws and nylon insert lock nuts. Insert the screws through the bottom and attach the nuts on top of the bracket to maintain a clean look from the bottom of the bracket

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Ducati Electronic Jet Kit Instructions

Ducati Electronic Jet Kit Instructions

Thank you for choosing the Techlusion Electronic Jet Kit, the TFI. The TFI is usable for fuel injected Ducati’s ** . This product is a perfect fit for stock bikes with exhaust and intake mods. It is also capable of handling the fuel needs of cubic inch kits, light cams, and a variety of head porting. This is an Electronic Jet Kit. Like jet kits in the past, the more you modify, the more responsibility you take in getting your fuel curve right. Going to www.dobeckperformance.com will help you obtain better high horsepower tuning.

TOOLS REQUIRED
This is about a 60-minute install time for non-Testastretta models. **
The tools needed to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
The tools needed to remove your seat, fuel tank and/or side cover (if necessary).
The tools needed to gain access to the injectors (located at/or near the throttle bodies on the intake). Last but not least a small screwdriver.

1. Before installing the TFI you must first disconnect the negative lead from the battery.
2. Determine a location for the TFI unit. Suggested locations are as follows: Under the seat or behind a side cover.
3. The TFI comes with a harness with injector connectors that match the factory injector connectors. There is no order to hook up the TFI harness to the factory harness just make sure the original factory connector goes to its’ original cylinder.
4. Locate the factory fuel injectors (see owners manual if you are not sure).
5. Disconnect the factory injector connectors from the fuel injectors and replace with the TFI injector connectors from the TFI unit, basically unhook the factory injector connector and plug the matching TFI connector (female) to the injector and then connect the factory injector connector to the TFI connector that simulates the injector (male). It does not matter which harness from the TFI hooking up to each cylinder.
It is a good idea to make sure there is a little slack in the harness to prevent engine vibration from damaging/breaking a wire on the connectors.
6. Connect the TFI ground lead to the negative terminal of the battery along with the factory ground lead.
7. With the rubber plug removed from the TFI, turn the motorcycle key switch to the “ON” position. As the bikes electrical system goes through initial start up mode you might see LED’s flashing on the TFI, this is normal.
8. Start the motorcycle. This unit is programmed to not add fuel at idle, this will cause all the LED’s to flash at idle, and this is normal. By just raising the engine rpm above 1300 rpm the green led should be steady.

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DUCATI MONSTER S4 Owners Manual

DUCATI MONSTER S4 Owners Manual

Hearty welcome among Ducati fans! Please accept out best compliments for choosing a Ducati motorcycle. We think you will ride your Ducati motorcycle for long journeys as well as short daily trips. Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A wishes you smooth and enjoyable riding. We are steadily doing are best to improve our “Technical Assistance” service. For this reason, we recommend you to strictly follow the indications given in this manual, especially for motorcycle running-in. In this way, your Ducati motorbike will surely give you unforgettable emotions.

Enjoy your ride!
Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A. declines any liability whatsoever for any mistakes incurred in drawing up this manual. The information contained herein is valid at the time of going to print. Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A. reserves the right to make any changes required by the future development of the above-mentioned product.

For your safety, as well as to preserve the warranty, reliability and worth of your motorcycle, use original Ducati spare parts only.
Warning
This manual forms an integral part of the motorcycle and - if the motorcycle is resold - must always be handed over to the new owner

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Stratmosphere HyperBoost Valve Installation instructions

Stratmosphere HyperBoost Valve Installation instructions

What’s included with your package:
• One HyperBoost diverter valve
• Two medium sized hose clamps
• One small hose clamp
• One instruction sheet (you are reading it)

Tools required for your installation:
• A medium sized flat-blade screwdriver
• Tin snips
• Regular or needle nose pliers
• A bit of motor oil or vegetable oil

Notes about this document:
• Shown is the replacement of a valve in a 2001-2002 Audi TT 225hp model. Most of what is shown here is applicable to other 1.8T or single-turbo models. See the end of this document for Adjustable instructions.

