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Transponder User Guide

Transponder User Guide

Simple mechanical auto locks are rapidly losing ground to the next generation of lock technology — transponder keys. In this innovative system, an electronic chip (the transponder) imbedded in the key transmits and verifies a code with the car’s on-board computer systems, allowing the car to start. If someone attempts to start the vehicle without the correct programmed key the car will not start.

Transponder technology represents a major advance in theft protection — and a profitable opportunity for you. Since its introduction in 1996, transponder key use has grown to over 70 million cars in North America today. And with replacement costs currently averaging $50 to $300 per key, your reward in servicing the technology will match the vehicle owner’s satisfaction of being protected by it.

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GeoTool Pickup Truck Antenna Mount Size Guide

GeoTool Pickup Truck Antenna Mount Size Guide

The rulers and templates will make it easier to measure stake pockets in tenths of an inch, just like in the metal shop. You will use these to accurately measure the dimensions of your stake pocket. Before cutting out and using the rulers and templates, make sure the rulers on this page are the correct size by comparing their length your own ruler. If the length is not correct, enlarge or decrease the size of the printout (using the print dialogue box in windows) make them the correct length. With my computer I had to increase the size of the printout by 104%. When the printed rulers are the correct length, the mount block templates will also be the correct sizes. Cut out the ruler at the right, including both the blank portion and the printed side.

Fold the ruler at 90° along the midline to increase stiffness of the ruler, and then use it to accurately measure the depth of the stake pocket. Use the two rulers together to measure the size of the internal mount if it is smaller than the outer stake pocket, or if the pocket has internal protrusions. Cut out the Mount Block Templates that most nearly fit your stake pocket size, and use them to determine the correct top opening dimension. Remember, some stake pockets have protrusions (i.e., Pre-2000± Dodges) or smaller interior dimensions (Toyota Tundra).

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Guide to R134a Compressor Compatibility

Guide to R134a Compressor Compatibility

the survivability of a given compressor when retrofitted to R134a has been heatedly discussed for several years. First we need to clarify whether we are discussing a CARQUEST remanufactured compressor or an Original Equipment (OEM) compressor that came with the vehicle. When considering retrofitting to R134a all CARQUEST compressors are up to the task, with the only recommendation being that the GM DA6 be replaced with an HR6 compressor. When it comes to OEM compressors the only guide that should be accepted as true would be the OEM guidelines themselves.

GM:
• The DA6 is not recommended for use after the 1987 model year for R134a use. The CARQUEST HR6 should be used to replace the DA6 whenever the customer considers retrofitting to R134a.
• GM reported that the R4, which appeared in pickup trucks from the late 1980’s to the early 1990’s and was designated as a 16-valve compressor, is not a candidate for retrofit. This compressor had a gold label attached to it from the manufacturer. The compressor should be replaced with a new, or a remanufactured CARQUEST R4 compressor.
• GM requires the use of a special V5 retrofit PAG lubricant for use with replacement GM OEM V5 compressors. The use of this special lubricant is not required on CARQUEST remanufactured units, therefore we recommend replacing the compressor to a CARQUEST unit.

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2004-2007 Mazda RX-8 ENGINE CRANKS NO START Service Bulletin

2004-2007 Mazda RX-8 ENGINE CRANKS NO START Service Bulletin

Some vehicles may experience difficulty starting (cranks no start). This may occur after driving the vehicle a short distance without engine reaching normal operating temperature. Examples: starting a vehicle and moving it to wash it, engine stall due to mis-application of clutch then restart. This commonly occurs at port facilities or dealer lots where vehicles are frequently started cold, moved for short distances and then turned off. This concern may also occur due to low cranking RPM during engine starting.

A cranks, no start condition may be caused by fuel flooding resulting in either fouled spark plugs or lower than normal compression. Carefully follow REPAIR PROCEDURE “A” and refer to VIN application to determine necessary repair action.

NOTE:
• After repairs, provide customers with CUSTOMER INFORMATION on the last page of this bulletin (for customers to try after a “CRANKS, NO START” condition, before towing to dealership).

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1992 Mazda 323 Protege Workshop/Wiring Manuals

1992 Mazda 323 Protege Workshop/Wiring Manuals

Connecting Rod
1. Install one piston pin clip into the clip groove in the piston.
2. Assemble the piston and the connecting rod, a ligning the oil groove in the large end of connecting rod opposite the “F” mark on the piston.
3. Apply clean engine oil to the piston pin.
4. Install the piston pin from the side opposite the clip.
5. Tap the piston pin in with the SST until the pin contacts the clip. If the pin cannot be installed easily, replace the connecting rod.
6. Install the second clip into the clip groove in the piston.
7. Check the oscillation torque of the connecting rod. If the large end does not drop by its own weight, replace the piston and/or piston pin.

Piston Ring
1. Install the three-piece oil rings on the pistons.
(1) Apply clean engine oil to the oil ring spacer and rails.
(2) Install the oil ring spacer with the ends upward.
Note
The upper rail and lower rail are the same.
1. The rails may be installed with either face upward. (3) Install the upper rail and lower rail.
2. Verify that both rails are expanded by the spacer tangs as shown in the figure by making certain the rails turn smoothly in both directions.

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Synthetic Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube

Synthetic Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube

AMSOIL Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube (MTG) is a premium blend of the finest synthetic base oils and advanced, high-performance additives. It is formulated specifically for maximum protection in the most demanding manual transmission and transaxle applications where an extreme pressure GL-4 gear lube is specified, including those where high horsepower/high torque engines and towing or heavy loads increase transmission stress.

AMSOIL MTG prevents the thinning effects of mechanical shear. It maintains its viscosity and superior film strength for consistent, long-lasting wear protection. MTG excels in hot and cold temperature extremes that exceed the limits of conventional mineral oils. It protects against rust, keeps seals soft for long life, and is compatible with brass synchros for smooth synchromesh shift quality. Ideal for NV-4500 Transmissions

MTG is a thermally stable, extreme pressure formulation that resists heat, oxidation, acid build-up and varnish. It is the ideal gear lube for high temperature applications, including the New Venture NV-4500 transmission, which retains heat due to its cast iron housing and is often subjected to heavy loads and high torque from turbo-diesel engines.
AMSOIL MTG is the replacement fluid for GM part #12346190 and Chrysler part #4874459 (Chrysler specification #MS-9070).

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2004 and up Mazda 3 Short Throw Shifter Installation Manual

2004 and up Mazda 3 Short Throw Shifter Installation Manual

Tools Required:
-Philips head screw Driver
-3 small flat head screw drivers
-10mm Socket and ratchet
-Needle nose pliers

1. Unscrew the stock shift knob by rotating it counter clockwise.
2. Open the Storage compartment in the center console and remove the foam rubber mat in the bottom. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the
2 screws.
3. Lift up on the rear of the console to begin removal.
4. Continue console removal by lifting the front of the console. The entire console can now be removed in one piece. Place the console in a safe place.
5. Unscrew the 2 screws at the front of the console.

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BC-box and BCLab software User manual

BC-box and BCLab software User manual

The Civinco series of electronic control boxes - The BC - makes it possible to tune your engine without the need to reprogram the stock ECU (engine control-box). Civinco can offer both tuneable and ready-tuned boxes which gives you the possibility to optimise your engine.

