Auto Manual Resource: July 2009

Brake Warning System Installation Instructions

Reference the appropriate Ford Shop Manual as needed and use proper shop practices to protect personnel and vehicle.
WARNING LIGHT
1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Locate the OEM GRAY, 6-pin connector above and forward of the park brake pedal. Plug BROWN, 6-pin connector from BWS501D-A into OEM connector. Ensure that the connector is fully seated. An additional RED blunt-cut wire is available on the “ignition-hot” power circuit of the BWS501D-A harness for factory use. This circuit is NOT fused by the BWS501D-A harness. Any circuits attached to this wire must be fused separately.
3. Drill a 5/8” hole on the right side of the steering column in the dash lower trim panel approximately 2 inches below the upper right hand retaining clip. Install light into hole and connect to the WHITE 2-pin connector of the BWS501D-A harness.
4. Finish routing of harness and retain as needed to protect harness.
HYDRAULIC ADAPTER / PRESSURE SWITCH
5. Remove (3) bolts retaining radiator fill/overflow bottle to fender for easier installation. Do not disconnect the coolant hoses.
6. Remove air inlet hose from air filter box and reposition hose for easier installation.
7. OPTIONAL: To ease installation, disconnect the upper power steering pressure tube located in front of the bracket next to the brake fluid reservoir (see Photo 2). Use a catch basin or shop rags to prevent spills. Do not leave the tubes/fittings open or unprotected.
8. Disconnect the lower power steering pressure tube located in front of the bracket next to the brake fluid reservoir (see Photo 2. Do not disconnect the power steering hose in the middle position). Do not leave the tubes/fittings open or unprotected…

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1999+newer Ford F-53 chassis Rear Install Instructions

1. Place the coach on a level concrete surface. Jack the coach up so that the rear tires are just off the ground. Make sure to put jack stands on each side of the frame for safety.
2. Remove the rear shackle hanger bolt that fastens the leaf spring hanger to the shackle. Keep this bolt and nut as it will be reused. If the coach has storage compartments that are close to shackle assembly, it may be required to use a hole saw and cut a hole in the compartment to get the bolt out. If this is required, just cut a piece of tin and pop rivets to cover the hole. Use some silicone to seal the hole to prevent leaks.
3. Remove the six bolts that hold on the shackle hanger in place. Keep these bolts and nuts as they will be reused.
4. Remove the front fuel tank strap. This will not be reused.
5. This step will take at least two people. Locate the upper framework. The ears that are welded on the framework go towards the front of the coach. Lift the framework up into position and fasten the upper framework to the frame with the bolts that held the shackle hangers in place. The holes in the upper framework will match up to the holes in the frame. Locate the bolts that you took out in step 3 and tighten all the bolts.
6. Next locate the air bags. Insert the fitting and tighten. Slide the bag up in the framework and fasten in place using the ½” and ¾” lock washers and nuts.
7. Locate the lower swing arm. Slide the swing arm up in place using the 7/8×5” bolts and lock nuts. You may want to get a long slide clamp or a strap to help hold up the swing arm once you get the 7/8” bolt in place. Use the ¾” nuts and lock washers to fasten the bottom of the air bag to the swing arm. Next, locate the bolt that originally held the leaf spring shackle to the shackle hanger. Use this bolt to fasten the shackle to the swing arm.
8. Locate the air line and “T” fitting and connect the 2 bags together. If you are doing a manual fill, locate where you want to mount the Schrader valve. Mount the valve and run an air line from the valve to the “T”. If you are doing the height control valve, use the supplied brackets to mount the valve on the driver’s side of the air ride assembly.
9. Inflate the bags so that the lower swing arm is level with the ground. Depending on how heavy your coach is, it may be up to 80-100 psi.
10. Go back and recheck all the bolts for tightness. It is recommended to check the bolts for tightness at regular service intervals.
11. If you are running the system as a manual fill, mount the Schrader valve in a convenient location under the hood. Run an airline between the Schrader valve and the air bag making sure to keep the line away from the exhaust and sharp objects. Use some zip ties to fasten the air line away from any sharp components and anything that gets hot. If you are using in cab controls, use the instructions provided with the kit to plumb up the system.
12. Inflate each bag. When inflating, alternate inflating the right bag to the left bag until you get the coach to the measurement you recorded in step 1. If you don’t have this measurement, a good starting point is to inflate the air bag to 7”.