Step 1- Remove motor cover (Audi TT)
Two tough tasks on this step. Let’s remove your cover if you have a TT (figure 1). Just twist the two screws 90 degrees counterclockwise. Then lift up the cover (figure 2). The cover slides onto two horizontal tabs in the back section of the motor.
Step 2- Remove hoses from OEM valve
The clamps for the top “nipple” and the large side nozzles are attached with single-use clamps usually (figure 3). You will have to use needle-nose or tin snips to remove the single-use clamps. Hopefully these images help you see what must be done. In figure 4 you can see where the OEM diverter valve is located.

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Audi TT V-Flow Intake Install Instructions

Audi TT V-Flow Intake Install Instructions

Start with your Phillips head screw driver and remove the three screws on top of your battery cover. Then remove the battery cover from the car. Firmly grasp the plug on top of your MAF sensor unplugging it. Lay the plug back away from the intake system. Using your Phillips head screwdriver loosen the hose clamp next to the MAF housing.

You will notice a hose with a 90 degree bend and a small plastic ring around the end of it snapped into place at the bottom of the factory air box. Firmly squeeze the top and the bottom of that ring squeezing together and pull the hose off of the factory air box. Pull the hose back and tuck it back out of the work space

Grasp the hose connecting to the MAF housing and remove it from the MAF housing. Let it rest up against the MAF housing

Take the 10mm socket, extension, and wrench. Remove the two bolts that secure the factory air box to the car. One is behind the negative battery terminal and the other is at the opposite corner of the air box, in front of the driver’s side strut tower.

Next you will remove the factory air box. First lift up on the side closest to the engine, and then lift up on the side closest to the fender. As you lift up on the fender side you should notice a large rubber peg slide out of a hole in the fender lining, If your car has the fresh air duct that was attached to the air box running along side the inside of the fender, you will notice that the air box should come separated from this fresh air duct.

If your car has this fresh air duct, take your 10mm socket, remove the nut that secures the factory fresh air duct to the side of the fender. Then remove the short piece of ducting.

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42Draft Designs VW M10×1 Oil Pressure Relocation Kit (42-004) Installation Instructions

42Draft Designs VW M10×1 Oil Pressure Relocation Kit (42-004) Installation Instructions

1. Locate the oil filter flange on your motor and find the stock oil pressure sender. To access this location fully, certain emissions devices or the intake manifold may need to be removed. Remove the wiring harness from the stock oil pressure sender and move aside. Using a 24mm deep socket, unscrew the sender.
2. Install the included M10×1 adaptor in the stock oil pressure sender port. Start threads by hand and tighten snug using an open end wrench. Do not over tighten this adaptor! Install one end of the 12” extension hose and use an open end wrench to tighten.
3. With relocation block in hand, thread the stock VW sender into the port labeled M10. Tighten snug using a 24mm deep socket. Thread your aftermarket oil pressure sender into the other port labeled M10. Tighten snug using an open end wrench.
4. Install the assembled relocation block on the end of the 12” extension hose. Tighten snug using an open end wrench.
5. Decide on an appropriate mounting location and measure out your ground wire. The ground wire should attach to a chassis ground or the negative terminal on the battery. Cut your wire to length, strip both ends and crimp on the included ring terminals. The small terminal should install on the relocation block. Use a 9/64th Allen wrench to remove and tighten the ground screw.
6. Reconnect the stock oil pressure sender wiring harness. If the harness will no longer reach, pull more wire from the loom or extend the wiring. To extend the wiring, simply cut the stock wire 3” from the connector and solder in more wire. You can use a piece of the included 18 gauge ground wire. Be sure to solder this connection and use shrink wrap to seal the connection.
7. Connect your sender wire to your aftermarket oil pressure sender using the appropriate wire and terminal.
8. Using the included zip tie, secure the relocation block in your desired location. This kit is designed to be universal to all VW/Audi motors. Therefore, we don’t have recommended locations for any application. Use common sense and secure your relocation block in a logical location. (read the third warning above)
9. Replace any stock parts removed during installation. Start motor and watch carefully for leaks. The system may take a few days to bleed any air out of the sending units. Odd gauge behavior is a sign of air bubbles in the sending unit. Air is naturally bled from the system over time.

