Auto Manual Resource: September 2009

Aurora HV70M High Performance Ignition Installation Instructions

The HV70M may be mounted in any position (vertical, horizontal etc.). It is however recommended that a location be chosen with free airflow away from direct sources of high heat, such above exhaust manifolds or directly mounted on the engine itself. The supplied 36” high efficiency coil lead allows for remote mounting away from hot and moving engine parts. The coil lead may be shortened after installation should it be required. As well, longer coil leads, up to 72”, are available from your Aurora dealer to aid in difficult installations. Some consideration should be given to the routing of the coil lead in relation to distributor and HV70M mounting location. The coil lead must avoid moving engine parts, or surfaces that could cause abrasion. It is also strongly recommended that the coil lead avoid being bundled with any other wiring harnesses.

Suggested mounting locations are inner fenders or firewalls for pickup trucks and cars. Vans may find locations on firewalls or on the underside of the hood cowling (below windshield). Class “A” style motor homes can accommodate the unit out front on the cowling above the radiator support. Some G.M. powered chassis may find locations behind the distributor on the inside of the floor transition step of the engine cover. Care should be exercised that any under hood locations do not interfere with hood hinge operation or proper hood closure.

The supplied mounting screws are self-drilling and therefore can be driven directly with a #2 Phillips driver bit and a drill. As an option, a 1/8” pilot hole may be drilled and the screws installed with a #2 Phillips screwdriver.

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Ready Brute Towbar Installation Instructions

To insure that you get optimum results from your Ready Brute. Please read through the instructions. The Ready Brute provides the towing assistance you need for your towed vehicle, but only when it is used according to the manufacturer’s instructions. NOTE the following:
• Base Plates need to be installed on your towed vehicle prior to installing the Ready Brute.
• Ready Brute Tow Bars are rated for 8,000 lb. Towing capacity. Be sure that the towed vehicle mounting brackets, safety chains, and hitch are also rated for more than the weight of vehicle to be towed. (Tow bar mounting brackets, safety cables & connector pins are not included.)

FOLLOW THE TOWING INSTRUCTIONS PROVIDED IN THE MANUAL OF YOUR TOWED VEHICLE! YOUR TOWING SYSTEM IS ONLY AS STRONG AS THE WEAKEST LINK!
1. Ready Brute tow bars are designated to tow manual transmission cars or automatics equipped with a lubrication system, transmission pump, drive shaft disconnect or half shaft disconnect.
2. The transmission must be in neutral when towing.
3. Unlock the steering wheel to allow the front wheels of the towed vehicle to “track”.

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Back Up Light System Wiring Instructions

The wiring of the Back Up Light system is very simple and straightforward. Each unit has 3 wires that must be wired to your vehicle to make the unit operate. The red wire needs to be connected to a 12 volt source. The yellow wire needs to be connected to the back up light wire of the vehicle. The black wire needs to connected to ground.

If your vehicle has either a 6 or 7 pin trailer wiring connector you can simplify your installation. These trailer wiring connectors have a 12 volt wire that you can use as your 12 volt power source. The 7 pin connector also has a back up light wire that you can use as your back up light wire source. Below are several examples of how to wire your unit. Choose the one that will make your installation the easiest.

TOGGLE SWITCH OPERATION
On the back side of the unit there is a 3 position toggle switch. In one position, the unit will activate when your ignition switch is on and the vehicle is placed into reverse. This is the position the switch should be left in for normal operation. The center position is off. If you place the toggle switch in the opposite position the unit will come on even with the ignition switch off. This allows you to use the light for many uses such as hooking up a boat trailer, changing a flat tire, or setting up camp in the dark.

TYPICAL INSTALLATION
This installation is for vehicles which do not have a 6 or 7 pin trailer wiring connector.
1. Connect the red wire of the harness to a constant 12 volt source that has a 10 amp capacity. In most cases it will be best to route the wire up the frame rail on the same side as the battery. Be sure and secure the wire with wire ties to protect the wire from exhaust heat and moving parts. You may either connect the wire to the positive side of the battery or to a terminal that is supplied by the battery. Most vehicles will have a terminal in the engine compartment that has a wire coming from the positive side of the battery.
2. Connect the black wire to ground. ( a conductive point on the frame.)
3. Connect the yellow wire to the back up light wire of the vehicle. The easiest place to find this wire is usually under the vehicle at the rear. Most vehicles will have a group of wires going from the drivers side to the passenger side covered in plastic conduit. Pull a small section of the wiring out of the plastic conduit. In most cases the back up light wire will be a green wire. Make sure the vehicle is in park and apply the emergency brake. Turn the ignition switch to the on position and place the transmission into reverse. DO NOT crank the vehicle. This will power up the back up light wire. You can now take a prick type tester and prick thru the wire covering with the point of the tester to locate the wire. When you locate the wire with power, put the vehicle into park and turn off the ignition switch. Test the wire again as there should not be any power with the transmission in park and the switch off. Using the wire splice supplied, splice the yellow wire to the back up light wire of the vehicle. Using electrical tape, wrap the spliced area to protect from moisture. Place the wires back inside of the plastic conduit.
In a few instances the rear lighting wiring may be routed on the inside of the vehicle. In these vehicles it is easiest to find the access panel for the rear lighting and test for the back up light wire at the wiring coming into the back up lamp. You can then make your connection here.

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Retrogauge Mini-Tach Instructions

The RetroGauge™ Mini-Tach is designed for use with a standard ignition coil as factory fitted to 1967 and 1968 Ford Mustangs. For aftermarket ignition systems please read the important application note at the bottom of the page.
INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal from the vehicle to completely isolate the electrical system.
2. Remove the instrument cluster according the to the workshop manual (several internet resources are also available to cover this procedure)
3. Unplug the instrument wiring harness from the main wiring loom and the wiper switch wiring harness from the rear of the cluster.
4. Unscrew the speedometer cable nut and carefully withdraw the cable from the speedometer shaft.
5. Lay the cluster face down on a flat surface using a towel or similar to prevent any scratches to the instrument bezel
6. Using a Phillips (cross head) screwdriver remove the three screws retaining the plastic blanking plate or clock assembly. If the cluster is fitted with a clock the solitary wiring socket must be unplugged (blue with black stripe) and securely taped back into the harness. This should NOT be used for powering the Mini-Tach.
7. Remove the Mini-Tach from the die-cut packaging and carefully fit it into the cluster ensuring the two tabs locate in the housing flange. The Mini-Tach should now sit flush with the cluster and the three screw holes should align.
8. Re-fit the three Phillips head screws and hand tighten.
NOTE: While the cluster is out we recommend checking and replacing all dash cluster bulbs and/or blue lighting filters. Both items can be sourced from your favorite Mustang parts vendor.

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1989 Mustang 5.0 LX Coupe Door Panel Clips Installation Instructions

Door panel clips get torn up pretty badly if the panel was ever taken off after Ford originally put
them on. This results in some annoying squeaks and rattles from the panel not being able to
snug closely to the door. If you ever have to take the panel off for some reason (i.e. speaker install,
door lock actuator replacement, etc), then its worth getting new door panel clips while you’re at it.

You can see the full images of this installation instructions at the pdf.

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1000-Renk1 Rear End Narrowing Kit

PREPERATION
1. Disassemble and clean housing. Use a good grease cutting solvent to remove the lube residue.
Follow this with warm soapy water, such as from the car wash.
a. On “Drop Out” style housings, such as 9” Ford, you must remove the “Drop Out” and then clean the housing as described above. We recommend that you get a used “Drop Out” from a junk yard and use this for your fixture case. This way you will only have minimal work to re-setup your gears. Place the appropriate pucks into the carrier bearing locations. Screw the bearing cap bolts finger tight. Slip the bar through the assembly and then tighten the cap bolts. Remove the shaft.
b. On “One Piece” style housings, such as 12 Bolt & Dana, you will have to remove the ring gear carrier assembly, be sure to keep track of any shims. With the ring gear carrier assembly removed clean the housing as described above. Place the appropriate pucks into the carrier bearing location. Screw the bearing cap bolts finger tight. Slide the bar through the housing assembly and then tighten the cap bolts.
2. Determine the desired width, pinion offset and cut locations using the supplied work sheet. You might want to make copies of the work sheet for future jobs. There is an example on the back of the work sheet. This is a very critical step and care should be taken to get it right. Measure as many times as needed to be sure that you have all the correct numbers before moving to the next step.
3. After you have determine the desired width, pinion offset and cut locations using the supplied work sheet you are ready to cut the ends off of your housing. We recommend cutting the exsisting ends off close to the bearing end between 1” & 2” back from the flange. If there are seals in the end be sure to cut behind them. The best cuts will be made with a HORIZANTAL BAND SAW or a CHOP SAW.

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AODE Transbrake Instructions

This transbrake has been thoroughly tested before being packed and shipped. Proper operation depends on following a few basic instructions. As you may know, the AODE/4R70W transmissions are computer controlled and must retain all wiring connections inside and outside the transmission. The following photos will help with the installation and operation of this transbrake.

