Auto Manual Resource: 03/21/10

Body Badge Installation

The badges are made from layers of foil and other materials, all covered with a pliable urethane clear “lens.” They are thin, not more than 1/16 inch thick, so they are very slick and appear to have been molded right into the painted surface of the body work. In comparison, the raised stock badges and aftermarket versions look rather crude. Since the badge colors match the various car colors perfectly, the integrated appearance of the badges is all the more striking. Depending on the color of your car and the color of the badge you chose, the end result could be very subtle and sophisticated or more striking. To avoid mistakes, please read these directions fully before beginning.

Required items:
• Xenit Adhesive remover from Stoner, or 3M Adhesive Remover available from your local auto store
• Waxed dental floss
• General purpose masking tape
• Soft cotton detailing towel
• Isopropyl Alcohol and cotton balls or alcohol swabs
• Optional: aftermarket finishing/detailing spray, we use Zaino’s Z-6.

Quick Installation Instructions
The adhesive of the badges cures better when the temperature is 70º or higher. It has been reports that installation can/has been done at lower temperatures with out any problems.
1. Clean the badge and sounding areas to remove all dirt, dust, oils, etc.
2. Remove the stock badges.
3. Clean the badge location by wiping with clean towel and isopropyl alcohol.
4. Remove the backing from the S Badge and apply the adhesive side to the clean, dry surface. Use a rolling manner (from bottom to top) to prevent air bubbles. Using caution contaminate the adhesive on the back of the emblem.
5. The assembly should remain about 70 degrees F for 72 to 96 hours before exposure to the outside.

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2002-UP Honda CRV Safari Bar Assembly Installation Instructions

STEP 1. Remove the contents from the box and check for any damage. Verify all parts against the parts list.
STEP 2. Read and understand instructions completely before beginning installation.
STEP 3. Determine passenger and driver mount brackets from figure above.
STEP 4. Remove the (16) push type retainers and (2) 6mm bolts from the lower splash shield. Remove plastic splash shield to gain access to mounting locations.
STEP 5. Locate the (4) 14mm holes in the lower radiator support. Attach the mount brackets using the (4) 1/2-13 x 1.00” hex head bolts, (4) 1/2” external-internal tooth lock washer, (4) 1/2” flat washer, (4) 1/2” lock washer, (4) 1/2-14 hex nuts, (2) 5/16-18 x 1.75” hex head bolts, (2) 5/16” lock washer, (2) 5/16” flat washers and (2) 5/16-18 flange lock nuts. Leave loose.
CAUTION: Wheels must be supported to support sub-frame to the unibody to avoid misalignment for re- attachment.
STEP 6. Install mount braces one side at a time. Remove the 14mm under carriage bolt and attach the mount brace using the existing 14mm bolt and supplied (1) 14mm lock washer and (1) 14mm flat washer per side.
STEP 7. Repeat for opposite side.
STEP 8. Temporarily attach Safari Bar using the supplied (2) 1/2-13 x 2.00” hex head bolts, (2) 1/2” lock washer and (2) 1/2” flat washer. Center and level. Hand tighten Safari Bar bolts. Tighten and torque mount brackets bolts only, leave 14mm mount brace bolts hand tight, and remove Safari Bar only.
STEP 9. Cut the plastic splash shield to accommodate the mount brackets and attachment of the Safari Bar. See cutting instructions for guidelines on cutting.
STEP 10. Re-install the splash shield, 6mm bolts and all push type retainers.
STEP 11. Re-attach Safari Bar using 1/2” fasteners previously removed. Center, level and torque fasteners to specifications below.

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS - (Recommendation only, sizes are approximate)
The template works best if placed on the bottom side of the splash shield (the side away from the vehicle). Locate two oval slots that measure 3/8” x 11/16”. Cut out templates and slot reference (leave slot reference attached to cut template) and place over the appropriate slots. Hold in place using masking tape. Position splash shield in place and verify templates are in correct location. Move if necessary. Drill 1/4” holes at the corners. Cut the splash shield from drilled hole to drilled hole. It may be necessary to use a straight edge to ensure a straight cut. Additional trimming may be required when splash shield is reinstalled.

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Honda Throttle Linkage Kit Instruction

Thank you for your purchase of the complete Honda engine linkage kit. This kit is designed to fit both the 120&160 engine platforms. The only difference you will find between the 120 and the 160 engine is the direction the cable adjustment block is installed on the engine block.

1. Remove the stamped factory linkage plate and related hardware.
2. Check your carburetor and confirm the throttle arm (black plastic molded arm on the top of the throttle shaft) is in good working condition.
3. Install the Linkage Bridge to your engine using the two supplied metric socket head bolts. A drop of thread locking compound on each bolt is recommended to prevent bolts from coming loose from vibration and harmonics.
4. Install the Cable Adjustment Block to the engine using the factory bolt that was removed in step 1.
5. Bolt the Linkage Arm to the Linkage Bridge using the supplied Shoulder Bolt. Use a small drop of thread locking compound on the threads.
6. The Throttle Stop Eccentric can now be bolted to the Linkage Bridge using the supplied button head bolt. Do Not fully tighten the bolt until the final step. This eccentric is used as a throttle stop to prevent broken or worn carburetor parts as well as to set wide open throttle to the best performance position.
7. Bend your Linkage Rod to fit from the Linkage Arm to the throttle arm on the carburetor. It is important this fits proper to prevent linkage failure. We have formed one end of the linkage rod to fit the Linkage Arm. Each application is slightly different and will require the user to complete the bending on the throttle arm end.
8. Now that the Linkage Rod is installed you can rotate the Throttle Stop Eccentric and tighten at wide open throttle or your desired throttle position.

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Honda S2000 Seat Belt Lock Installation

This product is to be used ONLY on the Honda S2000 and is intended to provide increased driver support when using the stock lap belt and shoulder harness. It is NOT to be used as a replacement for competition belts or at any event where 4 or 5-point restraint systems are required. This product uses an electro-magnet to activate the factory inertia-sensing mechanism built into the seat belt assembly. It does not alter the factory restraint system in any way and has no effect on the seat belt retractors or air bag system. It simply activates the “tilt” mechanism built into the seat belt, the one that normally kicks in only when you corner or brake very hard. Modifry’s Seat Belt Lock is relatively easy to install and can be quickly removed, leaving no trace it was there.

Installation
1. Prepare - Empty the trunk of anything breakable or that might get in the way of sitting in the trunk (really). Remove the spare tire access panel and the spare tire. Then slide and tilt the passenger seat as far forward as it will go. Note – I use the abbreviation “SBL” for the Seat Belt Lock, which is the black bracket with the electro-magnet attached.
2. Remove the access panel behind the passenger seat. Unsnap the screw covers on the two plastic hooks and then remove the screws. Carefully pull the panel out, starting at the bottom and working around the outer edge to release the clips that hold it in place.
3. Locate the accessory power socket wire harness. This wire loom goes under the glove box on the right. Pry apart the plastic (it’s split down the middle) and pull the black and white/red wires out in preparation for attaching the T-taps. If the two wires are not black and white/red STOP, you have the wrong wire loom.
4. Attach T-taps to both the black wire and the white/red wire. Make sure the wire is positioned in the groove of the metal part of the T-tap and close the pliers until the locking tab snaps closed. Here’s a photo using regular pliers (opened up to the wide-jaw position) to clamp the T-taps.
5. Plug in the SBL Control Box Wires as shown below. These are the SINGLE wires, not the “paired” zip cord wires. The SBL single black wire goes to the T-tap on the black wire and the SBL single red wire goes to the T-tap on the white/red wire.

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2003 Honda CR-V Fog Light Installation Instructions

The information in this installation instruction is intended for use only by skilled technicians who have the proper tools, equipment, and training to correctly and safely add equipment to your vehicle. These procedures should not be attempted by “do-it-yourselfers.”
NOTE: These installation instruction show the left fog light begin installed. The same procedure applies to installing the right fog light.

1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the preset buttons.
2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Installing the Fog Light
3. Open the hood. Loosen the battery bracket nut. Remove the radiator cover (seven clips and one bolt).
4. Remove the four clips, four bolts, and two self-tapping screws that fasten the front bumper. Remove the front bumper.
5. Using masking tape, cover the bumper around the fog light opening.
6. Using a utility knife, slowly and carefully cut out the fog light opening. Be sure to cut your lines as straight as possible, and do not damage the bumper. Remove any burrs from the edges of the fog light grille opening with a file.
7. Attach the rubber trim to the edge of the fog light opening.
8. Position the left fog light adjuster on the left fog light, and install one step screw and one 4 x 8 mm washer-screw.
9. Position the bottom hole of the fog light bracket on the left fog light, and install the one step screw.

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Blade Installation Manual

The BLADE installs easily onto round 1 7/8” to 2” diameter exhaust pipes. Important Notice: In order to install the BLADE, your car must:
• have an exposed, straight tailpipe measuring 1 7/8” - 2.0” in diameter. Example: 2004 Honda Civic
• or, dual exhaust pipes where there are 2 mufflers, each with a single exhaust pipe measuring 1 7/8” - 2.0” in diameter. Example: 2007 Lincoln Town car (in which case 2 BLADES are required).
If your car does not have either of these exhaust configurations, then your exhaust pipe will need modification. This modification is very easy to obtain at any exhaust shop i.e. Meineke, Midas, etc. Simply ask the technician to modify your tailpipe to meet this specification.

