Auto Manual Resource: January 2009

2005-07 Suzuki SV1000 Installation & Operation Manual

Thank you for purchasing a genuine Two Brothers Racing JUICE BOX™. This product represents a radical step forward in tuning fuel-injected motorcycles and ATVs for optimal performance using “load-based” technology. We at Two Brothers Racing hope that you will find this development as exciting and useful as we do. And remember: Proper Fuel = Maximum Power!

1. Make sure the vehicle is completely cool before starting the installation. Also, make sure the vehicle is secure and will not roll around.
2. Remove side panel screws, side panels.
3. Remove seat mount hardware, seat.
4. Remove front tank mount hardware, lift and support tank.
5. Locate JUICE BOX™ in the tail section.
6. Route the harness down the RH frame. connect ground to the negative post of the battery.
7. Route harness over rear cylinder head and down the left side of the throttle body.
8. Locate the throttle body harness connector, it’s between the LH frame and airbox. Reach in through the LH frame opening, find and disconnect. Pull the JUICE BOX™ harness connector out through the frame opening.
9. Connect the JUICE BOX™ harness to the throttle body harness. Connect the JUICE BOX™ harness to the main harness. Place a screwdriver on the back of the connector (Fig 7) to hold it. Reach in through the frame opening and connect the JUICE BOX™
10. Start the bike. The green LED should scroll left to right and back for about 3-5 seconds and then go to 1-2 steady or slowly flashing green LED’s. If the number 1 green LED and number 8 red LED’s continue flashing after startup or idling, an injector wiring error is indicated. Re-check the wires from the JUICE BOX™ and make sure they are connected to the proper wire of your bike’s stock harness. MAKE SURE you have the correct wires selected in the stock harness. DO NOT PROCEED UNLESS ABOVE CONDITIONS ARE MET.

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Suzuki SV1000 Specifications

A vibrant, litre-class V-Twin delivering thumping drive out of corners along with a spine-tingling exhaust note. A compact lightweight chassis providing razor-sharp responses and a stream of dependable feedback from every twist, turn and bump in the tarmac. The SV1000, a no-nonsense naked roadster with a smartly packaged combination of advanced features - innovative SDTV (Suzuki Dual Throttle Valve) digital fuel injection, aluminium-alloy truss frame, comfortable riding position, and more - is ready to serve up what every true biker craves: a stimulating dialogue between road and rider.

Cruising through town, taking on a fast country switchback - whatever the road, the SV1000 is in its element, beckoning you to try them all.

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Suzuki TTL Manual - Throttle Actuator Installation Instructions pdf

This application can be a difficult throttle installation, and requires the use of a Torque Wrench in the installation. Since this engine is so tightly packaged, you may wish to have your Suzuki/OMC dealer install this for you. Read through the instructions completely before proceeding. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to call our technical service advisors. 1-800-588-7655.

Step One:
Disconnect motor from battery and or disconnect safety lanyard, to prevent motor from starting during throttle actuator installation

Step Two:
Remove Cover (cowling) from motor.

Step Three:
Remove the right side cover as described in the Service Manual.

Step Four:
Remove the carburetor as described in the Service Manual. Leave the fuel hose attached, as shown in figure 5.

Step Five:
Remove the outer throttle lever parts. See figures 5 and 6. Note the order and orientation of these parts as they are removed. See Figure 7

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WXT510 WMT50 Wiring Diagram pdf

To avoid exceeding the maximum ratings in any condition, the voltages must be checked with no load at the power supply output.

Electrical Connections
Wiring Using the Screw Terminals
WARNING Make sure that you connect only de-energized wires.

1. Loosen the three long screws at the bottom of the WXT510/WMT50.
2. Pull out the WXT510/WMT50 bottom part.
3. Insert the power supply wires and signal wires through the cable gland(s) in the bottom part.
4. Connect the wires according to Table1.
5. Replace the bottom part and tighten the three screws.

Wiring Using the 8-pin M12 Connector
External Wiring
If the WXT510/WMT50 is provided with an optional 8-pin M12 connector, the connector is located on the bottom of the transmitter. The pins of the 8-pin M12 connector as seen from outside the transmitter are illustrated in the following figure.

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Volvo 480 Road Test pdf

Volvo co-build with Renault (who use it in the R11 and R21) and which also appears in Volvo’s 300 series. For the 480 though, it’s gained multi- point fuel injection and Bosch engine management electronics. Power has risen to 109bhp at 5800rpm (up from the 81bhp of the carburettor version) with torque of 103lb ft peaking at 4000rpm. This high compression ‘low friction’ engine sits transversely between the front driving wheels, mounted in unit with a five-speed transaxle on a detachable subframe. Later, sometime in 1987, Volvo proraise an automatic option for the 480 along with a more powerful 1.7 turbo version offering 125bhp - and also anti lock brakes. As tested, the 480 ran with four wheel disc braking.

At the front, suspension is conventional enough with MacPherson struts, lower wishbones and roll bar. However Volvo engineers have spent quite some time ensuring that the car doesn’t suffer from any anti-social front-drive habits such as wheel scrabbling under power and poor traction, so have modified the suspension bushing accordingly. Also present are near equal-length driveshafts, which help keep the car stable under hard acceleration. Rear suspension, consisting of a dead beam axle, coil-sprung and located by a Panhard rod and Watts linkages seems more designed for predictable, sporting handling rather than optimum ride comfort. Although non-independent, it is an effective, well-proven design, nevertheless.

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Carbon Fibre Designs How To Tutorial I

At Synapse Motorsport Inc. we are frequently asked to fabricate parts. Since there is a lot
of interest in these techniques I thought I’d show a few techniques to help you along.
This should take the mystery out of carbon fiber. This high tech material can easily be used to add that special effect to your car. The investment in materials is small and the procedures used do not require any high tech equipment. If you follow along you will be able to make your own parts.

Any new thing requires some effort but it’s very easy. The best place to start is with rather simple forms and build up to more complex projects. In this book I’ll be taking you through flat forms to overlays. Flat forms- instrument panels, door inserts basically anything, which is flat. Your success here will introduce you to resins and how to handle carbon cloth. This will form the base upon which we build.

Safety the resins used emit fumes, which can be hazardous, always work in a well- ventilated area, and wear eye protection and an appropriate mask. Disposable rubber gloves are important.etc.

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Carbon Fiber Tutorial II pdf

This second part covers a lot of ground but the techniques can be used for complex projects. To demonstrate how to make a two part mold I’ve decided to mold a tube which could be use to make charge pipes, etc.

All the usual disclaimers_the chemicals are hazardous so use adequate protection. This tutorial is how I do it. There are other methods which may be superior. If you choose to try these procedures its at your own risk.

First I wax the part thoroughly will mold release wax. I put on at least six coats. Wait till each coat dries and buff. I use clay to form my parting lines along with foam board.

I cut the clay into long strips which will be applied to the part. This is followed by the foam board which is pressed firmly against the clay and the back size is hot glued to the part. Important is the parting line is placed on each center line of the tube.

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Volkswagen Manual Gearbox 02T Design and Function

With the new 02T 5/6-speed manual gearbox of the MQ200 series, Volkswagen has succeeded in developing an ultra-light twin-shaft gearbox. The housing is manufactured from magnesium. The gearbox can transmit up to 200 Nm of torque and is used throughout the Group in combination with various engines ranging from the A00 class to the A class. The final drive ratios and the ratios of the individual gears can be matched to the power outputs of the various engines.

The type diversity within the gear and final drive ratios allows an optimum compromise to be found between sporty and economical gearbox design for all automotive applications. The gearbox is operated by means of selector cables. The clutch control is hydraulic.
The development goals for the new gearbox were as follows:
– Easy and exact gear-changes
– Optimal efficiency
– Low weight
– Modular technology
– Standard cable-operated gearbox

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Volvo Roof Mounted Bicycle Holder

INTRODUCTION
• NOTE! Read through the entire text before carrying out any work.
• The front page gives the date of this edition and the edition it replaces
• The second page shows the tools needed for the installation and the contents of the installation kit
• The illustrations display the procedure in order of operation. The order of operation is repeated in the text section
• Cut out the text page in order to follow the illustrations and text at the same time.

Bicycle holder, roof mounted
NOTE! Important:
• Regularly check that the load carriers are properly secured
• Regularly check that the bicycle and bicycle holder are properly secured
• Handling is affected by the actual load and its position. The centre of gravity of the car changes when driving with a load, which affects the handling of the car. Adjust your speed accordingly
• The load increases the total height of the car which affects accessibility. Be aware of low roofs and entrances.

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Audi A6 Instrument panel pdf

Removing steering column switch
Driver’s side airbag unit and steering wheel removed.
- Pull out steering column and tilt downward as far as it will go.
- Remove screws -1-(2x). Tightening torque: 2.8 Nm (25.2 in lb)
- Remove grip - 2-.
- Remove two Phillips-head screws -arrows-. Tightening torque: 0.6 Nm (5.4 in lb)
- Remove upper steering column switch trim -1-.
When installing, insert upper section into hooks on lower section, swivel downward and secure with screws

- Remove screws -2- (2x). Tightening torque: 0.6 Nm (5 in lb)
- Remove hex socket head bolt -1-.Tightening torque: 0.6 Nm (5 in lb)
- Remove lower steering column switch trim - 3-.
- Separate connection -1-.
- Release locking lugs -arrows- and pull coil connector with slip ring off steering column switch.
Note:
The steering must be in the center position (wheels in straight-ahead position) when the coil connector and slip ring are removed and installed.