This transbrake employs the following features:
- All automatic shifting functions are retained
- Transbrake will only operate in manual low
- Computer pressure regulation is retained
- Transbrake must be operated in (R) to back up
- Factory OEM filter and pan is retained

Tool List:
- Metric sockets (8mm, 10mm, 13mm)
- Flat screwdriver
- 5mm allen wrench or socket
- 3/8 drill

Installation Instructions:
1. Raise vehicle and secure firmly.
2. Remove transmission pan, filter, and electrical connectors.
3. Remove detent spring and roller.
4. Remove twenty-four (24) valve body bolts and EPC bracket.
5. Remove valve body and lay on a clean work surface.
6. Remove shift solenoid pack and TCC solenoid and reinstall onto new valve body. Wiggle the solenoids back and forth to remove and install.
7. If installing AODE FULL MANUAL, look at guidelines at end.
8. Make sure new valve body gasket has remained installed on the transbrake valve body.
9. Place new valve body onto case, making sure manual valve is engaged into shift lever, and loosely start all the bolts making sure the long and short bolts go back into their respective holes.
10. Make sure the EPC bracket is installed to hold the EPC solenoid into the case.
11. Reinstall the wire connectors onto the EPC, TCC and shift solenoids.
12. Reinstall filter.
13. Drill a 3/8” hole into the side of the transmission pan in the approximate location. As long as the wire will reach and not interfere with the linkage or anything else this location is not critical. Apply silicone sealer around the connector and install into pan and snug out. Not too tight, it is only plastic.
14. Install new pan gasket, connect transbrake solenoid wire to pan connectors and install pan.
15. Fill transmission with four (4) quarts of ATF (Mercon V). This level will be finalized after the vehicle is started and brought up to operating temperature.

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Dynalite Pro Series Rear Parking Brake Kit Vented Rotor Type Assembly Instructions

Before any tear-down or disassembly begins, it is important to verify which bearing you have. There are two types of “Green Bearings” being supplied by axle manufacturers. Your setup should look like Figure 2 (below left), not the Figure 1 configuration, otherwise this kit will not fit. Furthermore, review the wheel clearance diagram (Figure 3, below right) to verify that there is adequate clearance with the wheels you will be using with this installation.

Installation of this kit should ONLY be performed by persons experienced in the installation and proper operation of disc brake systems. Before assembling the Wilwood rear axle disc brake kit, double check the following items to ensure a trouble-free installation.
•Make sure this is the correct kit to fit the axle housing flange, not necessarily the rear end make. Many times after market manufacturers put a different make of axle housing flange on the stock rear end housing (see Figure 9). Example; Big Ford rear ends with Olds-Pontiac flanges, therefore, an Olds-Pontiac rear disc brake kit would be the correct kit to order. Also, shock clearance may be a problem. They may have to be modified and/or relocated to clear the Wilwood kit after final assembly.
•Inspect the package contents against the parts list to ensure that all components and hardware are included.

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05-07 Ford Focus Gauge Faces Installation Instructions

This is just a guideline for replacement of the gauge faces on the Ford Focus. Please don’t hold me responsible for anything that may go wrong while following these instructions. These instructions are for entertainment usage only. If you learn something from these instructions, congratulations.
1. The panel under the steering wheel will have to be removed. This is the panel to which the hood release is attached. Once this has been removed, you can access the bolts along the bottom of the panel that surrounds the gauge cluster. Don’t forget the bolt over by the headlight switch. Once the bolt shave been removed, grab the trim piece around the cluster and pull it towards you. The whole piece will unclip and separate from the dashboard. Unclip the trunk/hatch release button (if so equipped). You can now access the bolts that hold the cluster into the dash.
2. Remove the 4 bolts holding the cluster into the dash. Reach around the back and disconnect the electrical connection. You will lose your trip odometer information, but the odometer mileage will not be lost.
3. The clear window and the black bezel on the front of the cluster are glued together and detach from the cluster once you pry up the 4 clips. Once the bezel has been removed, you will see the entire gauge face.
4. Mark the location of the needles at their current position with a felt tipped pen on the white part of the cluster. Using a standard fork, remove the gauge needles. Here is a video of how I do it: Click Here
5. At this point, the stock gauge face has to be removed. It is glued to the clear plastic frame. If you can get your fork in between the face and the framework, you can work it off very quickly. The stock gauge face should now be liberated from the cluster.
6. If you are replacing the faces and not upgrading the lighting, skip to step 10. There are 5 Torx screws located around the perimeter of the clear plastic. These will have to come out. This will allow the removal of the clear plastic. Now the white plastic framework (I painted mine silver in the photos below) that you can see has to be removed from the cluster. This requires dismantling of the entire cluster. Don’t worry, It’s actually pretty easy. From the back side of the cluster, you will see some clips that hold it all together. There might be one or two Torx screws in there, I’m not certain, based on the model year. You will have to remove the circuit board from the white plastic framework in order to do the necessary modification. This is due to the fact that in some places the cluster is not deep enough for the strip to be installed in the location that it is required to obtain even lighting. If the strip is not mounted far enough away from the center of the gauges, the lighting can be slightly blotchy, and no one wants that.

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01-02 Ford S.D. Powerstroke 7.3L DSL PowerAid Throttle Body Spacer Installation Instructions

Installation Instructions. Read Me!
1. DISCONNECT NEGATIVE (-) BATTERY CABLE.
2. Loosen clamp at intake manifold leaving clamp on hose.
3. Slide hose tube assembly back and insert power plate into hose.
4. Reinstall tube hose assembly making sure power plate is engaged in tube while locating and tightening hose clamp.
* Please Note: When installing the power plate in the intake manifold, face the power plate using the illustration below. Figure. 1
5. Before tightening intake manifold clamp, be sure that the power plate has engaged both the intake manifold and formed intake tube.
* Please Note: The outside diameters of the power plate will fit the inside diameters of the intake manifold and the formed intake tube.
6. Reconnect battery cable. Enjoy!

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Ford Focus 2.0L Zetec Tru-Time Cam Gears Installation Instructions

You have just purchased the BEST adjustable cam sprockets available. These AEM billet aluminum adjustable cam gears are CNC machined from billet aluminum and then laser etched with cam timing marks for adjustment up to ±10° at the cam or ±20° at the crankshaft. Using the vernier scale on the sprocket hub helps to do the cam timing changes quickly and accurately. The inner hub is anodized for lasting beauty and resistance to corrosion. The out gear sector is hard anodized for resistance to wear. We have found that there are significant power gains to be made by adjusting the cam timing even with stock cams and compression. Adjustable cam sprockets are usually required in applications where an aftermarket or reground performance cams are installed or the cylinder head has been milled 0.005” or more. The use of these cam sprockets allows the extraction of maximum power from your engine. We have recorded gains of up to 1015 horsepower due to cam timing tuning using adjustable cam sprockets.

When an aftermarket or reground cam is installed, the original manufacturer’s cam timing specifications are no longer accurate. The adjustable cam sprocket allows you to make necessary adjustments to cam timing to maximize the performance of your engine. This is accomplished by “degreeing in” the optimum cam timing for a particular engine set up.

The adjustable cam gear is especially effective when used with heads that have been milled. The adjustability of the gear allows the accommodation of the changes in cam timing due to the variation of timing belt length from the bottom gear to the top gear when the head is milled. If the head has been milled 0.005” or greater the relationship between the head and the block is altered by moving the head closer to the crankshaft resulting in retarded cam timing.

It must be emphasized that the preceding descriptions are generalizations and any adjustments made must be done with a conservative approach and on a dynamometer or on a racetrack. We do not condone any illegal activity on the street.

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302-460 Ford, 340-360 Small Block Chrysler, Pontiac, Olds and AMC Gear Drive Installation

This unit is made of aircraft quality steel right here in the United States, all in Milodon’s own plant. With proper installation, this gear drive will out last and out perform any other cam timing device available. Follow these instructions carefully. We recommend that the engine be on an engine stand to install the gear drive. If this gear drive is to be installed on a fully assembled engine, rather than just initially being assembled, rotate the engine to T.D.C. #1 cylinder compression stroke. Remove the stock cover, gears, timing chain. Prepare the front of the block with a stone or file, and debur the area around the front of the cam boss.

Install the mounting plate, using the Milodon supplied bolts, loosely in the stock cam retainer bolt holes. Place the 3 piece roller bearing assembly on the back of the new cam hub. Be sure the bearing has a thrust washer on each side . Installation Tip: Bearings can be held in place while assembling by coating with thick grease. Slide the hub assembly on the front of the cam. Be sure the dowel pin is in good condition then proceed to install the cam gear on the hub. The Milodon cam hub for 14200 and 14600 Fords is double drilled to stop shearing off the single facrory dowel, and any high end use should use a doulbe doweled cam to match this hub. The hub has a seven bolt verneer pattern. Bolt it up in any hole location at this time. Install the crank gear with the chamfer toward the engine.

You can now proceed with the backlash adjustment. Use a single strip of newsprint (not gloss magazine paper) 1/2″ wide x 6″ long, and wrap the newsprint around the idler gear, between the cam gear, idler gear and crank gear. Press the mounting plate and idler gear assembly firmly by hand toward the cam and crank gears , being sure the newsprint is in place. This centers the idler gear between the other two gears as well as sets the lash between two pairs of gears all in one procedure. A dial indicator while appearing more high tech, can not accomplish all these procedures.

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1999-2004 Ford SuperDuty 4×4 Lift and Level Kit Installation

1. With the truck on the ground, remove the track bar bolt at the differential Lift truck up, and make sure it is safe by using jack stands or a 2-post lift that locks in place.
1. Support the front axle with a support jack equipped with the proper fixture.
2. Undo the sway bar links.
3. Undo the four U-bolts on the passenger side leaf springs ONLY. Make sure the differential is supported as it may fall at this point.
4. If the truck has hydraulic shocks, just slide them up and out of the way. If the truck has gas shocks, it will be easier to remove them.
5. On the drivers side, LOOSEN but DO NOT REMOVE the U-bolts on the drivers side leaf springs. This will enable the passenger side to sag enough to get the Lift and Level kit into place.
6. Remove the center bolt on the passenger side.
7. Install the Lift and Level kit with new center bolt on the passenger side. You may wish to cut off any extra length of the center bolt once it is installed and tightened.
8. Slide the shock back on and use the pair of U-bolts to clamp the leaf springs together. DO NOT TIGHTEN the nuts on the U-bolts, just snug them enough to hold the assembly together.
9. Repeat steps from 3 to 8, using the other pair of U-bolts on the drivers side leaf spring assembly
10. Tighten all 8 U-bolts after both spring packs are installed.
11. Re-attach the sway bar links
12. Put the truck on the ground before re-attaching the trackbar. Have an assistant start the truck and turn the steering wheel until the trackbar lines up. Re-install trackbar bolt and check all the fasteners for correct torque. Test drive and align vehicle. Always check fasteners after the first test drive.