WARNING: Installing a BLADE on a tailpipe smaller than a recommended size could cause the BLADE to: (a) rattle off at the end of the tailpipe, and/or (b) not work properly.

Illustrations 1, 2, and 3 illustrate exhaust flows passing through the BLADE. The direction of the exhaust flow inside the BLADE is determined by the shape of the end of your exhaust pipe. The shapes of the exhaust pipes in Illustrations 1 and 2 are OK because they direct exhaust flows through the Exit of the BLADE. The shape of the exhaust pipe in Illustration 3 is NOT OK because it directs the exhaust flow directly into the Fabric Cartridge.

Note: Once the BLADE is properly installed on your vehicle, upon inspection you will notice that some of the exhaust flow exits the BLADE through the fabric. This is normal. The point to pay attention to is that the exhaust flow is not being aimed at , and focused directly into the fabric, as this will damage the Fabric Cartridge.

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Catch-All & Xtreme Catch-All Snap Fastener System

To install the retention system provided with your Catch-All’s, first snap the anchor screws into the bottom side of the mat. Snap an anchor screw into each factory installed retention ring. Place the Catch-Alls in your vehicle and position for best fit (see illustrations “A”, “B”, and “C”). Hold the Catch-All firmly in place against the floor and screw the anchor screw all the way into the floor carpet.

Note: To remove the anchor screws from the factory carpet, simply remove the Catch-Alls and unscrew them. To unscrew the anchor screws, you must clamp onto the snap stud with pliers or small vice grips and turn while lifting gently. Do not attempt to pull or tear them out, as this will cause damage. To remove any mark left by the anchor screws brush over the area with a vacuum brush attachment.
To remove for cleaning, lift the Catch-All and unsnap the anchor screws one at a time from each retention ring. To re-install, simply snap back into place! Apply the snap covers over all of the snap fasteners.

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High Density Discharger Installation Instructions

Working Theory. The Chemical gases, most of which are xenon and iodides, are filled the quartz tube of the light. Through the ballast, then the voltage of 12V DC will be increased to 23KV immediately: the electrons of the xenon in the tube will be dissociated because of the voltage swing and thus an electrical arc happens between the two poles. Xenon light is power saving, safe and has long life, high luminance. In addition of the use of the UV-cut quartz tube, the light is crystal forever.

Safety instruction.
Its unique safety design: Driving safely can be enhanced greatly for the light is equipped with short-circuit protection device, contra-pres- sure protection design. Therefore, the light has been the favour of the automobile modification fans from Europe, U.S.A., Japan, South Korea and Southeast Asia etc.

Installation instruction.
1. Turn off the switch, open the lid of the engine after the engin gets cool, install the same type of HID bulbs in the discharg light group to take the place of the original halogen bubls and then plug all wire cables attached into the socket and ballast related. It is prohibited to touch the surface of HID bulb by hand. If it is dirty, it should be cleaned with the rag.
2. Changing the fuse in the electric circuit of the car into the fuse special for HID.
3. Beforeinstallation, check if the bulb can touch the inner cover of the light or the opening is too small. If so, install after proper adjustment.
4. Put the bulb into the light cover carefully with no damaging force, and then stabilize it and put the waterproof ring to the original.

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2002+ Acura RSX & Honda Civic Si 328mm Front Big Brake Upgrade

Wheel spacers can provide extra clearance to the outer face of the caliper. This will also space out the entire wheel, widening the track width of the vehicle. Fender clearances should be checked on lowered cars, and longer lug studs or wheel bolts are usually required. Note: The Wheel Industry Council has issued guidelines advising wheel spacers not be used. It is the responsibility of the customer to insure wheel spacers are properly specified and installed.

Brake Vibration - THIS IS IMPORTANT!
The most common cause of brake vibration is improper bedding of pads and rotors or improper pad selection for the specific driving environment. Rotor runout may also cause vibration, but precision manufacturing and inspection typically means runout is not an issue. Double disc grinding insures the rotor runout is within +/- 0.002” when installed on our aluminum hat and controls thickness variation within 0.0003”. Under the most extreme conditions, any rotor may warp, but uneven pad deposition is a more typical vibration cause. If the system is not properly bedded in, or street pads are run on an open track, uneven pad deposits will occur causing an ever worsening vibration. Failure to immediately address a pad deposition/vibration issue may lead to permanent damage of the rotors. Please read and understand the bed-in procedures included with this manual. If you have any questions, please contact the StopTech Customer Service Department for assistance.

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HA-MC01 V2 Installation Manual

We think youʼve made an excellent choice in allowing HAWK® to protect your bike. Now the question is: “How in the world am I going to install this – there are so many wires.” What seems like a hard task is actually not too bad; however, you need to have a least some mechanical ability. Installation is all about planning, gathering information, and careful execution. Yes, you will need to do a little research to make your installation easier. The more information and reference diagrams, the better. You will need to learn how to test the polarity of a wire using a digital multi-meter; see separate section how to use digital multi-meter. Lastly, you will need your basic tools to remove some vehicle panels to access the vehicle wiring.

Planning the Alarm Install
Your plan will be the difference between a finished product and a job left for next winter. A few minutes of planning and prepping will yield at least an hour and a half less install time. Itʼs not fun, but it needs to be done! Begin by studying your vehicle specific diagram side by side with your bike alarm installation diagram. Identify which features you plan to use on the alarm, not all features are necessary. (e.g., remote starting)

Preparing the Wiring
Once you identify which items you will install along with the alarm, eliminate the unused wires to prevent clutter. It is common practice to twist the wires of a same plug together then secure them to each other with electrical tape. Do not wrap the entire bundle, as different wires go to different locations. Once you finish wrapping all the harnesses tape them to each other to create one large pigtail containing all of the used wires. This keeps the wires together, secure and free from frays and obstruction. You will now want to identify the locations of the wires which you will connect to on your bike. Take your harness of wires on the alarm which you just organized together, and split it down once more into vehicle locations. Group wires into three different groupings, for example dash, rear, and engine wires, or use your own grouping procedure. Tape these wires together in their bundles to create individual wiring bundles.

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Stator Kit for Triumph 3TA, 5TA, BSA A6 Instructions

FITTING INSTRUCTIONS
Step 1 Remove the original stator & rotor.
Step 2 Fit the new rotor on to the crank shaft locating on to the key (not all models are supplied with a keyway machined into the rotor). Fit the retaining nut but don’t fully tighten if there is no keyway.
Step 3 Position the new stator over the rotor locating on the engine studs using the spacers provided and the original nuts, don’t fully tighten so that the stator can be adjusted if necessary.
Step 4 This will give a maximum total advance of about 350, this is only a guide. Engine tune will affect the actual timing for optimum performance.
Step 5 rotate the crankshaft.
Step 6 correct fully tighten stator in place.
Step 7 Connect the stator to the CDI.

CDI ignition system for strong spark and easy starting.
External pick-up gives accurate and adjustable timing with no variance with temperature.
Flywheel has similar weight to the original to give the correct engine characteristics.
Stator supplied as standard with 150w alternator for AC lighting and/or DC output. See optional extra RR212.

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2004-05 Honda Civic L4-1.6L Typhoon Cold Air Intake System Installation Instructions

TO START:
1. Turn the ignition OFF and disconnect the vehicle’s negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the air temperature sensor electrical connection as shown.
3. Unclip the battery cable from the air inlet duct as shown.
4. Loosen and remove the two bolts that secure the air inlet duct as shown.
5. Remove the air inlet duct.
6. Loosen and remove the four bolts that secure the air intake resonator.
7. Loosen and remove the two bolts that secure the throttle body plenum.
8. Loosen the hose clamp that secures the plenum to the throttle body as shown.
9. Using a pair of pliers, depress and pull back the hose clamp on the crank case vent at the cam cover.
10. Pull firmly upwards to remove the throttle body plenum as shown.
11. Using a flat blade screwdriver, unclip the wire harness from the resonator as shown.
12. Unclip the throttle cable and cruise control cable (If equipped), then, remove the resonator by pulling upwards as shown.
13. Secure the throttle cable and cruise control cable (if equipped) to the stock clips as shown.

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Super AirFlow Converter II Wiring Diagram by Model

This document describes car models to which the Super Airflow Converter (Product code: 401-A911/401-A913) is applicable, and ECU terminal arrangement drawings. For the operating method and precautions for the Super Airflow Converter, refer to the Instruction Manual. When installing the Super Airflow Converter, both this document and the Instruction Manual are required. Even if the car model and manufacturing year coincide with the contents described in this document, this product may not be installed in certain specification vehicles or remodeled vehicles. The manufacturing years of applicable vehicles are as of January, 2005. For the latest vehicles applications, Please contact your local APEXERA Office or dealer for more information.

The ground conductor of this product has two branches (black and brown). This has a very important significance to secure the voltage conversion accuracy. Connect the ground conductor by referring to the following figure. Installing the ground conductor in a different way from the connecting method specified by APEXERA will give damage to this product and the mounted car engine.