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Ford Diesel Powerstroke Superduty Installation Instructions

Installation instructions:
1) disconnect negative battery cables from both batteries and secure so they can’t touch battery posts.
2) remove positive cable from driver’s side battery.
3) unsnap battery cover from drivers’ side. This is a real pain, sticking a screwdriver in the slot helps.
4) remove battery. Save the battery hold down bolt and block. this will be reused on the ump bracket.
5) disconnect the intake air temp sensor from the rear of the stock air box located on the back of the airbox by the brake master cylinder, remove the sensor and save, this will be reused in the ump superfilter.
6) disconnect the air intake hose from the air box and remove air filter lid. Pull out the filter Gauge and save to be reused.
7) remove the four bolts inside the battery box……And lift out the entire plastic battery/air box assembly.
8) unlatch quick release clamp on the ump superfilter And set filter housing aside for now.
9) install the ump battery tray in the stock location using the ford bolts in the fender holes And the supplied countersunk allen bolts in the battery tray.
10) install the battery using the stock hold down bolt removed earlier. The battery cables can now be reconnected, grounds first then positives. If the vehicle has any accessory Cables to the positive side they shouldbe re-routed now to run under the snorkel of the New filter canister. This will make filter maintenance much easier when it is time for Service. Make sure the cover is installed on the positive cable. The snorkel on the ump superfilter comes very close to this when sliding it in.
11) slide the provided rubber bellows over the intake snorkel about halfway. This will seal The air intake to the core support after installation.

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Turbo removal Install, Removal and Exhaust Back Pressure Valve Removal

Turbocharger: REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Turbocharger (Removal)
1. Open the hood.
2. Remove the engine cover.
3. Disconnect the charge air cooler inlet and outlet pipes.
4. Label and disconnect the intake air heater element electrical leads, intake air temperature (IAT) sensor electrical connector, manifold absolute temperature (MAP) sensor electrical connector and the pressure hoses.
5. Loosen the clamps. Remove the compressor manifold.
6. Remove and discard the compressor manifold O-ring seal.
7. Disconnect the exhaust outlet pipe.
- Loosen the Marmon clamp.
- Disconnect the exhaust outlet pipe.
8. Disconnect the exhaust back pressure valve. Vehicle with exhaust back pressure system only)
- Slide the retaining clip away from the exhaust back pressure Valve actuator lever.
- Detach the exhaust back pressure valve actuator rod.
9. Label and disconnect the waste gate solenoid vacuum hose and the pressure hose. Loosen the clamps. Remove the air inlet tube.
10. NOTE: The Marmon clamp cannot be removed with the turbocharger installed. Loosen the Marmon clamp.
11. Remove the turbocharger.
- Remove the bolts.
- Remove the turbocharger.
12. Remove and discard the O-ring seals.

Turbocharger (Installation)
1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
* The exhaust inlet Marmon clamp must be positioned on the exhaust inlet pipe before installing the turbocharger.
This is a write up I did for another member with a turbo pedestal oil leak, disregard the parts about pedestal removal if you are only removing the turbo.
Please excuse me if I sound a little too detailed, as far as I know, You could be a master mechanic or engineer but I will assume you are a Shade tree mechanic like me.
If you do not have a topside creeper, I would suggest you have some type of padding or heavy blanket to place on top of the engine to lie on. I used an old 2” foam rubber mattress pad folded in half to lay across the top of the front of the motor. It took me approx. 7 hours to do the removal and installation (not counting any breaks) but I also gutted the EBV valve and sealed up the EBV actuator in the pedestal which added about 2 hours. It’s mostly a one man job but there are a few times an extra set of hands really helps.

Make sure you have the following:
• Metric socket set and combination wrenches.
• A torque wrench that will measure 18 lb/ft
• A torque wrench that will measure 71 in/lbs. (not absolutely Necessary but that’s what the clamps on the intercooler boots call for)
• Two sets of o-rings to attach the turbo to the pedestal and for the
• pedestal to the engine.
• 2-F4TZ-6N653-A and 2-F4TZ-6N653-B
• A spray can of good penetrating oil (I use “Liquid Wrench”)
Spray liberally the two Marmon clamps that attach the exhaust down pipe to the turbo and the Marmon clamp that attaches the exhaust up-pipe to the turbo. (Do this at least an hour, preferably over night, before starting removal to give the penetrant a chance to work).
Remove the plastic cover that’s above the fuel filter.
Remove the intake hose that runs from the air filter to the Turbocharger inlet. Make sure and remove the small sensor tube plugged into the side of the intake hose. To make it easier to remove the hose, unbolt the “air Inlet bracket” (figure 7 in the above diagram).

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2002 and Newer Ford Crown Victoria Model 750108 Compact Speaker Installation Instructions

The lives of people depend on your proper installation and servicing of Federal products. It is important to read and follow all instructions shipped with the products. In addition, listed below are some other important safety instructions and precautions you should follow:
Before Installation
Qualifications
• To properly install an electronic siren: you must have a good understanding of automotive electrical procedures and systems, along with proficiency in the installation and service of safety warning equipment. Always refer to the vehicle’s service manuals when performing equipment installations on a vehicle.

Sound Hazards
• Your hearing and the hearing of others, in or close to your emergency vehicle, could be damaged by loud sounds. This can occur from short exposures to very loud sounds, or from longer exposures to moderately loud sounds. For hearing conservation guidance, refer to federal, state, or local recommendations. OSHA Standard 1910.95 offers guidance on “Permissible Noise Exposure.”
• All effective sirens and horns produce loud sounds (120 dB) that may cause permanent hearing loss. Always minimize your exposure to siren sound and wear hearing protection. Do not sound the siren indoors or in enclosed areas where you and others will be exposed to the sound.
• Federal Signal siren amplifiers and speakers are designed to work together as a system. Combining a siren and speaker from different manufacturers may reduce the warning effectiveness of the siren system and may damage the components. You should verify or test your combination to make sure the system works together properly and meets federal, state and local standards or guidelines.