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1966-1977 Ford Bronco with Sport Bar Bikini Installation Instructions

Before you begin installing this top assembly, read all instructions thoroughly. After completing the installation, keep these instructions for further reference. Below are a few tips to make this installation easier.

For a smooth fit:
For ease in installation, the top should be installed at temperatures above 72° F. Below this temperature, the top may contract an inch or more, making it difficult to fit to the vehicle. It is normal for a top to contract and wrinkle when stored in the shipping carton. Within a few days after the installation, the top will relax and the wrinkles will disappear.

Step One
Install Footman Loops
Install the Footman Loops on the floor in front of the tailgate opening and just inside of the sport bar mount. Use the loop as a template to mark, center punch and drill two 5/32″ holes. Install the Footman Loop with two #10 x 1/2″ Oval Head Phillips Screws. Do this on both sides of the vehicle.
Step Two
Install Bikini Fabric Slide the extrusion along the front of the Bikini into the channel in the windshield header. Make sure the fabric is centered on the vehicle.

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2005-2009 Ford F-250 Super Duty 4WD w/Camper Package ReadyLiftо Installation

Pre-Installation Notes
1. Special literature required: OE Service Manual for model/year of vehicle. Refer to manual for proper disassembly/reassembly procedures of OE and related components.
2. Adhere to recommendations when replacement fasteners, retainers and keepers are called out in the OE manual.
3. Larger rim and tire combinations may increase leverage on suspension, steering, and related components. When selecting combinations larger than OE, consider the additional stress you could be inducing on the OE and related components.
4. Post suspension system vehicles may experience drive line vibrations. Angles may require tuning, slider on shaft may require replacement, shafts may need to be lengthened or trued, and U-joints may need to be replaced.
5. Secure and properly block vehicle prior to installation of ReadyLift Suspension Inc. components. Always wear safety glasses when using power tools.
6. If installation is to be performed without a hoist, ReadyLift aSuspension Inc. recommends rear alterations first.
7. Due to payload options and initial ride height variances, the amount of lift is a base figure. Final ride height dimensions may vary in accordance to original vehicle attitude. Always measure the attitude prior to beginning installation.

POST-INSTALATION WARNINGS
1. Check all fasteners for proper torque. Check to ensure for adequate clearance between all rotating, mobile, fixed, and heated members. Verify clearance between exhaust and brake lines, fuel lines, fuel tank, floor boards and wiring harness. Check steering gear for clearance. Test and inspect brake system.
2. Perform steering sweep to ensure front brake hoses have adequate slack and do not contact any rotating, mobile or heated members. Inspect rear brake hoses at full extension for adequate slack. Failure to perform hose check/ replacement may result in component failure. Longer replacement hoses, if needed can be purchased from a local parts supplier.
3. Headlight adjustment is highly recommended.
4. Re-torque all fasteners after 500 miles. Always inspect fasteners and components during routine servicing.

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Ford Truck Steering Shafts Installation Instructions

REMOVAL:
1. Engage the steering column / ignition switch lock with the steering wheel & wheels centered. (NOTE It may be necessary to remove the upper and lower steering shaft bolts prior to locking for accessibility)
2. Remove the stock steering assembly by removing the bolts that attach it to the steering box and steering column shafts. This connection is often rusted and may require penetrating oil or a few taps with a hammer.

INSTALLATION:
3. If the shaft assembly is too long to fit even when fully collapsed, the telescoping shaft must be cut to length. Remove the upper universal joint from the tubular end of the Borgeson assembly. Install the steering box universal joint onto the steering box input shaft to the depth shown in Figure B. With the telescoping shaft fully extended, the tubular end should be cut so that it is flush with the tip of the steering column shaft. This will allow movement in each direction and the maximum amount of collapsibility.
4. Reinstalling the universal joint on the Borgeson telescoping shaft requires drilling one hole in the tube. Refer to Figure C. Install the universal joint on the end of the telescoping shaft to the depth shown in Figure B. Tighten the short set screw against the tubular shaft to secure the joint in position. Remove the long set screw and mark the position of the new set screw hole on the shaft with a pencil or a punch. Remove the universal joint. Do not drill through the u-joint At the point marked on the shaft drill a 3/8” diameter hole through one wall of the tube only. Put the universal joint back in position on the tube and install the longer set screw so that it passes through the drilled hole and bears against the opposite wall of the tube. Tighten both set screws and then lock nuts to secure the universal joint to the tubular shaft.

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COMP Cams Billet Timing Sets Instructions

COMP Camsо Billet Steel Timing Sets are the most reliable units available. They give the installer the ability to fine-tune the powerband of the cam by allowing the cam to be positioned from 0 to 8-degrees advanced or retarded in 2-degree increments. Remember: The camshaft angle is half the crankshaft angle, therefore the camshaft will correspondingly advance or retard 1, 2, 3 or 4-degrees. This allows the centerline of the camshaft to be “dialed-in” more accurately than with the use of cam degree bushings.

Installation:
We recommend the chain and sprockets be pre-assembled before final assembly of the motor to check for any interference between the block and the timing set. When installing or removing the lower crank gear, which is a “press fit”, proper puller/installation tools should be used to prevent possible damage to either the sprocket or the crankshaft snout. Extra care should be given to the front of the block where cam thrust is set to prevent excessive wear.

Please review the diagram on the back page of these instructions, as your crank gear may not be stamped showing the timing marks for advancing or retarding the camshaft. The crankshaft keyway and the correlating cam phase markings are noted on the diagram. This diagram has been provided to assist in the more accurate phasing of your camshaft.

Ford Windsor Instructions
To use the thrust bearing in the #8138 kit, you will need to counter sink the holes in the thrust plate and use counter sink bolts (not included), that will tighten flush or below the thrust plate surface. Affix the bearing to the engine side of the sprocket with the black mark facing the engine. Note: Failure to perform this modification to the thrust plate will destroy the bearing during installation due to the thrust plate bolt to thrust bearing contact.

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Mileage Breakeven Points Instructions for Fleet Plan Preparations

Mileage breakeven points are developed to determine at what point it is financially more advantageous to provide a state motor vehicle (usually an automobile) to an employee instead of paying the employee a mileage reimbursement for the employee’s use of a privately owned motor vehicle and vice versa. Fleet managers will use mileage breakeven point analysis as a tool in analyzing vehicle assignments and usage in their departments. Mileage breakeven point analysis cannot be used in reviewing all vehicle assignments, as mitigating factors may exist. Factors such as type of use of the vehicle and add on equipment may make it impractical to utilize mileage breakeven point analysis in determining vehicle assignments.

Note: While it may be impractical to utilize mileage breakeven point analysis, the fleet manager should consider other options, i.e. the use of motor pools instead of assignments to employees or units.

Methodology
Mileage breakeven points are developed by comparing motor vehicle depreciation and operating costs to the cost of the mileage reimbursement. An example of how a specific breakeven point was developed will be shown in the Calculation section, but it is important to understand each component of the calculation. Listed below are descriptions of each component.
Acquisition Cost: The cost of the motor vehicle, including options.
Resale Value: The projected value, less selling fees, of the vehicle when ready for resale.
Depreciable Cost: Acquisition cost less the resale value.
Depreciation Years: The projected number of years that the motor vehicle is expected to be utilized before resale.
Annual Depreciation: The projected depreciation charge per year. The charge is calculated by subtracting the resale value from the depreciable cost and dividing by the depreciation years.
Lifetime Operating Cost: The projected operating cost of the motor vehicle over its lifetime. Operating cost should include all fuel, maintenance and repairs (including non-reimbursed accident damage) and vehicle liability insurance. Projected lifetime operating cost will likely have to be based upon available historical data and an inflation factor. Operating Cost Per Mile: The projected operating cost per mile over the lifetime of the motor vehicle. Operating cost per mile calculated by dividing the lifetime operating cost by the actual or projected mileage.

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Jegs Chevy Instructions

1. Remove stock timing cover. Rotate engine to top dead center of cylinder #1 so that the timing marks on the original crank and cam sprockets are directly lined up with each other, i.e. the mark on the crank sprocket will be at 12 o’clock (straight up) and the mark on the cam sprocket will be at 6 o’clock (straight down).
2. Remove sprockets and chain.
3. Install desired offset bushing from enclosed set. Set selection provides 0-Gray, 2-Gold, 4-Copper, 6-Silver, 8-Black, Camshaft Degree Options.
4. Install cam and crank gears.
5. Torque enclosed cam bolts with washers to the factory spec of 21 ft/lbs.
6. Bend lock plate tabs over bolt heads to lock cam bolts.
7. Install camshaft thrust bearing assembly.
8. CAMSHAFT THRUST BEARING COVER CLEARANCE TEST With camshaft endplay at max rearward travel, place clearance putty over front face of the camshaft thrust bearing assembly. Install timing cover with gasket. Hand tighten cover bolts. Remove cover and check putty.
9. Grind camshaft thrust bearing face as to provide the required .005”-.010” endplay clearance.
10. Install dog bone idler assembly as in figure 1.
Notes: Power Idler (large gear) must be installed on left hand side as shown (when you are facing engine). Crankshaft gear will force Power Idler (large gear) into tight mesh with camshaft gear as crankshaft rotates clockwise. Reverse Idler (small gear) should have free vertical movement of .005”- .075” when drive idler gear is in solid mesh with cam and crank gears. Gear damage will occur from excessive friction if Reverse Idler (small gear) does not have sufficient running clearance.

