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Thumping Along in an Acura MDX

Thumping Along in an Acura MDX

Bill secured his son James, and his dog Skippy, into their 2001 Acura® MDX for a weekend fishing trip. As they drew nearer to “Camp Chasing Squirrel” on an old fire road, Bill noticed a “thump” noise from his MDX. After returning with lots of great stories and lots of wet paw prints, he called me about the thumping.

There are three distinct noises that may come from the front suspension:
1. A sharp metallic pop, usually heard when accelerating or braking
2. A clunk, usually heard when driving through dips in the road.
3. A thump, usually heard when driving over rough roads.

Each of the three noises has a different probable cause. Symptom 1 is caused by insufficient clamping force of the lower arm to the subframe. Symptom 2 is caused by the front damper spring coil contacting the end of the spring. Symptom 3 is caused by faulty front dampers.

Based on the diagnosis of the vehicle’s specific symptom, torque the lower arm mounting bolts, install spring silencer tube sections, or replace one or both front dampers as needed.

DIAGNOSIS
Do the appropriate diagnosis based on the customer’s complaint or the symptom you hear during the test- drive.
1. Sharp metallic pop: Drive the vehicle in a full-lock turn (right or left), at about 2 to 3 mph, and apply the brakes hard. Then accelerate again to about 2 to 3 mph. Repeat this several times. If you hear a sharp metallic pop, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE A.
2. Clunk: Drive the vehicle through a dip or over a speed bump. If you hear a clunk, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE B.
3. Thump: Drive the vehicle on a choppy or washboard road. If you hear a thump, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.

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1994-2001 Acura Integra GSR Pro-Flo Header

1994-2001 Acura Integra GSR Pro-Flo Header

Edelbrock Pro-Flo header components are designed to improve the exhaust efficiency of the Acura 1.8L engine. A performance gain can be expected with the installation of the system. This system requires no welding fo installation and retains all stock emissions equipment. Suggested tools needed for installation: This vehicle has some metric fasteners.

K 3/8” ratchet socket set with extensions and a good assortment of metric sockets
K Combination wrenches (metric)
K Universal 12mm and 14mm swivel sockets
K Jackstands, screwdrivers, pliers, crescent wrench, etc.
K Liquid penetrant (GM #1052627 or equivalent); anti-seize compound (GM #5613695 or equivalent)

SPECIAL NOTICE: This Edelbrock part has received an Executive Order number (E.O. #) from the California Air Resources Board (C.A.R.B.) making it legal for street use on pollution-controlled motor vehicles in all 50 states. To assist you with emissions equipment certification, we have included a silver fan shroud decal to help testing personnel verify that this part is a legal replacement part on the vehicle for which it is cataloged. The adhesive-backed decal should be affixed to your fan shroud next to the existing emission and engine specification decal. Do not cover your original equipment specification decal with the Edelbrock fan shroud decal.

WARNING: The use of “Thermal Wrap” or any aftermarket coating process will void the warranty on your Pro-Flo header. Those products can cause excessive heat and moisture build up resulting in corrosion and early failure of the system.

DISASSEMBLY:
1. Disconnect battery negative cable from battery.
2. Raise vehicle and support with jackstand.
3. The use of penetrating oil when removing and the use of anti-seize compound when installing nuts and bolts will prevent the possibility of broken or stripped nuts and bolts.
4. Make sure converter is cool.
5. Remove O2 sensor (if applicable) being careful not to destroy or rupture the unit. Warning: Do not clean this unit in any cleaning solvents and do not rupture wire.
6. Remove the two nuts from hanger bracket. Remove the two bolts and springs at the catalytic converter. Then unbolt the three bolts at the mid-section of manifold and remove lower portion of manifold (B-section).
7. Remove the bolt that is attached to the engine block in the lower section of manifold. Remove bolts from manifold at cylinder head and pull manifold out from top side. Note: Save all factory nuts, bolts and springs to be used during re-assembly.

Get pdf 1994-2001 Acura Integra GSR Pro-Flo Header

Short Shifter for Honda Civic / Acura Integra Installation Instructions

Short Shifter for Honda Civic / Acura Integra Installation Instructions

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
1) Raise the vehicle. Use ramps or a jack and jack stands. NEVER work under a vehicle that is supported by the jack.
2) Remove the stock shift knob from inside the vehicle by twisting it counterclockwise.
3) Underneath the car, remove the bolt that attaches the shifter to the shift rod. Move the shift rod out of the way.
4) Remove the two locknuts and the shift ball holder plate. Pull the stock shifter out taking care to not damage the shift boot inside the car.
5) Inspect the shifter ball seat (plastic piece) and replace if worn or damaged.
6) Rub a small amount of white lithium or synthetic grease around the ball of the JG Edelbrock shifter. Guide the shifter up into the assembly. Before pushing it all the way in, guide the threaded end through the shifter boot from inside the vehicle. Make sure that the shifter bend is pointed towards the driver.
7) For Integra’s, use the long (45.5 mm) pin and the thick and thin aluminum spacers for side clearance. Lubricate the distance pin with white lithium or synthetic grease.
8)For Civics, use the short (30.5mm) distance pin with the washers for side spacers. Lubricate the pin with white lithium or synthetic grease.
9) Re-install bolt and locking nut – torque to 16 ft-lbs.

Get pdf Short Shifter for Honda Civic / Acura Integra Installation Instructions

Audi Diagnostic Trouble Codes DTC Table - General

Audi Diagnostic Trouble Codes DTC Table - General

From model year 1996, vehicles manufactured for the North American market are equipped with a Government required diagnostic system known as On-Board Diagnostics II (OBD II). This system monitors operation and function of all engine management system activity and automatic transmission operation to insure compliance with specified emission levels.

Vehicle emission levels are constantly monitored by the OBD II system and malfunctions are recognized and recorded. A Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) in the instrument cluster alerts the driver to the fault and the need to have the system checked for fault codes. These codes follow a standard format and are known as Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).