The BC-box is available in four versions:
BC250 – Ready tuned box for stock cars with 1-5 cylinder engines. Used as an alternative for chips and serial programming. No PC software is supplied with this box.
BC500 - Tuneable box for cars with 1-5 cylinder engines. Includes PC software enabling full tuning of engine parameters. Tunes fuel, ignition, extra injectors, NOS, shift light, water injection etc.
BC750 – Ready tuned box for stock cars with 6-10 cylinder engines. Used as an alternative for chips and serial programming. No PC software is supplied with this box.
BC1000 - Tuneable box for cars with 6-10 cylinder engines. Includes PC software enabling full tuning of engine parameters. Tunes fuel, ignition, extra injectors, NOS, shift light, water injection etc.
The BC-box is connected between the stock ECU and the main harness, or it can be connected directly to sensors, injectors etc. This makes it possible to alter some in- and output signals which is necessary in all electronic tuning. The basic principle is that the BC-box will increase the boost pressure and add more fuel and at the same time “hide” this information from the ECU. In this way the ECU controls the engine during normal operation such as cold-start and idle etc but the BC-box controls the engine at high power. Common to all versions of the BC-box is that all tuning data is stored on a TuneCard (memory card) which is easily exchanged while driving to give the engine different behaviour such as; imobilizer, rpm-limiter, exotic fuels, max fuel efficiency or maximum power.

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XGAUGE CODING INFORMATION

XGAUGE CODING INFORMATION

The purpose of this document is to explain the way data is used in the XGauge function in the ScanGaugeII.
TXD
The TXD field contains the command to transmit. It also seconds as the trip indicator when used to define a trip value as a gauge. If the first character is a space, this XGauge memory is not in use. Entries must be an even number of characters. If an odd number is input, a “0″ is padded to it.

NON-CAN TXD
In non-CAN use, the first 3 bytes are used to designate the priority, send-to address and the ScanGaugeIIs address. These will be different depending on the required command. If the command is “legislated” or standard, the command will be different than if it is “non- legislated” or OEM defined. “non-legislated” are typically Mode 22 requests.

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TWM Performance Short Shift Kit 2003 and up Mazda 6 Installation Manual

TWM Performance Short Shift Kit 2003 and up Mazda 6 Installation Manual

Installation of this product requires the stock shifter to be cut, and re-installation of the stock shifter requires welding. It’s preferable to park on a flat surface, as you will have to engage and disengage the hand brake and shift from gears to neutral. If you can’t do so and are obliged to install the short shifter on a slightly inclined surface, place wooden blocks in front or behind the wheels to prevent the car from moving while you’re working.

Tools required:
- Flat screw driver (small and large)
- Philips head screw driver
- Flash light
- Needle nose
- 10 mm socket and 10 mm wrench
- 12 mm deep socket
- All purpose grease
- Hack saw
- 5 mm or 3/16 Allen key

1. Carefully unscrew the shift knob by rotating it counter-clockwise.
2. Take the inside of the shift boot and grab the cup holder beside the handbrake and gently pull on it until it unclips. Don’t try to get the two parts apart or you may break them.
3. Locate the plastic caps on each side of the central console in front of the front seats. Remove them by lightly inserting a little flat screw driver and prying the cap off. Take the cross screws out with the appropriate screw driver and keep them in a safe place. You will need them for re-installation. TWM Performance suggests using your empty ashtray to store the removed hardware during installation.

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Turbo Timer (R907) Installation & Operation Manual

Turbo Timer (R907) Installation & Operation Manual

AT vehicle produced since 1963 If we can’t pull out key when gearshift is in P position and engine is still running, we have to release safety circuit. refer to P8 for method of release

For TOYOTA diesel engine, relay of main unit is powered when turbo timer works and ignition key is at OFF position. Battery motor of MR-2 electronic vehicle ˜1.10 Highace (1.8) and etc. runs continuously sometimes. Please refer to P8 for processing details if you want to use special adaptor ˜LEVOC series buy separately.

Battery motor runs when ignition key is at ACC position sometimes. For vehicle without electronic fan, blue wire of turbo timer has to be connected to make battery motor runs. But ACC can’t be used when turbo timer works. If vehicle (like NISSAN, ISUZU and SUBARU) has anti-fault operation relay ˜LEVOC LVH-01/buy separately ACC can be used even turbo timer is working.

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VW TDI Engines Caterpillar 2 Micron Fuel Filter Kit Installation Instruction

VW TDI Engines Caterpillar 2 Micron Fuel Filter Kit Installation Instruction

1. Install the large o-ring on the threaded nipple on the bottom of the Filter Adapter.
2. Using a little diesel fuel, lubricate the filter gasket and thread the fuel filter onto the filter adapter by hand. Once the filter is on the adapter hand tight tighten the filter one additional complete turn, using a pair of strap wrenches. It is helpful to put a mark on the filter to know when you have complete one full turn.
3. Assemble the fuel inlet and outlet banjo fittings. Each banjo fitting should have a washer on each side of the fitting (one on the adapter side, and one on the bolt side). Loosely thread them into the filter adapter. The filter inlet is the threaded hole on the outside (red arrow), and the filter outlet is in the center (green arrow).
4. Remove the OEM filter from the car. Start by removing the clamp on the side of the filter using a Phillips screw driver (the screw for the clamp is under the fuel lines on the right side of the picture (red arrow)).
5. Lift the fuel filter straight up, removing it from the filter holder (you may need to release some of the fuel line hold down clamps to loosen the hose enough to work).
6. Remove the “Mickey Mouse” clip which holds the thermostatic tee (green arrow).
7. Place a container under the old fuel filter to avoid spilling old fuel (an old 2-liter bottle works well).
8. Clamp the fuel inlet and outlet hoses.
9. Remove the thermostatic tee by pulling it straight up. Replace the two o-rings on the tee with the new o-rings included in the kit (red arrow).

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2000 Mazda MX-5 Workshop Manual

2000 Mazda MX-5 Workshop Manual

For proper repair and maintenance a thorough familiarisation with this manual is important and it should always be kept in a handy place for quick and easy reference. All the contents of this manual, including drawing and specifications, are the latest available at the time of printing. As modifications affecting repair or maintenance occur, relevant information supplementary to this volume will be made available at Authorised Mazda dealers. This manual should be kept up-to-date. Mazda Motor Corporation reserves the right to alter the specifications and contents of this manual without obligation or advance notice.

IGNITION COIL INSPECTION
Igniter
1. Carry out spark test. (See 01–03–60 Spark Test.)
Ignition Coil Operation Inspection
1. Remove ignition coils, high-tension leads, and spark plugs.
2. Connect the ignition coil, high-tension lead, spark plug, and the battery as shown in the figure.
Caution
• When connecting the ignition coil, be sure to attach as a female terminal to each terminal. Otherwise, coil terminals may come into contact and the ignition coil could be damaged.
Note
• Use the high-tension lead and spark plug that function properly.
3. Verify that the spark plug produces a strong, pale spark when changing the switch off to on.
Warning
• Do not hold the spark plug, high-tension lead, or ignition coil while inspecting the ignition coil. You may be subjected to a strong shock.
Note
• No.1 and No.4 cylinders and No.2 and No.3 cylinder are ignited simultaneously.

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HiTV M3000 MOTORISED SCREEN Owner’s Manual

HiTV M3000 MOTORISED SCREEN Owner’s Manual

HiTV M3000 Motorised LCD Screen, the factory integration head unit system. HiTV M3000 will provide you with comfortable and safe driving environment. Review this owner’s manual thoroughly prior to operation will provide you with the best performance and help explain the simple requirements for proper care.