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How To Unsolder The ECU Chip In A 95 Volkswagen GTI VR6 pdf

Equipment/supplies needed:
Soldering iron: I have a Weller soldering unit whose power is variable from 0-40W. I used around 20-30W during the de-soldering process, and 40W when soldering in the socket 1/16″ or 1/8″ soldering braid: soldering braid is a flat braid of fine copper wires. It is used to wick away molten solder. To use it, put it on the solder to be removed, press the tip of the soldering iron onto the braid and hold until the solder melts and is wicked into the braid.
OR
A “desoldering tool”: supposedly you can buy this at Radio Shack. I could not find one locally so I didn’t use it. It’s supposedly a soldering iron w/ a built-in suction device which allows you to melt the solder & suck it away all in one operation. If you can find this, I think it will make unsoldering the chip MUCH easier.

OR
A “solder sucker”: a vacuum bulb thingy that will suck the solder away as you are melting it. Rosin core solder: get as fine a solder as you can. I used a very fine solder, which I think made it easier to control the amount of solder being put down. A 28 pin socket. When buying the socket, bring your chip & test to make sure it fits. Buy as high quality a socket as you can find.

Procedure:
First remove the ECM. Follow these instructions.
Use the solder braid and soldering iron to melt & wick away solder from the OEM chip’s pins. Since the board is fairly thick, you will need to work on both sides of the board to get all the solder out. A clean hole should resemble a hole, and have no solder in it. Alternate between pins at either end of the chip, and stop if the chip gets so hot that you can’t hold a finger on it indefinitely. This process took me 2+ hours.

BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE CHIP: make a mark on the board at the end of the chip that has the semi-circular “notch”; that will remind you which way to put the the socket in (the socket has the same notch as the chip). Don’t be like me and put the socket in with the notch at the wrong end! Once all the holes are clean, insert a flat blade screwdriver under the chip, and lever the chip out. First twist the handle, using the width of the screwdriver blade as the lever. When the chip is loosened, rock the screwdriver back and forth lengthwise to lever the chip out.

Use the solder braid to thoroughly clean the board around the holes and the holes themselves. Insert the socket, match up its notch with the mark on the board. Working on the underside of the board, heat up each pin on the socket for 6-7 seconds then apply the solder. The solder should melt immediately and be sucked down into the pin’s hole.

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Toyota Supra MkIII Handbook

Instrument Panel Overview
The master key works in every lock. The sub-key will not work in the glovebox. To protect things locked in the glovebox when you have your vehicle parked, leave the subkey with the attendant. Since the doors can be locked without a key, you should always carry a spare master key in case you accidentally lock your keys inside the vehicle.

Keep the key number plate in a safe place such as your wallet, not in the vehicle. If you should lose your keys or if you need additional keys, duplicates can be made by a Toyota dealer using the key number. You should also put a copy of the key number with your important papers.

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850 AWD Technical Data

The 850 AWD with manual transmission M58, has permanent four-wheel drive with variable power distribution to the wheels. Distribution of driving power to the wheels depends on the condition of the road surface and driving conditions. Distribution changes to provide the best possible grip and traction. The system includes the TRACS system for the front wheels and a differential lock for the rear wheels.

Note! Cars with AWD are not designed or built for off-road driving!
The 850 AWD will initially be available:
as a station wagon with engine B5254T with manual transmission M58 in Europe, Canada and certain Overseas markets.
For further information about the 850 AWD, see VCC-049156 (IE not found) , Service Manual All-wheel drive (AWD), 850 1997-

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Audi TT Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system, checking pdf

The Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system causes the catalytic converter to heat up more quickly, resulting in earlier operating readiness following cold start.

Principle
Due to over-enrichment of the mixture during the cold start phase, there is an increased amount of uncombusted carbon monoxide in the exhaust. Secondary Air Injection (AIR) improves secondary oxidation in the catalytic converter and therefore reduces emissions. The heat produced by secondary oxidation greatly reduces start-up time for the catalytic converter, therefore improving exhaust quality during the cold start phase significantly

Function
In the cold start phase, the ECM -2- activates the secondary air pump - 12- via the relay for Secondary Air Injection (AIR) pump -1-. Air reaches the combination valve for Secondary Air Injection (AIR) -10-. The Secondary Air Injection (AIR) valve -3- is activated in parallel, which allows the vacuum to reach the combination valve for Secondary Air Injection (AIR) -10- and the vacuum diaphragm for charge air pressure regulation -7-. The combination valve for Secondary Air Injection (AIR)

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MKIII 2.0 Golf/Jetta Rear Disk Brake DIY

Basic Rules, clean brake fluid up with cold water. Keep all fluids, water, dirt, and oil out of the brake system (except for clean brake fluid). Keep all and any grease off pads, shoes, and rotor brake surfaces. If pads become contaminated with grease or oil, throw them out and buy new ones. If rotors become oily, clean them with brake clean, or hot soapy water.

Pretty easy, you need rear brakes. This DIY will help you take them apart, clean, and install new pads, rotors, and bearings. For the most part the same rules and tools apply as a front brake job. However, it is absolutely necessary to have a seal driver set, and a disk brake real caliper retractor tool.

I strongly suggest that if you have never done a brake job, do the fronts fist. Or at least read up on that DIY. Before you do this make sure the parking brake works 100% if it does NOT your calipers may be frozen (stuck) and this job is hard and pointless!!!

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Volvo V50 Technical Data pdf

E N G I N E S
Type
Configuration
Displacement, cm
Bore (mm)
Stroke (mm)
Engine cylinder block material
Cylinderhead material
Combustion chamber type
Compression ratio
Valves, no/cylinder
Camshafts
Engine management system
Ignition sequence
Engine idling speed, rpm
Fuel, rec. octane
Max output, kW (hp)/rpm.
Max torque, Nm/rpm

TRANSMISSIONS
5- or 6-speed manual gearbox.
5-speed adaptive automatic transmissions with Geartronic,
electronically controlled, with lock-up and winter mode selection

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Audi A6 Cabin Filter Installation Guide pdf

Replacement interval 15.000 km/10,000 miles or after 12 months

Tools needed are a Phillips screwdriver. Open the hood. Notice the cover for the cabin filter is on the cowl on the passenger side. Remove the screw form the cover.

Remove the cover by pulling toward the front of the vehicle. The filter is now visible. Remove by pushing up on the filter to loosen from housing and then pulling out toward the front of the vehicle.
Replace with clean cabin filter. Replace cover by lining up the notches on either side of the cover plate to the grooves in the filter housing. Replace the screw in the cover plate.

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Toyota Camry Charging System pdf

The generator is a small, high speed, high performance type with an voltage regulator incorporat– ed. The voltage regulator uses integrated circuits and controls the voltage produced by the generator.

PRECAUTION
1. Check that the battery cables are connected to the correct terminals.
2. Disconnect the battery cables when the battery is given a quick charge.
3. Do not perform tests with a high voltage insulation resistance tester.
4. Never disconnect the battery while the engine is running.

When the ignition switch is turned ON, current from the battery flows from terminal L of the generator through the voltage regulator to terminal E, causing the discharge warning light to light up.

Then when the engine is started, the voltage output increases as the generator rpm increases. When the voltage output becomes greater than the battery voltage, current for recharging flows from terminal B. Simultaneously, voltage at terminal L increases and the potential difference between battery and terminal L disappears, causing the discharge warning light to go off. When the voltage output exceeds the regulator adjustment voltage, the transistor inside the voltage regulator regulates the voltage so that the voltage from the generator remains constant.

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VW 1998 Jetta GLX or VR6 GTI PCV valve Modification

Materials:
(1) Plastic Epoxy (fast setting type) I used Loctite Plastic Epoxy (sets in 7 minutes)
(2) 1 foot of ¾ inch (ID) radiator/heater hose. You only need about 3” but this is the minimum you could buy at the Autozone.
(3) Heater connectors (see below) I got mine from the Autozone, but you could use a similar item I guess. These fit perfectly in the existing hole on the valve which is handy… just as an fyi. (Help part number: 47065)
(4) Minimum Two hose clamps sized for the heater hose. You can get more if you want to clamp everything down, like I did.
(5) Some carburator cleaner.

Remove the entire intake pipe. Not exactly required, but it will be a good time to clean it out and get some of the “gunked” on oil residue off. On mine it was all over the place. Removing the intake pipe is a little different on some of the older VR6 models, but on the 98 this will involve loosening the two hose clamps on the intake hose (MAF and TB), the PCV vacuum line and the torn PCV hose/boot (else you probably would not be reading this…) connected to the valve cover. (Sorry no pics)..