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Titan Fuel Tanks Installation Instructions

Step Description
1. Place the vehicle on a hoist that leaves the entire underside of the frame.
2. Drain all the fuel from the original equipment tank using a pump or siphon. In some cases Dodge tanks have a screen at the tank inlet which won’t allow a siphon hose to enter. In this case, it may be necessary to drive the vehicle until fuel is as low as possible in the tank.
3. Disconnect 1 ½” fuel tank full hose and ¾” vent line hose from fill spout, leaving them attached to the tank.
4. Disconnect electrical connection, feed line and return line from the sending unit. Press in the tabs on the connection fittings to release fuel lines.
5. Support the original equipment tank.
6. Loosen original equipment tank straps by undoing inside bolts first using15 mm deep socket.
7. Remove original equipment tank with its straps from the vehicle.
8. Tuck any wiring harness, differential breather hose (if applicable), and brake lines Up on top of the frame as the new tank will need to be positioned next to the frame for its entire length.
Note: Some truck models may be equipped with a wiring harness for gooseneck and 5th wheel trailers. This will need to be moved to a new location and secured once the new tank is installed—generally behind the tank is best.
9. Remove the sending unit from the original equipment tank by rotating the hold-down ring counter-clockwise and carefully lifting the unit out. Be sure to clean the sending unit and the surrounding area thoroughly before removing the sending unit (See Fig. 2).
10. Remove the factory “O” ring gasket from the sending unit. Do not use on new tank.
11. Remove fill line hose and vent hose from original equipment tank.

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TF-80/81SC, TF-60SN Lockup Clutch Control Valve Kit Instructions Datasheet

Adapter plate F-15741-TL29PL is required to hold VW 09G (TF-60SN) and Volvo/Opal (TF-80SC) valve body sections while reaming. Adapter plate is not required for Ford/Mazda (TF-81SC).
Note: Mounting instructions are included with the Adapter plate F-15741-TL29PL. Disassembly Steps
Remove the retainer, plunger sleeve with plunger valve, spring and lock-up valve. Keep the retainer for re-use and discard all other OE pieces.

Important Notes:
1. Clean the bore thoroughly in a solvent tank.
2. Generously lubricate the bore and reamer with cutting fluid (i.e. Mobilmet S-122, Lubegard Bio-Tap, Tap Magic™, etc). For best results, provide a continuous flow of water-soluble cutting fluid (i.e. Mobilmet S-122) during the reaming process.
3. The reamers should be turned using a low rpm, high torque air drill regulated to a maximum of 200 rpm.
4. Examine the bore after cleaning for surface finish, debris, and burrs. Flashing and burrs on the exit side of lands and bores must be carefully removed. A small piece of Scotchbrite™ material attached to a wire and powered with a drill motor is ideal for the task.

Get pdf TF-80/81SC, TF-60SN Lockup Clutch Control Valve Kit Instructions Datasheet

PickUp Truck Installation Instructions

1. Line up the 48” Tracks so the outside of the tracks are 50” apart.
Note: On Ford F150 you will only be able to space the 48″ tracks 49 1/2″ apart, up against the wheel wells.
2. Now line up the edge of the tracks 6” from the back of the bed.
3. Notice the 5 pre-drilled holes in the tracks - drill a 1/8” pilot hole in each location for the Pan Head Sheet Metal Screws. Also, depending on the vehicle, use the supplied track shims to level the bottom of the track due to the ribs on the bottom of the bed.
4. Using the Pan Head Sheet Metal Screws and a Screw Driver, screw down the 48” Tracks.
5. Take the 2 24” Tracks and line them up at the back of the 48” Tracks so they are facing the same direction, and are also 50” apart on the outside.
Note: vehicles with shorter beds like the Crew Cab Trucks may need to shorten the 24” tracks, and require new holes to be drilled into the tracks to secure them properly.
6. Take the 3 pre-drilled holes in the 24” tracks and drill a 1/8” pilot hole in each location for the Pan Head Sheet Metal Screws.
7. Using the Pan Head Sheet Metal Screws and a Screw Driver, screw down the 24” Tracks
8. This step is specific to the follow Vehicles:
Ford F150 / Dodge Ram
On the back side of the Driver Side, Side Box measure 3” (2” for 8ft bed) in from the left side of the Side Box and mark.Then measure 3” (2” for 8ft bed) up from the bottom of the Side Box and mark. Now drill a 1/8” pilot hole in this location. Repeat this step for the Passenger Side, Side Box.

Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra / Ford F250/F350 Lay the Drivers Side, Side Box on its side, so the back section that sits against the bed is down. Now on the bottom section of the Driver Side, Side Box that rest over the wheel well, measure 3” (1 ½” for 8ft bed) in from the right side of the Side Box and mark. Then measure 3” down from the top of the Side Box and mark. Now drill a 1/8” pilot hole in this location. Repeat this step for the Passenger Side, Side Box.

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1997-03 Ford 4WD F150, Super Crew & Expedition 6″ Performance Suspension System

FRONT SUSPENSION INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. With the vehicle on level ground set the emergency brake and block the rear tires. Jack up the front end of the truck and support the frame rails with jack stands. NEVER WORK UNDER AN UNSUPPORTED VEHICLE! Remove the front tires.
2. Locate the torsion bar adjusting cams and threaded bolts. Measure exposed threads of torsion bar adjusting bolts and record for reinstallation. Mark torsion bars indicating driver and passenger. Using a torsion bar removal tool unload the torsion bars and remove the crossmember and bars. Retain the hardware for reinstallation. NOTE- Do not attempt to unload or remove torsion bars without the proper torsion bar tool. Torsion Bars are under extreme spring load.
3. Working from the driver side of the vehicle disconnect the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle by striking the knuckle to dislodge the tie rod end. Use care not to damage the tie rod end when removing.
4. Remove brake caliper and place next to frame. Do not overstretch bake hose when doing so. Retain hardware for reinstallation SEE PHOTO BELOW
5. Remove brake rotor, axle nut dust cover, cotter pin and axle nut. Remove ABS line and retaining clip from steering knuckle. Remove dust shield and discard.
6. Remove the upper and lower ball joint nuts and cotter pins. Disconnect the upper and lower ball joints from the steering knuckle by striking the knuckle with a large hammer next to each ball joint on the knuckle to dislodge the ball joints. Use care not to hit the ball joints when removing. Retain hardware and discard knuckle.
7. Working off the vehicle remove hub assembly from steering knuckle, retain hardware and parts for reinstallation
8. Taking care remove the stock wheel seal from the stock steering knuckle noting the direction of the seal lip. Reinstall this factory seal in to the new steering knuckle FT30006D for driver side and FT30006P for passenger side with lip in same direction.

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2000-2003 Ford Triton FT514125LDT46K 4.6 2 Valve Heads Installation instructions

Instructions for installing spark plug thread repair insert in the Ford Triton 2 valve 2000 to 2003 heads
Full Thread style inserts should be used when both heads have been removed from the engine and all 8 cylinders are upgraded to prevent future failures.

Deep Reach style inserts should be used when only installing one insert during an in-frame installation. This will assure that all spark plug holes are the same and installation of the wrong spark plug can’t happen to an unsuspecting future owner of the vehicle.

FT514125CC4V counterbore cutter is used to trim out the corner of the bore. This tool is used when there are still good threads in the hole. Use this tool first when upgrading the head to fully threaded inserts.

Use a 6 point socket to drive the cutter. It has stops built in to prevent cutting too deeply. Use it only when upgrading to fully threaded inserts and only in holes that still have good threads. Do not use in stripped or previously failed thread repair holes.

Get pdf 2000 to 2003 Ford Triton FT514125LDT46K 4.6 2 Valve Heads Installation instructions

Spin-On By-Pass Filter Installation and Servicing Instructions

Spin-On By-Pass Filter Installation and Servicing Instructions
attaching the filter mount
1. Survey the engine compartment for possible mounting locations. Solid structures such as the firewall, fender well, radiator support or frame are normal locations. (Do not mount on engine.) Refer to diagram B for minimum area requirements and consider accessibility for servicing.
2. Refer to diagram A for preferred mounting positions.
3. When the location has been determined, use the mounting template provided to locate and mark mounting holes. This can be easily done with a center punch and hammer.
4. Install adapter fittings (BP-208) on filter mount using provided thread sealant as noted in diagram C. If desired, 90° angle fitting (BP-52) may also be used. Using a 7⁄16 wrench, tighten fittings 2-3 turns beyond finger tight. Keep in mind the direction you wish to have the hoses intersect the mount.
5. With a 5⁄16 drill bit, drill out the previously marked mounting holes and attach the mount using the 5⁄16 bolts, nuts, small washer and fender washers provided. Bolts should be tightened to 16-18 foot pounds. 1⁄2 wrenches or socket will be required for this operation.
6. Fill the By-Pass Filter element with the same motor oil being used in the vehicle. Lubricate the filter gasket with oil and spin filter onto mount. Tighten per instructions on the filter.