Features
a. Screen rotates to pop up and perfectly match the original car profile.
b. Wide-screen 7” touch panel.
c. When screen is activated the screen rotates up, and does not obstruct the driver’s view.
d. 4 adjustable tilting angles for you to find the most comfortable viewing position.
e. Automatic brightness adjustment: Brightness of the panel gets weaker when the dimmer is on.
f. Built-In GPS (HiGo) system.
g. Reserved CCD reverse camera input. The screen is activated automatically and displays the rear view when you shift to reveres gear.
h. User-friendly interface.

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1,9 ltr TDI Industrial Engine

1,9 ltr TDI Industrial Engine

In the direct injection engine, diesel fuel is injected directly into the main combustion chamber. This results in more efficient combustion and lower consumption. The intake port, pistons and injectors have been designed specifically to optimise the combustion process with respect to noise emission and running characteristics.

Inlet swirl port
The intake port is shaped in such a way that it induces a swirling movement of the intake air and, as a result, produces greater turbulence in the combustion chamber and piston recess.
Piston recess
The shape of the piston recess has been opti- mised specially for this engine.
5-hole injector
The fuel is injected into the piston recess in two stages and is ignited by the hot air. The two-stage injection process avoids a sharp pressure rise.

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The Rotary-engine Compression Tester Model ReCT-03b User Manual

The Rotary-engine Compression Tester Model ReCT-03b User Manual

The Rotary-engine Compression Tester can be used to obtain accurate engine compression measurements in a rotary (i.e., Wankel) engine. The Tester combines the output from an AST pressure transducer with the data conversion function of a DATAQ analog-to-digital device to acquire and record accurate compression readings for each face of each rotor in a rotary engine. This system also allows the calculation of engine cranking RPM during the test for data normalization.

This system is useful in diagnosing suspected engine or engine-related issues, to monitor engine health over time and to demonstrate engine health in real-time.

It should be clearly understood that this system requires installation and configuration of software and manual extraction of the compression readings and engine cranking RPM from the recorded data. The readings are not automatically presented to the user, as is the case with much more expensive, rotary-engine compression testers.

This user manual contains all the information you will need to install and configure the associated software and to operate the system to conduct a compression test on your rotary engine. However, should you wish to know more about the DATAQ data conversion hardware or the WinDaq software, manuals for both are installed on your computer with the programs and are available via the WINDAQ program group under the Programs menu. You can also go to the DATAQ web site for more information. Links to that site, as well as to the AST web site, are in the References section of this manual. All support for the Tester is provided by RDS. The user should not contact the component manufacturers directly for support. (See the Warranty section for instructions on how to obtain support for this system.)

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Hummer H2 Spare Tire Cover Installation Instructions

Hummer H2 Spare Tire Cover Installation Instructions

Thank you for the purchase of your new Hummer H2 spare tire cover. Please inspect your package contents before beginning installation. Included should be a molded faceplate and stainless steel retaining ring with locking mechanism. The stainless steel ring is covered with a protective vinyl cover that should not be removed until installation is completed.

Installation Procedures:
1. Standard black ABS faceplate must be painted. Your local auto parts store or body shop will be able to provide assistance with obtaining the correct type and match of paint. To paint faceplate:
a. Clean faceplate with a soap and water solution to remove dirt and other contaminates.
b. Sand painting surface with 320 grit sand paper.
c. Apply a coating of ABS compatible primer-adhesion promoter
d. Apply paint compatible with ABS as directed by the paint manufacturer
2. Hold the retaining ring over spare tire with trim facing towards you (latch assembly will be facing down). Place one side of the open end of the ring over the tire and gradually move ring over and around tire until the retaining ring fits over spare tire.
3. Carefully slip the painted faceplate between the tire and stainless retaining ring. Start at the top tire and work down each side, working retaining ring over faceplate edge.
4. Carefully close opening at bottom of the retaining ring, keeping the faceplate centered. Adjust the latch so the retaining ring fits snug.
5. If faceplate is loose, push on retaining ring edge to adjust the retaining ring inward to sandwich faceplate between tire and retaining ring.

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Brake Fluid Exchanger BFX-1 Operation Manual

Brake Fluid Exchanger BFX-1 Operation Manual

The System Priming Procedure is only necessary before the first time use of the BFX or when changing brake fluid types. Between normal operation cycles, this procedure will not be necessary.

1. Connect red (positive) clamp on power cable to red (positive) terminal on vehicle battery. Connect the black (negative) clamp to a good ground. A good ground can be located by following the negative cable from the battery to where it is connected to the chassis.
Warning: Handle battery connection cable with extreme caution. Batteries generate explosive gases during normal operation. Working in the vicinity of a lead- acid or other automotive battery is dangerous. Wear eye protection. Never smoke or allow a spark or flame in the vicinity of the battery. Do not connect the black power clip to the negative post of the battery to avoid a spark.
2. Fill New Tank with desired brake fluid.
3. Connect Fill Gun to Fill Hose.
4. Disconnect coupler on Used Fluid Tank Line and remove the cap.
5. Turn on FILL MASTER CYLINDER switch.
6. Place outlet tip of Fill Gun into the Used Fluid Tank opening and squeeze Fill Gun trigger.
7. Continue until fluid is moving smoothly through the Fill Gun tip and into the Used Tank without turbulence (air bubbles) visible in the Fill Hose.
8. Turn off FILL MASTER CYLINDER switch.
9. Disconnect Fill Gun from the Fill Hose.
10. Replace Used Tank cap and connect coupler.

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Extended Remote Range VW TSB

Extended Remote Range VW TSB

Radio frequency remote control functions only at close range. May be caused by missing radio frequency remote control antenna wire on vehicles up to and including VIN: 3VWRC29M0XM043029.
Service
If radio frequency remote control antenna wire is not installed. Install antenna wire Part No:

1JM 970 228 as follows:
– Disconnect battery ground (GND) strap before working on the electrical system.

Note:
Obtain radio code before disconnecting battery. Locate Comfort system Electronic Control Module (ECM) next to steering column.

Comfort System ECM, accessing
– Remove two screws –1–.
– Unclip top of trim –2–.
– Remove two screws –3–.
– Unclip top of trim –4–.
– Remove screws from Data Link Connector (DLC).

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VW Embedment Strain Gauge

VW Embedment Strain Gauge

VW Embedment Strain Gauges are used to measure strain in reinforced concrete and mass concrete.
Operation
The body of the strain gauge is a steel tube with flanges at either end. Inside the body, a steel wire held in tension between the two flanges. Strain in the concrete causes the flanges to move relative to one another, increasing or decreasing the tension in the wire.
The tension in the wire is measured by plucking the wire with
electromagnetic coils and measuring the frequency of the resulting vibration. Strain in the wire is calculated by squaring the frequency reading and multiplying a gauge factor and a batch calibration factor.

Test each sensor before installing it. Use a readout and an ohm meter to conduct these tests.
• The VW sensor reading should be about 895 Hz.
• The RTD reading should be close to the ambient temperature.
• Resistance between the orange/white and orange leads should be about 300 ohms.
• Resistance between blue/white and blue leads should be about 2k ohms.

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VW/Audi DTC Reader User’s Manual

VW/Audi DTC Reader User’s Manual

This VW / AUDI DTC Reader is specially designed for Audi, Volkswagen, Seat and Skoda vehicles from year 1990 onwards except for vehicles with CAN bus systems and the ones listed below.