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Fitting Volvo Glass Mounted GSM Antenna pdf

Glass mounted GSM combined antenna WARNING! On S40, V40, S60 V70 (00-) and S80 cars with inflatable curtains, the wiring must not be routed above the side windows. This would jeopardise the function of the inflatable curtain in the event of a collision

NOTE! When installing on the rear windscreen, the antenna must not be installed on the heating loops in the windscreen. However, the antenna is not affected by the area of the windscreen shaded black.

The antenna is positioned as described below:
NOTE! The temperature of the windscreen must not be lower than +10°C.
Illustration A does not apply to the S40, V40, S60, V70 (00-) or S80 Windscreen. In the top right-hand corner of the windscreen.
Illustration B does not apply to the S60 or S80 Rear windscreen, 4 door. At the top centre of the rear windscreen.
Illustration C does not apply to the V70 (00-) Right rear side window, 5 door. At the top rearmost point of the side window.
Illustration D applies to the V40 and V70 (00-) Left rear side window, 5 door. At the top rearmost point of the side window.
Illustration E applies to the S40, S60 and S80 Rear windscreen, 4 door with high level stop (brake) lamps. In the top right hand corner of the rear windscreen.

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VW MKIV Golf Jetta Mass Air Flow Cleaning DIY pdf

This is a guide to cleaning the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, infamously known to VW owners as a problem part. This problem seems to have become more widespread with the release of the Mk. IV platform, which is apparently due to a bad batch of sensors from the Bosch factory. Although most of the faulty MAFs have been weeded out after having failed on their owners, the more hardy MAFs often survive until just after the car’s warranty expires. In most cases the owner is left holding a bill for several hundred dollars for a new MAF and labor costs.

The reason this guide was created is to help those owners who are having trouble with their MAFs. Symptoms include poor gas mileage, reduced power, poor engine performance, and often result in the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp, also known as the “check engine light”)being triggered. This guide was designed specifically for people who either have had no positive results after multiple dealer visits regarding MAF related service, or are out of their warranty period.

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LGR250 Control Module Technical Instructions

The LGR250 is a general purpose control module that you can use for a variety of applications. For example, the LGR250 can act as a controller, a BACnet router, and a protocol translator.

To mount the LGR250
Screw the LGR250 into an enclosed panel using the mounting holes provided on the cover plate. Leave about 2 in. (5 cm) on each side of the control module for wiring.

Wiring for power
CAUTIONS
• The LGR250 is a Class 2 device (less than 30 Vac, 100 VA). Take appropriate isolation measures when mounting it in a control panel where non-Class 2 devices (120 Vac or greater) are present.
• Do not power pilot relays from the same transformer that powers the LGR250.

To wire for power
1 Turn off the LGR250’s power to prevent it from powering up before you can verify the correct voltage.
2 Remove power from the power supply.
3 Pull the screw terminal connector from the control module’s power terminals labeled 24V ac/dc and Ground.
4 Connect the transformer wires to the screw terminal connector.
5 Apply power to the power supply.
6 Measure the voltage at the LGR250’s power input terminals to verify that the voltage is within the operating range of 21.6–26.4 Vac.
7 Insert the screw terminal connector into the LGR250’s power terminals.
8 Turn on the LGR250’s power.
9 Verify that the Run LED (a dot in the lower right corner of the Module Status LED) begins blinking. The Module Status LED will show a chase pattern when the control module is running with no errors.

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Volvo S40 Technical Data pdf

ENGINES
Type
Configuration
Displacement, cm
Bore (mm)
Stroke (mm)
Engine cylinder block material
Cylinderhead material
Combustion chamber type
Compression ratio
Valves, no/cylinder
Camshafts
Engine management system
Ignition sequence
Engine idling speed, rpm
Fuel, rec. octane
Max output, kW (hp)/rpm.
Max torque, Nm/rpm.

Manual gearbox/final drive
Automatic gearbox/final drive
PErForMaNCE
Gearbox
Acceleration, 0–100 km/h (sec)
Top speed, km/h
Fuel consumption l/100 km (Combined)
CO 2 g/km

TraNSMISSIoNS
5- or 6-speed manual gearbox.
5-speed adaptive automatic transmissions with Geartronic, electronically controlled, with lock-up

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Volkswagen MKIII Parking Brake (Disk) Cable Replacement

Why do this?
Simple, its below freezing one night, and then the next morning you go to move your car, and now its stuck… Or you yank as hard as you can, and engage the parking brake, then when you release it, your car won’t move.

What happens?
Water migrates into the cables, and freezes and rusts over time. It seems the average life of a set of cables is 3-4 years. Part of the issue is a basic design flaw (yea, I said it) in how the cables are routed. A small rubber boot covers the cable at the rear, near the calipers. The if the boot gets cracked, torn, or dry-rots water can enter the cable as its kicked up by wheel splash. The water then gets trapped in the cable and sits and rusts. When it gets below freezing, well, of course it freezes. The drum brake setup does not have this rubber boot, and does not have this issue. HERE is a video of what happens when the cables get stuck, note the slack on the handle (do not make fun of my brake handle!!! Its far cooler than yours!!

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Volvo B4184S8 Flexifuel Engine for the S40 and V50 pdf

The FlexiFuel engine is a 1.8 litre engine adapted for E85 fuel. E85 consists of a mixture of 85 % ethanol and 15 % 95-octane petrol. However, the Engine Control Module (ECM) can also adapt all fuel mixtures from 100 % petrol to just E85. The FlexiFuel engine is basically a B4184S11 which has been modified to cope with the major stresses that operating with E85 entails.

FlexiFuel and the environment
Operating with E85 is considered carbon dioxide neutral. This means that the same quantity of carbon dioxide released during combustion is reabsorbed and bound by vegetation and plants. In this way a type of cycle is formed. Fossil fuels (such as petrol and diesel) only add carbon dioxide as there is no organic material that binds the carbon dioxide. Fuel consumption with E85 increases by between 35-40 % because E85 has a lower energy content than normal petrol.

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VW Golf / Jetta OBD1 Chip Install Instructions pdf

Please read the installation procedure listed below as it will save you time (and possibly parts) in the long run. After installation…enjoy! Caution! Be aware that E-PROM’s are static-sensitive devices, and so are the chips in your control unit. Avoid replacing chips in high static areas, and avoid touching the pins of any integrated circuit / E-PROM.

1. Open hood and remove the rubber seal laying on the top edge of the firewall. Remove the plastic raintray and locate the control unit. It is located on the driver’s side on Golf and Jetta 2 models, the passenger side on Passat and A3 models.

2. Remove the 10mm nuts holding the control unit frame to the body of the car. Slide out the frame/control unit and remove the harness connector on A2 models by pulling back on the steel locating/retaining tab, and rotating it away from the control unit. On A3 and Passat VR6 models, remove the harness connector by pulling the black tab parallel to the connector. This will push the entire connector out as it rides on pins on the ECU. Separate the control unit from the frame by removing the large Phillips head screws holding the control unit to the frame and slide the control unit from the frame.

3. To open the control unit, use a Phillips screwdriver or a Torx driver (depends on control unit) to remove the four screws at the connector end, (and at the heat sink end on KE-Motronic) and slide the electrical section out from the black outer casing.

4. Examine the chips on the board. The chip that you will be replacing will be the only one set into a socket, and will usually have a white “H” shaped plastic retainer covering it. If you do not see any socketed chips, call Autotech before proceeding any further.

5. Before removing the stock chip, take note of the location of the notch at the top of the chip. It is mandatory that the Q-chip be installed in exactly the same position! If you install the Q-chip backwards, you will damage your control unit as well as the Q-chip. Remove the stock chip by first removing the white retaining clip, then gently pry out the chip from the socket, using a small screwdriver between the two. Note! To prevent bending the pins, change sides often until the chip is completely removed. Autotech will not be responsible for chips with pin damage.

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Rust-protecting a Volvo pdf

0ne of the many reasons why the Volvo has become such a popular and sought after car is because it has been built for Swedish conditions and above all, to stand up to the Swedish climate. Volvo cars are given extremely effective protective treatment against the depredations of rust. Of all the makes of cars in Sweden it is the Volvo PV 544 which best withstands the ravages of rust.

In the autumn 1957 Volvo brought into use a new plant for rust-protective treatment or phosphating as it is known in the trade. At this time the roto-dip plant, which had been in use for more than 10 years, had served its purpose. This roto-dip was one of the very first to be built. The basic principle of this was that the car bodies, mounted on jigs, were fed cross-wise on to a conveyor and, while slowly rotating, were passed through a series of degreasing and phosphating baths. The bodies were dipped in each bath at the same time as jets were sprayed over them. The last section consisted of a paint bath (without sprays) where the whole body was dipped into synthetic primer and an oven where it was dried off.

This plant had a capacity of 11 bodies per hour. In the meantime Volvo’s production increased by leaps and bounds and the capacity of the roto-dip became more and more insufficient. It was not possible to alter the speed of the conveyor. Finally it was decided to install a completely new plant and to use only sprays in the various processes. Dipping was resorted to only to cover the lower portion of the body. In this way Volvo went over to the current type of plant used by the most modern car factories in Europe and America.