Oil Supply
1. Locate oil pressure sending unit (see diagram E). Remove unit and install “T” (BP-33) using thread sealant as noted in diagram C and tightening 2-3 turns beyond finger tight.
Note: See diagram G if oil pressure sending unit has a 1⁄4 N.P.T. thread.
Note: Special adapters may be needed to install “T” on some engines. Refer to the Oil Pressure Sending Unit Information Guide. Occasionally, additional fittings may be needed.
2. Reinstall sending unit in one opening of the “T” and a fitting adapter (BP-208) in the other. Use thread sealant and tighten as noted in D.1. Use 90° Street Elbow (BP-52) if necessary, keeping in mind the direction you wish the hose to intersect the fitting.
3. Measure the amount of hose (BP-206) you will need to run from the Oil Pressure Sending Unit “T” to the filter mount fitting labeled IN. Additional length will be required to accommodate engine movement during operation. Using a utility knife, squarely cut the hose to the proper length.
Note: The hose and fittings supplied with this kit have been matched to provide max- imum performance and life expectancy. Interchanging with other types or brands is not recommended and should be avoided. Should additional hose be required, it may be obtained from your AMSOIL Dealer by ordering part number BP-206.
4. Install hose fittings (BP-261) on both ends of the hose following the instructions noted in diagram F. Tools required are one 9⁄16 wrench and one 11⁄16 wrench or vise.
Note: Do not use any form of thread sealant anywhere on the BP-261 hose fittings.
5. Route and connect the hose assembly making sure the hose does not contact any hot or moving surfaces or sharp edges. Ensure a minimum of a 3⁄4 bend radius is maintained at all corners. Also, bends in hose should not begin at hose fittings. Using a 9⁄16 and 7⁄16 wrench, tighten hose fitting swivel nut to 130-150 inch pounds or from finger tight, rotate an additional 120° or 1⁄3 of a turn. See diagrams D and H for additional details.

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The Edge Advanced Suspension Instruction Sheet

This Kit must be installed with THE EDGE 4.5” HANGER KIT (part no.3-4000) or THE EDGE 6” FRONT SPRING KIT (part no.3-6000) or THE EDGE 8” FRONT SPRING KIT (part no.3-8000).
- Front Driveshaft for 8” Front Spring kit must be modified.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Jack up the front end of the truck and support the frame at the front frame rails with jack stands. NEVER WORK UNDER AN UNSUPPORTED VEHICLE. Remove front tires.
2. Remove the brake calipers and tie them up out of the way. DO NOT ALLOW CALIPERS TO HANG FROM THE BRAKE LINES! Supporting the front axle with two floor jacks, remove the front shocks and sway bar end links. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the drag link at the pitman arm. Using a tie rod puller, separate the tie rod from the pitman arm. Remove the bolt from the top end of the pan-rod bar, where it connects to the frame bracket. Remove the three bolts securing the pan-rod bar bracket to the frame and set the bracket aside.
3. Remove the bolts securing the front drive shaft to the axle yoke. Tape the bearing caps on the front u-joint and remove the driveshaft from the transfer case. Remove all four u-bolts from the front axel. Slowly lower the two floor jacks supporting the front axle to clear the front leaf springs. Loosen the four front leaf spring shackle bolts, DO NOT REMOVE THEM. While supporting the leaf spring, remove the front bolt followed by the rear bolt, separating the leaf spring from the shackle. Set the leaf spring aside and repeat this step on the opposite leaf spring.
4. Remove the nut securing the original pitman arm to the steering box shaft. A pitman arm puller must be used to remove the pitman arm from the steering shaft. Once off, replace the stock pitman arm with the drop pitman arm supplied in the box kit. If the splines on the pitman arm do not match, your truck is an early 1999 model and you will need box kit part number 3-1000 to replace this part number 3-1020. Align the master splines on the steering shaft, replace the original washer and nut, and torque the new unit in place at 200-225 ft-lbs.

Get pdf The Edge Advanced Suspension Instruction Sheet

Petrol Engine Twin Camshaft Setting/Locking Tool Set

Setting engine timing on all current Ford 16v, Twin Camshaft engines (Zetec/Duratec) requires the tools included in VS1152.V2 Set.
Additionally, replacement of the timing belt requires the crankshaft pulley to be removed and therefore Associated Tools VS1013 or VS4736 are needed, depending upon engine type.
CAMSHAFT SETTING PLATE - VS115/01
1. On all current Ford 16v. twin cam engines (Zetec/Duratec), VS115/01 Setting Plate is used to lock the camshafts in the correct timing position via a slot at the rear of the camshafts.
2. For timing belt replacement on these applications it is important to ensure that the crankshaft is at TDC (see VS115/02 and VS115/03), and that VS115/01 Setting Plate is in position on the camshafts. The tensioner can then be slackened/compressed and the timing belt removed.
3. VS115/01 Setting Plate is also used on the latest Duratec HE chain drive twin cams.
4. With the setting plate locking the camshafts in position, the cam sprockets can be loosened, using a holding tool to counter-hold the sprocket whilst releasing the centre bolt. Some camshafts provide a hexagon to locate a spanner to counter-hold the camshaft.
5. Using the appropriate Location Pin ensure the crankshaft is at TDC before fitting new belt in an anti-clockwise direction. The tensioner should be applied following the manufacturer’s procedure. Using a suitable Sprocket Holding Tool, counter-hold the camshaft sprockets whilst tightening the centre bolt.
6. Remove setting plate and TDC pin.
7. Rotate the engine a least two revolutions and return to TDC position inserting location pin. Re-check camshaft position by ensuring that VS115/01 Setting Plate can be easily inserted into its slots. If not, re-check tensioning procedure again.
NOTE: For Fiesta/Escort 1.6i/1.8i and Mondeo 1.6/1.8/2.0 (-98) 16v. engines, only VS115/01 Cam Setting Plate is used. A crank pin entry point is not provided.

CRANK TDC LOCATION PINS - VS115/02 & VS115/03
1. TDC Location Pins are used in conjunction with VS115/01 Cam Setting Plate to ensure correct timing position is established and maintained during engine timing applications on the following: VS115/02 - Fiesta/Fusion 1.25/1.4/1.6, Focus 1.4/1.6, Puma 1.4/1.6/1.7 16v, Mondeo 1.8/2.0 (chain) and Mazda 121 1.25 16v. VS115/03 - Focus 1.8/2.0 (98-02), Mondeo 1.6/1.8/2.0 , Cougar 2.0 16v.

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260-302 c.i.d. Small Block Ford Engines Performer and Performer RPM Intake Manifolds Instructions

Edelbrock Performer series intake manifolds are designed for engines operating in the idle to 5500 rpm range. Performer RPM series intake manifolds are designed for engines operating in the 1500-6500 rpm range. Match Performer or Performer RPM intake manifolds with recommended carburetors and additional equipment for even greater performance increases.

EGR SYSTEMS: Edelbrock EGR-equipped Performer manifolds are intended as a direct functionally identical replacement for their O.E.M. counterparts. All exhaust emissions or emissions related stock components are intended to be retained and functional. Non-EGR equipped manifolds will not accept stock EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) equipment. EGR systems are used on most 1972 and later model vehicles. Check local laws for requirements.

PREP AND TUNING FOR POWER:
NOTE: Local emission laws must be checked for legality of any carburetor or ignition changes.
Performer Series Intake Manifolds
1. The long equal length runners in the Performer manifold create a very strong signal to the carburetor. In some applications, the stock rods or jets may need changing for best overall performance. Refer to your carburetor owner’s manual for details.
2) Performer manifolds deliver excellent drivability and power utilizing stock distributor settings. Some applications may benefit from resetting the initial advance ±2° from the factory specification.
3) Aftermarket ignitions and more aggressive advance curves may be used with Performer packages.
4) Installation of aftermarket headers or camshafts may lean the carburetor calibration. Should this occur recalibrate with a richer jet.

Get pdf 260-302 c.i.d. Small Block Ford Engines Performer and Performer RPM Intake Manifolds Instructions

SF99 Servo Bore Repair System: Ford CD4E

1. Install the drill jig into the case by setting the jig into the servo. Retain the jig in the case with the servo’s snap-ring.
2. Drop the 9/16” guide into the jig. It doesn’t matter which one of the lands on the guide you use, as long as one of the lands is under the 3/8” Allen screw.
3. Ream out the bore using the 9/16” reamer, applying ample lubrication.* DO NOT REAM ABOVE 500 RPM.
4. Replace the 9/16” reamer guide with the 5/8” guide, and the 9/16” reamer with the 5/8” reamer.
5. Ream the bore out using the 5/8” reamer with ample lubrication.* Take care not to either push too hard on the reamer or turn the reamer faster than 500 RPM when reaming. Either one can overly enlarge the bore, causing a loose bushing.
6. Clean the case before proceeding to step number seven. Apply Loctite® (preferably green #680) or equivalent to the bushings and drive the bushings in by hitting the driver until the bushing bottoms. The CD4E kit uses the larger diameter installation tool without an id groove cut in the handle.
8. Insert the provided sizing pin into the bore, chamfer first. It may be necessary to start the pin in the bushing with a rubber mallet. Once the pin is inside the bushing, use a punch to drive the pin all the way through the bushing. Repeat as necessary.

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Ford Focus Gauge Faces Installation Instructions

REQUIRED TOOLS:
7mm Hex wrench, socket extensions, Torx T-8 driver, black permanent felt tipped marker.