It reads and erases fault codes on Engine, ABS, AIRBAG (SRS) and Automatic Transmission (A/T) systems through the 16 pins OBD II type Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) which is usually located beneath the steering column under the dashboard. For older car models using 2X2 plug DLC, an adaptor 2X2 plug cable is required. This cable is supplied together with this DTC reader.

Over 6,700 Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) definitions were found in its database. It will be displayed on the LCD screen when the particular fault code is entered. This feature is very convenient as it eliminate the hassle of cross checking with the fault codes list from the instruction manual. Once you have the diagnostic information from the vehicle computer, this is the first step in finding and fixing the problem.

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Automatic Transa le Workshop Manual JA5A–EL

Automatic Transa le Workshop Manual JA5A–EL

This manual contains procedures for performing all required service operations. The procedures are divided into the following five basic operations:
— Removal/Installation
— Disassembly/Assembly
— Replacement
— Inspection
— Adjustment

• Simple operations which can be performed easily just by looking at the vehicle (i.e., removal/installation of parts, jacking, vehicle lifting, cleaning of parts and visual inspection) have been omitted. End Of Sie
SERVICING PROCEDURE
Inspection, Adjustment
• Inspection and adjustment procedures are divided into steps. Important points regarding the location and contents of the procedures are e plained in detail and shown in the illustrations.

Repair Procedure
1. Most repair operations begin with an overview illustration. It identifies the components, shows how the parts fit together, and describes visual part inspection. However, only removal/installation procedures that need to be performed methodically have written instructions.
2. E pendable parts, tightening torques, and symbols for oil, grease, and sealant are shown in the overview illustration. In addition, symbols indicating parts requiring the use of special service tools or equivalent are also shown.

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HUMMER H2 2003 and newer AMP Installation Guide

HUMMER H2 2003 and newer AMP Installation Guide

Due to vehicle-build variations the Power Step may not correctly align with vehicle cladding. Using supplied shims, please follow the instructions be- low to correct the alignment. Remove canister purge valve bracket from rock rail remove existing rock rail by unscrewing ten bolts Install new canister purge valve bracket on fourth set of holes from the front (upper bolt)

Mount front linkage assembly with existing bolts on the second set of holes from the front With 18mm socket
Mount motorized linkage with existing bolts on the fifth set of holes from the front. Use rearward hole set on linkage.
To mount running board, slide t-nut into position (Align with holes)
Tighten 4 screws with 3/16″ allen wrench

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Ohlins shock absorber ST 44 Owners Manual

Ohlins shock absorber ST 44 Owners Manual

All of Öhlins advanced suspension products are adepted to the brand and model. This means that length, travel springaction and damping characteristics, are tested individually just for the vehicle that you have decided to fit with Öhlins suspension.
Before installation
Öhlins Racing AB can not be held responsible for any damage whatsoever to suspensionor vehicle, or injury to persons, if the instructions for fitting and maintenance are not followed exactly. Similarly, the warranty will become null and void if the instructions are not adhered to.

Tuning the suspension
Road holding qualities
All vehicles are designed with a suspension geometry that includes wheel movemnets and angles. The changing of components can affect this and it is therefore essential that both the rear and the front ends match each other. Changing to Öhlins suspension gives optimum performance only when both the front and the rear suspension interact properly.

Everything must harmonize
Incorrect spring action can affect the road holding abilities in a negative way. This in turn can give a tendency for oversteering or understeering, which could seriously affect the road holding characteristics of the vehicle. Its important that the springs are checked for correct lenght and stiffness when Öhlins shock absorbers are mounted.

Design
The Öhlins suspensions type ST 44 is of the De Carbon type. The fluid is put under gas pressure and the gas and the fluid are kept apart by a separating piston. The gas and the separating piston are fitted in separate fluid reservoir, connected by hose or fixed direct on top of the shock absorber (piggyback). Pressurization of the fluid is made with nitrogen.
The pressurization prevents cavitation of the fluid and the shock absorbing action is therefore more even. The external fluid chambers also contribute to better cooling of the fluid, giving longer service life for both the fluid and components.

Öhlins shock absorbers have integrated temperature compensation. As the temperature increases and the fluid flows more easily the flow is controlled accordingly. The shock absorbing effect is therefore independent of the temperature. Öhlins shock absorbers provide the possibility for adjustment, making them adaptable to most vehicles, drivers and ranges of use.ST 44 models permit individual adjustment of compression damping and rebound damping, and also certain adjustment of the length of the shock absorber. The ST 44 can be equipped with high and low speed compression damping.

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1993 Mazda X-5 Workshop Manual

1993 Mazda X-5 Workshop Manual

This workshop manual assumes that you have certain special tools that are necessary for the safe and efficient performance of service operations on Mazda vehicles and that you know how to use them properly. It also assumes that you are familiar with automobile systems and basic service and repair procedures. You should not attempt to use this manual unless these assumptions are correct and you understand the consequences described below.

REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Most repair operations begin with an overview illustration. It identifies the components, shows how the parts fit together, and describes visual parts inspections. If a damaged or worn part is found, repair or replace it as necessary.
2. Expendable parts, tightening torques, and symbols for oil, grease, and sealant are shown in the overview illustration.
3. Pages related to service procedures are shown under the illustration. Refer to this information when servicing the related part.

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Worlds Best Tool For Bleeding Clutches, Brakes Users Manual

Worlds Best Tool For Bleeding Clutches, Brakes Users Manual

The 10-Pak features the basic equipment required to perform RFI™, pressure and vacuum bleeding/flush. The 10-Pak
was created by streamlining the Smart-Pak module to include only the fittings and adapters most commonly used. The
10-Pak is an economy package that will still allow the technician full use of Phoenix Injector™ features. The unique modular coupler design allows easy conversion between RFI™, Pressure and Vacuum techniques. Bottle Caps (7, 8)- Bottle caps are provided with a Luer lock quick coupler, bottle vent and pickup tube that will attach to most brake fluid containers.

Luer Lock Quick Couplers w/Adapters (2, 3)- Luer-Lock couplers are provided to quickly attach to adapters and fluid containers. Simply insert and with a twisting motion lock couplers together. Universal Port Adapter (5)- . The Universal Port Adapter (UPA) is included to bench bleed master or slave cylinders and pressure bleed or flush the hydraulic system.

Taper Tips (4)- Taper Tips provide access to clutch slave units that do not have a conventional bleeder valves. Adapters- Bleeder Adapters (1,2,3,6) are provided to connect to external bleeder valves from 1/8” to ¼” sizes. Simply purchase a new bottle of brake fluid, remove the cap and install the appropriate 10-Pak cap in its place. The bottle provides the fluid source for the Injector when performing RFI™ or pressure bleeding. When vacuum bleeding attach the Phoenix Injector™ outlet to the bottle to capture the fluid removed from system.

The Smart-Pak is designed with special assemblies for ABS applications to assist in bleeding and system flush. Adapters are included that will attach the Phoenix Injector™ to all known bleeder valves. High-tech rotating quick couplers are used to provide easy connection to adapters and fluid sources. Systems are fully portable, featuring bottle holder, magnetic securing device and belt attachment.

Bottle-Pak (1) - The Bottle-Pak utilizes clear graduated fluid container equipped with Luer Lock rotating quick couplers. The Bottle-Pak is equipped with a bottle holder and magnetic securing device. The two quick couplers in the Bottle-Pak allow the use of fluid recirculation to fill the Phoenix Injector™ with fluid without any fluid loss. Luer Lock Quick Couplers w/Adapters (5, 6)- Luer-Lock couplers are provided to quickly attach to adapters and fluid containers. Simply insert and with a twisting motion lock couplers together.