By the use of spraying the process times in the various sections can be cut down by less than half. The mechanical arrangement is simpler. The speed of the conveyor is adjustable so that the out-put of the plant can be exactly suited to production demands. This, and other things, means that the new plant, which occupies about the same floor space; has a production rate more than three times as great.

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Toyota Camry Maintenance Schedule pdf

Towing a trailer, using a camper or car top carrier. Repeated short trips of less than 8 km (5 miles) with outside temperature remaining below freezing. Extensive idling and/or low speed driving for long distances, such as police, taxi or door–to–door delivery use. Operating on dusty, rough, muddy or salt spread roads.

Maintenance operation:
A = Check and adjust if necessary.
R = Replace, change or lubricate.
I = Inspect and correct or replace if necessary.

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VW Passat B5 Technical Documentation

The term “platform” is frequently used in publications although its fundamental meaning is not explained. The result of this is that people are often unsure of what the term “platform” implies. The vehicle consists of a) the platform and b) the body. Design and vehicle characteristics dictate what form the body takes. In the eyes of the customer, the body characterises the styling of the vehicle as a whole.

The advantages for workshops like yourself are:
- More clarity as regards the spare parts situation
- Simplified inventory management
- Fewer different special tools and fixtures
- Easier assembly and repair

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VW MKIII Total Suspension Rebuild pdf

Rebuilding the suspension is no small task. In this case, the rebuild consisted of an H&R Cup Kit and the replacement of two control arms with new Prothane polyeurethane bushings. The Cup Kit, bushings, and a “suspension refresh” kit were purchased from Potterman’s. The control arms were purchased from Adirondack Auto Brokers.

There are some things to know about doing the suspension before you go jumping into it. Most cars are equipped with some type of MacPherson strut suspension, and according to Chassis Engineering by Herb Adams, “…strut-type front suspensions became popular on production cars in the late 1970’s because they offered a simple and inexpensive configuration that doesn’t take up much space. It is particularly well-suited to front-wheel-drive production cars, because it allows room for the front drive axle to pass through the front hub.”(40) Adams then goes on to explain that a MacPherson strut setup is not used very often on true race cars because
1) It does not allow for wide tires and wheels without rolling fenders or increasing the scrub radius
2) There is little camber gain possible
3) Strut suspensions require large cowl heights, so it limits the lowering height of a low-profile race car

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Mitsubishi Colt Rodeo E-brochure

Colt Rodeo: There is life after work
If you like rugged reliability, appreciate thoroughbred performance and admire state-of–the-art engineering, you’ll love the Colt Rodeo. Built for those who work to live rather than live to work. So if you are looking for a status symbol, a recreational vehicle or a tireless workhorse the Colt rodeo is the one for you.

More than just designer looks
Luxury is synonymous with the Colt Rodeo which provides you with wealth of top-of-the range features and benefits you will be hard pressed to find in more expensive marques. The vehicle is masculine, aggressive, and purposeful. Exterior appearance complements the under-the-hood power

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2008+ Mitsubishi Lancer QuickLIFT Installation Guide

Remove all items from the packing tube. You should have the following before beginning:
* (2) Gas springs (RT-QL-170-A6A) - Be sure to cycle them a few times before installing.
* (4) #2-3/16″ Multi-grip rivets (used on hood brackets)
* (2) ball-studs and washers each with a locking nut.
* (2) mounting brackets
* Printed Color Instructions
* Gas Spring locking clips - (Already installed in the gas spring ball-ends - Remove before assembly)

Please gather the following tools before you begin the installation:
* Power Drill
* 3/16″, indexed #11 & 5/16″ drill bits
* Fine permanent marker or felt tip pen
* Tape measure or ruler
* Masking tape
* Hammer & center punch
* Rivet gun,capable of 3/16″ rivets (most brands can handle this size)
Note: Only use the rivets supplied in the QuickLIFT system.

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Mitsubishi Colt XLS hatchback Road Test Report

As the popular Mirage disappears from Mitsubishi’s local line-up, the Colt nameplate returns, ready to battle it out in the premium small car sector. Its stylish “mono-box” design, (more compact people mover than hatchback), features a panoramic front screen and upright abbreviated tail. Only one drivetrain is on offer for our market – the 1.5litre MIVEC four cylinder mated to Mitsubishi’s automatic INVECS III CVT (continuously variable transmission).

Finding a good driving position is easy with the Colt’s generous seat height adjustment and tilt steering wheel – but the hard edged centre dash and parking brake can get in the way. While they may not be large, the front seats proved comfortable enough in the suburban crawl. Though minimal lateral support means there isn’t much to hold you in place along tight and twistingroads. With 150mm of travel and excellent headroom the rear seat is comfortable enough for short trips, but the cushion’s flat shape works against it on longer hauls.

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Oto Olli Owners Manual

This belt-positioning booster seat (booster seat) is designed for use by children who meet these requirements: Weight: 40–100 pounds/18–45 kilograms, and Height: 40–57 inches/101–145 centimeters.

Checklist for proper use
For proper use read and understand all instructions and booster seat labels.
- Child weighs between 40 and 100 pounds/18 and 45 kilograms, height is between 40 and 57 inches/101 and 145 centimeters
- Child is sitting in the booster seat in a forward facing seating position in a rear seat of the vehicle
- The tops of the child’s ears are below the top of the vehicle seat back or the vehicle seat’s fully deployed headrest
- Shoulder belt crosses midpoint of the child’s chest and is not twisted
- Belt is routed correctly beneath armrests and sits low and snug on the child’s hips and is not twisted
- There is no slack in the shoulder belt
- Child is sitting upright and is not slouching
- Booster seat is securely installed with both LATCH connectors attached to LATCH lower anchors, if available.

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Mitsubishi Lancer

Every effort has been made to ensure that the contents of this publication were accurate and up-to-date at the time of going to press. The right is reserved to change specifications, partnumbers and features without prior notice. To avoid any misunderstandings your Mitsubishi Motors dealer will advise of any alterations made since the date of issue of this brochure. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, without the prior written permission of Mitsubishi Motors Europe B.V.. Some of the products or vehicles shown in the brochure may differ from the models available in your market.

Why bother with accessories, you might ask. Just throw everything you can think of at the design board and you’ve got the perfect automobile. Well, one reason for options and accessories is that your definition of perfection is more likely to differ from ours than it is to coincide with it. Another is that cars reflect people’s individual style, taste and character. We’re all different and we like to be seen to be different. So, what we at Mitsubishi Motors have done, is build a Lancer that’s packed with the latest in automotive technology, that meets and exceeds the demands of modern and everyday motoring, but that leaves the definition of perfection up to you. The wide range of options and accessories in this brochure will enable you to tailor your new Lancer to suit your needs in every respect.

Lancer (background) shown with front airdam, black upper grille, black front bumper styling foil, alloy brushed fog lamp rings, side airdam with black foil, carbon mirror covers, b-pillar decoration foil, large sporty rear spoiler and 18” alloy wheels.

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Mazda RX-7 Turbo Timer Installation

This document details the installation of my GReddy Turbo Timer, and also gives a brief set of instructions that explains how the device is used (since the instructions are in Japanese.)

Tools Necessary:
• Phillips Screwdriver
• 10 mm socket wrench
• Coat Hanger - Only if installing Parking Brake security
• Electrical Tape
• Nylon cable-ties
• GReddy Turbo Timer (Surprise!)
• Bracket and wire-splicers provided with Turbo Timer
• Turbo Timer Wiring Harness (specific to RX-7) - Optional

Background:
After having to sit through idle down periods for more than a year, I decided that it was time to get a Turbo Timer. The idea behind a Turbo Timer is that after hard driving, or other conditions under which the turbo is active, the turbos (predictably enough) get very, very hot. If the engine is shut down under these circumstances, the engine oil stops circulating, and the oil in the turbo bearings ‘cokes,’ shortening the life of the bearing (basically, the oil sits in the bearings, cooks, and turns to gritty sludge.)

Leaving the engine sit at idle for a minute or so after the car’s shut off allows the engine to circulate through the bearings enough to cool them down to sub-fusion temperatures, preventing (or at least reducing) bearing wear.

Unfortunately, it’s often a big pain in the butt to sit in the car for a couple of minutes after a session of driving. Thus, the good people of HKS and GReddy have invented “Turbo Timers” which idle your engine for a specific amount of time after you remove the key from the ignition, allowing you to leave the car, while the engine idles for a while, and then shuts off.

I select the GReddy device instead of the HKS device because the GReddy unit is significantly cheaper, and the HKS device has features which I probably will never use (stopwatch, etc.)

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Used-Car Gems First Car Buyer’s Guide

Every member of the Drive team can fondly recall his or her first car. Irrespective of cost, looks or age, your first car is always special. It is a gateway into a whole new world of personal freedom. Whether you want to just need a city runabout or embark on a trans-continental road trip to the other side of Australia, a car can take you there.

To help ease your passage into the world of motoring, Drive’s First-Car Buyer’s Guide arms you with everything you need to know to choose the right first car for you. As well as expert recommendations on good first cars, we offer advice on obtaining your driver’s licence, how to find the right car, and how to look after it once you’ve done the deal. Happy reading, and enjoy your motoring.