1. Start up your car and let it get up to operating temperature. While it’s warming up, Remove the top three 7mm Hex screws from the top of the instrument cluster housing. Pop the housing straight out towards you.
2. Unplug the trunk release wiring harness (A, pictured below). Pull the rubber piece out from under the housing (B). Set the housing aside, and unscrew the four 7mm hex screws around the instrument cluster (C).
3. You might want to shut off the car by now, if you haven’t already. Before doing anything else you are going to have to mark the needle location. With the car at full operating temperature. Now mark exactly where the temp, tach, and fuel gauge needles are on the face. Pull out the instrument cluster. Disconnect the wiring harness by moving the black locking tab from right to left as pictured. This will disconnect the wiring harness from the cluster. Unfortunately, it also resets your trip odometer to 0. Take out the instrument cluster. Pull out the cluster out of the car and hold it above your head and say “Woohoo”. Now set the cluster down wherever you’re going to work on it and go get a refreshing drink, because I know you deserve it.
4. Now that you’re refreshed, hopefully not too refreshed, it’s time to start the disassembly of the cluster. Removing the black front of the instrument cluster case from the white back by releasing the four tabs, on top and bottom. Unscrew the three torx screws on the face of the instrument cluster (on the Duratec models there is an additional one above each small gauge). If you do not have a Torx T-8 driver, a small flat head driver should do fine. Pull the face of the gauges straight out of the white casing. The Duratec clusters will require the removal of the needles before the face and clear plastic framework can be removed (see step 6 for tips).
5. Please note that these gauges are Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive, much like computer hardware. Please take precautions to eliminate the chance of ESD damage. A precaution can be (but not limited to) using a grounding strap.
6. Now to the hard part of the install. To remove the needles (a couple of options) make sure you mark the location of the needles, and or take pics for reference, or use some masking tape on the bezel, making sure its straight to realign the needles. I used a regular fork. Just slide the tines of the fork on each side of the pivot point of the needle and carefully work the needle up and off the gauge. Let’s start with the temp gauge. When removing the needle, try not to rotate it in anyway, this may help with needle realignment. Pop the needle off and set it down.

Use the ELECTRONIC ODOMETER to reset the needles.
Gas Gauge Needle - Fill the tank and push the needle back on at the FULL position Temp Gauge Needle - Run the car for 20 minutes which will get the car to normal operating temperature and push the needle on in the middle of the range. Speedo Gauge Needle - Do the ODO digital speedometer readout trick and get the car up to an even speed on an empty highway, push the needle onto the speed as read by the ODO and your good to go. Tachometer Needle (if equipped) - Do the ODO tack readout trick and push the needle onto the spindle at the appropriate RPM number.

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351 C.I.D. Ford Cleveland V8 Non-EGR Engines Performer 351-4v Installation Instructions

Performer series intake manifolds are compatible with aftermarket camshafts and headers designed to operate in the idle-5500 RPM range. Edelbrock offers a dyno-matched, street proven camshaft; Performer-Plus #2172. Header primary tube diameter should be 1-5/8” depending on your specific engine combination.

PREP AND TUNING FOR POWER:
NOTE: Local emission laws must be checked for legality of any carburetor or ignition changes.
1. Aftermarket ignition advance kits may be used with Performer series manifolds.
2. Use modified or high performance cylinder heads such as our Performer RPM series.
3. Installation of aftermarket headers, camshafts or both with an Edelbrock Performer series manifold may require additional tuning.

NOTE: To ensure maximum performance and a proper seal, Edelbrock gaskets which are specifically designed and manufactured for use with Edelbrock parts must be used.
GASKETS: Do not use competition style intake gaskets for this street manifold. Due to material deterioration over time, internal leakage of vacuum and oil may occur.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Use only recommended intake gaskets set when installing this intake manifold.
2. Fully clean the cylinder head intake flanges and the engine block end seal surfaces.
3. Apply Edelbrock Gasgacinch sealant P/N 9300 to both cylinder head flanges and to the cylinder head side of the gaskets, allow to air dry, and attach the intake gaskets.
4. Do not use cork or rubber end seals. Use RTV silicone sealer instead. Apply a ¼” high bead across each block end seal surface, overlapping the intake gasket at the four corners. This method will eliminate end seal slippage.
5. Install the intake manifold and hold-down bolts. Torque all of the manifold bolts in two steps by the sequence shown in Figure 1 to 18-20 ft/lbs.

Get pdf 351 C.I.D. Ford Cleveland V8 Non-EGR Engines Performer 351-4v Installation Instructions

2005-2007 Ford Mustang GT, Coupe & Convertible Pro-Kit Installation Instructions

Read All Instructions Before Beginning Installation
• Installation of a PRO-KIT Spring set should only be performed by a qualified mechanic experienced in the installation and removal of suspension springs.
• Use of a hoist is highly recommended and will substantially reduce installation time.
• Never work on or under a vehicle unless it is properly supported by safety stands and wheels are blocked.
• PRO-KIT Springs are marked with 01 and 02 (located at the end of the part number) designating front and rear spring respectively.
• PRO-KIT Springs should be installed with the Eibach Logo right side up. All original stock spring isolators, dampers and tubing should be retained from the stock springs and reused
• After installation, it is always important to inspect and adjust the following if necessary:
- Wheel alignment such as camber, caster & toe.
- Tire and/or wheel fender clearance.
- Brake line clearance and attachments.
- Brake anti-locking and anti-skid system sensors.
• Tire Rotation: To increase the life of your tires, it is recommended to rotate your tires every 3,000 miles.
Alignment:
After installation, it will be necessary to perform a full vehicle alignment using factory specifications. Eibach offers the following alignment kits for this vehicle.

Bumpstop Instructions:
1. Remove and discard the OE front bumpstop dust boot and metal cup assembly when installing front springs.
2. Snap new Eibach boots onto OE bumpstops and reinstall.

Get pdf 2005-2007 Ford Mustang GT, Coupe & Convertible Pro-Kit Installation Instructions

99-2004 Ford F250/350 Super Duty 4wd Front Adjustable Track Bar Installation Instructions

Certain Zone Suspension Products are intended to improve off-road performance. Modifying your vehicle for off-road use may result in the vehicle handling differently than a factory equipped vehicle. Extreme care must be used to prevent loss of control or vehicle rollover. Failure to drive your modified vehicle safely may result in serious injury or death. Zone Offroad Products does not recommend the combined use of suspension lifts, body lifts, or other lifting devices. You should never operate your modified vehicle under the influence of alcohol or drugs. Always drive your modified vehicle at reduced speeds to ensure your ability to control your vehicle under all driving conditions. Always wear your seat belt.

Pre-inStallation noteS
1. Special literature required: OE Service Manual for model/year of vehicle. Refer to manual for proper disassembly/reassembly procedures of OE and related components.
2. Adhere to recommendations when replacement fasteners, retainers and keepers are called out in the OE manual.
3. Larger rim and tire combinations may increase leverage on suspension, steering, and related components. When selecting combinations larger than OE, consider the additional stress you could be inducing on the OE and related components.
4. Post suspension system vehicles may experience drive line vibrations. Angles may require tuning, slider on shaft may require re-
placement, shafts may need to be lengthened or trued, and U-joints may need to be replaced.
5. Secure and properly block vehicle prior to installation of Zone Offroad Products. Always wear safety glasses when using power tools.
6. If installation is to be performed without a hoist, Zone Offroad Products recommends rear alterations first.
7. Due to payload options and initial ride height variances, the amount of lift is a base figure. Final ride height dimensions may vary in accordance to original vehicle attitude. Always measure the attitude prior to beginning installation.

Get pdf 99-2004 Ford F250/350 Super Duty 4wd Front Adjustable Track Bar Installation Instructions

GaugeMaster Model HH Single Track Controller

The controller should be regularly examined for potential hazards such as damage to the casing, cable or plug. In the event of any damage, the unit should not be used until the damage has been repaired and the unit should not be opened as it has no consumer repairable components. A repair service is available at the address shown below. The model ‘HH’ controller is designed to be used as an independent controller with a transformer or in conjunction with the GAUGEMASTER model ‘100M’. When the unit is powered from the accessory outlet on an existing controller, care should be taken to ensure correct track isolation of the new section. Gaugemaster double wound transformers Types ‘T1 or M1’ are recommended.

INSTALLATION:
Connect the 4-core cable as follows:
RED/BLACK to TRACK – Output 0 – 12v DC @ 1 Ampere maximum
Reverse track connections for direction as necessary.
BLUE/YELLOW to Supply – Input 14 – 18v AC @ 16VA maximum.
For convenience on the layout the model ‘W’ controller may be fitted with a plug (GM75) for use with a Gaugemaster 100M controller.

The Pin layout for the GM75 Din plug is shown below, and it is recommended that this configuration is also used when wiring in the GM75 Din plug and socket but remember the socket will be a mirror image. One each 6-way DIN plug and socket are available from GAUGEMASTER as order code GM75.

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Instructions for Installing Thin Wall (14-mm) Spark Plug Thread Repair Inserts

Full-Torque® thread repair inserts are made of hard anodized aluminum for spark plug holes in aluminum cylinder heads and steel, for cast iron heads. FFT-Style Deep Reach inserts match the Ford Triton 4.6, 5.4 and 6.8 liter engines. Inserts for aluminum heads are made of hard anodized aluminum for optimum heat transfer.

When installing just one insert, such as in an in-frame repair, use the matching style Deep Reach Insert. If the heads are off the vehicle, you should replace them all with the Fully Threaded Style to upgrade the head to Fully Threaded spark plugs. This prevents future failures of the other plug holes and warranty claims.

PLEASE NOTE:
The same installation tools work for the fully threaded or Short Style inserts on all 14mm spark plug holes in Cast Iron and Aluminum heads. Steel or stainless steel inserts or coils should not*be used in aluminum heads, because of differences in heat transfer.