Get pdf Worlds Best Tool For Bleeding Clutches, Brakes Users Manual

VW Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

VW Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

From model year 1996, vehicles manufactured for the North American market are equipped with a Government required diagnostic system known as On-Board Diagnostics II (OBD II). This system monitors operation and function of all engine management system activity and automatic transmission operation to insure compliance with specified emission levels.

Vehicle emission levels are constantly monitored by the OBD II system and malfunctions are recognized and recorded. A Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) in the instrument cluster alerts the driver to the fault and the need to have the system checked for fault codes. These codes follow a standard format and are known as Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).

DTCs are assigned two codes. The first code is a numerical code assigned by the factory. The second code is referred to as a P-code and follows a structure required by law and defined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). This standard uses a letter to designate the system and four numbers to further identify and detail the malfunction as listed below.

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VW Stress Station Manual

VW Stress Station Manual

The basic total pressure cell (TPC) is comprised of two stainless steel plates which are laser-welded together around the periphery, leaving a thin space between the plates which is filled with a special de-aired oil (see Fig. 1). For environmental reasons INTERFELS is avoiding the use of mercury as a TPC fluid. This approach is made possible by particular design features of the INTERFELS TPC such as:
- The steel plates are always rounded thus minimizing errors from stiff boundary sections of the TPC to the stress readings.
- The two steel plates which make up the TPC are of unequal thickness. There is a thicker base plate which gives the TPC a solid shape and which also provides the connections for the pressure tube and the pinch tubes; and there is a significantly thinner cover plate which is bent at its periphery to minimize the stiffness of the TPC in its outer section. This thinner side is the most sensitive side of the TPC.
- The height to width ratio of the INTERFELS TPC is very small, actually smaller than any other commercially available TPC. This gives superior TPC performance even in stiff media such as concrete.

The oil-filled space of the TPC is connected via a pressure tube to a membrane switch pressure sensor. Stresses applied nor- mal to the plates of the TPC which shall be monitored are balanced by a corresponding built-up of internal fluid pressure which is then measured by the membrane switch using a manual compensation pump.

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Two-rotor Compression Tester Model ReCT-TRT User Manual

Two-rotor Compression Tester Model ReCT-TRT User Manual

Using the ReCT-TRT, Rotary-engine Compression Tester System
The ReCT-TRT, rotary-engine compression tester is used to obtain accurate engine compression measurements in a rotary (i.e., Wankel) engine. Model ReCT-TRT can be used to conduct compression tests on two rotors simultaneously. The System combines the output from high-precision, AST pressure transducer(s) with the data conversion function of a DATAQ analog-to-digital device to acquire and record accurate compression readings for each face of each rotor in a rotary engine. This system also allows the calculation of engine cranking RPM during the test that can be used for data normalization as necessary.

Model ReCT-TRT consists of a Processing Unit (items 1-4) and two Acquisition Units (items 5-7). The Processing Unit includes an enclosure that houses the analog-to-digital converter, along with power, USB and DIN data connections. Included with the Processing Unit enclosure is a power cable, USB cable and the WinDaq Resource CD. The Acquisition Unit includes a high-precision, pressure transducer with attached 30-inch cable, a quick coupler and a spark plug hole adapter with swivel air plug. This user manual details the procedures for configuring and using the software for simultaneous, 2-rotor testing.

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MoTec M4, M48 & M8 User’s Manual

MoTec M4, M48 & M8 User’s Manual

The MoTeC M4, M48 & M8 are powerful and compact programmable Engine Management Systems or Engine Control Units (ECUs)
M4 ECU
The M4 ECU has 4 Fuel Injector outputs and is referred to as a 4 Group Engine Management System.
M48 ECU
The M48 ECU has 8 Fuel Injector outputs and is referred to as an 8 Group Engine Management System but is otherwise similar to the M4 ECU, except for the following :
Two Ignition outputs instead of four.
Two PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) Auxiliary Outputs and 2 Switched
Auxiliary Outputs instead of 4 PWM Auxiliary Outputs.
No individual cylinder tables (Still does individual cylinder trims).
M8 ECU
The M8 ECU has 8 Fuel Injector outputs and is also referred to as an 8 Group Engine Management System. The M8 has additional inputs and outputs compared to the M4 & M48.

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DC-5 Car Security System with Remote Engine Owners Manual

DC-5 Car Security System with Remote Engine Owners Manual

The main unit is suggested to placed under the panel. After fixing the main unit in a suitable place, start connecting the wires in accordance to the WIRE CONNECTING DIAGRAM before putting back all the parts, simply test the system function first.

Shock Sensor Installation
Install the sensor after fixing the main unit .It is recommended to place the shock sensor near the car doors, or beside the panel so as to easily detect any intrusion actions. To adjust the sensitivity of the shock sensor, simply use a screw to turn the button in the shock sensor, turning right to adjust with a higher sensitivity or vice verse. Then test the sensitivity by triggering the shock sensor. If it triggered, the L.E.D will light up. Please do not directly hit the shock sensor.

Central Lock Installation Guide
This system can control several common central lock types without any additional parts.
TYPE A: For cars equipped with no central lock, recommended to install it first. (see FIG 1)
TYPE B: For cars equipped with central lock but no motor on driver aside, add master motor and rod. (see FIG 2). This type of installation is applicable to operate factory lock system in some FORD, Mitsubishi, Mazda, and Nissan models. *Installation tips: First install the actuator near the door’s manual latch, then fix the rod of the actuator on the manual latch
TYPE C: For cars equipped with central lock and with motor on the driver’s side.(see FIG 3)
TYPE D: The door locks are controlled by electrical activated vacuum pump.(See FIG 4). The timing of actuator mechanism can be set as 0.7 seconds or 3 seconds at the JP2. For some Mercedes-benz and Audi models.
TYPED E: For some cars not mentioned above, please consult your dealers. NOTE: Type B installation method (FIG 2) is suitable for most of the cars.

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Connecting the rear fog light on the A4 Jetta

Connecting the rear fog light on the A4 Jetta

I’m human and make mistakes. If you spot one in this how to, tell me and I’ll fix it This was done on my 99.5 Jetta. Your car may be, and probably is different. If you do the mod and have any insights, tell me and I’ll add them. Also, if you blow up you car doing this, please don’t blame me.

SO WHY DO THIS? I’m a believer in the See and Be Seen principle. What this mod does is use the rear fog portion of both tail lights as a brake light, and let you turn on the rear fog light on the driver’s side by itself. This is useful in inclement weather (like fog for example…) because the rear fog light is much brighter then the parking lights, and can be seen from a greater distance!

First, please read through this whole document. It’s better to have a question about how to do something before you have your car apart. What we are going to do is connect the fog lights to the brake lights so that the fogs come on at the same time as the brakes. We are also going to connect the driver’s fog so it can be switched on all by itself (as the fog should only be on one side). To do this, we need to filter the current going to the driver’s fog so that current from one system doesn’t go to another system. This is done with diodes. Current can only pass in one direction through a diode:..