The above figure explains only the connection of the ground conductor. For the other signal lines, refer to page 6 and page 7. Be sure to wire the power cable, ground conductor and other signal lines to the positions specified by APEXERA.
Correct Connecting Method for the Ground Conductor
Connect the ground conductor to two positions of the same line.
Be sure to connect the brown wire to the ECU side. Allow a space of 1 cm or more between the connecting point of the black wire and the connecting point of the brown wire.

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JET Air/Fuel Meter Installation & User Guide

1. Mounting the Air / Fuel Meter
Using the supplied Velcro, Suction Cups or L-Brackets, locate the Air /Fuel Meter in a convenient location that does not obstruct your view.
TIP: Clean the mounting area with alcohol or another nonabrasive cleaner to ensure the Velcro or Suction Cups adhere properly.
2. Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable
Locate the battery and remove the negative battery cable.
3. Routing the Wiring Harness
The wiring harness must be routed through the firewall to reach under the hood. Under the dash near the location that you mounted the Air / Fuel Meter, locate an existing plug or wiring harness that goes out under the hood and route the Air / Fuel Meter wiring through the firewall.
TIP: Make sure the wiring harness does not interfere with any moving parts (i.e.: gas or brake pedal) or touch anything under the hood that produces excessive heat, such as the exhaust system.
4. Connecting the Air / Fuel Meter + 12 V Power Connection (RED WIRE)
Locate the vehicles fuse box. It is normally located on the drivers side of the vehicle under the dash or in the driver’s side kick panel or under the hood. Included in the Air / Fuel Meter installation parts you have two brass fuse adaptors. Depending on which type of fuses your vehicle uses, select the one that fits your type of fuse. Connect the fuse adaptor to a fuse that has +12 volts all the time. Connect the RED WIRE from the Air / Fuel Meter to the fuse adaptor you just installed.
5. Connecting the Air / Fuel Meter ground wire (BLACK WIRE)
Connect the Black Wire from the Air / Fuel Meter to a suitable ground point. Existing screws or nuts that are attached to metal are a good location for this purpose.
6. Connecting the +12 Volt Keyed Source Wire (BROWN WIRE)
Included in the Air / Fuel Meter installation parts you have two brass fuse adaptors. Depending on which type of fuses your vehicle uses, select the one that fits your type of fuse. Connect the fuse adaptor to a fuse that has +12 volts only when the key is in the ON and RUN position. Make sure this connection has no voltage when the key is OFF . Connect the BROWN WIRE from the Air / Fuel Meter to the fuse adaptor you just installed.

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Rev Speed Meter Instruction Manual

The RSM (Rev Speed Meter) is a multi function measuring device designed to measure and monitor vehicle speed, RPM, 0-400m time, mid range acceleration, estimated horsepower, as well as acceleration G.(Using optional G Sensor)
- Easy to Read VFD (Vacuum Fluorescent Display)
The RSM utilizes and easy to read VFD screen in a highly stylish case which also complements the cockpit interior.
Due to the 3 row 7 segment LED screen used on the previous model, we were only able to display a limited amout of information on screen. Now with the new dot matrix VFD screen, we are able to display multiple types of data in multiple for mats. In addition, we are also able to display the data in graph mode, and analog modes to ensure that the driver is properly informed.
- Thin Case/ Single Button Design
Circuit board and case design have been engineered to fit into a highly compact 52mm x 126mm x 18mm space. This allows easy mounting on the steering column and dashboard. Since the unit is self contained, there is no need to search for room to mount a control box. By using a single button design, we have also maximized efficiency when navigating through the menus.
- Allows Speed Limiter Cut for a variety of Applications Compatible with new style HONDA speed limiters.
- Retains MEMORY settings even with the battery disconnected By utilizing an EEPROM, the unit will not lose its memory settings even if the battery is disconnected, or the power is turned OFF. Of course, the best 5 Time Measurements are also constantly stored. This eliminates the necessity of reprogramming the unit every time after routine services.

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CAT-303 Installation and Parts Manual

Installation Environment
1) The distance between the unit and outside wall or other goods should be kept over 200mm.The unit should be put in well-ventilated area and its temperature is within -10℃~+40 .℃
2) Check air supply pipeline of the unit and use air source with 3~10 bar to supply for the unit. When connecting the air source, please check if there is leakage in connector for air source and ensure that a certain distance between the air hose and heat source should be kept.
3) To ensure safety. Before connecting the air source, please confirm that the air pressure adjusting valve is closed. Never point the air outlet to personnel.

Connecting Hose
1) Lift the vehicle to proper height with lifter.
2) Remove the hose between the auto transmission and radiator. See Fig.5.
3) Fill desired quantity of new ATF into the unit according to the vehicle type.
4) Connect the return hose of the unit to the outlet hose of the auto transmission.
5) Connect the outlet hose of the unit to the inlet hose of the radiator.
6) Connect the air inlet on the unit to compressed air. Please be sure that the needle valve is in the open state and the air pressure adjusting valve is in the closed state before connecting the compressed air.

Exchange
1) Keep the needle valve is in fully open state. Start the engine and meanwhile slowly turn on the air pressure adjusting valve clockwise (It is advisable to adjust up to 10PSI~15PSI, and then adjust according to the quantity of the fluid inside the new/used tank), the unit will perform exchange. In this case, the fluid level inside new fluid tank should decrease and the fluid inside used tank should rise.
2) Equal adjustment: observe the quantity of the decreased new fluid and the quantity of the increased used fluid; meanwhile adjust the air pressure valve and the fluid return valve to make sure that the level inside the used tank is equal to the new tank. If the quantity of the increased used fluid is more than that of the decreased new fluid, adjust the return valve clockwise to slow the flow speed; If the quantity of the increased used fluid is less than that of the decreased new fluid, adjust the air pressure valve counterclockwise to decrease the filling quantity of the new fluid.
3) When the color of the used fluid becomes equal to the new fluid, stop the engine and turn off the unit.

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ECT Display Driver – Installation for AP2 Module

The ECT Display Driver is a small module with a removable wire harness that mounts behind the driver’s foot well cover. All wiring connections are near the ECM and only 4 wires are needed for basic operation:
• +5v power from the ECM (T-tap)
• Ground – available at ECM mounting bolt
• ECT sensor wire (T-tap at ECM)
• Dash temperature gauge wire (must cut at ECM)

If you want to use the optional Alarm Output feature 3 more wires are needed:
• Ground (must be run separate from the module’s power ground)
• Module output (negative) to your alarm device (sounder or indicator light, not included)
• +12v ignition or accessory power wired directly to your alarm device

Installation Details: refer to the photos and wiring diagram at the end of this manual
1. Remove the driver’s side doorsill trim and the driver’s foot well trim. (if you don’t know how to do this you probably shouldn’t be doing this modification)
2. Locate the connectors and wires you will be using, see photos at the end of this manual.
a. Temperature gauge wire (Yellow/Green) – Easily seen at the top left of connector A on the ECM.
b. Power wire for +5v (Yellow/Blue) – This is on the rear-most row of wires on connector C, in the ‘middle’ section of the connector. You will have to remove connector C from the ECM to locate this wire
c. ECT Sensor wire (Red/White) – This is also on the rear-most row of wires on connector C, in the ‘middle’ section of the connector.
3. Attach crimp connectors to the ECM wires as detailed below.
a. Using a pair of pliers, clamp one of the red T-taps around the Yellow/Blue wire in connector C, making sure the wire goes into the metal slot of the T-tap. If you have strong fingers you can squeeze the T-tap on the wire to hold it temporarily, then use the pliers to clamp it shut. Or, you can position the T-tap in the pliers’ jaw, then clamp it on the wire.
b. Crimp another T-tap around the Red/White wire in connector C.
c. Now cut the Yellow/Green wire a few inches away from the ECM and strip about ž” of insulation from each end.
d. Using a crimp tool, crimp a female spade connector on the end of the Yellow/Green wire that comes from the ECM.
e. Next crimp a male spade connector on the other end of the Yellow/Green wire (the end going into the wire bundle).
f. Note that the ends of the Yellow/Green wire have opposite connectors. If you ever have to remove the ECT Module you simply plug these connectors together and the temperature gauge will work like normal.
4. Attach crimp connectors to the ECT wire harness.
a. One ring terminal (each) for the Black and Brown wires .
b. The male spades crimp on the White and Yellow wires.
c. The female spade crimps on the Green wire.
5. Connect the ECT harness wires to the car wiring.
a. Plug the ECT Yellow wire into the T-tap on the Yellow/Blue wire from connector C. This is +5v power.
b. Connect the ECT White wire into the T-tap on the Red/White wire from connector C. This is the ECT sensor wire.
c. Connect ECT Green wire to the Yellow/Green wire that’s going into the wire bundle. This is the output to the dash temperature gauge.
d. Leave the Yellow/Green wire going into ECM connector A hanging loose, it’s not needed.
e. Connect the Black and Brown wires to a good ground, either at the ECM mounting bolts or the hood release latch.