DTCs are assigned two codes. The first code is a numerical code assigned by the factory. The second code is referred to as a P-code and follows a structure required by law and defined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE). This standard uses a letter to designate the system and four numbers to further identify and detail the malfunction as listed below.

Audi Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) and data can be retrieved with VW/Audi Factory Scan Tools such as the VAG 1551, VAG 1552, or the new diagnostic computer VAS 5051 through a Data Link Connector (DLC). For location of the data link connector, see Maintenance section. Several aftermarket scan tools and computer programs are also capable of retrieving this information in this factory mode. The factory mode also allows the scan tool to be used for other system diagnostic functions and information retrieval.

Some DTC information can also be retrieved in a generic mode. The generic mode is not as complete as the factory mode, but allows commercially available scan tools to be used simply to read DTCs. Generic scan tool mode does not have the capability to retrieve the detailed information of a manufacturer-specific scan tool.

Get pdf Audi Diagnostic Trouble Codes DTC Table - General

AD36 VW/AUDI System 1 PIN Code Reader Operating Manual

AD36 VW/AUDI System 1 PIN Code Reader Operating Manual

The AD36 is a small portable device that can read the pin codes from system 1 immobilisers fitted with a 6 pin connector and having a Z3Z within the 14 digit immobiliser number.
Eg VWZ3Z0T3325023
System 1 consists of a separate immobiliser ECU which controls the recognition of keys and the Engine Management ECU system.

SYSTEM IDENTIFICATION
To identify the correct system, check to see whether the Dashboard has the following symbol when the ignition is on:

You can either copy the file Vag pin decode - ADD to your computer desktop or run it from the CD provided.

Connecting to a PC
The tester is fitted with a USB port connector which connects directly into the USB port of a PC.
Option 1 - Run directly from CD
1. Put the CD into your PC and view the files on the disc.
2. Double click Vag pin decode - ADD file to open the program at the appropriate stage in the test process.
Option 2 - Copy File to PC
1. Put the CD into your PC and view the files on the disc.
2. Highlight the Vag pin decode - ADD file and copy.
3. Paste the Vag pin decode - ADD file to the desktop of your computer.
4. Double click Vag pin decode - ADD file to open the program at the appropriate stage in the test process.

Get pdf AD36 VW/AUDI System 1 PIN Code Reader Operating Manual

Audi TT & VW Mk 4 Front Installation Manual

Audi TT & VW Mk 4 Front Installation Manual

These instructions are for the Audi TTand Volkswagen Mark IVchassis vehicles. The photos shown are of an Audi TT. The Volkswagen applications use the same caliper brackets, rotors and hats, and the caliper bodies are identical, so the installations are very similar on all vehicles. The one main difference is the brake lines, which may vary slightly from the photos shown. Also, brake pad wear sensors and ABS line routing may vary. Though the actual fitment may look slightly different, the order in which the kit is installed is the same for all vehicles.

This Kit Incudes the Following:
1 pair of ST-40 4-Piston Calipers
1 set of high performance brake pads (Not suitable for track use)
1 pair of 328mm X 28mm AeroRotors
1 pair of caliper adapter brackets, with stainless steel mounting studs and hardware pre-installed.
1 pair of stainless steel covered Teflon brake lines.
- 1 pair of “C” clips for brake line brackets (used for VW kits only)
- 1 pair of Banjo Bolts
- 2 pair of copper washers
- 1 pair of rubber end caps
- 2 High temperature Ty-Wraps

Caliper, Hat and Bracket Finish Disclaimer
Many wheel-cleaning solutions contain strong acids that may damage the finish on any caliper and or aluminum anodized finish, especially the plating on the hardware. Check for adverse effects by trying a small amount of the cleaner in question on an inconspicuous area. Avoid over spraying, and rinse the cleaning solution off as quickly as possible. STOPTECH will not be held liable for damage to caliper, hat or bracket finish due to corrosive chemical exposure.

A level, stable and clean surface suitable for supporting the car on jack-stands should be used for the installation.

Get pdf Audi TT & VW Mk 4 Front Installation Manual

Home Pressure Test Audi 2.7t

Home Pressure Test Audi 2.7t

The Audi 2.7 turbo engine has been around for some time now. As the engine ages the hoses connecting the turbo pluming can develop leaks. The goal of this document is to supplement AWE Tuning’s 2.7t pressure test document http://tinyurl.com/q45t4 in finding charge pressure leaks. An understanding of the 2.7t plumbing can help in diagnosing any leaks. The picture below is from the 2.7t study guide and shows the primary air path.

The light blue signifies atmospheric air. Damaged turbos, premature oil breakdown and premature engine wear will result if you have leaks in the atmospheric air path. However a leak here will not cause boost problems.

2.7t Pressure Test
The red path is compressed air leaving the turbos before the intercoolers. Air density is increased by cooling and thats the job of the intercoolers. By cooling the air you increase the air’s density which increases the engines volumetric efficiency. The dark blue path represents this dense air as it enters the intake manifold.

Another important path is the lines going to the N75 Charge pressure control valve. The picture below shows this air path.

The charge pressure line has two purposes. First these lines equalize the charge pressure between the left and right turbos. Second is to allow the N75 valve regulate the compressed or charged air. The control pressure line also has two purposes. First the line equalizes pressure between the left and right wastegate control valve. Second is to allow the N75 valve to regulate the wastegates.

Get pdf Home Pressure Test Audi 2.7t

Service Light Plus Airbag Reset Tool (10 in 1) Instruction Manual

Service Light Plus Airbag Reset Tool (10 in 1) Instruction Manual

This Service Light & Airbag Reset Tool is an essential tool for resetting of oil service light, service warning light, service mileage, service intervals and airbag on European made vehicles like AUDI, BMW, CITROEN, M. BENZ,MINI, SAAB, SEAT, SKODA,VOLKSWAGEN, VOLVO, etc.