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Towing Guide for Mitsubishi Motors

Whether you want to tow a trailer, caravan, horse float or boat, the Mitsubishi Pajero is the vehicle for the job. With a towing capacity of 2500kg, sure-footed stance and ample power the Pajero can safely and capably tow a wide range of trailers. Mitsubishi Motors’ Parts and Accessory division is able to supply towing equipment specifically designed for the Pajero and that meets all the relevant Australian Design Rules and Standards.

As well as the towing equipment, all aspects of the Pajero have been carefully engineered to ensure that you will be totally satisfied with the towing performance of the vehicle, and that the long-term reliability for which the Pajero is well known, will not be affected.

This Towing Guide has been produced by Misubishi Motors in conjunction with BIG4 Holiday Parks, to assist Pajero owners to select the correct equipment as well as offering advice on loading and towing a trailer. The information in this guide together with that in the vehicle’s Owner’s Manual will provide you and your family with many years of safe and enjoyable motoring.

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Auto Dismantlers Guide to Recycling Mercury Switches

Mercury in Maine’s environment is a problem, particularly for infants and young children. The Environmental Protection Agency estimates that 630,000 infants are born every year in the United States with unsafe levels of mercury in their blood.

Mercury emissions from human activity contribute to the problem. Sources include commonly used products that contain mercury. For example, fluorescent lamps sold in the U.S. in 2001 are reported to contain over 9 tons of mercury. Mercury is released when the lamps break, as inevitably happens when they are put in the trash. Although each lamp has only a few milligrams of mercury, over two million of them are sold in Maine every year.

In the case of motor vehicles, mercury is released when scrapped vehicles are shredded and smelted to make recycled steel. The Maine DEP estimates that motor vehicles in Maine currently contain about 1500 pounds of mercury in convenience light and ABS switches. Most of this mercury eventually will be released to the air unless these switches are removed before the vehicles are crushed.

This is why the Maine Legislature created a program to get these switches out before vehicles are flattened for recycling. Under the program, auto dismantlers and automakers share responsibility. Your role as a dismantler or salvage yard operator is to remove the switches and store them for recycling. Automakers will recycle the switches and pay you $4 per switch with a vehicle identification number to help offset your removal costs.

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Quick Guide to JAF Services

As a public-service organization with a membership of about 17 million, JAF is dedicated to providing auto users services that enhance their safety and their sense of security, while aggressively promoting campaigns for road safety and smooth running of traffic, thereby contributing to the sound development of motorized society. JAF’s activities are described in the following section.

Road service
JAF’s road service is constantly on stand-by to respond to emergency calls from auto users. The annual number of calls attended by JAF’s road service reaches about 3 million, equivalent to one every 10.5 seconds. Supported by its road service network comprising some 250 directly-managed service bases and a number of designated contracted garages around the country, JAF’s road service crew is ready 24 hours a day, 365 days a year to come to the rescue of vehicles including motorcycles in distress.

Campaign to promote traffic safety
In many parts of the country, JAF holds interactive training courses on safe driving including the Safety Training and Senior Drivers’ School, and interactive courses which offer advice on the proper use of child restraints or how to conduct daily automobile checkups.

Measures to protect the environment
JAF launches the Eco-Drive Promotion Campaign, which encourages motorists to drive in a way that would minimize carbon dioxide emissions that contribute to global warming. Also, JAF is working to acquire the ISO14001 certification at all regional branches, the international standard for environmental management system.

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Mitsubishi V6 Plenum Removal Guide for 8G Galant’s & 3G Eclipse’s

Tools required:
• ratchet with 10mm, 12mm, & 14mm sockets
• spark plug socket (17mm??)
• 3″ & 9″ extensions for ratchet
• pliers ‐ one regular and one needle nose
• jewelers flathead screwdriver
• can of compressed air or air hose (optional)
• can of carburetor cleaner
• clean rags and newspaper
• one quart size plastic bottle like motor oil or a sturdy piece of wood or simular about that height used to prop up the air intake plenum
• security code (if you have stock radio)
• one tiewrap if you have to cut the one under air intake hose (optional)

Removal of air intake plenum:
First of all, the task at hand is really easier than it appears. The only thing is… it takes time. If you know nothing about cars or what things are under the hood, I suggest you take a look at figure 18 and see if this is comprehendible to you. If it is and you have the tools and feel comfortable, please proceed. If not, I suggest you find a qualified mechanic instead of doing it yourself. The plenum itself is actually very easy to unbolt, only 13 bolts & nuts hold it in place. (fig. 19) What makes it complicated is all the other stuff you have to unbolt and move out of the way so your plenum is free to completely flip up and give you full access to the sparkplugs.

To make things easier, after you unbolt the item and move it out of the way, always put the bolts back into that socket when you can. This way, there is less bolts to remember where they should go. For the other bolts that you have to remove, place them on an unfolded newspaper relative to the position of the plenum. Just picture the center of the newspaper as your plenum and place the bolts onto the newspaper in the same relative position to help you remember where they go later.

Let me give you some general information first so you will get a better picture of what we are attempting to do and what it is that we are moving out of the way for our ultimate task. Yes we are attempting to move the plenum out of the way, but there are some things that are attached to the plenum we really don’t have to worry about. (fig. 6 & 7) These things will stay connected and moved together with the plenum as one piece. They are the throttle body, throttle cable adjustment bracket, all EGR vacuum hoses and valves. I will be referring to the 22 pictures below throughout the instructions.

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2008 MAZDA5 Vehicle Specifications

Interior for this 2008 MAZDA5:
12V power outlets, front & rear (cargo area)
Air Conditioning with second row cool air vents (with fan-speed controls) & pollen filter
Automatic climate control
Bluetooth® hands-free phone system
Center console storage compartment
Coat hooks (2)
Coin holder
Cruise control with steering wheel-mounted controls
Cup holders, (2) front; (2) second row - in fold-out tray table; and (2) third row - in side panel
Rear window defogger
Delayed courtesy lights (front map lights, rear dome light)
Front side window demisters
Power door locks / double action
Driver’s side seatback storage pocket
Carpeted floor mats
Front door storage pockets with bottle holders
Illuminated glove compartment with lock
eater/defroster
Ignition key illumination
Instrument panel display, center (clock, audio, A/C, outside temperature)
Map lights, front
Mirrors, vanity / driver & passenger / covered
Mirror, day/night rearview
Moonroof, power with interior sunshade (5AT only)
Parking brake handle, urethane
Passenger assist grips (3)
Remote keyless illuminated entry
Remote releases, fuel door and hood
2nd row fold-out tray table w/cargo storage & dual cupholders
Steering wheel-mounted audio controls
Steering wheel, urethane
Steering wheel, leather-wrapped

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2005 MAZDA3 Vehicle Specifications

Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) with Electronic Brakeforce Distribution (EBD)
Dual front seat-mounted side-impact air bags
Side-impact front and rear air curtains

Power sliding glass moonroof with sunshade
In-dash 6-disc CD changer

Power windows with driver’s one-touch-down feature
Body-color dual power remote door mirrors
Power door locks
Remote keyless illuminated entry system
Driver’s seat height and lumbar support adjustment
Cruise control with illuminated steering-wheel mounted controls
6-speaker sound system (includes 2 tweeter speakers & 4 full-range
door speakers)
16-inch alloy wheels with P205/55R16 H-rated all-season tires

Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) with Electronic Brakeforce Distribution
(EBD)
Dual front seat-mounted side-impact air bags
Side-impact front and rear air curtains
Xenon High-Intensity Discharge (HID) headlights (low beam,
manual-leveling)
Tire pressure monitoring system
Thet deterrent security system

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DVD Rear Seat Entertainment System User’s Guide

Your vehicle is equipped with a Rear Seat DVD Entertainment System which allows you to listen to audio CDs, watch DVDs and to plug in and play a variety of standard video games. The DVD player is capable of playback of standard DVDs, CDs and CD-R/RW media. This includes CDs with MP3 format.

Please review this user manual to become familiar with the features and controls as well as the very important safety information. If you have any questions regarding the operation of your system, please call 1 (800) 231–6096. For system repair or warranty repairs, please contact your local Mazda Dealer.

Safety information
Read all of the safety and operating instructions before operating the system and retain for future reference. Do not attempt to service, repair or modify the Rear Seat DVD System. See your dealer.
Do not insert foreign objects into the DVD compartment.

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Replace your Brake Pads & Shoes with Genuine Mazda Parts

Genuine Mazda Parts and Value Products by Mazda brakes are designed to perform best for specific Mazda models, and are constantly updated to ensure that they’re the highest quality brakes available. The chart below illustrates some of the significant differences between Genuine Mazda brakes, Value Products by Mazda brakes, and after market brakes.

Engineered and tested for specific Mazda vehicles Achieve the best balance between brake noise, lining and drum/rotor life Utilize highly engineered shims, slots, and chamfers, reducing noise and increasing quality Utilize premium formulations selected by Mazda Meet federal motor vehicle safety standards Friction formulas not subject to federal regulations “Reverse engineered” for a broad range of vehicles Limited use of shims, slots and chamfers Durability and testing varies widely.