Get pdf Instructions for Installing Thin Wall (14-mm) Spark Plug Thread Repair Inserts

4.6 4V Cam Installation and Timino Instructions

PROCEDURE:
• Install camshafts, matching each cam to present cams in engine.
NOTE: Most cams are marked in positioning slot at rear of cam s haït
Example: LE=Lefl ExhausL Follow Ford procedure for Lorque
Pattern and values on cam caps-diagram 10,11
* Ensure key ways are down - use positioning tool - diagram 8.S
• Install secondary cam gears & chains — refer to service manual for timing mark locations {pull tensioner pins).
NOTE: Install all secondary gears without the keys If keys are Integral part of gear, remove by machining. - diagram 7

* Install primary chains and gears and tensioners (pull pins)-diagram 12.13
* Lock camshafts and torque cam bolts to 95ft/lbs.
Check lifter preload Using a collapsed lifter check preloaa when cam is on base circle. Zero dial indicator on lifter side of rocker and using rocker installation tool preload valve spring to determined preload valve spring to deformi nod preload. Use shims after lifters to achieve desired preload. (You can use Vaseline on bottom of lifters to hold shims during installation)
Set motor on TDC using Ford tool and remove.
Remove camshaft positioners and lock,
Install timing wheel on end of crankshaft with pointer and set at TDC - diagram 5
Rotate engine by way of flywheel 90 degrees ulock wise.
Install positive stop tool in #1 cylinder.
Rotate engine clockwise until you reach the stop, and record the number displayed on timing wheel.
Rotate engine counter clockwise until you reach positive stop and record the number again…

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ATI SuperCase/Bellhousing Installation Instructions

The ATI SuperCase is engineered to accept GM Powerglide spec replacement parts. The ATI Bellhousing may be installed to the case before or after the transmission assembly. Standard or Powerglide assembly procedures should be followed unless noted otherwise. Case Venting – It is important to properly vent the transmission to the atmosphere. ATI recommends using a length of semi-clear, high temp, Teflon based tubing (1/4” OD, 1/8” ID) with a Push-In fitting (1/4” tube, 1/8” NPT). The tubing should be routed to some type of catch bottle to prevent any fluid from reaching the track surface. The vent hole is near the top of the case above the servo bore.

Tailhousing Venting – The tailhousing also needs to be vented. If you are using a stock oem governor support the venting is done through the case. If you are using an aftermarket governor support (with bearing) the vent hole becomes blocked. The solution is to either drill a 1⁄4” hole in the support into the cavity area between the 1 o’clock and 2 o’clock positions or provide a or separate vent for the tailhousing. ATI’s tailhousings and other makers provide a threaded hole for an additional vent tube. “Shorty” extensions do not require venting.

Assembly Notes
• The reverse gear clutch pack needs to be installed prior to inserting the steel safety liner into position.
• The 2 pressure test ports need to be plugged (plugs included). One is located in front of the servo bore. The other is near the rear of the right side.
• Pipe thread holes need to be sealed with Teflon pipe sealant or equivalent.
• Straight thread holes need a light coat of “anti-seize” lubricant.
• The 6 – 7/16” bolts (included with the bellhousing) that attach the bellhousing are to be torqued to 40 ft/lb and use red “262” Loctite.

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2004-08 Ford F150 2 & 4WD Adjustable Upper Strut Front Lift/Leveling Kit Installation

Step 1: Measure current front ride height. Take a measurement from the bottom of the wheel/rim to the lip of the fender on each side of the vehicle. Write down measurements to help in determining ride height after new kit is installed.
Step 2: Position vehicle on a flat surface or automotive lift. Suspend front wheels, lifting by the frame with a floor jack or lift jack. Secure using jack stands and wheel chocks. Be sure engine is turned OFF and vehicle is in PARK. Remove tire/wheel assembly on ONE side of vehicle.
Step 3: Support Spindle to protect ABS system and brake lines! LOOSEN, but don’t completely remove upper ball joint nut, outer tie rod nut and sway bar link nut at the lower control arm.
Step 4: Break Outer tie rod and ball joint from their tapers using tools specific to this procedure. CAREFULLY, while supporting the spindle assembly, completely remove upper ball joint nut & tie rod nut, leaving the loosened sway bar link nut in place.
Step 5: Remove strut assembly from the vehicle. Remove LOWER strut bolt first, followed by the three (3) upper strut nuts. CAUTION! BE EXTREMELY CAREFULL TO SUPPORT STRUT ASSEMBLY WHEN REMOVING UPPER STRUT NUTS! The Strut/Spring assembly is heavy and can cause injury to technician or damage to other components if released too quickly!
Step 6: Apply 50% of the INCLUDED Synthetic Grease to the TOP of the THREADED INNER ADJUSTMENT SCREW, as illustrated.

Get pdf 2004-08 Ford F150 2 & 4WD Adjustable Upper Strut Front Lift/Leveling Kit Installation

Fat Bar Instuctions

Congratulations on purchasing the best “working” 4-bar kit on market. The FATBAR has many features that allow it to out-perform the competition. You will notice them as we go along.
1. Every step of this installation is based on the rear axle centerline (C.I.). So locating the C.I. is very important. Set the chassis level and project the C.I. from the axle housing onto the frame with a level, or plumb-bob. If the bed is handy, set it on the frame and roll a tire under to check the C.I. – Sometimes we want to move the C.I. from its stock location to center the wheel in the fender. Double check your chosen C.I. by measuring to several points on the chassis cab mounts, bed mounts and front C.I. to make sure it’s even on both sides (square).
2. Remove all of the original suspension, and mounts from the chassis. None of the rivet holes will be re-used. We suggest that you put grade #8 bolts in these holes and then weld the crossmembers back in. NOTE: 48 – 60 Ford’s & 55 – 59 Chevy’s may want to re-position the rear crossmember to make room for a custom tank. It’s easier to do it right now.
3. Carefully measure the C.I. 36” forward on the chassis double check this. Mark the outside of the frame with a level line up and down.
4. Fit the front brackets to the chassis wit the front edge of the bracket on the line at 36”. 5. At this time, consider boxing and ‘c’ sectioning the rear frame. This is a must on air ride trucks, and recommended for those going to sit low. – we have rear boxing and c-sections available.
6. Assemble 4 of the bars to a length of 30 ž”. This is a measurement from the center of one eye, to the center of the other. Set all 4 bars to the same length of 30 ž”.

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C-10, C-11 & C-12 Series Racks Assembly Instructions

Connect front and rear sections
Each side rail side contains a front and rear section preassembled for easier assembly. The front and rear sections are banded together. Remove the banding and separate the front and rear rail sections from packaging. On a flat surface, place boards under the front and rear rail sections as shown so that the rear ‘Y’ bracket does not touch the ground. This will make aligning the front and rear rail sections faster. On the front section (the end with the straight round tube), slide the 5” bracket backwards until the two back holes on the 5” bracket line up with the two holes on the end of the lower rectangle tube. Insert the rear rail section into the 5” bracket and line up with two remaining holes.

Connect front and rear sections
Note the orientation of the other carriage bolts on rail assemblies.
For the top round tube, use (2) 3/8”-16 x 1-3/4” carriage bolts, (2) 3/8” split lock washers and (2) 3/8”- 16 nuts, install hardware finger tight. Repeat for other side rail.
For the lower rectangle tube, use (4) 3/8”-16 x 3” carriage bolts, (4) 3/8” split lock washers and (4) 3/8”- 16 nuts, install hardware finger tight. Repeat for other side rail.

Install front Crossbar.
The front crossbar is the smooth rectangle tube with the round bolt holes in each end. Secure the front cross bar to the ‘H’ brackets mounted on the side of the front rail sections using (4) 3/8”-16 x 2” carriage bolts, (4) 3/8” split lock washers and (4) 3/8”-16 nuts. Finger tighten only.

Get pdf C-10, C-11 & C-12 Series Racks Assembly Instructions

Transmission and Converter Installation Instructions

BEFORE INSTALLATION OF CONVERTER TO TRANSMISSION
1. If transmission is not fresh, drain all old oil, clean the pan and replace the filter or clean screen.
2. Thoroughly flush oil cooler lines and cooler with clean varsol or other suitable solvent. Repeat process alternately in both lines until clean then blow air through the system. If any restriction is noticed in the lines or cooler, they must be replaced. If there are any twists or kinks in the lines restricting oil flow, the lines must be replaced.
3. The cooler in the radiator must be clean and in good condition. If you had previous transmission failure which deposited metal particles in the lines and cooler - replace it. Your local radiator shop can install it. It could be the best investment you make. ATI highly recommends the addition of a heavy duty external oil cooler. This will greatly increase the life of your transmission. When installing, route oil flow from the transmission through the radiator, then through the air cooler and back to the transmission. The line closest to the lower radiator hose is the return line to the transmission and should route through the air cooler. Use only steel line. The use of braided line is prohibited unless it is Teflon lined. Never use steel braided line for cooler lines unless it is Teflon lined! A blockage in steel braided line may impair fluid flow while not being externally visible. This condition may lead to inconsistent performance or transmission failure.
4. If an external oil cooler is not used, a jumper line must be connected to the “in and out” lines of the transmission. ATI transmissions are NOT guaranteed against overheating.
5. Check the bolt size (supplied with your converter) used in securing the converter to the flywheel for proper fit. If necessary, drill the flywheel to the proper size. Drill holes in the flexplate .010″ bigger than the bolts being used!
6. Be certain that the mating surface of the engine block and the transmission case are clean and free from nicks, paint, dirt, etc. Use a file to clean and smooth the surface.
7. Inspect the mating surface of the engine block for dowel pins. The dowel pins must be firmly in the block, in good condition, and long enough to protrude into the transmission bell housing at least 3/16 of the full diameter not counting the chamfer.
8. Before final installation, put the converter up to the flywheel and make sure the mounting pads fit flush to the flywheel and are in correct alignment to the bolt pattern. With the pads flush to the flywheel, the converter pilot should be a good fit into the crankshaft with approximately 1/8″ minimum extending into the crank below the chamfer.
9. Inspect the condition of the old converter hub for wear, scoring or other damage. Abnormal wear may indicate that the bushing that supports the hub is defective and should be replaced before installation of the new converter. The front pump seal and bushing should be replaced by a competent transmission shop.
10. On all Ford and Chrysler transmissions, the factory bronze front pump bushing must be replaced with a babbitt-type bushing. Bushings are available from most transmission shops or directly from ATI. All ATI transmissions come standard with this bushing installed and are packaged with the ATI converter.