Get pdf 42Draft Designs VW M10×1 Oil Pressure Relocation Kit (42-004) Installation Instructions

Sniper X1 Vehicle Security System Installation Manual

Sniper X1 Vehicle Security System Installation Manual

With the alarm disarmed, switch the ignition ON. Within 10 seconds press the valet switch 6 times, after 2 seconds, the siren will chirp for 2 seconds and then the system enters into the code learning mode. Within another 10 seconds, press any button of the first transmitter, the siren will chirp for 1 seconds and lights flash twice to confirm the code has been learned. Apply the same procedure within next 10 seconds for the second transmitter. The system will leave the code learning mode after finishing learning the code for 2 transmitters. If two transmitters are not programmed, the ignition is switched OFF or the time exceeds the 10-second programming time, the system will leave the code learning mode.

Programming Features
Enter programming mode:
1. With the drivers door OPEN, turn the ignition ON then OFF
2. Press valet switch 3 times
3. Wait for siren to sound extended chirp to confirm system is in programming mode
4. Press the valet switch the same number of times as the option number you want to program, waiting for the corresponding number of chirps after each press. eg. to program “Channel 3 Output” press the button 6 times as it is option 6 in the programming table
5. To program this option as described in Column 2 (default) of the table of programming features turn the ignition ON and wait for 2 seconds until siren sounds an extended chirp. To program as described in Column 2 turn the ignition ON then OFF and wait for 2 seconds until siren sounds an extended chirp.
6. The system has now left programming mode, to program another feature repeat steps 1 to 5

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Audi 1.8 l 125 kW 5-Valve Turbo - First ULEV Turbo Gasoline Engine

Audi 1.8 l 125 kW 5-Valve Turbo - First ULEV Turbo Gasoline Engine

In an age when there is growing tension between customer expectations of high engine performance, low fuel consumption and compliance with the legal requirements on the emission of airborne pollution, the ability of a vehicle to meet the most stringent emission standards is becoming an increasingly important aspect of its market appeal.

The 1.8 l, 5-valve turbo engine which Audi launched in 1994 represented an emissions concept which, thanks to its innovative close-coupled catalytic converter, provided an ideal basis for further development to an engine meeting the US ULEV emission standard, as the current engine does.

Its configuration as a ULEV concept necessitated the blanket optimisation of all components which influence the exhaust emissions. The pistons and injectors were improved in order to reduce untreated emissions. The main potential was tapped by incorporating intake camshaft adjustment and a cascade catalytic converter for emissions after treatment, together with extensive measures for the engine management system. The overall concept has enabled Audi to become the first car manufacturer to offer an exhaust-gas turbocharged gasoline engine that meets the US ULEV emission standard.

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VATS / PASSLOCK / TRANSPONDER Universal Alarm Bypass Module

VATS / PASSLOCK / TRANSPONDER Universal Alarm Bypass Module

This module lets you bypass virtually any type of vehicle factory anti-theft system on the market today to remotely start your vehicle without permanently disabling the vehicle factory theft system.

In 1985, General Motors came out with their first Vehicle Anti Theft System known as VATS which uses a resistor pellet in the key. Since this time, other manufacturers have been following suit with their own versions. Most use some form of a resistor in the key. Others use a transponder — a small device in the key which can communicate a high security code to the vehicle upon demand.

Contents:
1 VATS/Passlock/Transponder module
1 8 position wire harness
1 Transponder loop w/connector
2 Cable Ties
1 Instruction booklet
2 Double-stick foam tape

Determine which type system you have in your vehicle. If unsure — follow the chart on the previous page to determine the system you have. There are several types of systems as outlined below: General Motors VATS and PASSLOCK I and PASSLOCK II theft systems. For these, you will be required to dial-in a resistor value which matches the one on your security system. The method is described on the following pages for each type system using the dip switches and the variable resistor. The variable resistor is a 10 turn potentiometer which can be dialed up from zero ohms to 1,000 ohms.