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01-06 Acura MDX Cabin Air Filter Replacement for OEM

1. The filter is located behind the glove compartment. Unscrew the 2 screws at the bottom of the glove box cover to loosen the it. Remove glove box and set it aside.
2. Cut the plastic cover along the dotted lines shown and remove it. Dispose off plastic cover, it is no longer needed. This exposes the metal cross bar under it. Locate and remove 2 additional bolts securing bar. Remove and set it aside.
3. The filter access door is now accessible. Pull on the top and bottom tabs to release door. Remove door and set it aside.
TYC #: 800079P
Estimated Time : 25 min.
3. Grab onto handle and slide out old filter. Replace with new TYC filter, ensuring that Air Flow arrow is pointing to the driver’s side.
4. Reinstall in reverse order.

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1993 Honda Prelude Transmission Removal & Installation

Removal
1) Disconnect negative battery cable and ground strap at transaxle. Disconnect positive battery cable. Remove battery and battery base. Remove drain plug, and drain transaxle fluid (remove fill plug to speed draining). Install drain plug with NEW washer, and tighten plug to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS TABLE at the end of this article.
2) Disconnect wiring for starter motor, transaxle lock-up control solenoid and shift control solenoid. Remove starter. Disconnect mainshaft and countershaft speed sensor connectors. Remove complete air cleaner case assembly. Disconnect and remove throttle control cable at transaxle bracket.
3) Disconnect oil cooler hoses at joint pipes. Plug and support hoses aside. Remove transaxle upper mount bracket and rear stiffener. Remove vehicle speed sensor from transaxle without removing power steering hoses. Remove 4 upper transaxle mounting bolts.
CAUTION: When removing CV joint and drive axle assembly from transaxle, DO NOT pull on drive axle or knuckle. Inboard CV joint may separate. Pull on inboard joint.
4) Raise and support vehicle, and remove front wheels. Remove engine splash shield. Remove center crossmember bolts, and remove crossmember. Remove shock strut damper fork bolts and separate strut damper from fork. Remove right radius rod from control arm and frame. While prying on inboard CV joints, remove both drive axles from transaxle. Remove or support shafts aside. Protect inner CV joint spline from contamination by covering drive axle end by covering it with a plastic bag. Remove left intermediate shaft.
5) Remove engine stiffener bracket from between lower transaxle and engine block. Remove torque converter cover plate. Manually turn crankshaft pulley clockwise to access and remove 8 torque converter mounting bolts from torque converter drive plate.

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Honda CBR 600RR/1000RR Sequential LED Tail Light Installation Guide

1. Removing factory tail light. Seat removal needed (2 alien bolts and slide it outj.Upper tail needs to be removed (4 alien bolts and gently pull up and back - remove left and right side covers first). Disconnect factory tail light harness.
2. Unscrew two screws holding bracket to upper tail. Remove bracket and swap over to new LED tail light. Take note the order of the washers. Locate and disconnect the factory signal connectors (blue and orange). Remove factory signals
3. Connect the sub harness shorter end to the blue and yellow wire respectively on the tail light, insulate with green cover. Connect main 3-wire harness.
4. Connect the longer end of sub harness: Blue/Black to the Honda orange connector Yellow/Black to the Honda blue connector. Secure sub harness with cable ties, etc and reverse procedure for reinstalling the tail lamp. Test all functions before re-assembling upper tail.

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P115W pathBlazer application Installation

On most models, access to the 3-pin plug of the headlamp is possible simply by reaching it from underneath the front fairing or from behind the dash. There is usually a rubber splash cover over the 3-pin plug, which has to be peeled back. Installation is simple: unplug the headlamp, insert pathBlazer, and then re-connect the 3-pin plug.

However, you should plan ahead on where to mount the daylight Sensor. It can be flush mounted or you can zip–tie it. Refer to the Instructions on following pages for:
■ Choosing appropriate location for mounting the Daylight Sensor (pg-32)
■ Programming Sensitivity Levels (pg-33)
The Daylight Sensor must be plugged-in for the pathBlazer to modulate. This is in accordance with the Sec108 requirement of the Federal DOT Standard pathBlazer application
■ Single Head Lights with 3-pin H4 bulbs or Japanese 2-pin H7 bulbs
■ Modulates the HIGH-BEAM, when selected in daytime
■ Maximum load is 100W (14.5 v) rated bulb

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Home Generator Installation

Electric generators are potentially lethal if not used properly. There is a very real risk of injuring or killing someone working on power lines with an improperly connected generator. Homeowners should know the correct way to use a backup generator for their home. This page will explain how a generator transfer panel is properly installed. It will alert you to potential dangers and provide some insight on the workings of electricity. You will understand better the reasoning behind the need of a transfer panel instead of a simple double male extension cord. It is not my intent to encourage homeowners to make wiring changes, but rather to provide information which will promote safe and proper generator use. In many areas, you are required by law to obtain a permit and have a licensed electrician make any electrical changes .

In defiance of such rules, people often make electrical changes as they see fit, whether to install a dimmer switch, or to wire their newly renovated basement. In this situation, I encourage people to respect electricity, do the work correctly, and not take short cuts that could jeopardize the safety of themselves and others. A transfer panel installation is more involved than the typical do it yourself electrical job. Every installation will have its own set of unique conditions. Use information presented as a basic guideline only. I do not recommend this project be attempted by the average home owner, and anyone qualified to do such work will likely not need this page at all. Electricity is a useful tool, but it can kill and burn if not used properly. If you are not fully knowledgeable and experienced with the workings of home electrical systems hire someone competent. Click on all links and read thoroughly before proceeding.

Equally important for homeowners is the danger of carbon monoxide poisoning. Ensure adequate ventilation whenever operating a generator. Never operate a generator indoors, in an monoxide is odorless and its affects may be not noticed until it is too late. Keep the generator away from flammable objects and direct hot exhaust gas away from the house.

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03-Up Honda Pilot Step Bar Assemblies Installation Instructions

1. Remove contents and check for damage. Verify all parts are present. Read instructions completely before installation.
2. Locate driver side mounting locations on vehicle (See Figure 1and 2). Repeat for passenger side.
3. Attach driver side front and rear mounting brackets to underside of rocker panel as shown using M8 hex bolts, 5/16” flat washer and 5/16” lock washer. Hand tighten only (See Figure 1 and 2). Repeat for passenger side.
4. Place driver side step bar on saddles with Logo facing outwards. Assemble with 3/8” hardware. Hand tighten (See Figure 3 and 4). Repeat for passenger side.
5. Check step bars and brackets for proper alignment. Tighten and torque 3/8” hardware to 32 ft-lbs and M8 hex bolts to 25 ft-lbs.

Finish protection - Westin products have a high quality finish that must be cared for like any other exposed finish on the vehicle. Protect the finish with a non-abrasive automotive wax (pure carnauba, for example) on a regular basis. The use of cleaner wax or any compound which contains an abrasive is detrimental, as the compounds scratch the finish and open it to corrosion.

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BOOSTZILA Super Charging System for the Acura/Honda NSX Installation

The installation of the supplied high pressure fuel pump requires removing and reinstalling the fuel tank. An automotive lift makes this job much easier. The fuel tank can be removed with the car on jack-stands, provided you have the car high enough, and an assistant ready to help you. Our recommendation is to use an automotive lift, as it is much easier. Even if you are doing this super charger installation yourself you may want to consider taking the car to your shop and have your technician install the complete fuel system which consists of the fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator as well as some minor wiring changes to the fuel system. With the new high pressure fuel system in place you will be able to drive the car home to continue the balance of the installation.

Preparation Steps for Fuel System Installation
A: Adjust both seats to full forward position with seat backs in full upright position.
B: Disconnect the negative battery cable.
C: Remove the 5 rear interior panels starting with the long piece across the width of the car just beneath the rear glass. Next remove the two flat panels located behind the seats. Next remove the two corner pieces. Lastly, remove the rear center speaker and cover assembly. (The long panel across the width has 3 push lock barbed style securing pins w/one on each end and one in the center) (The 2 flat panels have 4 push lock barbed securing pins each, w/each barb located a couple of inches from each corner of the panels) (The corner sections are held in place with 3 Philips screws which become exposed after the flat panels are removed)
D: Remove the engine cover.
E: Remove the strut brace from the engine compartment.
F: Remove the stock air box assembly.
G: Remove the fuel rail covers, the engine name plate cover, and the intake manifold metal cover.
H: Carefully raise car using an automotive lift. If no automotive lift is available use a floor jack. If using a floor jack raise the vehicle as high as possible to safely get 4 jack stands under the unit body in the appropriate factory recommended positions. The car must be high enough to remove the fuel tank.
I: Remove the rear wheels at this time.
J: Relieve the fuel pressure in the fuel tank by loosening the gas cap.

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A Spec Rear Strut Bar Installation Guide for FIT GD

- Open trunk hatch, and pull off cover for the strut tower bolts.
- Remove the 14mm OEM nuts (requires 14mm end wrench and 5mm Allen key)
- Once removed, thread on provided nut (16mm).
- Tighten down bolt to 20lbs with 16mm End-wretch.
- Add the bracket to both sides as shown.
- Bolt it down with the OEM Honda bolt, with a thin deep socket 14mm. (Also 20lbs)
- After you are done bolting down both sides, you will add the bar onto the bracket.
- Line the bar up center to the bracket.
- Then insert the strut bar Allen bolt (8mm) through the bracket/bar and thread on nut (15mm). Tighten them to 20lbs (crush bracket to bar).
- Then tighten the bar bolt (16mm) to lock the bar in place
- Go back and tighten all bolts to 20lbs.
- You are finished!
- Take for a test drive. If there is any noise coming from the installation, go back and retighten the bolts to appropriate specs.