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MN-126 Air Lift Instructions

If your vehicle is equipped with vibration dampers between the turns of the coil, it is necessary that these be removed before installing the air springs.Their function will be replaced by the air spring. Some mid-size GM vehicles have a solid cup located on the lower spring seat which will not allow the air line to exit the coil. It is necessary to removed this cup before installing the air spring.

I. Preparing the Vehicle
Before beginning the installation, check the clearance from coil spring to exhaust. It is common in your application for the exhaust to be very close to the coil. If there is not more than 2″, you will need to move the pipe for additional clearance.
1. Jack up rear of vehicle or raise on hoist.Support frame with safety stands. Lower axle or raise body of vehicle until suspension is fully extended.
2. Install heat shield kits. Separate instructions are included in heat shield package.
3. Remove plastic cap from barbed stem on end of cylinder.Exhaust the air from the cylinder by rolling it up toward barbed stem. Replace cap on stem to hold flat shape.
4. If necessary, additional clearance between the coil turns may be obtained by removing the shock absorbers from the lower shock mountings and lowering the suspension an additional one to two inches. CAUTION: Observe tension on brake air line. Do not strain.

II. Installing the Air Cylinder
1. For installing the air cylinder in 1991 and up Crown Victorias, Mercury Grand Marquis, Suburbans, 4DR-4WD Tahoes–Yukons, Trailblazers, Envoys, Bravadas, Avalanches, and Escalades use step 1b.
a. Insert flattened air cylinder into coil spring through lowest
opening with stem at the bottom (Figure 1a).
b. IMPORTANT: For Suburbans, Tahoes, Yukons, Trailblazers,
Envoys, Bravadas, Avalanches,and Escalades it will be necessary to trim the rubber isolator at the top for the valve stem clearance (Figure 2). Insert flattened air cylinder into coil spring through lowest opening with the stem at the top.
2. Push the cylinder up within the coil by hand or with a blunt instrument such as a spoon-type tire iron.
3. When the cylinder is completely within the coil, remove the cap and allow the cylinder to assume its “as molded” shape.

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Chevy/GMC 2WD, 4WD Body Lift Installation Instructions

This body lift kit should only be installed on vehicles in good working condition. Before installation, the vehicle should be thoroughly inspected for evidence of corrosion or deformation of the sheet metal around the factory body mounts. This body lift kit should not be installed on any vehicle that is suspected to have been in a collision or misused. Off-road use of your vehicle with this body lift installed may increase the stress applied to the factory body mounts. We do not recommend that any vehicle with a body lift installed be involved in any extreme off-road maneuvers such as jumping. Failure to observe this warning may result in serious personal injury and/or severe damage to your vehicle.

1. Read the instructions completely and carefully before you begin. Check kit for proper contents (refer to parts list and picture diagrams).
2. Park the vehicle on a clean, dry, flat (level) surface. Block the tires so the vehicle cannot roll in either direction. Automatic transmissions should be placed in park. Manual transmissions should be placed in neutral.
3. Remove both battery cables. Be sure to remove the negative cable first, then the positive cable.
4. Remove the front bumper. Check for any wires that may be connected to the bumper and disconnect as necessary. Make a diagram to ensure proper reconnection when the front bumper is reinstalled.
5. Drain the radiator into a clean container. Be sure that the vehicle has cooled sufficiently to allow the cooling system to be safely opened. The coolant will be reused after the lifting operation is complete. Remove the clamp that mounts the upper radiator hose to the radiator. Remove the hose from the radiator. Remove the clamp that mounts the lower radiator hose to the radiator. Remove the lower hose from the radiator. If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, disconnect the 2 transmission cooling lines from the radiator. Cap the ends of the lines to prevent loss of transmission fluid while completing the installation. Remove the bolts that mount the upper radiator cover to the core support. Remove the radiator and the fan shroud from the vehicle.

Get pdf Chevy/GMC 2WD, 4WD Body Lift Installation Instructions

1988-1998 Chevy Silverado & GMC Sierra Hog Bar Installation Instructions

Pre-installation Preparation
1. Verify kit contents.
2. Remove protective wrapping from hog bar
and place on a non-abrasive surface.
3. Remove the brackets and hardware from
the box.
B. Remove Tow Hooks
1. Locate the Bolts that hold the tow hooks in
place we will be using these bolts for the
brackets.
2. Remove the bolts that hold the tow hooks
in place by using an 18mm socket these
bolts are threaded into a plate on the inside
of the frame.
C. Install Brackets
1. Begin to mount the brackets in place where
you removed the tow hooks shown in (fig.
C1) using the bolts you removed in step
two.
IMPORTANT: Make sure you leave
these bolts loose.
D. Install Hog Bar
1. You will need to remove your license plate
so you can attach it to the front of your hog
bar.
2. Place hog bar up to the brackets and threadthe bolt with washer into the hog bar.
3. Tighten the bolts that mount from the bracket to the hog bar for both sides.
4. Center the Hog Bar on the truck.
5. Tighten the bolts that hold the bracket to the frame of the truck for both sides.
6. Make sure all bolts are tight & license plate is secured to the front of the hog bar.

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03-04 Chevy Duramax / 01-04 GMC Duramax 6.6L Installation Instructions

Your Airaid Intake System was carefully inspected and packaged. Check that no parts are missing, or were damaged during shipping. If any parts are missing, contact Airaid. The air filter element is protected from direct exposure to water and debris; care should be taken not to drive through deep water. WATER INGESTION IS THE DRIVERS RESPONSIBILTY! The air filter is reusable and should be cleaned using the Airaid Filter Tune-Up Kit periodically.

Remove Factory Intake Assembly
a) Carefully disconnect and remove the mass air sensor using the supplied T-20 security bit (save for later use). See Fig#1
b) Remove the filter minder and rubber grommet and save for re-installation. See Fig#2
c) Loosen the two hose clamps on either end of the factory intake tube and remove the tube from the vehicle.
d) Remove the factory air box: the air box “pops” out of place, simply pry it out of position and remove.
e) Using a 10mm socket, remove the 5 bolts on the base of the factory air box and remove metal base from vehicle.

Assemble the Airaid Intake System
a) Assemble the Airaid Cold Air Dam using the 6 small screws, washers, and nuts provided. See Fig#4
b) Install the black plastic filter adapter, secure using the three ¼-20 bolts provided. See Fig#5
c) Slide the Airaid Premium Filter over the plastic adapter and tighten hose clamp. See Fig#5
d) Press weather strip into place along the top rim of the air dam. See Fig#4 (Hint: start in the corner for easy installation).

Get pdf 03-04 Chevy Duramax / 01-04 GMC Duramax 6.6L Installation Instructions

99-05 Chevy/GMC K1500 Dual Shock Kit Installation Instructions

This kit should only be installed on a vehicle that is in good working condition. Before you install the kit, thor- oughly inspect the vehicle for corrosion or deformation of the sheet metal around the factory body mounts. If the vehicle is suspected to have been in a collision or misused, do not install this kit. Off-road use of your vehicle with this kit installed may increase the stress applied to the factory body mounts. We do not recom- mend that any vehicle with a body lift kit installed be involved in any extreme off-road maneuvers such as jumping. Failure to observe this warning may result in serious personal injury and/or severe damage to your vehicle.

Before Starting Installation
1. Carefully read all warnings and instructions completely before beginning.
2. Verify all parts have been received in this kit by checking the parts list at the end of this document
3. Only install this kit on the vehicle for which it is specified. If anytime during the installation you encounter something different from what is outlined in the instructions, call technical support at (928) 636-3175
4. Special tools needed:
a. 1” Drill Bit or Hole Saw
b. Welder or access to a professional welding shop
c. Drill Motor.
NOTE
Kit parts are prefaced by the word kit and appear in bold print.
NOTE
This kit is not intended to replace the existing single shock. It is meant to compliment the existing suspension system’s handling characteristics. No existing parts on the vehicle should be removed or discarded during installation of this system.

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GMC Sierra/ Chevy Silverado, GMC/Chevy HD Cut Out Flare Installation Instructions

NOTE: Bushwacker only approves installing the flares according to these written instructions with the hardware provided.
WARNING: Failure to install according to these instructions will invalidate the warranty. This includes, but is not limited to using alternative installation methods, hardware, or materials. DO NOT USE: Loctite, SuperGlue, or similar products on the hardware or the flares.

Step 1: Painting (Optional)
It is recommended that painting be done prior to installation.
(A) Sand (optional) before application of paint.
(B) Clean outer surface with a good grade degreaser. DO NOT USE LACQUER THINNER OR ENAMEL REDUCER AS A DEGREASER. Wipe outer surface thoroughly with a tack rag prior to painting.
(C) Paint flares using a high quality lacquer, enamel, or polyurethane automotive paint. Application of a primer coat is optional.
(D) If painting edge trim (not recommended), use a flex additive.
Step 2: Preparing the Work Area (Front and Rear)
(A) Remove factory fender trim and mud flaps (when installed).
Step 3: Edge Trim Installation (See Illustration #1)
(A) Peel two to three inches of red vinyl backing away from edge trim tape. Applying the adhesive side of the edge trim to the inner side of the flare, affix the edge trim to the top edge of the flare (the portion that comes in contact with the side of the vehicle).
(B) Press edge trim into place along top edge of the flare in one-foot increments, pulling red vinyl backing free as you continue to work your way around the top edge of the flare.

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