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Mazda3 - Maintenance Schedule

Follow Schedule 1 if the vehicle is operated mainly where none of the following conditions apply.
If any do apply, follow Schedule 2 (Canada and Puerto Rico residents follow Schedule 2).
- Repeated short-distance driving
- Driving in dusty conditions
- Driving with extended use of brakes
- Driving in areas where salt or other corrosive materials are being used
- Driving on rough or muddy roads
- Extended periods of idling or low-speed operation
- Driving for long periods in cold temperatures or extremely humid climates

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2005 MAZDA SPEED MX-5 Miata MECHANICAL FEATURES

1.8-liter DOHC 16-valve inline-4
IHI single-scroll turbocharger with 8.5 psig boost
Denso air-to-air intercooler
Eurospec fresh air duct
Variable intake control system

EXHAUST
Enhanced exhaust sound and pre-silencer capacity with large exhaust tip

DRIVETRAIN
Rear-wheel drive
6-speed manual overdrive transmission
Short-throw shifter and gear shot-peening treatment
Bosch torque sensing limited-slip rear differential
Power Plant Frame (PPF)

STEERING
Rack and pinion
Engine-speed-sensing variable power assist
Optimized steering rack stroke (reduced from 60.5mm to 53.2mm)

FRONT SUSPENSION
Independent double-wishbone
Gas-filled Bilstein® shock absorbers with revised valving
MAZDASPEED tuning
23mm red-painted stabilizer bar
Silver painted front suspension tower brace
REAR SUSPENSION
Independent double-wishbone suspension
Gas-filled Bilstein® shock absorbers with revised valving
MAZDASPEED tuning
14mm red-painted stabilizer bar

Get pdf 2005 MAZDA SPEED MX-5 Miata MECHANICAL FEATURES

FD Transmission Rebuild: Parts Inspection

Now that everything is disassembled, cleaned, and bagged in labeled Zip-Locs, it’s time to decide what to replace. Warning: I’m not a transmission specialist – I’m only telling you how I interpreted this. If anyone with more experience can comment on my methods, I would be happy to update this. Carefully inspect all gears and the main drive gear. Check the inside faces for signs of wear or light pits, especially if the bearing that was removed had any wear. Inspect the bearing face on the drive gear at each end.

I did not perform this inspection because I didn’t have the appropriate v-blocks and dial indicator setup. If you have access to a machine shop with these tools, you might as well do it. I simply did visual inspection of the bearing surfaces on the shaft.

I’m honestly not sure what this measures. All of the gears have a roller bearing between the gear and shaft that is much thicker than .003”, and measuring the ID with the bearing in place doesn’t sound easy to do. I don’t think the inside tips of my dial calipers would get a good reading. Maybe a transmission guru could explain this one. I just relied on visual inspection of the bearings and gears instead.

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RX-7 Logicon Repair/Replacement

Symptoms:
• Ducts do not redirect airflow when different positions are selected (i.e. Defrost, Flow towards feet, Flow towards face etc.)
• Fan does not respond to fan-speed control, or full range of speeds not available.
• Temperature slider does not adjust the mixture of warm/cold air

Solution: Resolder ‘cold’ solder joints within modules/replace parts

Tools Necessary:
• Phillips Screwdriver
• Soldering iron
• Flathead screwdriver or thin prying device

Background:
Many cars develop this problem with age. For some reason, the electronic components in the early second generation cars leave much to be desired. My car developed these symptoms slowly. Originally, the buttons would not respond immediately to button presses, necessitating either a ride over a bump on the road, or a tap to the faceplate of the logicon to engage my actual vent selection.

Eventually, the vent selector stopped working entirely. This was fine for most cases (it happened to stick in my preferred position, the ‘face’ position) but was a major problem when the windows started to fog up. So, I ended up doing the resolder job listed below.

After a while, the temperature potentiometer went south on me, as well. I ended up buying another logicon from a junkyard, and installing it as listed below. Note: It’s been mentioned to me that the symptoms of a bad logicon are almost completely indistinguishable from a bad airmix motor, which also likes to fail on these cars. If following these procedures does not help your cause, the problem could either be that you have actual component failure on the logicon PCB, or your airmix motor has gone to the great scrapyard in the sky.) Mazda likes to replace both of these when a problem arises, costing the poor consumer a huge amount of money (they like $500 for the logicon, $200 for the air-mix motor…plus labor!)
So, my recommendation to you is, try the following! It’s really not that hard, and could save you quite a bit of cash!

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Volvo Pocket Guide 2003

In 2002, Volvo Cars celebrated its 75th anniversary in a variety of ways, including a big party in Times Square, New York, and the competition of the world’s toughest sailing race – the Volvo Ocean Race. The next generation Sports Utility Vehicle, the Volvo XC90, has received a number of coveted awards. The entire year’s production quota was soon filled. We have therefore increased the production target for 2003 from 50,000 to 60,000 Volvo XC90s. At the Paris Motor Show, the wraps were pulled off the Volvo S60 R and Volvo V70 R.

America’s JD Power ranked Volvo as the best European car available in the US in terms of product quality.

Sales in 2002 dipped somewhat, primarily owing to the tougher competition in North America, while Volvo’s market share increased in Europe. Our profitability has continued to show a positive trend.

Volvo Cars is the Center of Excellence for Ford Motor Company’s safety-related work, and is the Center of Excellence for telematics within the Premier Automotive Group (PAG). In 2003, we will work hard to reach our two long-term goals to be number one in terms of customer satisfaction and by progressing further towards our long-term target of selling 600,000 cars.

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Volvo 745 Turbo Road Test 1985

This somewhat tired question is occasionally worth a re-think. If the German car is authoritative about its own excellence and the Japanese car unbeatably marketable, what is a Swedish car? A hard question. The Saab and the Volvo may have evolved from the same requirements for sturdiness, but they are as different from each other as seems possible. The Saab is nonconformist but generally European in nature, while the Volvo is probably the most American car ever to come over by boat. A truly assimilated product, the Volvo is your car next door, often taken for granted, perhaps by some people even taken to be domestic. Apple pie.

Because a fairly large portion of Volvo production-24 percent-comes to the United States, we may not realize what a small company it is. In 1983 Volvo sold just 365,000 cars, 87,700 of them in America and only 61,900 in its homeland, and Volvo expects to top the 100,000 figure in the U.S. in 1985. Almost a third of all Volvos built are station wagons, and when you think about it, it’s hard to imagine an American street with-out one. Our two busiest contributing photographers, for instance, could hardly imagine operating without theirs.

Both of them, enthusiastic drivers as well as working professionals, showed more than usual interest in this particular test car, the 740 Turbo Wagon. When the 760 series made its debut

Get pdf Volvo 745 Turbo Road Test 1985

Volvo B5254T, 850 Engine Technical Data

The Volvo 850 engine range has been extended with another engine variant B5254T. This is an engine which has been optimized for the best possible comfort. The B5254T has extremely good characteristics at low engine speeds.

Because of the engines excellent pulling power at low speed it is also used in the Volvo 850 AWD. The B5254T is also used in other 850 models and is then available with a manual transmission (M56H) or automatic transmission (AW50-42).

Gear ratios and final drive ratios are the same as for the B5234T. On cars with the B5254T comfort has been prioritized ahead of performance and therefore the boost pressure gauge in the combined instrument panel is not required.

Performance
Maximum torque is 270 Nm (199 lb.ft.) and is reached between 1800-5000 rpm. Maximum output is 142kW (193 bhp) obtained at 5100 rpm

Get pdf Volvo B5254T, 850 Engine Technical Data

850 SRS and SIPS Technical Data

Exercise extra care when carrying out repair work on cars equipped with SRS (Supplemental Restraint System)/SIPS. This is to help prevent:
1. Personal injury during the repair work.
2. Damage or function impairment in the

SRS/SIPS systems. Any work on the SRS/SIPS systems or related components in the car which could effect the SRS/SIPS systems must be carried out by an authorized Volvo workshop. Read the SRS and SIPS service manuals if in doubt.

Is the car equipped with SRS/SIPS?
If the car has the letters SRS on the steering wheel pad then it is equipped with an SRS system. Cars equipped with a passenger SRS Airbag have the letters SRS embossed on the dashboard above the glove box on the passenger side.

Cars with SRS were also equipped with pyrotechnical seat belt tensioners in the B posts from 1993 onwards. SIPS bags are only installed on SRS cars from 1995 onward. There are SIPS labels on the windshield and on the seat storage compartment to indicate the car is equipped with this system.

Get 850 SRS and SIPS Technical Data

Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems for Volvo Cars

For many years VOC members have purchased stainless steel exhaust systems at extremely competitive prices through our agent, Mr.E.W.Gore. Members are offered the following facilities. Order directly from Sterling Exhausts Ltd, Tel: 01341 241281, quoting: name, address, telephone number, membership number, vehicle details and registration number.

Immediate payment to Sterling Exhausts by credit card cheque or cash. Prices will continue to be competitive and your club will benefit from members purchases. Mr. Gore will also be available on 01386 841383 weekdays before 17.00 hours please. The manufacturer supplies systems for most Volvo cars as well as for many other makes of cars - all with their lifetime guarantee valid as long as you keep the car. Examples (not a complete list) of members’ prices including delivery, UK mainland, and 17.5% VAT, are given below.

