The SHUBB Fifth String Capo
We wrapped those little wires around the ends of the bar to make sure that the sliding part wouldn’t in ad ver tent ly come off prior to installation. It’svery tricky to get back on properly. There’s a little spring in there: one end of the spring holds the lever-arm above the string, and the other presses against the 45° angle of the bar—this is what controls the sliding action of the capo. If the spring is not seated properly, the sliding part will just fall freely on the bar… you don’t want that.
If it has come off the bar, you’ll need some sort of very small tool to help you flip the prong end of that spring back onto the angled part of the bar. My favorite is a #11 Exact-o blade. If you can’t do it, don’t feel too bad; it’s kind of tricky. Just send it to us and we’ll put it back together for you.
First, I’ll hold the capo bar in position at the edge of the fingerboard with its finger lowered, to simulate the action of the mounted capo: (fig. 1)
Because the edges of banjo necks are rounded, and not all the same, it’s a good idea to get a clear idea of how high to mount the bar at the edge of the fin gerboard. Generally it works out to about 1/16″ lower than the surface, but it pays to check to make sure. The idea is to have the bottom surface of the lever parallel to the surface of the fingerboard as the string is held against the fret. Next, I’ll figure out the lateral position. (fig 2) I want to make sure that the bar is close enough to the fifth fret so that the lever will be able to work easily at the sixth fret, which is the lowest fret position in which it will be used.
Get pdf The SHUBB Fifth String Capo