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Honda 1/8 NPT Oil Pressure Relocation Kit Installation Instructions

Tools Recommended: metric deep socket set, metric & American open end wrench set, 9/64th Allen wrench, Teflon tape, wire cutters, terminal crimpers.
Follow the included diagram exactly. This product uses two different but visually similar threads. 1/8” NPT and 1/8” BSPT may appear to be the same thread, but they are not. Do not assemble any portion of this kit in any way other than described. Doing so will result in stripped threads and oil leaks.

Do not over tighten threads. BSPT and NPT threads are tapered and may not sit flat. When screwing in a tapered connection by hand it will become significantly tighter as the threads engage. Tighten NPT and BSPT threads to 15 ft/lbs and stop. Be sure to use thread sealant on all connections.
1. Locate the oil filter flange on your motor and find the stock oil pressure sender. To access this location fully, certain emissions devices or the intake manifold may need to be removed. Remove the wiring harness from the stock oil pressure sender and move aside. Using the appropriate metric deep socket, unscrew the sender.
2. Install the included 1/8” BSPT adaptor in the stock oil pressure sender port. Start threads by hand and tighten snug using an open end wrench. Do not over tighten this adaptor! Install one end of the 12” extension hose and use an open end wrench to tighten.
3. With relocation block in hand, thread the stock Honda sender into the port labeled BSPT. Tighten snug using the appropriate deep socket. Thread your aftermarket oil pressure sender into the port labeled NPT. Tighten snug using an open end wrench.
4. Install the assembled relocation block on the end of the 12” extension hose. Tighten snug using an open end wrench.
5. Decide on an appropriate mounting location and measure out your ground wire. The ground wire should attach to a chassis ground or the negative terminal on the battery. Cut your wire to length, strip both ends and crimp on the included ring terminals. The small terminal should install on the relocation block. Use a
9/64th Allen wrench to remove and tighten the ground screw.
6. Reconnect the stock oil pressure sender wiring harness. If the harness will no longer reach, pull more wire from the loom or extend the wiring. To extend the wiring, simply cut the stock wire 3” from the connector and solder in more wire. You can use a piece of the included 18 gauge ground wire. Be sure to solder this connection and use shrink wrap to seal the connection.
7. Connect your sender wire to your aftermarket oil pressure sender using the appropriate wire and terminal.
8. Using the included zip tie, secure the relocation block in your desired location. This kit is designed to be universal to all Honda and similar Japanese motors. Therefore, we don’t have recommended locations for any application. Use common sense and secure your relocation block in a logical location. (read the third warning above)
9. Replace any stock parts removed during installation. Start motor and watch carefully for leaks. The system may take a few days to bleed any air out of the sending units. Odd gauge behavior is a sign of air bubbles in the sending unit. Air is naturally bled from the system over time.

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JackRabbit Honda Ridgeline Instructions

STEP 1: REMOVE PLYWOOD & INVENTORY CONTENTS
Remove the top cover from the canister box and set it aside for later installation.
Remove the canister from the box. Using the 3/8” wrench or socket remove the 2 bolts holding the plywood on the ends of the canister. Use Side Cut Pliers to cut handle retaining straps. DISCARD PLYWOOD PACKAGING AND BOLTS!
Perform a quick inventory to insure all parts are there. Be sure to check inside the small cardboard box for parts.

STEP 2: ATTACH RAIL BRACKET & RAILS TO THE CANISTER
Open the rail box along the length of the box; lift rails out to avoid scratching the rail surface on the package staples.
REMOVE PROTECTIVE PAPER ON UNDERSIDE OF RAILS. THIS IS FOR PACKAGING PURPOSES ONLY.
Find the two rear rail bracket’s and four of the #8–32 X ―” countersunk screws in the hardware kit and attach them to each of the rails at the tailgate end. (Notice that there is a Left hand side and a Right hand side bracket) (Figure 2a)
Install the rails to the canister by sliding them through the attached blanket guides on the canister, threading the blanket in the rails, and sliding the rails into the rail grips that are attached on the inside of the canister. Then slide the rails forward, towards the truck cab making sure that both of the rail grips are engaged. (Figure 2b) Complete for both left and right rails.
STEP 3: INSTALL CAB END RAIL BRACKETS & PREPARE BED
Find the two front rail brackets with rail mounting block attached to them in the hardware kit. In the truck bed remove the two factory bolts holding the front upper tie down bracket in place with a #50 torx bit. Place the front rail bracket in front (mounting block up) of the upper tie down bracket and run factory bolts back in making sure the upper tie down bracket is exactly the way it was when removed.

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Honda CBR-600 F4/F4i Ti Force Exhaust System Installation Instructions

Get pdf Honda CBR-600 F4/F4i Ti Force Exhaust System Installation Instructions

2009 Honda Pilot FWD/4WD ReadyLift Part# 69-8010 Installation Instructions

Position truck on a flat surface and lift vehicle by the frame so that the front wheels are off the ground. Use a minimum 3 ton jack stands and place under frame for safety or a (2) two post lift if available. Make sure that the emergency brake is on and the rear wheels are blocked to prevent a rollout.

1. Open the hood and set at highest setting. Remove the front wheels. Starting on the driver side.
2. Use a flat screwdriver to remove windshield wiper access panel . Remove the three 14mm upper strut nuts.
3. Remove the brake line support bracket using a 12mm wrench.
4. Use a 10mm wrench and remove the ABS line support bracket bolt.
5. Unbolt and remove the front sway bar end link. You will not reuse this part.
6. A 24mm wrench and socket will be needed to remove the lower strut mounting bolts.
7. Carefully remove the strut from the vehicle making sure not to drop it on the outer CV boot. Tilting the knuckle towards the rear of the vehicle will make removal easier.
8. Please note that the ReadyLift strut extensions are driver side and passenger side specific. Arrow points toward front of vehicle.

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Honda TRX 450R BoonDocker Nitrous System Installation Instructions

A common misconception about nitrous oxide is that it is explosive or flammable. Nitrous by itself does not burn, nor is it explosive. At 565 deg. F, nitrous oxide (N20) breaks apart and forms two parts nitrogen and one part oxygen. Inside an engine, this added oxygen speeds up the combustion process (the nitrogen plays an important part in buffering the reaction). Whenever nitrous is used, additional fuel is necessary; otherwise the added oxygen will act as a blowtorch inside your engine. When used properly, nitrous oxide provides the same benefits as turbo charging or supercharging your engine (extra power is made by burning more fuel and oxygen), but without the added cost or complexities.

Below is a diagram of the major components of the Boondocker Liquid Nitrous System. The simplicity of this system makes it the most reliable, easy to tune, and easy to install nitrous system available. By using the existing fuel system (carburetor) to add the required extra fuel for nitrous, the complexity and unreliability of extra components is eliminated.

The part that makes the Boondocker nitrous system so unique is our patent pending Nitrous Manifold. This manifold simply mounts on the airbox or air filter where it sprays a fine mist of nitrous that is then drawn into the engine through the carburetor(s). This allows the nitrous to be naturally aspirated into the cylinder instead of being forced, which is much friendlier to the motor and allows the nitrous to be used in a much wider range of throttle and rpm settings.

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HONDA TRX450R Frame Skid Plate Installation Instructions

Preparation:
a) Lock rear parking brake on quad, turn gas petcock to Off and stand quad upright on the rear grab bar. Make sure vehicle is secure and will not fall over while installing your new skid plate.
b) Remove OEM bolts mounting the OEM Frame Cover to the Frame using a 10mm socket wrench. You may discard the OEM mounting bolts and plastic frame cover.

Installation:
a) Top Mount: Pressing the skid plate against the bike, hooking the leading edge of the skid over the frame. Loosely install (1) Item #4 bolt through the one top dimpled slotted hole from the bottom up and thread into (1) Item #2 hook placed over the frame tube from the opposite side. Loosely attach bolt to hold skid plate in position.
b) Apply Item #5 strips to skid plate in areas where frame will rest against skid plate. This will keep the plate from rattling and help keep it in place once all hooks are tightened down.
c) Upper Middle Mount: Install (1) Item #4 bolt through (1) Item #6 hook. Hook will compress onto center of frame.
d) Middle Mounts: Install (2) Item #4 bolts through the two middle dimpled slotted holes from the bottom up and thread into (2) Item #3 hooks placed over the frame tube from the opposite side. Loosely attach bolts to hold skid plate in position.
e) Bottom Mounts: Install (2) Item #4 bolts through the two bottom dimpled slotted holes from the bottom up and thread into (2) Item #2 hooks placed over the frame tube from the opposite side. Loosely tighten bolts to hold skid plate in position.
f) After skid plate hooks are oriented correctly, tighten all 6 supplied bolts to 12 ft-lbs.

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Honda/Acura Traction System Installation Instructions

This system is a bolt-on package that is designed to enhance traction by eliminating wheel hop and promoting weight transfer to the front wheels. Installation of this product requires the permanent removal of the factory plastic splash pan located just behind the radiator support. No other modifications are required for installation.

