How To Do a Transmission Removal and Clutch Replacement Manual
Removing a transmission and replacing a clutch is a complex and time-consuming procedure. By replacing it yourself, you alone are responsible for the safety and functionality of yourself and vehicle. If you do not want to take that chance, I recommend that you take you car to a Nissan certified mechanic. This article was written after my clutch was replace and the transmission was re-installed. It is very possible that I left out a few steps or remembered them differently. Read the entire article before starting, you may find something too challenging for your level of skill.
If you have any additional information that you would like to see added to this page, send me an email. II. Get the proper tools and parts for the repair: A. Sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, torque wrench, socket wrench, 3/8″ universal joint, extensions (total of at least 20″ long combined). Oh, maybe some duct tape. B. Wrenches: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm. C. Automotive support and lift tools to lift the car high and support the car safely: jack stands (4 large ones preferable), ramps (to place under tires for extra safety), suitable transmission jack (see below). Note: The car is lifted very high off the ground and can become unstable the higher you lift it. Look how high my car is off the ground. I used 2 jack stands and 4 ramps (only 2 touched the tires the other 2 ramps just for safety if the car was to fall. The car should be level when lifted up. Don’t get one end higher than the other. Below is a picture of my floor jack that I converted to a transmission jack. I bolted a piece of plywood (aprox. 1′x2′x3/4″) to a floor jack and used a 6′ nylon strap with ratchet mechanism to secure it. You may need a few pieces of wood to hold the transmission at the correct angle. It is very important not to put the center of gravity of the transmission beyond the base of the floor jack because it will tip over. The transmission is very heavy, expensive, and awkward. You can also rent or buy a real transmission jack. A scissors transmission jack will cost about $60 to $70. A hydraulic transmission jack will cost about $120 to $180. These prices are from a Northern Hydraulic catalog, which has tons of tool and shop equipment. I could not find a place in town that sells one so I made one. You can also rent a transmission jack, look in the yellow pages under rentals. D. A creeper is useful ($20-$40). E. Clutch kit (usually includes clutch plate, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, a pilot bushing). I bought a Cyclone full Kevlar clutch from Clutch Masters for about $550. I did not replace my pilot bushing. F. Plastic clutch alignment tool is a must, it only costs $2-$3 and works for most Nissans/Datsuns (some times included in clutch kit). G. Rear crankshaft oil seal ($17) and some high temperature gasket maker ($3). (Both are optional but highly recommended. You are a fool if you don’t. I don’t want to hear about any one who has to remove their transmission again to replace that seal). I also recommend that you replace the two PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valves ($4 each) because if they get clogged, pressure will build up
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