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VW Insta-Heat Installation Guide and Owner’s Manual

VW Insta-Heat Installation Guide and Owner’s Manual

The Air-cooled VW heating system
In its stock form the heating system on most air cooled VW’s utilizes the engine cooling fan, two heat exchangers and a series of vents in the passenger compartment. The cooling fan, mounted on the end of the generator/ alternator shaft, provides cooling air for the engine and air into the passenger compartment for heat. The heat is provided by two heat exchangers, sometimes called heater boxes. Each heater box is a finned exhaust header that transfers heat from exhaust gasses to air on its way into the passenger compartment. In the (Type 1 beetle) passenger compartment there are two vents located under both sides of rear seat, two more near the driver and passenger’s feet, and a total of five defrost vents spread across the front windshield. As designed this system is uncomfortable in cold weather.

Advantages
Contrary to popular belief the heating system on air cooled VW’s is well thought out and produces plenty of heat, the problem is delivering that heat and air flow into the passenger compartment. Using exhaust gasses as a heat source means the heater boxes get hot almost immediately after engine startup. This also means there is more than enough available heat to use for warming the vehicle interior.

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Model 1524A Operating Manual

Model 1524A Operating Manual

Transmission Service with the Tranny Flusher
The number one reason for transmission failure is fluid breakdown. Over time, the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) becomes contaminated and loses its viscosity and the ability to lubricate the moving parts within the transmission. Conventional service methods of dropping the pan and changing the filter result in only about 30-40% of the total ATF in the transmission being drained out. That leaves 60-70% of the old ATF to be mixed with the new ATF introduced during service. Therefore, adequate lubrication is not achieved.

The Tranny Flusher replaces 100% of the old ATF with new, using a process much like a blood transfusion. As old ATF flows into the Tranny Flusher, new ATF is reintroduced into the transmission, including the torque converter and cooling lines. The net result is the revitalization of the transmission lubrication to virtually new specifications.
The 1524A utilizes a unique method to speed up the exchange rate of vehicles, especially those with low flow transmission cooling circuits or those with in-line thermostats in the ATF coolant lines.

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Twin Type Owners Manual

Twin Type Owners Manual

This Owner’s Manual is intended to provide detailed descriptions together with all the necessary information covering the general operation of electronic assemblies, electromechanicals, servicing control, spare parts, etc. as regards the product,

SEGA INITIAL “D” VERSION 3 TYPE TWIN.
This manual is intended for the owners, personnel and managers in charge of operation of the product. Operate the product after carefully reading and sufficiently understanding the instructions. If the product fails to function satisfactorily, non-technical personnel should under no circumstances touch the internal system. Please contact where the product was purchased from.

When installing or inspecting the machine, be very careful of the following points and pay attention to ensure that the player can enjoy the game safely. Non-compliance with the following points or inappropriate handling running counter to the cautionary matters herein stated can cause personal injury or damage to the machine.

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5th Gear Swap How-to

5th Gear Swap How-to

The procedure for swapping out the 5th gear is rather simply. In short all you have to do is remove the end cover of the tranny, remove 2 retaining bolts, remove both the gears, put on the new gears, replace bolts and end cap, refill with gear oil and you are done. Sounds simple enough right? It basically is except for the removing of the original gears, thats where things get tricky…

You have 2 gears to remove, The larger drive gear with the associated selector assembly and the smaller driven gear. The smaller gear along with the selector are both pressed onto a splined shaft. So to remove both of these you will need a gear pullers. For the selector assembly any gear puller about the right size should work without issue but for the smaller gear some modification might be needed as the case is pretty close to the gear which makes getting the puller arms around the gear a little challenging. Once you get the puller on you will want to heat the gears so they expand as this should make the removal a little easier.

At about this point you would reach the scary part of the project. Once the puller is on the gear selector assembly and you are cranking down on it, it can take A LOT of force to get the gear office. Mine let out a loud crack which fortunately was the gear coming off the shaft. Ok, If that didn’t leave you horribly terrified here is the more detailed overview…

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VW/AUDI V-checker User Manual

VW/AUDI V-checker User Manual

V-CHECKER is a powerful, affordable handy scanner designed for all VW, AUDI, SKODA, and SEAT vehicles. It is small in size, robust in design, competitive in price and easy to use. With only 10% of the cost of a large special tool, it can nearly do the same work as that of a VAG1551/1552. This is a stand alone unit; it does not need a laptop computer to operate.

Available Functions
Control Unit Information
Read Fault Codes
Measuring Blocks
Clear Fault Codes
Basic Setting
Adaptation
Independent Channel Value
Output Tests
Coding Control Unit
Login
Service Oil Reset
Code Modes
Dealership Code Set

Supported Systems
V-CHECKER can support the following systems: [Engine],[Transmission],[Airbag],etc. there are 78 systems available.

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Model 1514C Operating Manual

Model 1514C Operating Manual

The number one reason for transmission failure is fluid breakdown. Over time, the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) becomes contaminated and loses its viscosity and the ability to lubricate the moving parts within the transmission. Conventional service methods of dropping the pan and changing the filter result in only about 30-40% of the total ATF in the transmission being drained out. That leaves 60-70% of the old ATF to be mixed with the new ATF introduced during service.

Therefore, adequate lubrication is not achieved. The Tranny Flusher replaces 100% of the old ATF with new, using a process much like a blood transfusion. As old ATF flows into the Tranny Flusher, new ATF is reintroduced into the transmission, including the torque converter and cooling lines. The net result is the revitalization of the transmission lubrication to virtually new specifications.

The Tranny Flusher is ready for its first service!
Once completely purged of air, Tranny Flusher does not add nor take any fluid from the transmission. The following considerations should be made when servicing a vehicle:
- If the transmission pan is removed and the filter changed after servicing with the Tranny Flusher, you will need to add clean fluid to bring the level to normal.
- If the transmission pan is removed and the filter changed prior to using the Tranny Flusher, you will need to add clean fluid to bring the level back to normal level before performing the service.

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1996-2002 Audi B5 2.7 Liter V6 5V BiTurbo Engine Mechanical

1996-2002 Audi B5 2.7 Liter V6 5V BiTurbo Engine Mechanical

Engine, removing and installing
Note:
All cable ties opened or cut during engine removal must be reinstalled at the same locations.
Remove engine without transmission toward the front.
Drained coolant must be stored in a clean container for disposal or reuse.
Always replace seals and gaskets.
Do not open coolant circulation system.

Removing
First determine whether a coded radio is installed. If so, determine the correct coding.
Switch ignition off and disconnect battery Ground (GND) strap.
Remove bolts (arrows) and remove engine covers -A- and -B-.
Remove cover above air filter.
Remove plenum cover.
Remove sound-proofing material (arrows).
Remove bracket for sound-proofing at unit support.
Drain engine coolant => page 19-19
Remove front bumper:
=> Repair Manual, Body Exterior, Repair Group 63
Remove lock carrier:
=> Repair Manual, Body Exterior, Repair Group 50

Get pdf 1996-2002 Audi B5 2.7 Liter V6 5V BiTurbo Engine Mechanical

VW Brake Fluid Change

VW Brake Fluid Change

I finally got around to doing my brake fluid change this weekend. All in all, the job was pretty easy. Removing the wheels and getting the jetta up on jack stands took a good portion of my time. I understand that this may not be necessary, but I wanted to poke around and inspect everything. I used a motive power bleeder to do the change. I confirmed dieseldorf’s findings that this can be done without putting fluid in the bleeder. I just used a turkey baster to remove as much of the old fluid as possible from the fluid reservoir, and then filled it with the new ATE blue fluid. My old fluid was amber.