INSTALLATION
1. Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
2. Remove the front wheels and the splash pan under the radiator. Discard splash pan, it will not be reused.
3. Remove both shipping hooks located on the front frame rails by unbolting (3) 10mm bolts holding each bracket. Save the bolts for re-installation.
4. Slide the crossmember assembly into place so that the end brackets on the crossmember align with the holes where the shipping hooks mounted. Re-install the (3) 10mm bolts through the end brackets finger tight.
5. Remove the forward most bolt from the driver’s side front engine anti-rotation mount located on the bottom of the front frame rail. Save the bolt. Loosen the rear bolt (2) turns.
6. Slip the end of the long crossmember support (the end with one hole) between the anti-rotation mount and the frame rail. Replace the front bolt finger tight. Swing the opposite end of the support down to the bracket on the crossmember assembly. Insert (2) of the supplied 3/8”-24 x 1” bolts through the support bracket and crossmember bracket. Hold in place using the supplied 3/8”-24 locknuts finger tight. Repeat for the passenger side crossmember support.
7. Tighten all bolts to 40 ft-lbs.
8. Locate the (2) bolts that hold the factory lower suspension arm together. Remove the outermost nut from the bolt. Remove the bolt from the arm by driving it rearward with a hammer. One or two sharp blows with a hammer should remove the bolt from the factory press fit.

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Honda TRX500 Foreman Rubicon, GPScape Winch Mounting Instructions

INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Remove the plastic lower front skid plate and the plastic upper bumper guard.
2. Remove the two bumper mounting bolts from the horizontal legs of the bumper.
3. Install the U-Clamps at the front of the horizontal bumper mounting legs from the outside, per the illustration.
4. Install the mount per the illustration by reinstalling the original bolts at the back and installing the provided 1/4″ x 1-3/4″ bolts, 1/4″ flat washers and 1/4″ nylock nuts through the mount and U-Clamps.
5. Tighten all nuts and bolts securely.
6. Install the winch to the winch mount using the hardware provided with the winch.
7. Install the roller fairlead to the winch mount using (2) 5/16″ x 3/4″ bolts and 5/16″ nylock nuts provided. (Rollers should turn freely).
NOTE: Bottom roller may need to be removed to run wire rope through.
8. Using the instructions provided with the winch, wire accordingly.
9. Reinstall the plastic lower front skid plate and the plastic upper bumper guard.

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Honda/Suzuki Electronic Jet Kit Instructions

This product is a great fit for stock bikes with exhaust and intake mods. It is also capable of handling the fuel needs of big bore kits, light cams, and a variety of head porting. This is an Electronic Jet Kit. Like jet kits in the past, the more you modify, the more responsibility you take in getting your fuel curve right. Going to www.dobeckperformance.com will help you obtain better high horsepower tuning.

INSTALLATION
(at any time during install or tuning please call us for any and all help, we can’t help if you don’t call)
1. Before installing the TFI you must first disconnect the negative lead from the battery.
2. Determine a location for the TFI unit. Suggested locations are as follows: Under the seat, behind a side cover or tail section.
3. The TFI comes with a harness with injector connectors that match the factory injector connectors.
4. Locate the factory fuel injectors (see owners manual if you are not sure).**
**: Some models are equipped with two sets of injectors (primary and secondary) the unit is designed to interface with the primary injectors. If the TFI harness does not match your injectors do not proceed and call tech support at 877-764-3337.
5. Disconnect the factory injector connectors from the fuel injectors and replace with the TFI injector connectors from the TFI unit, basically unhook the factory injector connector and plug the matching TFI connector (female) to the injector and then connect the factory injector connector to the TFI connector that simulates the injector (male). There is no order to hook up the TFI harness to the factory harness just make sure the original factory connector goes to its’ original cylinder. It is a good idea to make sure there is a little slack in the harness to prevent engine vibration from damaging/breaking a wire on the connectors.
6. Be sure to check the wires are not in direct contact with any sharp edges, exhaust and/or other objects, which could result in long term wear and/or damage.
7. Connect the TFI ground lead to the negative terminal of the battery along with the factory ground lead.
8. With the rubber plug removed from the TFI, turn the motorcycle key switch to the “ON” position. As the bikes electrical system goes through initial start up mode you may see LED’s flashing on the TFI.

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Honda CBR-1100xx Blackbird Ti Force Exhaust System Installation Instructions

Before Installation:
• Verify that all parts and accessories have been included (see list below).
• Coat all exhaust pipe mating joints with anti-seize compound / lubricant (Finish Line Ti-Prep packet included).
• Read and review these instructions, cautions, diagrams and images prior to starting any work.
1. Remove the lower fairing. Remove the lower radiator mounting bolts, loosen the upper bolts and pivot the radiator forward to provide access to the exhaust nuts (flange nuts). Remove the oil cooler mounting bolts and pivot the oil cooler forward to provide access.
2. Remove the existing exhaust system and save the flange nuts for reuse. Save the stock exhaust can mounting bolt and nut for the end can to the passenger footpeg for reuse as well.
3. Inspect the exhaust gaskets. Replace if necessary.
4. Assemble the head pipes 1 (blue), 2 (red), 3 (yellow), and 4 (green) by matching the joints of the same color to the pair of front Y-pipes. Do not install the exhaust springs at this time.
5. Remove the rubber center stand stop from the stock exhaust system. Insert the rubber stop into the supplied steel bracket. Mount the bracket to the right side of centerstand using the stock mounting bolt, and tighten fully.
6. Attach the assembled head pipe sections to the exhaust ports, but do not tighten the flange nuts fully, allowing for some adjustment in the remaining steps. Reuse the flange nuts saved from step 2 above. Make sure the ends of the headpipes fit flush and snug in the ports before tightening.
7. Install the S-Bend to the front section of the headpipes and two Y-pipes.
8. Go back and retighten the head pipe flange nuts per factory specification.
9. Slide the TiForce end can into place.
10. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands K, and stay / hanger G to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware H. See figure 1.
11. Place the bands approximately 115mm from the edge of the end can. See figure 2.
12. Using the stock provided mounting point on the passenger footpeg, and using the stock mounting bolt, mount the end can loosely, allowing for some adjustment. Insert the stock mounting bolt through the stay / hanger G.
13. Attach the supplied springs to all the joints, starting from the headpipes and working back to the end can. Please note that a spring is not used for the #1 cylinder head pipe to Y-pipe joint.
14. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear, if necessary jiggle the system to adjust for proper clearance.
15. Carefully align the two stainless bands K so that they are parallel to each other, and spaced properly on the can (refer to step 11 / figure 2), then tighten the 6mm hardware H and the stock mounting bolt hardware. Make sure that the rubber pads fully cover the band(s). USE CAUTION WHEN TIGHTENING THE 6MM HARDWARE AND THE TWO BANDS SO AS NOT TO CRUSH OR DISTORT THE SLEEVE OF THE CAN.
16. Using some brake and contact cleaner on a clean rag, carefully wipe down the entire exhaust system to remove any residual oils, anti seize, fingerprints and dirt prior to starting the motor. FAILURE TO CLEAN THE TUBING AND CAN MAY RESULT IN PERMANENT STAINING OF THE SYSTEM WHEN HEATED.
17. Go back and reinstall the radiator and oil cooler as per factory specifications. Verify fluid levels as needed.
18. Check that all hardware is properly tightened, then start the motor and check for exhaust leaks.
19. Reinstall the fairing and tighten any fasteners per factory specification.

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Honda CR-V Second Seat Floor Liner Installation Instructions

Your new floor liner is custom molded to fit your particular vehicle. The liner is made to take the place of your factory floor mats. For correct fit, it is necessary to remove the factory floor mat before installing your new floor liner. However, do not remove the factory-installed carpeting. Your liner is made from an engineering resin that is lightweight and extremely tough and durable. The easiest way to clean your liner is with a damp cloth or sponge. If using a cleaner, 409о or Glass Plusо work well. Use of Armor Allо, Son-of-a-Gunо or similar items is discouraged as these products make the liner slick.

To ease installation of your honda cr-v second seat liner, first move both of the front seats to their most forward position. Next, position the liner in your vehicle as shown depicted above. Once liner is installed, reposition front seats as desired. If your cr-v is equipped with a factory console between the front bucket seats, you will need to trim your liner to accommodate this option. To trim, simply follow the edge of the molded step (removing the tread plated area) as shown above. Pictures of the trimmed part are shown on the back of this page. A utility knife or heavy shears work well for trimming.

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1990-1993 Honda Accord Hi-Flow Fuel Rail Installation Instructions

Relieving fuel pressure
a) Remove the fuel fill cap.
b) On models equipped with a 6mm service bolt. (illustrated below) If your vehicle is not equipped with a 6mm service bolt, then proceed to step c.
i) Use a box end wrench on the 6mm service bolt on top of the fuel filter or fuel rail, while holding the special banjo bolt with another wrench.
ii) Place a rag or shop towel over the 6mm service bolt.
iii) Slowly loosen the 6mm service bolt one complete turn.
iv) Leave service bolt loose until all pressure has been relieved.
v) Tighten service bolt to 10 lbf-ft.
c) On models not equipped with a 6mm service bolt.
i) Use a box end wrench on the 12mm banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter.
ii) Place a rag or shop towel over the 12mm banjo bolt.
iii) Slowly loosen the 12mm banjo bolt one complete turn or until all pressure has been relieved.
iv) Torque the 12 mm banjo bolt to 25 lbf-ft.