SATURN vehicles simply hook up to the Universal Alarm Bypass Module as shown on page 9.
TRANSPONDER systems require a transponder (or extra key) to be used with our system. Follow the directions on page 10 and 11

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Volvo V70 2006: The Weekly Driver

Volvo V70 2006: The Weekly Driver

The 2006 V70 R (station wagon) further adds to the already nice Volvo overall package with its substantial cargo room. Yet, the V70 finds itself in a tough crowd among the industry’s fastest growing sales segment, the premium midsized class. It includes the Mercedes Benz E-Class, the Audi all-road Quattro, Cadillac CTS and Infiniti G35, among others. One of four model options including the XC70 (raised suspension), the V70 features a 2.5-liter turbocharged, 300-horsepower 5-cylinder engine with a six-speed automatic transmission. The Volvo V70 has faster competitors, but with its AWD features, it feels particularly secure during any task and it has enough power and acceleration to get the job done.

It’s Volvo’s trademark steering and handling that quickly impresses. It rained periodically and there was intermittent fog during one 200-mile round-trip test drive that begin in late-morning overcast conditions and concluded under ominous night-driving conditions. Whether entering swooping freeway entrance ramps, changing lanes at high-speed or maneuvering in the varying close-knit city and freeway traffic, the V70 performed admirably. Inclement weather — let’s say winter conditions in Sweden — can deter many drivers, whether they’re in Scandinavia or Lake Tahoe. But the secure feel of the V70, particularly with its AWD, should calm drivers’ pending nerves.

The V70 has a nicely designed interior, including angularly divided console and instrumentation panels. The AM/FM, CD player configuration is clean, well-contoured and features functionally clean dials and controls. Yet, the interior features, while attractive, well-constructed and nicely situated, also get lower-than-expected grades in three categories. The instrumentation backlighting is not sufficient after nightfall, primarily because the silver lettering and numbering is hard to see against the blue background. I kept trying to increase brightness level when it was already at its max.

Two other concerns: the side-view mirror control, positioned on the driver’s inside door panel, has an awkward mechanical formula. And likewise, the rear cargo area pull-down security cover is difficult to maneuver into place on its odd-shaped hinges - even when using two hands. Still, the V70 has wide range of fine features — Bi-Xenon headlights to fully contoured leather seats, superior head and foot room in the front and rear seats to a tilt and telescopic three-spoke steering wheel with a race-car tight feel.

Get pdf Volvo V70 2006: The Weekly Driver

Sy-Klone Series 9000 Air Precleaner for Mack Truck Models MR, & LE, and Volvo Truck Models WXLL42, & WX64 Installation

Sy-Klone Series 9000 Air Precleaner for Mack Truck Models MR, & LE, and Volvo Truck Models WXLL42, & WX64 Installation

This bulletin is designed to improve the air intake performance and extend the air filter life on garbage refuse trucks by removing the Vacuator style dust cups and installing a Sy-Klone Series 9000 Air Precleaner. Your trucks will experience increased uptime and reduced operating costs.

Perform a complete air intake system inspection as follows:
1. Check the air inlet connections from the engine turbocharger to the air filter housing. Make sure that all of the clamps are secure, and that the rubber elbow and hump hose is pliable and not cracked, or otherwise damaged, allowing unfiltered air into the engine.
2. Inspect the air cleaner housing and end cap to make sure there are no dents, holes, cracks, distortions, or damaged gaskets. Repair or replace as needed.
3. Visually inspect the air filter restriction gauge condition. If the gauge appears to be damaged in any way, replace it. At a minimum replace it once every year.
4. Visually inspect the connections between the air filter housing, and air inlet extension piping. If there are rubber elbows or rubber hump hoses involved, make sure that they are pliable and are not cracked or otherwise damaged. Check to make sure the clamps that hold them in place are securely tightened.