It is light, compact and very convenient without using the OEM Scanner to do the job. Once hooked up to the vehicle Data Link Connector (DLC), it can perform the following functions:
Reset of Oil Service Light
Reset of Service Warning Light
Setting of Oil Service Mileage
Setting of Service Mileage Interval
Setting of 1st
Inspection Service Interval
Setting of 2nd
Inspection Service Interval
Reset of Airbag

This Service Light and Airbag Reset tool is powered up directly through the vehicle Data Link Connector (DLC) except Volvo (A/B connectors) which needed an external 12V DC source. Once connected to the vehicle DLC and the ignition switched to “ON” position, the LCD screen will display:

Select the vehicle you need to work with by pressing the scroll up button or scroll down button to select the vehicle Manufacturer. The asterisk appears next to the number is an indication that it will be selected when OK button is pressed.

Get pdf Service Light Plus Airbag Reset Tool (10 in 1) Instruction Manual

VW/AUDI Big Gear Knob

VW/AUDI Big Gear Knob

For cars with a THREADED gear knob (early Audi,VW,Seat to approx 2005) follow the instructions from point 2
For cars with a SLOTTED gearknob (approx 2005 on) follow the instructions from point 8
1. If fitting to an Audi TT, first using a T20 screwdriver, undo all 8 of the T20 screws surrounding the gear stick. Other cars with a screw on gearknob, skip to point 2….then lift the ring away to expose the rubber underneath
2. Unscrew the existing gearknob… ….and remove the rubber gaitor and aluminium spacer (if applicable) from the gear stick.
3. Push the old aluminium spacer out of the top of the rubber gaitor….. and push the new Forge adaptor into the gaitor from underneath, exposing as many threads as possible.
4. Replace over the shifter rod and push down until the distance between the top of the shifter rod and the top of the Forge adaptor is approx. 28mm (NB: depending on how many threads you managed to push though the gaitor, this dimension may be slightly lower or higher, however this is a good starting point) then tighten the grub screws to hold the adaptor to the gear stick.
5. Replace the trim ring around the gaitor and screw the new knob down as far as it will go. The top of the gear stick should be just below the top of recess inside the top of the knob.
6. Add the shift pattern top cover to the knob, ensuring that its orientated correctly.
7. Installation is complete, enjoy your new purchase !
8. For cars with a SLOTTED gear knob (late Audi/Seat/VW), unclip the gaitor by pulling up at the rear and releasing from the locating lugs at the front, then pull it up as high as you can.

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How much do you value the engine in your car

How much do you value the engine in your car

How much do you value the engine in your car? Think about it, because the life of your engine depends in no small part on the quality of the oil you put in it. Oil is the lifeblood of your car’s engine. From the mid 80’s for 8 or 9 years there was a veritable revolution in car engine oil. All oils are no longer the same. Thanks to the increased popularity of sporty GTi’s, 16 valve engines and turbos in those years, in combination with the devastating problems of black death, the days of one oil catering for everyone were over.

Take Castrol for example. They led the field for years with GTX. This was surpassed a few years back by semi-synthetic and fully synthetic oils, including GTX2 and GTX3 Lightec. Now, that’s been surpassed by Formula SLX which will cost upwards of £50 ($75) for 5 litres. And most recently, Castrol GTX Magnatec which is muscling in on the hitherto separate world of friction reducers (and we’ll deal with them later, on the additives page.).

What does my oil actually do?
An engine oil’s job is primarily to stop all the metal surfaces in your engine from grinding together and tearing themselves apart from friction, and dissipating the heat generated from this process. It also transfers heat away from the combustion cycle and must be able to hold in suspension the nasty by-products of fuel combustion, such as silica (silicon oxide) and acids. It cleans the engine of such chemicals and buildups, and keeps the moving parts coated in oil. Doing this helps minimise exposure to oxygen and thus oxidation at higher temperatures. It does all of these things under tremendous heat and pressure and for the most part without succumbing to fatigue or black death, the ultimate engine destroyer.

What the heck was Black Death?
Black death first appeared in the early 80’s when a horrible sticky black substance was found to be the cause of many engine seizures in Europe. Many engines were affected but Ford and Vauxhall (GM) suffered the most. Faster roads, higher under-hood temperatures, tighter engineering tolerances and overworked engine oils turned out to be contributors to the problem. The oils just couldn’t handle it and changed their chemical makeup under pressure into a sort of tar-like glue. This blocked all the oil channels in the engines, starved them of lubrication and caused them to seize. This could all happen in a matter of minutes. I don’t recommend this but you can reproduce the effect with a frying pan, cooking oil and a blowtorch. The cooking oil will heat up far quicker than it’s designed to and will turn to a sticky black tar in your pan. Either that or it will set fire to your kitchen, which is why I said “don’t do this”.

Anyway, burning kitchens aside, Black Death was the catalyst for the production of newer higher quality oils, many of them man-made rather than mineral-based. Black death for the 21st century

There’s a snappy new moniker for black death now, and it’s called sludge. The cause is the same as black death and it seems to be regardless of maintenance or mileage. The chemical compounds in engine oils break down over time due to prolonged exposure to high temperatures and poor maintenance habits. When the oil oxidises, the additives separate from the

VW / Audi sludge problems
While the the 1.8T engines in Audi A4’s, Audi TT, VW Passat, Jetta, Golf, New Bettle, are all very prone to sludge build-up, Audi/VW does not have an extended warranty for them from the factory. The factory warranty is 4 year/50,000 miles but it can be extended if purchased. Although Audi/VW now has 10,000 mile service intervals, oil changes can be done between “services”, and should be done if the vehicle is driven in heavy traffic, offroad, and non-highway use. Also, Audi/ VW will only warrant an engine if the customer has proof of all their oil changes. As of 2004 I belive all 1.8T engines must use synthetic oil.

So if you own one of these sludge-prone engines, what can you do? Obviously, Volkswagen Audi Group (VAG) recommends that you use only VW/AUDI recommended oil which at the time of writing is Castrol Syntec 5W-40. You should also keep up on your oil changes, making them more frequent.