Stock fuel rail, injectors and fuel pressure regulator removal
Refer to following vehicle-specific diagrams for proper disassembly.
a) Disconnect the fuel inlet fitting at the fuel rail.
i) Be careful not to lose either of the two crush washers.
b) Disconnect the wire connectors from the fuel injectors.
c) Disconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator.
d) Place a rag or shop towel over the fuel pressure regulator.
i) Remove the two 6mm retaining bolts.
ii) Position the fuel pressure regulator out of the way. (1) Be careful not to loose the o-ring that goes between the fuel rail and the fuel pressure regulator.
e) Loosen and remove the retainer nuts/bolts on the fuel rail, injector harness, and any other components that may be bolted to the fuel rail.
f) Disconnect the fuel rail.
g) Remove the fuel injectors from the intake manifold.
i) Some models have an injector insulator on the injector tip (the end of the injector that goes into the intake manifold) and some models do not. Note the arrangement your model has and be sure to reassemble the injector assembly correctly.
h) Inspect all seals, o-rings, and washers. If any of these components look at all worn or damaged, then replace with genuine Honda parts.

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2000+ Honda Rubicon ATV Plow Mounting Kit Installation Instructions

Installation
1. Slide four 5/16” dia x 1-1/4” wide U-bolts (C1) over the underside frame of the ATV. If unsure of their location, position the plow mount (A1) against the underside of the ATV, just in front of the skid pan, and find the approximate location of where the U-bolts go.
2. Once the U-bolts (C1) are in place, position the plow mount (A1) under the vehicle, and slide the legs of the U-bolts through the eight holes in the plow mount. Work on one U-bolt leg at a time, as a threaded end is exposed, terminate the U-bolt leg with a 5/16” dia flat washer (C2) and 5/16” dia nylock nut (C3). Continue until each U-bolt has a washer and nut on the end of it.
NOTE: Do not tighten the bolt and nut completely. You will do this in the next step
3. Tighten all the 5/16” dia nylock nuts (C3) on the plow mount (A1). Tighten each nut just a little and work around each one until they are tightened to a recommended torque of 12 ft-lb (16 N-m). The completed plow mount should look like figure 1.
4. If not already done so, assemble the plow per the instructions that came with the plow blade kit. Attach the plow to the plow mount (A1) using the clip pins that came with the plow blade. Use figure 2 to determine which mounting location to use. Those using a winch to lift their plow should use the forward holes, while those using an electric actuator should use the rearward holes. If using an electric actuator or manual lift to raise your plow, stop here and proceed to section IV, Maintenance/Care. Winch users continue with step 5.
5. Attach the J-bolt bracket (A2) to the center hole in the plow crossmember using a 3/8” dia x 1” long bolt (D1) as shown in figure 3. The bracket should be mounted on the blade side of the crossmember with the side flanges parallel to the ground. Terminate the bolt with a 3/8” dia flat washer (D2) and 3/8” dia nylock nut (D3). Tighten the bolt and nut to a recommended torque of 20 ft-lb (28 N-m).
6. Run the winch cable over the roller fairlead and down to the J-bolt bracket (A2). Using a 1/4” dia J-bolt (B1), hook the loop on the end of the winch cable and slide the threaded end of the J-bolt through the round holes in the J-bolt bracket. The hook end of the J-bolt should slide into the slotted hole in the J-bolt bracket. Terminate the end of the J-bolt with a 1/4” dia flat washer (B2) and 1/4” dia nylock nut (B3). Tighten the nut until the winch cable is snug inside the J-bolt as shown in figure 4.

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Honda GL1000 Condenser Ground Upgrade Mounting Instructions

Honda GL1000 Condenser Ground Upgrade Mounting Instructions

ll left / right descriptions are from the point of view of the rider when seated on the bike in the riding position.
Note: the condenser upgrade cable supplied will have a black cover to make it inconspicuous enough for a concours show bike. The example shown has a red cover to highlight the correct location and routing.
1. Place the bike on the center stand.
2. Remove the left side cover.
3. Loosen the rear engine mounting bolt. This is a long bolt that passes through both rear engine hangers. If mounted correctly, the nut, washer and lock washer should be on the right side of the bike. Yours may be reversed.
4. Loosen and remove the 2 bolts which attach the left rear upper engine hanger.
5. The main battery ground cable attachment point to the chassis is now revealed.
6. Clean the main battery ground cable ring connector with medium sandpaper.
7. Likewise, clean any visible corrosion on the frame, engine and engine hanger in the area which contacts the main battery ground cable.
8. Spray PBBlaster or similar penetrant onto the outer condenser attach screw.
9. Using a small ratchet screwdriver as shown, loosen (but do not remove) the outer condenser attach screw. This is a 5mm, Phillips head screw. Important: use a #2 Phillips bit. You can buy these very handy Craftsman ratchet screwdrivers at Sears. I’ve not found a better tool for this particular job.
10. Slide the small spade connector end of Randakk’s GL1000 Condenser Ground Upgrade Cable under the outer condenser mounting screw. You should use some of the anti-corrosion product listed in step 14 below.
11. Tighten the outer condenser mounting screw securely.
12. Route the Condenser Ground Upgrade Cable through the frame as shown.

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Honda Shadow Spirit VT750DC Taillight Bracket Modification Instructions

Parts included:
- main bracket, polished, chromed
- wide cateye taillight, w/ 36” long wires (if ordered)
- fasteners: (2) ž” x ―” bolts, nuts, (4) washers for main bracket
- (2) small washers for mounting taillight to main bracket

Rear fender assembly:
- remove seat – two bolts on side
- remove seat holding metal bracket (7,22)
- disconnect rear wiring harness from wiring cluster above battery; these include rear turn signal and rear brakelight wires
- remove 2 bolts on each side of rear fender strut (9,16); this will loosen the rear fender entirely
- lift off the rear fender assembly carefully, making sure not to scratch paint !
- remove seat nut (17), and carefully separate fender (12) from metal frame (13)

Brake light removal: [make careful note of wiring in fender frame]
- remove wiring harness from clips; clip edged tend to be sharp; use caution.
- remove stock metal taillight bracket (10).

New Bracket installation:
- install new license plate (and frame, if any) BEFORE installing taillight on bracket
- pass wires on the wide cateye taillight through main bracket, and fasten taillight on the bracket using two bolts on the light; make sure to install the light so that clear window faces downward, toward lic. plate
- install new bracket over metal fender frame as shown; loosely fasten one side tab, press bracket over other side, and fasten the other tab, and tighten bolts evenly.
- re-install wires through clips in fender frame; make sure wiring is properly routed, to avoid interference with rear wheel, fender bolts, etc.
- re-install fender assembly; used specified Torque values (47 ft. lb; per service manual)
- reconnect rear turn signal wires (brakelight connection – see below)

Brakelight Wiring Key: (for taillights with 36” wires ONLY)
- Black wire on taillight to green wire [-ve ground]
- Yellow wire on taillight to Brown wire [running lamp circuit]
- Red wire on taillight to Green/Yellow striped wire [brake circuit]
- Turn switch on; test brake light function before riding, while bike is stationary; if brake light remains ON (bright) and dims when brakes are applied, swap red and yellow wire connections; check again for correct brakelight function.

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2006-2007 Honda Civic DX/LX/EX 1.8L Cold Air System Installation Instructions

Removing the stock air inlet system
a) Pry loose the retaining buttons on the lower splash shield.
b) Remove all retaining buttons on the fender liner around the fender well.
c) Carefully pull back the fender liner and splash shield to gain access to the fender well and stock resonator box.
d) Remove the battery from the engine bay.
e) Remove the plastic battery tray.
f) Remove the two bolts that secure the intake arm to the battery tray.
g) Slide the rubber part of the intake arm off of the airbox inlet. Remove the intake arm from the engine bay.
h) Disconnect the MAF sensor harness. Remove the harness clip from the airbox and move the harness out of the way.
i) Push back all the clips holding the filter lid, and remove the lid and the air filter from the vehicle.
j) Separate the lines from the rubber coupler. Loosen the hose clamp at the throttle body end of the rubber coupler.
k) Pull the metal breather line out of the rubber grommet on the airbox.
l) Pull the metal breather line out of the rubber hose attached to the valve cover. Then pull the rubber hose off the valve cover.
m) Remove the two bolts that secure the airbox. Carefully remove the airbox with rubber coupler out of the engine bay.
n) Remove the bolt holding the resonator box on the side of the fender well.

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2007-08 Honda Fit M/T & A/T Base Injector Upgrade Kit

The KraftWerks Honda Fit Injector Upgrade kit is designed to be used in conjunction with the KraftWerks Fit Base Supercharger Systems. If you are a competent mechanic with a good set of tools, the installation will be relatively simple. This is a general installation guide for the KraftWerks Fit Injector Upgrade kit; however each installation may vary slightly. Please keep these key factors in mind before installing:
Please review the entire installation guide before attempting install. If you have any questions about your ability to perform this installation, we recommend you take your vehicle to a performance shop for installation.