Air filter element inspection procedure:
1. Remove the outer (primary) air filter element and inspect it to make sure the seals on the clean end are sealing correctly and there is no dirt trail showing where contaminants have entered onto the secondary filter.
2. Remove the safety air filter element. Do a visual check of the safety element. If there is dirt or debris on the element (outside) of the filter, replace it.
3. Carefully inspect the filter elements to make sure that they have not collapsed, bent or distorted. If these conditions are found, repair the system as needed to prevent the same damage to the new filter being installed.
4. Check the color of the primary filter element. If the element is black or has exhaust soot on it this is an indication that exhaust gas is entering into the air intake system. If exhaust gases are entering the air intake, find out where the exhaust gases are entering the air intake and make immediate repairs.
5. When the primary filter element is replaced, make sure you tighten down the filter housing end cap evenly so that the end cap is firmly sealed. On air filter elements that form the air filter end cap, make sure the outer end cap seal is in good shape. This will eliminate the possibility of dirty air entering the air filter housing through the end cap area.

Installation procedures (refer to diagrams on back of this bulletin):
1. Remove all parts from box and make sure you have the Sy-Klone Air Precleaner and clamp. Check the installation kit box, if required for your installation, for the following: (2) DVP-3930 Vacuator valve plugs, (1) 66070 adapter and clamp.
2. Raise cab on truck.
3. Remove the Vacuator valves from the air filter housing and the inline separator, and install the DVP-3930 Vacuator valve plugs in place of the Vacuator valves, and tighten the nut on the plug. If the Vacuator valve is missing, simply insert the DVP-3930 plug in to the hole were the Vacuator valve attaches and tighten nut.
4. Install new primary air filter element.
5. Remove the air inlet rain cap. Measure the distance from the inlet pipe to the bed overhang. Make sure there is 10” of clearance between the top of the inlet pipe and the bottom of the bed overhang. If there is not 10” of clearance, cut down inlet pipe until 10” of clearance is available.
6. The Sy-Klone Air Precleaner will fit directly on the 6” air inlet pipe. If the air inlet pipe is 7”, install the 66070 adapter and tighten clamp on the adapter.

Get pdf Sy-Klone Series 9000 Air Precleaner for Mack Truck Models MR, & LE, and Volvo Truck Models WXLL42, & WX64 Installation

The 2.7-litre V6 Biturbo Design and Function Self-study Programme 198

The 2.7-litre V6 Biturbo Design and Function Self-study Programme 198

Turbocharged engines are already something of a tradition at AUDI. The task now facing AUDI’s engineers was to develop a worthy successor to the 5-cylinder turbocharged engine. One of the key development goals for the turbocharged engine was to achieve a good level of dynamic response, particularly at the bottom end of the rev band.

The goal of AUDI’s engineers was to realise a high “basic torque level“ and a torque characteristic that rises in direct proportion to engine speed to its peak. The term “basic torque level“ describes the torque which is immediately available when the throttle is opened (e.g. at part throttle or in overrun)

This engine will also be used in the Audi S4 and Audi A6.
The engine used in the A6 has a comfortoriented setup, which means that it has different torque and power output.
This effect was principally achieved by modifying the software configuration of the engine control unit.
A tuning protective device prevents the S4 engine control unit being installed in the A6!
This prevents misuse, which can result in damage to the drivetrain! An auxiliary heater is not available as an option for the S4 and the A6, due to the constraints on space.

Get pdf The 2.7-litre V6 Biturbo Design and Function Self-study Programme 198

Volvo 850 series, 1998-2000 S/V/70 and 1998-2004 HID conversion installation instructions

Volvo 850 series, 1998-2000 S/V/70 and 1998-2004 HID conversion installation instructions

1. Take the kit out of the box and lay everything out. You can install either the ballasts or bulbs first but typically it is easier to install the bulbs first.
2. Remove the access cap from the rear of your headlight housing as shown.
3. Drill a hole in the center of the cap as shown. If you use a hole saw that will be all you need. If you use the small drill bit you will need to use your dremel to cut a 1″ hole. You may want to use some sand paper just to smooth the edges you have cut.
4. Some of the bulbs come with adaptors that some other cars require (shown by the blue arrow). This Volvo installation does not require them. Take your plyers and cut them off. This will allow you to remove the base of the bulb case later on (shown by the red arrow).
5. Feed the AMP connector ends of the bulbs through the hole from the inside out and seat as shown. Seal the provided 1″ gasket in the hole you have made. You should have two connectors coming out of the same side as the bulb that will eventually connect to the OEM harness- these will be connected later. Leave the bulb in the case for now.
6. Now you can get a feel for how much length you’ll need to connect the ballasts to the wiring harness that is currently going through the headlight cap. Find a place to mount the ballast that best suits your needs. Here are some examples of where people have mounted theirs. A common place is on the battery or just by it behind the headlight on the drivers side. On the passenger side some people mount it to the ECU box or again just behind the headlight housing. One person mounted it just to the passenger side of the fan shrowd as shown. You can use the provided zip ties (more may be needed depending on your mounting location), the double sided tape (provided), or screws or nuts and bolts (not provided) to mount the ballast to a flat surface.