Get pdf How much do you value the engine in your car

Audi A4 1.8T Quattro (Manual)

Audi A4 1.8T Quattro (Manual)

One of our favorite sedans, the Audi A4 was thoroughly reworked three years ago, and its looks and major components haven’t been tampered with since then, which is okay with us. But in a recent comparison test against an Acura TSX, a Subaru Legacy 2.5GT, and a Volvo S40 T5, the A4 1.8T came in fourth because of its aging engineering. Nevertheless, we liked the S4 performance model introduced last year enough to include it on our 10Best list (see Sports and GT Cars). The rest of this sedan’s mechanical family includes Audi’s 170-hp, four-cylinder 1.8T engine and a 220-hp, 3.0-liter V-6. Four different gearboxes are offered, either standard or optional: a five-speed manual, a six-speed manual, a five-speed Tiptronic automatic, and Audi’s smooth, continuously variable transmission. There are only minor changes in equipment options for 2005.

Roll your cursor over the images above to see how a car placed in our front-wheel-drive competition, then click to find out more about it. Click here to check out the how the rear- and four-wheel-drive cars placed. Ross Converse’s call seeking a spot in our annual hyper-horsepower shootout, the Car and Driver “Supercar Challenge,” was a real surprise. We hadn’t heard from him since 1997, when he visited us from faraway Maine, where he had stuffed a couple of Ford V-8s into two Volvo wagons. Apparently, it took some time for word of our annual supercar event, now entering its fourth year, to penetrate the deep woods of Down East.

Our shootout is a two-day cornucopia of excessive horsepower and speed that’s as close as we can get to the wild and crazy era of the 1970s—when Yates unleashed a flock of nutballs in a cross-country race called the Cannonball—without having to post a lot of bail bonds

Roll your cursor over the images above to see how a car placed in our rear- and four-wheel-drive competition, then click to find out more about it. Click here to check out the how the front-wheel-drive cars placed. This year, we had two classes and lowered the 150-mph top speed. For the front-drive class, the maximum velocity was 130 mph; the rear- or four-wheel-drive class had to reach 140. We also borrowed an exhaust-gas analyzer from Horiba to test for the presence of a catalytic converter. Our measurements were not intended to determine legality, since laws differ from state to state, but we figured if a car had even a chance of being legal, it had to have a cat.

Get pdf Audi A4 1.8T Quattro (Manual)

A Hand Book On Car Hire and Rental Services in Dublin

A Hand Book On Car Hire and Rental Services in Dublin

Are you planning to visit Dublin for your vacation? Dublin Car Hire can help you enjoy your vacation easily. Whether you are visiting Dublin for business or for pleasure, you need a car in order to commute from one place to another. Cabs may not be available easily and costs a lot. Therefore, the better option would be to opt for car hire in Dublin. Once you have hired a car for yourself you can travel anywhere, at anytime and most of all at your own convenience.

For car hire Dublin you can log on to www.dublin-car-hire.com. The website offers a range of different types of cars that can be hired for use during your stay in Dublin. It provides online car rental facility that allows you to make your selection online, in advance. You can log on to the website and check out the wide range of cars that are offered by them. You can take your pick and choose from Polo(Manual), Golf (manual), Passat (manual), Touran (manual), Audi A4 (manual) and Mercedes- Benz C class. It offers various different models and range of cars for hire at Dublin Airport as well.

When you log on to www.dublin-car-hire.com for your online car rental, you first need to fill some important details related to the car hire Dublin. Once you have selected the car, the next step is choosing the pick up location. You can get the Car hire at Dublin airport or choose to pick it up from the Belgard Motors car hire office. Similarly, you need make a choice from these two places for your drop off location as well. The pick up dates and the drop off dates for the car should also be mentioned so that it could be arranged accordingly. If you are travelling with your family and need a child seat, then you need to specify that in advance. Similarly, if you require extra drivers, you have to mention that when making your online car rental booking.

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Blink Fault Code Diagnostic Reference for Volkswagen & Audi

Blink Fault Code Diagnostic Reference for Volkswagen & Audi

Volkswagen and Audi models, beginning with production year 1988 thru 1995, utilize a system of blink codes for injection, ignition and emissions fault diagnosis. These faults can be easily read with a simple set of tools and this document. The tools needed consist of a simple LED test light (this is not needed if the vehicle is equipped with a CHECK ENGINE light) and a small jumper wire. (Jumper wires are normally sold in pairs. One can be used to construct the test light below if needed.)

The test light (if needed) can be constructed with an LED, a 330 ohm 1/4 watt resistor and a jumper wire with alligator clips at each end.
1) Solder the resistor to the ground (-) side of the LED.
2) Cut the jumper wire into 2 pieces (make one slightly longer than the other).
3) Solder the shorter of the 2 wires to the resistor and the other to the Positive side of the LED.
4) Insulate between the LED leads and at the solder joints with some electrical tape or shrink wrap tubing.
**CAUTION**If the car is equipped with an Anti-Theft radio do not do any tests on the electrical system without knowing the radio codes.

TESTING PROCEDURE
1988-90 / 4 cylinder / 50 state models - These models have a test connection near the fire wall or directly behind the air sensor plate.
1988 / 5 cylinder / California models - Records permanent faults.
1988 / 5 cylinder / 49 state models - Does not record permanent faults.
The test light should be connected to the POSITIVE (+) side of the battery and this test plug. The light should now be on, if not reverse the wires. California models will flash the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT for this test.

Turn the ignition to ON but do not start the engine.
Insert a spare fuse or insert the jumper wire into the fuel pump relay for at least 4 seconds, then remove. The beginning of the fault code sequence is a single flash followed by a 2.5 second pause. The next flash series is the first fault code.