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Volvo XC70 Model Year 2006 - Driving Dynamics

There are two powerful, five-cylinder engines available for the XC70, a petrol and a diesel. Both are turbocharged and offer the flexibility of high levels of torque at lower engine speeds.
The 2.5T petrol engine boasts four valves per cylinder with a light pressure turbo and dual continuously variable valve timing to provide stirring performance with excellent mid-range torque.
Volvo’s new D5 Euro IV turbodiesel is a refined, all aluminium unit, with 20 valves, and the latest common rail technology. It is available with a six-speed manual or a new six-speed Geartronic transmission.

In full:
At the heart of the Volvo XC70 are two powerful, five-cylinder, turbocharged engines that both deliver an impressive combination of performance and flexibility:
• 2.5T petrol: 210bhp, 320Nm of torque from 1,500rpm to 4,500 rpm; a max speed of 130mph, with 0-62mph in 8.1 seconds and emissions of 244 g/km.
• New D5 diesel: 185bhp, 400Nm of torque from 2,000rpm with Diesel Particulate Filter and Euro IV compliant; a max speed of 130mph, with 0-62mph possible in 9.5 seconds with emissions of 201g/km

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Volvo XC90 Model Year 2006 - Overview

Stylish and modern, with the flexibility of up to seven forward facing seats, powerful engines and comprehensive safety features including a Roll Over Protection System (ROPS), the Volvo XC90 is not only highly desirable, but a next generation Sports Utility Vehicle (SUV) that has taken a step ahead of other key premium brand rivals.

The XC90 is Volvo’s first SUV, and one that has made a big impact with its innovative interior, comprehensive standard specification, competitive pricing, and advanced safety standards. More than 2,200 customers placed their XC90 orders before it even arrived in UK showrooms. Volvo increased production by nearly 50 per cent to nearly 90,000 per annum to meet the global demand for the XC90, which has quickly become Volvo’s best selling model.

The XC90 has won many prestigious SUV awards, both in the USA, homeland of the SUV, and the UK, including What Car? magazine’s ‘Best 4×4’ and The Sun newspaper’s ‘SUV of the Year’.

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Troubleshooting the Ducati Ignition

You’ve lost fire in your engine. No matter how hard you pull nor how much you crank the starter motor, you can’t get a pop. With the price of parts being what it is, just replacing components to troubleshoot your system is not only foolish it can be down right expensive. It never ceases to amaze me how often operators will miss-diagnose an engine problem and then spend major money to replace perfectly good parts. This month we’ll show you some simple checks you can do to test each of the components in your Ducati ignition.

With the use of an ordinary ohm meter you can systematically find the faulty part. Testing for Spark: Before you jump to conclusions, step back and consider a few things. First the Dual Ducati ignition is very difficult to defeat. Make absolutely certain you have no spark. At less than 250 rpm the Ducati system produced no spark at all (not a weak spark, no spark). Be sure to pull your cord with a brisk full 6 to 8 foot stroke of the rope. Pulling from between your legs in the cockpit will probably not get it. Also consider if your battery is weak, old, cold, or too small (less than 18 amp/hours) you may not reach the minimum rpm to start. Of course the more you crank the less rpm you’ll get from your already drained battery. Even at higher cranking levels the spark is too weak to see in the direct sunlight. You must be in a darkened hanger or under a blanket to see the spark. If you still convinced you have no spark, grab the electrode end and see if you get bit, yes! It hurts but you won’t die. It will hurt a lot less than chasing a non-issue.

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Multifunction Instrument MODEL EFI User’s Manual

The multifunction EFI is available in a small rectangular format and a larger round package that includes magneto test switches. Other than the magneto test switches, both formats are functionally identical. Both units simultaneously display all of the following data on a large, two-line liquid crystal display (LCD). Referring to the figures, the functions are; engine RPM, AUX, two exhaust gas temperatures (EGT), two cylinder head (CHT) or one Coolant temperature, Altitude, Climb rate and Flight Time. The unit also displays total accumulated engine time (Hobbs) at the push of a button. The LCD contrast can be adjusted from the normal seating position with the up/dn switch and provides a clearly readable display over a wide range of viewing angles. In addition, the LCD is backlighted for night viewing.

The AUX function is extremely versatile in that it can be used to display volts, fuel level, oil pressure, oil temperature, outside air temperature or any other desired parameter.

The top four functions each have a REDLINE associated with them, and the redline settings can easily be displayed and changed. REDLINE settings, Flight Time and Hobbs time are retained in permanent memory which does not need power, so no data is ever lost due to a battery failure. Exceeding a REDLINE setting causes the high intensity, red WARNING light to flash and the associated LCD value to blink. Pressing the Lmts switch stops the WARNING light, but the LCD characters still blink until the situation is corrected.

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Operation - Magneti Marelli IAW

The Multi-Tester plus/pro software cassette is the component that gives the diagnostic equipment its unique test characteristics: All data required to make the test system operate are stored on the software cassette. The software cassette can be easily replaced enabling the Multi-Tester plus/pro to be rapidly adapted to the trouble-shooting job at hand. These Trouble-Shooting Instructions describe how to use the equipment on Magneti Marelli - Weber fuel injection systems type IAW. Multi-Tester plus/pro checks all input and output signals that have bearing on the control system and can also diagnose a faulty control unit.

The Magneti Marelli-Weber IAW is a fuel injection and ignition control system. The control system evaluates signals from different sensors and adjusts fuel metering and ignition accordingly. The IAW is a multi-point system with separate injectors for each cylinder, these are controlled sequentially.

Note: in order to increase the pressure in the fuel system the pump relay is activated for a specific period after the ignition is switched on. This period varies between systems and car models. If the period is very long, the Multi-Tester plus/pro may indicate an error in a static test of the pump relay signal even if it is correct.

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Installation & Tuning Instructions For all Motorcycle Applications

To get the most from your PowerCard, it is important to recognize the difference between “load,” and throttle position/RPM. For example, put your motorcycle in first gear and hold the throttle wide-open, then do the same thing in fifth. Notice how the rate of RPM change is much faster in first gear than in fifth. This is because the load in fifth gear is much higher. Any given combination of throttle position and RPM can be associated with vastly different loads. PowerCard recognizes this, and uses proprietary algorithms to apply the right amount of additional fuel in the right circumstance. The PowerCard technology is unique because it is load based and does not rely solely on throttle position and RPM; it determines load based on the output from the factory programmed ECU, which has had thousands of hours of development and uses many sensors. Once the PowerCard “knows the load”, you can adjust it to provide the extra fuel needed to get maximum performance from your modifications.

What PowerCard Does
PowerCard adds fuel. When you modify your intake/engine/exhaust, the stock engine management may not be able to handle the fueling requirements of increased air flow. PowerCard gives you control of additional “cruise” or low load (green), transition (yellow) and high load (red) fuel, and the transition points between these modes, in order to get the most out of your engine modifications. In carburetor terms, think of these as idle, accelerator pump and main jet circuits.

What PowerCard Does Not Do
PowerCard cannot delete fuel. If you are having idle problems with oversize injectors, PowerCard cannot fix this problem. Also, once an injector reaches 100 percent duty cycle, it will not be possible for PowerCard to add any more fuel. You will need to either increase fuel pressure, or move to larger injectors.

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BMW R1100 - R850R Maintenance Guide

R1100 Maintenance Steps - Carl Kulow
Note: This overview section serves only as a step by step reminder for experienced workers. If you are unfamiliar with any procedure you should read the parenthetical reference article or Paul Glaves’Routine R1100 Service Article!

Note to R1100RT and R1100RS Riders: remove the side panels as described in your owners manual “Service and Technical Booklet”except RT: instead of pulling the mirror off as the manual says, you need to hold the back of the mirror (front of bike) with one hand while you hit the front outside corner of the mirror with the palm of your hand thus knocking the mirror off.

Check Alternator Belt
remove four bolts holding black plastic cover(4mm hex), remove cover, check belt for cracks etc., check belt tension, replace belt every 36K miles, leave cover off for valve adjustment (see Jon Diaz “Alternator Belt Adjustment”)

Adjust Valves
remove black plastic valve cover protectors (5mm hex) if installed, remove black valve cover strip, pull plug wire using special black plastic tool in tool kit, blow out debris around plug using compressed air!!! repeat again after turning the spark plugs a couple of turns, remove spark plugs using tool kit socket or 5/8 in. deep well thin wall socket, place oil drain pan under valve cover, remove valve cover (6mm hex), remove black rubber timing hole plug, turn lower alternator pulley clockwise with 17mm box wrench, insert long screwdriver into plug hole while turning engine over, when it is pushed out the maximum start looking for timing marks Z - S - OT, center OT in window, adjust proper valves, intake = .006 in (.15mm), exhaust = .012 in (.30mm), using 10mm box, 3mm Allen, and dual feeler gauges, rotate engine 360 degrees and adjust valves on the other side, clean valve covers, wipe oil off gasket, be certain center gasket is in place on valve cover!!!, replace valve cover (see Stephen Karlan “Valve Adjustment”)

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You and Your Scooter: Riding Tips

Riding a scooter properly is a skill you can learn. It takes thoughtful practice to ride one well. Unfortunately, many riders never learn the skills critical to riding safely and enjoying the experience to the fullest. The best thing you can do is to attend ScooterSchool (SS). Beginning riders may take the ScooterSchool developed by the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF). Also, you may be able to enroll in the MSF Basic RiderCourse SM

(BRC). Although the BRC is designed for motorcycles, much of the safety knowledge and skill development exercises apply to scooter operation. The BRC is a more extensive course, and depending on the state you live in, may qualify you for operator licensing. In addition, at many locations you may ride your own scooter in the BRC, or in some cases the training site provides a scooter. For informa- tion and course locations for both courses, call 800.446.9227 or visit the MSF website at www.msf-usa.org.