Get pdf Volvo 850 series, 1998-2000 S/V/70 and 1998-2004 HID conversion installation instructions

Using AMSOIL in engines with possible sludge issues

Using AMSOIL in engines with possible sludge issues

To inform AMSOIL customers that operating conditions of certain engine designs are re- ported to be “abnormal”. According to Consumer Reports, the engines identified in this bulletin appear to be prone to sludge. The use of AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils at regular drain intervals established by the vehicle manufacturer will reduce the likelihood of sludge formation, provide the best protection, and insure that the vehicle manufacturer honors your extended warranty.

ISSUES:
The August 2005 issue of Consumer Reports identified engines from four different automobile manufacturers that are candidates for possible sludge problems. To satisfy customers, Audi/Volkswagen, Lexus/Toyota, and Saab have all extended their warranties to 8-years/unlimited mileage. Chrysler/Dodge is the only manufacturer without an extended warranty program and handles claims on a case-by-case basis.

Provisions of the extended engine warranty coverage include changing the oil within the OEM recommended interval and maintaining documentation for proof.

TECHNICAL DISCUSSION:
Sludge formation is caused by the oil being subjected to abnormal operating conditions such as high heat, excessive blow-by gasses, glycol contamination or poor crankcase ventilation to name a few. Sludge formation, if severe enough, can block the oil passages and oil pump pick up screen, resulting in oil starvation.

AMSOIL Synthetic Oils have better oxidation resistance, detergency, and dispersancy than conventional petroleum oils. AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils do a better job of resisting sludge. However, they will not stop sludge formation under abnormal engine operating conditions. The use of synthetic oil for the best possible engine protection is endorsed by Consumer Reports.

RECOMMENDATION:
Purchasers of used vehicles listed in Table A should take extra precautions to protect their purchases by reviewing maintenance records or requesting an internal engine inspection prior to purchase. Follow regular OEM recommended drain intervals with the appropriate AMSOIL XL Synthetic Motor Oil for Audi/VW and Saab.

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Dearborn Protocol Adapter 4 Plus (DPA 4 Plus) Installation and User Manual

Dearborn Protocol Adapter 4 Plus (DPA 4 Plus) Installation and User Manual

The DPA 4 Plus product is used to connect vehicle communication networks and personal computers (PCs). This allows programs written for the PC to retrieve pertinent vehicle information such as fault codes, as well as perform component level testing.

The adapter you have purchased is provided with an RP1210A-compliant interface and has been validated against the following OEM and component applications:
Allison DOC™
Bendix® ACOM
Caterpillar® Electronic Technician
Cummins® Insite™
Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link™
Detroit Diesel Reprogramming Station™
Eaton ServiceRanger
Freightliner ServiceLink
International® Diamond Logic Builder
International® InTune
International® Master Diagnostics
Mack and Volvo VCADS/PTT
Meritor-WABCO Toolbox
Vansco VMMS
ZF-Meritor TransSoft

Any application claiming RP1210A-compliance should work if the application and adapter both support the same protocol(s) and operating system(s).

The adapter you have purchased provides more protocol and standards support than any other commercially available diagnostic adapter.