For tools you will need:
- A full set of metric wrenches from 8mm to 19mm
- A full set of metric sockets from 8mm to 19mm
- A screwdriver set
- Tin Snips
All of the tools required for this installation can be purchased at a local hardware or auto parts store.
Make sure that your vehicle has premium gasoline in the tank (91 Octane or more). Run several tanks of Premium fuel through your car prior to installing the supercharger to ensure that there is good Premium grade fuel throughout the system. If you are using a discount brand of fuel, we suggest you switch to a “top tier” gasoline. It is a good practice to get into.
Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle.
Do not smoke during this entire installation.
Work in a well-ventilated area. You will be working around gasoline and gasoline fumes

SECTION 1: PRE-INSTALLATION PRECAUTIONS:
Step 1: Remove the negative battery cable. Before removing the battery cable, verify that you have the “anti theft” radio code. It is usually located in your owner’s manual or on the side of the glove compartment. If you cannot find the radio code, take your car to your local Honda dealer so that they can retrieve the code through the Honda computer network.
SECTION 2: INJECTOR INSTALLATION
Step 2: Remove the plastic cosmetic cover from the intake manifold.
Step 3: Remove the five 12mm headed bolts/nuts that hold the plastic upper intake manifold to the aluminum lower manifold. Be careful when these two manifolds are not bolted together. Errant bolts/nuts or debris could fall into the intake manifold and cause severe engine damage. It is recommended that you cover the lower intake runners with protective tape or a shop towel.
Step 4: Remove the gas cap and remove any residual pressure from the fuel tank. Always use safety glasses while performing this operation.
Step 5: Remove the plastic safety cover from the fuel line/fuel rail connector. Push the safety clips from each side of the fuel line and gently remove the fuel line from the fuel rail. Have a shop towel ready for any high pressure residual fuel that might spray from the fuel rail.

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2004-2008 Honda CBR1000RR Galfer Brake lines Installation Instructions

Install Galfer Brake lines after HeliBars® are installed. Carefully follow their instructions.
A. Before the factory bars are removed:
1. Carefully loosen the clutch hydraulic line banjo bolt at the clutch master cylinder just enough to rotate the steel banjo fitting forward. (See photo A for positioning). Additional fine adjustments may be required after installation of HeliBars. This modification is necessary for the new bar location / hydraulic line clearance.
B. Remove front brake hydraulic lines (longer stainless steel brake lines are provided). Cover or plug open banjo bolt holes.
CAUTION: Hydraulic brake fluid is extremely corrosive to paint and plastic. Additional instructions are provided with the Galfer brake lines.
1. Completely drain front brake hydraulic system.
2. Detach front brake hydraulic line from master cylinder. Cover or plug open banjo bolt hole. Remove the clamp that holds the line to the lower triple clamp.
3. Remove the bolt that attaches the brake line junction (photo 1) to the right side of the front fender and save with stock brake line.
4. Remove the clamp that holds the left caliper line to the left side of the fender. (Photo 2) Reinstall the nut only and tighten. This will protect the new line from chafing.
5. Remove the left and right banjos from the calipers. Cover or plug open banjo bolt holes.
C. Remove the stock handlebars. It will be necessary to temporarily move the electronic steering stabilizer out of the way. Refer to the factory manual.
1. Remove the damper weights at the end of both bars. REFER to the attached sheet “Removing Damper Units from Stock Handlebars”. Use a large T handle Phillips head wrench while carefully holding the damper weight from rotating.
2. Remove top triple clamp.
3. Remove all controls from the stock bars. Note the location of cables and line. Remove stock clipons.
4. Remove wire circlips from both fork tubes located just beneath the bottom edge of the stock clipon clamps. They will not be reused.
5. Install throttle on to the right side HeliBar and slide over the right fork tube. Lightly tighten pinch bolts. Reposition the starter / kill switch housing wire loom behind the right fork tube and install control on to bar. Tighten. 6. 6. Install front brake master cylinder. Use caution to avoid marring the powder coat finish. With the HeliBar design, the throttle housing is repositioned to allow additional slack. The throttle position is 110 degrees clockwise from stock putting the cables below the front brake master cylinder.

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Windscreen Installation

The satisfactory performance and durability of the windscreen is wholly dependant on the integrity of the mechanism and the quality of the installation. We can not be responsible for problems resulting from faulty installation. Follow the instructions carefully and work slowly and cautiously. Do not exert excessive force on any part of the mechanism or the screen — they are plastic and may break Your windscreen shipped with a protective paper/film covering on both sides. To protect it from scratches, leave the covering on until you are ready to mount the screen on the mechanism.

1. Remove the stock aero screen mechanism from your car. Start by prying loose the two small gray plastic tabs on the top of the mechanism on the side toward the rear of the car. Use a small screwdriver. To protect the tabs from scratches or digs, wrap the screwdriver tip with a single layer of electrical tape. When the tabs are removed, you’ll see a machine screw with a Phillips head in each of the two holes. Loosen the screws with a Phillips screwdriver until the windscreen assembly detaches from the compartment cover. Save any loose parts. If the screen assembly does not come loose, proceed to step 2,. If it does, skip step 2.
2. Lift up the compartment cover. Underneath, you’ll find two small nuts that attach the windscreen mechanism to the compartment. Using a socket in a small socket wrench or driver, remove the nuts. You may have to use the Phillips screwdriver on the top side of the machine screws to keep to screws from spinning as you turn the nuts loose. Once the screws are loose, detach the windscreen mechanism from compartment cover. Save any loose parts.
3. Take the mechanism to a work bench or other flat work space. Cover the workspace with a shop towel or other soft surface to keep the mechanism from being scratched while you work on it.

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Honda FL350 Works Performance Product Mounting Instructions

These shocks are pressurized with nitrogen to 250 psi. Normally there is no reason to change the nitrogen pressure in the shocks. It is not intended as an air shock which can be made stiffer or softer with changes in pressure. The use of standard automotive-type air chucks and gauges will allow the oil in the non-reservoir shocks to escape. Attempts to recharge the shocks should only be performed by trained service persons with the necessary high-pressure nitrogen handling equipment.

FL350 INSTALLATION TIPS REAR SHOCKS
After removing the rear shocks, file the weld on the backside of the tip mounting bolt hole (on the inside of the frame). Smooth it out as well as possible, so that the supplied 14 mm nuts used with the bolts will sit flat against the frame.

Install the top mounting bolt (stock) through the body end of the shock so that the hose points toward the front of the car. tighten the bolt against the eye grommet, but allow a slight amount of side-to-side movement—about 1/2-inch at the eye on the opposite end. The threaded sleeve on some frames may be too short and the bolt will bottom out and leave too much space. Use the ring type spacers between the shock body and the threaded part to take up the space.

While holding the bolt securely, install and tighten the 14mm lock nut against the frame. Remove the bottom shock bolt from the rear trailing arm. Tap in the flanged bushing on each side of the arm. This will reduce the size of the hole so that the long 1/2-inch bolt can be used.

Lightly grease the O-rings on each side of the spherical bearing in the eye. (This should also be performed any time the shocks are removed or when performing routine maintenance.) Slide one of the small aluminum spacers over the supplied 1/2-inch bolt with the step toward the shock eye. (Note: These spacers help locate O-rings and position the bearing, so never leave them out when assembling the rear suspension.) Slip the bolt part way into the eye, then put on the other small aluminum spacer. Hold the suspension up slightly to insert the bolt into the trailing arm from the inside. Install the flat washer and the lock nut.

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2009 CIVIC 2-DOOR Si Tire Pressure Monitoring System Aluminum Wheel Instructions

NOTE:
• This aluminum wheel is designed for use on the TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) vehicle.
• This aluminum wheel is equipped with the TPMS sensor. See the Service Manual for tire replacement procedure and TPMS sensor installation procedure (paragraph of Tire Pressure Sensor Replacement).
• The illustration of the aluminum wheels are shown for reference purposes only.
• Install the correct size tire.
• Use a tire changer to remove and install the tires. Using a tire lever to remove and install the tires can damage to the tire, the wheel, and the TPMS sensor.
• The wheel nut torque is 108 N·m (80 lbf-ft)
1. Clean the mating surface and the valve hole of the aluminum wheel.
2. Install the tire pressure sensor and the washer to the aluminum wheel, and loosely install the valve nut. Make sure the pressure sensor is resting on the wheel.
NOTE: Install the tire pressure sensor so that the sensor housing surface does not protrude into the bead area of the wheel to prevent the sensor housing from being caught on the bead of the tire.
3. Torque the valve nut to 4 N·m (3 lbf-ft) while holding the tire pressure sensor toward the wheel.
NOTE:
• Do not reuse the grommet that had been tightened, even one time, to the specified torque, as they are deformed inside.
• Do not use air or electric impact tools to tighten the valve stem nut.
• Tightening the nut beyond the specified torque can damage the nut.
4. Install the tires according to the instructions in the service manual.
5. Install the wheels on the vehicle and torque the wheel nuts to 108 N·m (80 lbf-ft).

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