People who have been riding for some time can also benefit from ScooterSchool by honing their skills and correcting bad habits while under the watchful, trained eye of an MSF- certified ScooterCoach.

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HyderSeek Ride Report

I was on the road by 7 AM local time, but there was lots of fog. I found Nichols Honda in Wichita and arrived around 9 AM as planned. They were very gracious and agreed to service my bike on short notice. I picked up some perforated gloves on an impulse that were quite welcome later on during the hot desert afternoons. I had a nice pork chop breakfast nearby and was back on the road headed for Oklahoma by early afternoon. A guy at the shop had said that Route 54 southwest had a lot of trucks and was his least favorite road. I found it OK.

Passing through a small town with a lot of sand on the road, I saw a young motorcyclist down next to his twisted machine. No helmet or jacket was evident. He was prone and motionless on the pavement. There were a half dozen people near him and a woman was cradling his face in her lap. I slowed but did not dismount. I could think of no way to contribute and at that moment those folks did not look real fond of motorcycles.

At Dalhart, Texas I stopped for gas and a McDonald’s break. I had an interesting conversation with a young woman and her daughter. She was a wholesale tree farmer and did some riding with her husband on dirt bikes. They also flew small planes. I never would have thought of Texas as tree farm country. In any event, this was a very different life style than my high-pressure suburban scramble back home. At this point, I decided to cut across the northern portion of New Mexico instead of taking the interstate highway to Gallup. I glanced at a map and entertained the wishful notion that this would save some miles and time.

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1999-2005 Dodge Ram 5.9L Cummins Low Fuel Pressure Alarm Light Kit

The purpose of this kit is to indicate to the driver with the red/amber LED, if the supply fuel pressure of the VP44 injection pump is dropping below 5psi. Also note that damage may result to the VP44 if it is starved for fuel. If you are finding that your existing setup cannot supply enough fuel for the VP44, you may want to look at some additional kits to protect your system.

On newer ISBe engines the purpose of the kit is to alarm the driver once the fuel pressure drops below 5psi, indicating that an auxiliary pusher pump is needed. For safety anything over about 400 HP will need an auxiliary pusher pump.

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Mitsubishi Outlander New Models

Mitsubishi Outlander has been designed to complement even the most active of lifestyles. It’s as versatile as you want it to be. Optional third row seats allow you the flexibility of carrying up to 7 people. While the unique electric fold-and-tumble rear seats can automatically provide a cavernous cargo area. A split fold tailgate provides a low and flat entry to the rear, making loading a breeze. As big on innovative features as it is on style, Outlander is brimming with sophisticated technology.

Boasting an impressive Smart Key entry system that enables you to open and start the vehicle with the key still in your pocket; Rockford Fosgate 650 watt audio system with 9 speakers and a 10-inch subwoofer; a rear entertainment system featuring a 9-inch, full-colour wide-screen DVD while Bluetooth allows you to answer your calls without having to access your handset.

Outlander is equipped with the advanced Active Select 4WD system, giving you the option of 2WD for economy or 4WD, for when you need the added traction. MIVEC engine technology (Mitsubishi Innovative Valve timing and lift Electric Control) powers the new 4WD system resulting in greater fuel efficiency. Each model in the Outlander range caters for different lifestyle demands with varying distinguishing features. From the 2.4 litre 4-cylinder LS and sporty XLS to the added power and performance of the 3.0 litre V6 VR and premium sports VRX, Outlander has something for everyone.

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Lombardini LGW 523-627 and LGW 627 GPL engines Workshop Manual

Lombardini Engines are built to supply their performances in a safe and long-lasting way. To obtain these results, it is essential for users to comply with the servicing instructions given in the relative manual along with the safety recommendations listed below.

The engine has been made according to a machine manufacturer’s specifications and all actions required to meet the essential safety and health safeguarding requisites have been taken, as prescribed by the current laws in merit. All uses of the engine beyond those specifically established cannot therefore be considered as conforming to the use defined by Lombardini which thus declines all liability for any accidents deriving from such operations. ·The following indications are dedicated to the user of the machine in order to reduce or eliminate risks concerning engine operation in particular, along with the relative routine maintenance work.

The user must read these instructions carefully and become familiar with the operations described. Failure to do this could lead to serious danger for his personal safety and health and that of any persons who may be in the vicinity of the machine.

The engine may only be used or assembled on a machine by technicians who are adequately trained about its operation and the deriving dangers. This condition is also essential when it comes to routine and, above all, extraordinary maintenance operations which, in the latter case, must only be carried out by persons specifically trained by Lombardini and who work in compliance with the existing documentation.

Variations to the functional parameters of the engine, adjustments to the fuel flow rate and rotation speed, removal of seals, demounting and refitting of parts not described in the operation and maintenance manual by unauthorized personnel shall relieve Lombardini from all and every liability for deriving accidents or for failure to comply with the laws in merit.

On starting, make sure that the engine is as horizontal as possible, unless the machine specifications differ. In the case of manual start-ups, make sure that the relative actions can take place without the risk of hitting walls or dangerous objects, also considering the movements made by the operator. Pull-starting with a free cord (thus excluding self-winding starting only), is not permitted even in an emergency.
· Make sure that the machine is stable to prevent the risk of overturning.
· Become familiar with how to adjust the rotation speed and stop the engine.
· Never start the engine in a closed place or where there is insufficient ventilation. Combustion creates carbon monoxide, an odourless and highly poisonous gas. Lengthy stays in places where the engine freely exhausts this gas can lead to unconsciousness and death.

Get pdf Lombardini LGW 523-627 and LGW 627 GPL engines Workshop Manual

On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) Charts

The Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) Chart was developed from vehicle manufacturer responses to EPA’s request for information under the Clean Air Act (CAA) Section 208. Although we included a suggested format for the information response, not all of the vehicle manufacturers followed this format and, therefore, some information is based on best estimates If you find errors in this document, please notify the contact listed on the EPA website.

Some manufacturers use covers to protect the integrity of the connector pins and/or to prevent impact with vehicle passengers in an accident. The following diagrams provide an example of some of the covers that manufacturers have used. This does not include ashtrays, coin holders, cup holders, the dashboard itself, or other similar items used to conceal the connector.

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Add Light to Your Bottom Line

Former Installer of the Year Sean Young from Sound Decision in Montgomery, Ill., sent in these images and instructions on how to take scrap you have lying around and turn it into profit dollars while wowing your customer. If you do any custom work at all, you probably have most of the materials needed for this project in a scrap bin.

The only thing that you may not have as scrap is neon tubing. The following takes a little over an hour and can add about $150 to your bottom line, and also allows you to stand out from the crowd of regular installers. This installation was performed in an Escalade, but it can be adapted and used anywhere.

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1997/2001 5.2/5.9L DODGE Novi 2000 Supercharger Kit

Congratulations! You have purchased the finest street Supercharger available for the 1997/2001 5.2/5.9L Dodge engine. The centerpiece of this kit is the highly efficient and reliable Paxton Automotive Corp. NOVI 2000 supercharger. A mechanically driven (by belt) centrifugal blower (supercharger). This kit comes with all of the parts you’ll need for a successful installation. The operations required have been grouped in order of sequence.

Photos and drawings accompany the text, allowing quick orientation and parts identification. Installation requires a selection of tools which are listed in a table at the end of this section. We also suggest that you obtain a Dodge shop manual and become familiar with the details of your cars systems. Manuals may be obtained from your local Dodge dealer or you can order one from Helm publications at (800) 782-4356.

For best results follow the instructions closely and in sequence. The average installation time for this kit is 8-10 hours. Your actual installation time will depend on skill level and working conditions. The estimate does not include time for initial vehicle inspection, cleaning, fine tuning or troubleshooting. Before even picking up a wrench, read this entire manual. We are available for technical assistance at (805) 604-1336, 7a.m. - 3:30 p.m. Pacific Time.

After reading the manual, verify that all major assembly groups are present in the main kit box. You should have ample space to layout the components. As you remove a box or bag from the main kit, note the identification label and compare it with the parts list. Please check the box for small parts. Paxton makes every effort to insure that all parts are included in the box. However, if you discover any missing or mislabeled parts, please contact Paxton by phone for service.

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