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DDM HID Kit Install for Volvo S40

DDM HID Kit Install for Volvo S40

This is an install document for a High Intensity Discharge Kit for the Volvo S40. This is a fairly simple procedure and should take approximately 45 minutes to install.
Kit Details
DDM HID Kit including:
2 – Ballasts and Igniter assemblies
2 – HID Bulbs w/wire assemblies
2 – Ballast to Bulb connecting wires
2 – 3M Double sided adhesive tape

Installation Instructions
Caution – Be very careful working around HID lighting. These are very high voltage. Make sure the headlight is disconnected before working on the HID lighting system!
1. Find a good work area and remove the kit from the box. Make sure you have all the pieces
2. First you will need to remove the headlight assembly.
3. Remove the headlight holding pin. Set the pin aside.
4. Pull the headlight slightly out to the side and then forward.
5. Remove power connector by pushing down the tab and pull straight out.
6. Place the headlight on a soft surface to avoid any scratches.
7. Remove the back cover by releasing the metal retainers.
8. You will need to drill a hole in the back of the cover with the 1” drill bit.
9. Run the wires from the light bulb harness through the hole

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SeBCON II Installation and Adjustment Guide

SeBCON II Installation and Adjustment Guide

With the Frequency-Poti it’s possible to adjust the Solenoids frequency. Most Solenoids like a frequency from round about 15-30Hz. If you are not sure, leave this poti untouched. With a wrong adjusted rate you will get less boost or a trimmed working-range because the Solenoid can not handle a wrong rate.

Important: The Solenoid frequency is adjusted to 13Hz by default.
This is the best frequency for the Pierburg and iPd Turbo Controller Valve. You can order SeBCON with your favorite frequency in case you have not the ability to adjust SeBCON yourself. The adjustment range is from 5Hz to 60Hz.

Discription of the signals:
Throttle signal:
The throttle signal must be a ground signal. The Throttle-Switch and the RPM or the Overboost-Switch has to be activated (and you have to adjust a minimum amount of boost with the Boost or Overboost Poti), then the Boost or the Overboost LED should flash.
Load signal:
Signal between 0 and 12Volt,2Volt is 10% and10Volt is 100% Solenoid pulse wide. If the signal is duly and you have activated the Auto-function, the Boost LED should flash.
Knock signal:
The knock signal must be either a ground signal (less than 0.7Volt) or a +12Volt signal (greater than 10Volt). If the signal is duly, the Knocking LED should flash and you should not have any additional boost over stock.
Max-Load signal:
Signal must be between >0 and 12 Volt. The threshold is adjustable with the Max-Load Poti. Give the signal you wish to use on the Max-Load input and adjust the Poti in that way, that the Max- Load LED just begins flashs, this is the threshold on which SeBCON begins to lower the boost.
KL 1, ignition coil (RPM signal):
Activates the Auto and/or the RPM function at the adjusted threshold (rpm).

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1996-1999 VW/ Audi 1.8L AEB Engines Revised Camshaft Sprocket Bolt Torque

1996-1999 VW/ Audi 1.8L AEB Engines Revised Camshaft Sprocket Bolt Torque

Previously published service information regarding camshaft sprocket bolt torque specifications for the 1.8L Volkswagen/ Audi 1.8L AEB engines may have incorrectly listed the torque value at 74 ft.lbs.

The correct torque value for the camshaft sprocket bolt is 48 ft.lbs. (65 Nm).These cylinder heads are beginning to be seen in machine shops because many miles have accumulated since they were new. If the incorrect torque value is used,the result may be engine failure.Even if the bolt does not break after over-torquing, it is possible that all engine valves (20) will bend/break if the head bolts fail while engine is running (Figure 1, left).

Water Pump Coolant Leaks On 1990-2006
Suzuki Engines
The AERA Technical Committee says that water pump coolant leaks on all 1990-2006 Suzuki engines may be a normal part of the break-in cycle. Numerous water pumps have been returned to Suzuki under warranty due to leaks, however after testing these pumps they’ve been determined satisfactory for service.

Suzuki has determined that signs of coolant leakage at water pump weep holes are normal during break in. For a period of time some coolant will pass through the seal and leave green and white deposits around and below the weep hole (see Figure 2, above). This is not detrimental to the function of the water pump. There is however a limit to what is considered normal leakage, according to the company.

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