Fault codes consist of 4 digits
-1st digit evenly spaced flashes, 2.5sec OFF
-2nd digit evenly spaced flashes, 2.5sec OFF
-3rd digit evenly spaced flashes, 2.5sec OFF
-4th digit evenly spaced flashes, 2.5sec OFF
Each 4 digit code will keep repeating until the fuse is inserted in the fuel pump relay again. When you remove the fuse the second time the next fault code will flash, this will continue until you insert the fuse again.
The end-of-fault display is signaled by a 2.5 second ON light then 2.5 seconds OFF. This is known as code 0000 and will continue until the ignition is turned off.

Get pdf Blink Fault Code Diagnostic Reference for Volkswagen & Audi

MoboScan 8300 VW/AUDI Code Reader User’s Manual

MoboScan 8300 VW/AUDI Code Reader User’s Manual

The MoboScan8300 VW/AUDI Code Reader is specially designed to work with most Volkswagen and Audis sold Worldwide of 1990 or newer models. If a VW/AUDI has a 16-pin “OBD-II style” Data Link Connector (DTC), the Code Reader will certainly work. If it has an old-style 2×2 Data Link Connector (DTC), then it depends on whether there are 4 or 3 wires connecting to the pins. If there are 4 wires, each connecting a pin, then it will work. If there are only 3 wires, leaving one pin disconnected, then it will not work. For VW/AUDIs with old-style 2×2 Data Link Connector (DTC), you need to have a 2×2 cabling adapter which is not included in this product package.

Operating Instructions
CAUTION: Don’ t connect or disconnect any test equipment with ignition on or engine running.
1. Turn the ignition off if it is on.
2. Locate the 16-pin Data Link Connector (DLC), and plug into the Code Reader cable connector.
3. Wait for the LCD display to read “MoboScan 8300”.
4. Turn the ignition on, but do not start the engine.
5. When the display indicates “ ENGINE READ?”, press and release the READ button. An “ENGINE LINK…” message is observed on the display.

Get pdf MoboScan 8300 VW/AUDI Code Reader User’s Manual

Audi A6 2.7T Quattro (Manual) Complete Report

Audi A6 2.7T Quattro (Manual) Complete Report

Audi’s A6 comes in sedan and Avant versions. It is one of the most winsome mid-sizers to meet pavement, with some of the nicest handling this side of a BMW. In 2000, the moderate performance of this otherwise excellent, 3.0-liter V-6-powered, sedan was improved by the addition of two higher-performance versions: the 250-hp, 2.7T twin-turbo V-6 and the 300-hp, 4.2 V-8, both with Audi’s Quattro all-wheel-drive system. In mid-2003, major muscle came along in the limited-run RS 6-powered by a 450-hp, twin-turbo V-8-which immediately finished first in a C/D comparison test. A five-speed automatic with Tiptronic is standard on the 3.0 and 4.2; the 2.7T comes with a six-speed manual (the auto is optional). For 2004, A6s come wired for satellite radio (the receiver is optional), and a sunroof becomes standard on Quattro models.

The new A3, which shares its hatchback-only chassis with the VW Golf and is powered by a sweetheart of a turbocharged 197-hp, 2.0-liter four, adds a 250-hp V-6 and Quattro in December. The A4 cabriolet gets an S model with 18-inch BBS wheels and a sport suspension. The A4 sedan line is filled out with four new variants: the 3.2 Quattro sedan and wagon, a 3.2 front-wheel-drive sedan with a continuously variable transmission (CVT), and the 414-hp V-8 RS 4. A similar CVT model becomes available in the A6, as does an S-line appearance and suspension package for the 3.2 and 4.2 sedans. The A8 was updated midyear with a sport package and gets the big-mouth grille for 2006, something that has spread across the entire line, except for the TT and A4 cabriolet. All Audis will be set up for Bluetooth wireless connectivity and Sirius or XM satellite radio.

Unchanged: TT.
Dead: Allroad.
Future: R9 Le Mans, a two-seat, mid-engine sports car on Lamborghini Gallardo architecture, is due in early 2007. The A4- based Q5 arrives in early 2008. A new TT is also on a near-term schedule. Audi finally adds an SUV, the Q7, which hits showrooms in early 2006.

Get pdf Audi A6 2.7T Quattro (Manual) Complete Report

Geniscan GS200 VW/AUDI Code Reader

Geniscan GS200 VW/AUDI Code Reader

The Geniscan GS200 VW/AUDI Code Reader is specially designed to work with most Volkswagen and Audis sold Worldwide of 1990 or newer models. If a VW/AUDI has a 16-pin “OBD-II style” Data Link Connector(DTC), the code reader will certainly work. If it has an old-style 2×2 Data Link Connector(DTC), then it depends on whether there are 4 or 3 wires connecting to the pins. If there are 4 wires, each connecting a pin, then it will work. If there are only 3 wires, leaving one pin disconnected, then it will not work . For VW/AUDIs with old-style 2×2 Data Link Connector(DTC), you need to have a 2×2 cabling adapter which is not included in this product package.

Product Features and Benefits
· Works with Volkswagen and Audi (Audi/Seat/Skoda/Jetta/Golf/ Beetle/Touareg/GTI/Passat and more) sold worldwide of 1990 or newer models
· Reads and erases Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) of Engine, ABS, Airbags and Automatic Transmission
· Turns off check engine light (MIL)
· Highly reliable and accurate
· Easy-to-read crystal-clear backlit 2-line LCD display
· Easy to use with one plug-in
· Stand-alone unit with no need for an additional laptop computer to operate
· Small in size and conveniently fits in your palm
· Specially designed for DIYers and car-owners
· Safely communicates with the on-board computers
· No batteries needed-powered via OBD II cable

Get pdf Geniscan GS200 VW/AUDI Code Reader
· One-year warranty

MoboScan 8550 User’s Manual

MoboScan 8550 User’s Manual

The MoboScan8550 VW/AUDI Scanning Reader is specially designed to work with most Volkswagen and Audis sold Worldwide of 1990 or newer models. If a VW/AUDI has a 16-pin “OBD-II style” Data Link Connector (DTC), the Scanning Reader will certainly work. If it has an old-style 2×2 Data Link Connector (DTC), then it depends on whether there are 4 or 3 wires connecting to the pins. If there are 4 wires, each connecting a pin, then it will work. If there are only 3 wires, leaving one pin disconnected, then it will not work. For VW/AUDIs with old-style 2×2 Data Link Connector (DTC), you need to have a 2×2 cabling adapter which is not included in this product package.