This was the first time I have done a fluid change. Its not really that hard (I did it!) and needs to be done every two years.
My blow by blow of what was done is as follows:
1) Remove wheels and get car up on jack stands at all four corners.
2) Remove cap and sensor on fluid reservoir.
3) Use baster to remove fluid from reservoir.
4) Attach power bleeder to the fluid reservoir and pressurize it. (Do not exceed 14.5 psi! I went for about 10)
5) Connect drip tube to the right rear bleed valve and/or receptacle.
6) Open bleed valve with 11mm wrench and bleed till only new fluid is present in the fluid stream (Bear in mind you need to keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir as well, insuring it does not go blow the MIN marking)
7) Close valve and then repeat on the LR, RF, LF wheels, then on the clutch, watching the fluid level at the reservoir. (If refilling, depressurize by unscrewing the cap on the bleeder, NOT on the reservoir cap!) Right rear brakes (arrows point to the bleeder screws)

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BEGI System 4.2 turbo installation instructions for 1.6L Miatas

BEGI System 4.2 turbo installation instructions for 1.6L Miatas

Thank you for purchasing the BEGI System 4.2 turbo system. We regard the installation as a mutual project and will be pleased to offer help at any time. We remain committed to make this a successful and enjoyable experience for all concerned. These instructions will offer the installer a guide for the installation and operation of the BEGI System 4.2 turbocharger system for the 1.6 liter Mazda Miata.

The success of this installation will be determined by a variety of factors. These instructions should be adhered to unless reasonable cause for deviation exists. The vehicle must be in excellent condition and proper tune prior to starting the installation. Care and attention to detail by the installer are of extreme importance. The daily operator of the vehicle must observe all operational guidelines.

Inventory all the components when the kit arrives. We strive to ensure all the components are included in the kit, but if a part is left out you will want to know it before you are looking for it during the installation. Prior to starting the installation, fill the fuel tank with gasoline of 93 octane. Do not dilute with lesser octane fuel already in the tank. If necessary, drain the tank.

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2001 Audi A4 - 2000 Audi S4 Cooling System

2001 Audi A4 - 2000 Audi S4 Cooling System

2001 Audi A4 and 2000 Audi S4 Cooling System components, removing and installing for 2.7 Liter V6 5V BiTurbo Engine Mechanical, Engine.
When the engine is hot the cooling system is under pressure. Carefully open filler cap on expansion tank to release pressure before starting repair work. Hoses are secured with spring-type clips.

When repairing only use spring-type clips. VAG 1921 pliers are recommended when installing spring-type clips. The O-rings installed at the quick-release connections must be replaced if damaged or leaking.

When installing coolant hoses, make sure that they are free of stress and do not come into contact with other components (observe markings on coolant connection and hose) Perform leak test on cooling system with cooling system tester VAG 1274 and adapter VAG 1274/8.

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A3/B4 clockspring R&R HOWTO

A3/B4 clockspring R&R HOWTO

I decided to start taking pictures only after having the clockspring fully disassembled, as in picture 2, so now I have to play them backwards I do not go into details on removing the airbag or the steering wheel, as there is plenty of material describing these steps. We start with the steering wheel off the car and the airbag disconnected and removed, as shown in picture 1. If you look at pic1, you will see three Phillips head screws and a soldered back and isolated cut in the horn wire, going down to the horn slip ring on the other side. To separate the clockspring assembly from the steering wheel you have to remove those three Phillips screws and either disconnect the horn wire connector, or just cut the wire right now. This will come in handy later, when you will want to separate the slip ring carrier from the assembly.

To unlatch the slip ring carrier you have to gently pry on the three prongs located inside the central hole of the clockspring assembly. Working on at least two prongs simultaneously helps a lot here. Do not be afraid, the clockspring enclosure will not open yet.

Now comes the fun. We are finally going to have a look inside the assembly. The only remaining part holding both sides together is the lock pin.

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TG Sports (1955) Semi Built Vehicle (SBV) Assembly Manual

TG Sports (1955) Semi Built Vehicle (SBV) Assembly Manual

This Manual has been designed to give you a comprehensive guide to assembly of your ” Sports
car”. There are several points to remember.
1. You need common sense to build this car. If you have none do not attempt to build it. No experience is necessary - just common sense.
2. Whenever practical, you should use lock nuts, spring washers, or some form of locking device on bolts.
3. Read the manual from cover to cover several times, then read and re-read each section. This is most important as you will find that something which appears very complicated or confusing will become clearer when you have the donor car and the new kit components in front of you and you work through the manual section by section.
4. The manual is divided into three sections:
The Donor Car
Installing the Donor parts.
Accessories, and finishing touches.
Electrical wiring
5. Car jacking points should be only on the Chassis.
6. Later instructions are not detailed as much as it becomes more of personal taste, However, we are more than happy to supply information as and when required.
7. If you purchase a manual sometime before you buy your kit, please inform us before you start your car as, due to constant development work and Transport design changes, your manual may require updating to suit the SBV you will receive…

There are 4 ways of obtaining your donor parts.
1. From a dismantler. This can be expensive and you have to be sure that he supplies all the bits you require and you have to be doubly sure that all the bits are from a Mazda Miata MX5 and not from some other car that HE says that the parts are the same.
2. From a DAMAGED auction. In most areas there are auction houses who sell cars being sold by insurance companies. Yes you may find that some of the bits you require are damaged, but you can just top up from dismantlers. Accident damaged vehicles are often advertised in the Newspapers.
3. Purchase a cheap donor car either through the local paper, the net, or whatever other means is available to you.
4. In some areas there are companies who import used parts from Japan. Your Yellow Pages may be able to assist…

Get pdf TG Sports (1955) Semi Built Vehicle (SBV) Assembly Manual

VW Type A-4 Timing Belt Replacement Procedure

VW Type A-4 Timing Belt Replacement Procedure

Finally the procedure we have all been waiting for: the “A4 Timing Belt Procedure“, including the automatic and manual transmission differences. Some people have argued till they are blue in the face that “mark and pray” was the easiest way to change one of these belt, and it has been proven that this belt can be changed in under 2 hours using the full factory method as demonstrated here in this thread. The procedure utilizes all the factory tools and processes. The reason for going to the extreme of utilizing all the tools is the elimination of all possibilities of making a $2500.00+ mistake and destroying the head. You do not need many tools to complete this job. What you do need is a thorough understanding of the procedure and what you are about to accomplish.

When changing a timing belt, you are doing more than just replacing an old belt.What you are doing, whether performing a 40K on the auto or 60K on a manual, is inspecting the entire engine area that has been covered up since the engine was new or since the last belt change. The second most important thing this procedure accomplishes is it totally resets ALL timing settings on the engine and restores them back to factory new settings.

While on the topic of timing, we need to understand that there are three types of timing involved here:
1.The first and most overlooked type of timing is the cam and crank timing.This keeps the cam spinning in perfect time allowing the engine to produce great low-end power as well as allowing the engine to rev to it’s full redline of 5100 rpm.
2.The second type of timing is “basic” injection timing. I concocted the word “basic” timing because it is used to initially set and assure that the engine will start.This is accomplished by inserting the injection pump lock pin: positioning the pump shaft in relation to cam and crank timing in such a way that injection will occur within the ignition window.
3. Once the cam & crank timing have been set and the Injection pump is positioned, you will need to adjust the injection timing utilizing the Vag-Com ® . (www.ross-tech.com) If you do not have this, then get it before attempting to perform this procedure.