Scanning Codes
CAUTION: Don’t connect or disconnect any test equipment with ignition on or engine running.
1) Turn the ignition off.
2) Locate the vehicle’s 16-pin Data Link Connector (DLC).
3) Plug into the scan tool cable connector to the vehicle’s DLC.
4) Turn the ignition on. But do not start the engine.
5) Turn the scan tool’s power on.
6) Press the Y button. A sequence of messages showing Main Menu

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Audi Volkswagen Loading Manual

Audi Volkswagen Loading Manual

This publication contains instructions for the proper method of loading and securing Volkswagen and Audi vehicles. Methods other than described and illustrated are not acceptable.

1. To ensure receipt of the proper vehicle, all Volkswagen/Audi vehicle identification numbers (V.I.N.) are located on the dashboard visible through the driver’s side lower windshield. 17 digit V.I.N. number – example – 3VWRT71K17M838290
2. Personnel must wear clean clothing free of objects that could cause damage to the interior or exterior of the vehicle. Gloves are not to be worn inside the vehicle. Jewelry, if worn, and belt buckles, must be covered by protective devices. Smoking inside vehicles is strictly prohibited.
3. Engines should not idle for extended periods prior to and during the loading and unloading process, especially full body cover units, and must be shut off while in transit.
4. Prior to loading, each vehicle should be inspected to ensure that optional and loose shipped items such as radio, CD player, antenna, spare tires, wheel covers, navigation disc, remote keys, etc., are included with the vehicle.
5. Ramp angles and breakover points must meet requirements of product to prevent any front spoiler or undercarriage damage. During loading and unloading operations, vehicles must not be subjected to undercarriage interference from ramps, skids, or tie-down assemblies.
6. Tie-down straps, chains, and hooks must be secured to prevent any contact with the roof of vehicles when loading bottom position units. Chains must be removed from deck runways to prevent any tire damage or undercarriage interference.
7. Automatic transmission vehicles must be set in park, manual transmission vehicles in first gear after vehicles are positioned. Parking brakes must be firmly set before exiting the vehicle.
8. Once vehicles are in final loading position, keys must be removed from ignition, and left on the tether or placed in the left front door pocket. Locking of all vehicles is required if the transport remains unattended.
9. Drivers must never enter or exit a vehicle through the windows or tailgates. In addition, ensure seat and floor protection is in place before entering vehicles.

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10. At all times, vehicles must have hoods, deck lids/tailgates, doors, and windows closed. Doors (with the exception of the driver’s door) and deck lids/tailgates must be locked during transport.
11. Vehicles must never be started by pushing or pulling.
12. Driver is responsible for all damages between truckload and dealer delivery

Model TRU300R Installation Manual

Model TRU300R Installation Manual

Keep wiring away from moving engine parts, exhaust pipes and high-tension cable. Tape wires that pass through holes on the firewall to prevent fraying. Watches out sharp edges that may damage wires and causes short circuit.
CAUTION: Do not connect the wire harness to the control module until all wiring to vehicle is complete.

MAIN 6 PIN WIRE HARNESS:
H1/1 & 3. White wire – Turn Indicator Relay Output (5A Output for each) – The WHITE wires transfer the power taken from the RED/WHITE wire to turn indicators, through the alarm internal relay. Connect one of the two WHITE wires to right line of turn indicator and connect the other one to the left line indicator.
H1/2. Red / White wire – Turn Indicator Power Input – The RED/WHITE wire is the input to the flashing turn indicator relay. The connection of the RED/WHITE wire will determine the output polarity of the flashing turn indicator relay. If the vehicle you are working on has +12volt switched turn indicators, you don’t need connect this wire. This wire already connected to +12volt. If the vehicle’s turn indicators are ground switched, cut the RED/WHITE wire, connect the RED/WHITE to chassis ground.
H1/4. Black wire –- System Ground – This is main ground connection of the alarm module. Make this connection to a solid section of the vehicle frame. Do not connect this wire to any existing ground wires supplied by the factory wire loom, make the connection to the vehicle’s frame directly.
H1/5. Brown wire – Siren Drive or Horn Output – (Set Feature III – 1 Programming) SIREN DRIVE OUTPUT (Factory default setting) This is the positive (+) output connection for the siren. Current capacity is 2 Amp. Make connection to the (+) red wire from the siren. Make the (-) black wire coming from the siren to a good chassis ground. (+) Low Current HORN OUTPUT — (Set Feature III – 1 To Horn Output) This wire is provided to use the existing vehicle’s horn as the alarm system’s optional warning audible device. It’s a transistorized low current output, and should only be connected to the low current positive (+) output from the vehicle’s horn switch.
H1/6. Red wire – System Power (+12V Constant) – The RED wire supplies power to the system. Connect this wire to a constant +12 volt source.

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Audi A4 Brake Installation Manual

Audi A4 Brake Installation Manual

PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION
1. Be sure that the vehicle is parked on level concrete and the parking brake is on.
2. Place stops in front of and behind rear tires.
3. Consult owner’s manual for proper lifting and wheel removal procedures before lifting front of vehicle.
4. Place jack stands under vehicle for added stability.
5. Remove wheel.
6. Place a brake line clamp on the brake line. This will minimize brake fluid loss.
7. Using an 11mm wrench, disconnect brake line from caliper. Be aware that brake fluid may leak from line once disconnected.
8. Disconnect ABS sensor grommet from mounting bracket by pulling straight up.
9. Disconnect brake pad sensor from mounting bracket. Pry tab up gently with small flat head screwdriver, rotate counterclockwise 90 degrees, and lift up.
10. Clip the section of wire between the brake pad and the plug. Be sure to leave sufficient wire length coming from the plug in order to crimp the wires together. Strip 1/8” of the insulation on the wires and connect them together using a wire crimp as illustrated in picture bellow. It is recommended to protect the connection by applying shrink-wrap around the wire crimp.
11. Place the pad sensor plug in the small opening on the upright.
12. With a zip tie included in the kit, secure the plugs placement by zip tying it tightly to the ABS wire that is also running through the upright.

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FSK-6000 Two Way Car Security System Owner’s Manual

FSK-6000 Two Way Car Security System Owner’s Manual

This operation manual details the use of the device contained in the package. It is recommended to look for an experienced technician for device installation.
Warning
Changes or modifications not expressly approved by the manufacturer will void the warranty and the user’s authority to operate the device.

This device complies with Radio Frequency Rules in respective countries.
Operation is subject to the following two conditions:
1. This device may not cause harmful interference.
2. This device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operations.

System Installation Guide
Main Unit Installation
The main unit is placed under the vehicle control panel. After fixing the main unit in a suitable place, start connecting all the wiring according to the Wire Connection Diagram. Before putting back all the OEM parts, simply test the system functions first. The main unit must be fixing tight

Shock Sensor Installation
Install the shock sensor after fixing the main unit. It is recommended to place the shock sensor near the doors for
easy detection of any intrusions. To adjust the sensitivity of the shock sensor, simply use a screw to turn the knob
on the shock sensor, turning right to set a higher sensitivity or vice verse. Then test the sensitivity by triggering the shock sensor.
NOTE: Please do not hit the shock sensor directly.

Antenna Position
The ideal position for the antenna is in the top corner of the front windscreen right up of the wheel side. Please keep the antenna free from any obstructions to prevent reception interference. NOTE: If the vehicle is parked in urban area with many buildings around, or under a strong electric field environment, the reception will be affected.

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LVDS video inserter with integrated audio switch - Audi vehicles with MMI navigation User Manual

LVDS video inserter with integrated audio switch - Audi vehicles with MMI navigation User Manual

This interface should be used to display fixed menus during your journey, for example the MP3 menu for DVD upgrades. The driver of the vehicle must never be distracted by moving pictures. In most countries/states, watching movies whilst driving is prohibited. Therefore, we do not accept any liability for material damage or personal injury resulting, directly or indirectly, from the installation or the operation of this TV-free interface.

Features of IF-VAGMMIVIN2:
Video to LVDS converter with frame rate converting. Frame buffer offers very stable timing to the panel even under poor video signal conditions. De-interlacing video processing for PAL/NTSC/SECAM video with Automatic PAL/SECAM /NTSC selection
High quality video decoder provides 3-dimensional comb filter, and provides high quality video for RGB and AV inputs

High quality image processor makes PAL/SECAM 625-line image displayed on AUDI original 240-line screen without picture distortion or line cropping OSD shows the input channel and interface status

Automatic camera input switch Automatic switching to RGB-input if after market navigation is installed MMI key activation wire for AV switching Anti-audio-POP noise in AV1/2/3 input selection Special connector to eliminate the possibility of wrong-plugging 3 AV inputs, camera input and high quality RGB input, with dip switches to disable each input 2 RCA video outputs for rear seat entertainment.

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1999-2001 Audi A4 (B5) HID conversion installation instructions

1999-2001 Audi A4 (B5) HID conversion installation instructions

The tools you needs:
A drill with a smaller bit such as a 1/4″
A dremel or similar to cut a hole in plastic
T27 Torx bit and driver with 4” extension
Extendable magnet
Pliers

1. Take the kit out of the box and lay everything out. You can install either the ballasts or bulbs first but typically it is easier to install the bulbs first.
2. There are 3 T27 torx screws holding the headlight on. The 2 on top are visible in this picture.
3. with the 2 screws removed…
4. The third screw is shown here. A long extension is needed to get to it and an extendable magnet is helpful to retrieve the screw (or bit if it falls).
5. Disconnect the headlight and turn signal connectors and remove the headlight by pulling it toward the outside of the car and toward you.
6. Drill a 1” hole in the center of the cap as shown. If you use a hole saw that will be all you need. If you use the small drill bit you will need to use your dremel to cut a 1″ hole. You may want to use some sand paper just to smooth the edges you have cut.
7. Some of the bulbs come with adaptors that some other cars require. The Audi installation does not require them. Take your pliers and cut them off. This will allow you to remove the base of the bulb case later on.
8. Feed the AMP connector ends of the bulbs through the hole from the inside out and seat as shown. Seal the provided 1″ gasket in the hole you have made. You should have two connectors coming out of the same side as the bulb that will eventually connect to the OEM harness - these will be connected later. Leave the bulb in the case for now.
9. Now mount the ballast to the underside of the headlight housing with the double-sided tape provided. The square opening is perfect to mount the ballast to but other locations are possible also. There will be extra wiring so try to tie it up out of the way.

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VAG Airbag Reseter User’s manual

VAG Airbag Reseter User’s manual

FUNCTIONS
·Data fault repair of Audi/VW/Opel airbag modules
·Crash data reset of Audi/VW/Opel airbag modules

HARDWARE
·Yellow -Button is used to repair data fault
·Red -Button is used to reset crash data
·Led-Indicators are used to indicate the operating state, while the red led indicate ‘power on’, the green led indicate ‘busy’ and ‘error’, and the yellow led indicate ‘usb port connected’.
·OBD cable is used to connect the tool to the diagnosis socket of the car.
·USB cable is used to connect the tool to the computer for firmware updating.
·Power-Connector is used to supply 12V-DC to the tool. (center of the connecter is power +)
·Adapter-Connector is not used at present.

HOW TO USE
·Data Fault Repair: connect the airbag reseter and the car’s diagnosis socket by the OBD cable, the red led light up, push the yellow button, the green led light up, and for a while the green led black out, this means the data fault has been repaired successfully. ( if the green led becomes flashing, that mean the communication between the tool and the car failed, or data fault repair failed, check the connection and repeat the above procedure.)