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Extending Range of Remote Antenna by Splicing Longer Wire

Extending Range of Remote Antenna by Splicing Longer Wire

Start off by removing the side cover over the fuse panel on the side of the dash. Then remove the 3 T20 torx screws under the dash for under-dash shelf. Now you can pull the left section of the dash panel that covers under the colume off. That will expose another T20 torx screw that holds the right side section to the knee bar, remove the screw and pull towards you to remove the panel. Now there are 2 T25 screws and 4 T20 screws that hold the black metal knee bar to the dash. remove all 6 screws and remove the knee bar. Now you can see the fuse panel and relay carrier clearly.

The BLACK connector that is circled above is the the connector that houses the antenna wire. unplug in and pull it down the best you can to get to the wire.

Now you have to push the purple terminal lock to the side in order to remove the old antenna wire terminal. you will need a special wire removal tool. *(as i said before it will be difficult for some of you to find one, so if you want to skip removing the entire wire and want to TRY and cut the antenna wire and splice new wire to the old terminal still in the connector then go for it!)

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Applicable Vehicles for Airbag Resetting

Applicable Vehicles for Airbag Resetting

When an explosion occurs in an airbag or the SRS light is turned on, normally both airbag and the controller should be replaced. But this tool can restore the software under the conditions that there is no damage to the controller’s hardware and replace the airbag only, and the controller can be used again.

Features:
1. Handhold design, big screen display.
2. Updating through Internet, quick and convenient.
3. VW airbags can be reset by K-line or OBD-II line.
4. Can read/write and save the memory of an airbag not supported at present.

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2001 VW Golf TDI Gauge Installation

2001 VW Golf TDI Gauge Installation

This page describes my aftermarket gauge install on my 2001 VW Golf TDI. It should directly apply to any Mk4 (99.5+) Golf or Jetta TDI and it should apply to the 98+ New Beetle TDIs. For other engines, wiring should be similar, but the installation of senders into the engine will be different. The intention of this page is to share information about my install and to help others who are considering an install. I tried to photograph everything important. Shoot me an email if you can think of a photo that you’d like to see that I haven’t included. In fact, any comments are welcome.

Anything you do to your own car is AT YOUR OWN RISK! I deny any responsibility or liability for anything that you may do to your car. I’m not a professional mechanic, I just like tinkering with my car. Don’t do any of this if you aren’t comfortable with modifying your engine and be prepared to deal with the consequences if you screw something up. On that happy note, on with the show!
If you intend to use this document as a guide, READ THE WHOLE THING FIRST. Required tools and procedures are sprinkled throughout, so make sure that you have all required tools beforehand, AND that you are comfortable with every required procedure.
Any time I mention a special tool or part that I used, I’ve included it in bold font. I assume that you have access to normal tools: screwdrivers, ratchet set, wrenches, etc. And, of course, a set of Torx drivers, which you should already have if you’ve done more than the most basic maintenance on your VW. The T-20 driver is essential for this work.
I installed 4 VDO Vision gauges: electrical voltmeter (VDO part # 332-103), 80 PSI oil pressure (350-104), and 300*F oil temperature (310-106), and mechanical 30 PSI boost (150-104). The voltmeter and two oil gauges are installed in the cubbyhole area between the radio and the cupholder, and the boost gauge is in a pod mounted on the dash near the A-pillar. If you want to use an A-pillar mount, the wiring part should be pretty similar.
There’s two parts of this job: exterior and interior. The exterior consists of installing senders into the engine and routing wires and tubing into the engine compartment. The interior consists of routing the wires from the engine compartment to where they need to go, making electrical connections, and installing the physical gauges themselves. The exterior work in the engine bay should be done first.

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GdB SWAP WIRING VERSION ELECTRICAL DIAGRAM

GdB SWAP WIRING VERSION ELECTRICAL DIAGRAM

I suggest doing this all before installing the clutch pedal, it is a tight spot to work in.
1. REMOVE Park Neutral Relay 175
2. Pull out the socket for the 175 to get access to the wires CRUISE CONTROL HOOKUP portion
3. Cut the GREEN/BLACK wire (pin #5) close to the 175 socket and connect to the blue or black clutch pedal switch (closest to the driver seat)
4. Cut the GREY/RED (YELLOW/GREEN on post 99.5 Mk4’s) wire (pin #9) close to the 175 socket and connect to the other wire on the same blue or black clutch pedal switch
5. Remove the TCU and disconnect the plugs from the ECU
6. Find (continuity check…) and CUT the same GREY/RED (YELLOW/GREEN on post 99.5 Mk4’s) wire at the TCU connector.
6a. Find a YELLOW/RED wire on the TCU connector that also has continuity with ECU pin #19 YELLOW/RED wire. Cut it at the TCU side and connect it to the YELLOW/GREEN wire. (1st check for unwanted continuity with any ECU pins)
7. Remove ECU pin #19 and pin #66 and put the pin #19 with YELLOW/RED wire attached into empty hole #66 (98 and 99 beetle it is pin #46 so please check before you throw 12v to the wrong pin)

Get pdf GdB SWAP WIRING VERSION ELECTRICAL DIAGRAM

Flyin’ Miata II turbo installation Instructions for 1.8L Miatas

Flyin’ Miata II turbo installation Instructions for 1.8L Miatas

Thank you for purchasing the Flyin’ Miata II turbo system. We regard the installation as a mutual project and will be pleased to offer help at any time. We remain committed to make this a successful and enjoyable experience for all concerned. These instructions will offer the installer a guide for the installation and operation of the Flyin’ Miata turbocharger system for the 1.8 liter Mazda Miata.

Please read through these directions entirely. Evaluate your own skills honestly and decide whether this installation is something that you are comfortable doing. Realize that you are doubling the horsepower of your car and the consequences of improper installation could destroy your engine. To install this kit safely, you must have a firm grasp of how cars work. Proper tool use is critical. We are more than willing to help anyone install these kits, but you must be honest with yourself with respect to your skill level before you jump into the deep end.

The success of this installation will be determined by a variety of factors. These instructions should be adhered to unless reasonable cause for deviation exists. The vehicle must be in excellent condition and proper tune prior to starting the installation. Care and attention to detail by the installer are of extreme importance. The daily operator of the vehicle must observe all operational guidelines.

Inventory all the components when the kit arrives. We strive to ensure all the components are included in the kit, but if a part is left out you will want to know it before you are looking for it during the installation.

Get pdf Flyin’ Miata II turbo installation Instructions for 1.8L Miatas

TDI Injector/Nozzle Swap Howto

TDI Injector/Nozzle Swap Howto

This document explains injector removal, nozzle swap, and injector reinstallation on a VW TDI. The car used was a 2001 Golf (ALH engine). The instructions should be similar for earlier TDI engines (AHU and 1Z). I welcome email with comments or questions about the content of this howto!

I‘ve broken the job down into four sections: removing injectors, swapping nozzles, installing injectors, and ECU adjustments. If you just want to install new injectors and aren‘t doing a nozzle swap, just skip that part. It‘s recommended that after installing nozzles you get them pop-tested by a local Bosch shop (http://www.boschservice.com) certified on VE equipment. Any shop knowledgeable about Dodge/Cummins diesels should be able to help. They can set the spring preloads in the nozzles and make sure that the spray pattern is good. These shops can only set one of the two springs in the injector, but that‘s better than nothing.

Get pdf TDI Injector/Nozzle Swap Howto

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