·Crash Data Reset: connect the airbag reseter and the car’s diagnosis socket by the OBD cable, the red led light up, push the red button, the green led light up, and for a while the green led black out, this means the crash data has been reset successfully. ( if the green becomes flashing, this mean the communication between the tool and the car failed, or crash data reset failed, check the connection and repeat the above procedure.)

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Audi A6 4B C5 Single-Frame front bumper HF 7551 Installation guide

Audi A6 4B C5 Single-Frame front bumper HF 7551 Installation guide

1. Removal of the original bumper:
Remove all screws which hold the bumper. Also remove the screws which hold the alloy bar and remove the bumper with the alloy bar. Remove the alloy bar from the bumper and install it into the new Hofele-Design bumper.
2. Placement of the Hofele-Design front bumper on the car:
Place the new bumper on the car but do not yet bolt it on.
3. Preparation of the bonnet:
Remove the front grill and the rubber strap behind it. Install the front grill (HF 7052-S4 / RS4) in the extension piece.
4. Placement of the extension piece:
Place the extension piece onto the bonnet/hood and fix it with adhesive tape. Align the front grill so that there is an even slit between bumper and grill.
5. Screwing of the bumper:
After the correct alignment of bumper and front grill you can screw the bumper. Therefore drill two holes with 10mm diameter into the bumper and 8mm diameter into the alloy bar. Then cut a M8 thread into the holes. Use the delivered screws + washers to screw the bumper.
6. Gluing of extension piece and bonnet/hood:
Mark the correct position of the extension piece with adhesive tape. Sand the surface and clean it afterwards. Then apply the special glue (part of delivery) to the extension piece. Place the extension piece on the bonnet/hood and fix it with adhesive tape until the glue is completely dry (at least 24 hours)

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1999 - 2002 Audi S4 ST-22 Rear 328mm Big Brake Upgrade Installation Manual

1999 - 2002 Audi S4 ST-22 Rear 328mm Big Brake Upgrade Installation Manual

Some different models or years of vehicle may use different sized fasteners. Every effort has been taken to correctly identify the proper sized tool for each job. Occasionally, the manufacturer may use an alternate fastener. Check that each tool correctly fits the fastener before loosening or tightening it. The following tools and equipment will be needed:
14mm wrench (in some cases, 9/16” may be required)
11mm box wrench (in addition, an 11mm flare wrench is also recommended)
10mm wrench or socket
10mm Allen (hex) wrench
8mm Allen (hex) wrench
Vise-grip or pliers
Needle-nose pliers or small flat-blade screwdriver
Torque wrenches capable of 10-85 lb-ft settings
Small drip tray or several rags

Small funnel or suitable means of filling master cylinder reservoir Brake bleed bottle 1 pair of jack stands or other means of supporting vehicle DOT 3 or 4 Brake Fluid. Check manufacturer’s recommendation for compatibility. StopTech recommends flushing brake fluid every 1-2 years, or more often under severe usage conditions. If not done recently, the installation of a brake kit is an excellent opportunity to refresh your brake fluid, or to upgrade to a higher-performance fluid, such as Motul 600.

Step 1
Raise Vehicle, and Remove Wheels
Note: All photographs show a left-hand side installation, unless otherwise noted. Some of the images in this manual may not be of the vehicle noted, but they give a proper representation of the correct installation. StopTech recommends working on one side of the vehicle at a time, so that reference can be made to the other side, if any uncertainty arises during the installation.

Warning: Never leave any vehicle supported with only a jack. Always use jack-stands. A level, stable and clean surface, suitable for supporting the vehicle on jack-stands, should be used for the installation.

For a rear kit installation, block the front wheels, and release the parking brake, then break loose the lug nuts on both rear wheels before jacking up the car.

Refer to the owner’s manual to identify the correct location of the jack for raising the vehicle. Jack up the vehicle, and secure it on a pair of jack stands, again referring to the owner’s manual for jack location joints.
After securing the vehicle at a convenient height, remove the front wheels. To make it easier to access the brake line fittings, turn the steering either toward or away from the side that you’re working on, depending on the orientation of the caliper.
If you’re installing a leading caliper, turn the steering toward the side that you’re working on, and if you’re installing a trailing caliper, turn the steering away from the side that you’re working on. This will make it easier to access the caliper bolts.

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Model K10 installation guide

Model K10 installation guide

primary harness (H1) wire connection guide
primary harness (H1) wiring diagram
The primary harness supplied with this unit is the standard 12-pin harness used. Two wires in the plug are not used. The upgrade from this unit to a security system would simply require unplugging and exchanging control units and connecting the necessary wires to the vehicle. The functions of all the wires that are used in the primary harness are outlined in the following wiring diagram and the wire connections are described in the wire connection guides

H1/1 ORANGE (-) Ground-When-Armed Output
This wire supplies a (-) 500 mA ground as long as the system is armed. This output ceases as soon as the system is disarmed. The orange wire is pre-wired to control the starter kill relay.
NOTE: if using the H1/1 Orange wire to activate an add-on accessory such as window automation, pager or voice module a 1Amp diode must be installed to ensure proper operation. Insert the diode as shown in the following diagram

H1/2 WHITE (-) Parking Light Output
This wire provides a (-) 200mA output to flash the parking lights. This is suitable for driving (-) light
control wires in Toyota, Lexus, BMW, some Mitsubishi, some Mazda, etc. If the vehicle has a positive parking light circuit, a relay must be used to flash the parking lights.

H1/3 WHITE/BLUE (-) Channel 3 Output
This wire provides a (-) 200 mA output whenever the transmitter code controlling Channel 3 is received.
This output will continue as long as that transmission is received. Use for options such as a start system, or power window controllers, etc.

H1/4 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200 mA Domelight Supervision Output
Connect this wire to the optional domelight supervision relay as shown in the following diagram:
IMPORTANT! This output is only intended to drive a relay. It cannot be connected directly to the domelight circuit, as the output cannot support the current draw of one or more bulbs.

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