During Installation
• DO NOT get metal shavings inside the product. Metal shavings in the product can cause the system to fail. If drilling must be done near the unit, place an ESD approved cover over the unit to prevent metal shavings from entering the unit. Inspect the unit after mounting to be sure there are no shavings present in or near the unit.
• DO NOT connect this system to the vehicle battery until ALL other electrical connections are made, mounting of all components is complete, and you have verified that no shorts exist. If wiring is shorted to vehicle frame, high current conductors can cause hazardous sparks resulting in electrical fires or flying molten metal.
• Be sure the siren amplifier and speaker(s) in your installation have compatible wattage ratings.
• In order for the electronic siren to function properly, the ground connection must be made to the NEGATIVE battery terminal.

Get pdf 2002 and Newer Ford Crown Victoria Model 750108 Compact Speaker Installation Instructions

1983-1988 T-Bird MM Caster/Camber Plates

Thank you for purchasing Maximum Motorsports’ Caster/ Camber Plates. Our Caster/Camber Plates are designed to maximize the performance of your T-Bird’s front suspension. You will find many features that set our Caster/Camber Plates apart from the rest:
• The widest range of camber adjustment in the industry: Side-to-side reversible main plates double the camber adjustment with the underhood space limitations for camber slot length.
• Lifetime guaranteed high grade Teflon lined spherical bearings are used at the strut top mounting point. Urethane bushings do not provide positive location, and induce bending loads on the strut that reduce the strut’s lifespan and may even break the strut shaft.
• The main plates are spaced well above the strut tower, to restore bump travel for lowered cars.
• High grade alloy steel allows our plates to be thin and fatigue proof. Aluminum plates must be very thick and will un-necessarily reduce bump travel and hood clearance.
• Lifetime warranty against main plate bending.

IMPORTANT: The bearing used in our Caster/Camber Plates is swaged together with Teflon® in between the race and ball. This provides a very tight tolerance fit that prevents dirt from entering the bearing. The Teflon® reduces friction and minimizes wear over the lifespan of the bearing. The tight tolerances will not allow easy movement of the bearing center by hand. If the center of the bearing must be rotated, use the strut shaft as a lever to facilitate movement. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LUBRICATE THE BEARING. Any oil or grease will attract dirt and damage the Teflon®, voiding your warranty.
1. Before dismantling anything on your car, lay a straight edge across the fenders and measure down to the top of the strut shaft. Record this dimension, you will need it later.
2. Jack up the front of the vehicle and place firmly on jack stands.
3. Remove the front wheels.
4. On the passenger side of the car, place a floor jack under the control arm and jack up until slightly loaded.
5. If equipped with electronic ride control, unplug the wires and remove the adjusting mechanism. MM Caster/Camber Plates are not compatible with the adjusting mechanism.
6. Remove the strut top nut. Save the strut top nut, it will be used later. Note: It may be easier to initially loosen the nut with air tools.
7. Remove the three nuts/bolts that hold the factory strut mount in place. If present, drill and remove the pop rivet that retains the top mounting plate. Discard the top mounting plate.
8. Carefully lower the jack to bring the strut shaft down through the strut tower center hole, but do not completely unload the jack: the spring may become dislodged, causing injury and/or damage.
9. From the top of the strut tower, remove and discard the thrust washer, the top rubber bushing and the crush sleeves from the strut shaft.
10. Collapse the strut shaft down into the strut body far enough to remove the factory bottom plate and the dust boot. Discard the factory bottom plate. Save the dust boot.
11. Relax the strut shaft. Through the strut tower center hole, remove and discard the OEM bumpstop from the strut shaft.
12. Cut and remove the steel band clamp securing the plastic dust boot tube to the molded rubber/steel top mount. Seperate the dust boot tube from the rubber/ steel top mount. Discard the rubber/steel top mount, but save the dust boot tube.
13. Slip the dust boot tube back over the strut body. Lubricate the MM urethane bumpstop and slide it over the strut shaft with the conical portion facing upward. It is easiest to attach the bumpstop and the dust boot to one another later in the installation.

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2004 & Up Ford F-150 Grille Instructions

Installation Procedure
1. Open hood of vehicle
2. Remove nuts from (6) screws along top edge of grille (will reuse)
3. Remove the (2) bolts from outside metal brackets that hold grille to the hood (will reuse)
4. Remove (2) nuts that attached emblem to center of grille (will reuse)
5. Remove the grille and place on non-marring surface; remove inside metal brackets from each side that are held on by (2) screws each
6. Place new grille on non-marring surface and reinstall metal brackets
7. Reinstall emblem
8. Take new grille, reinstall on hood and center; finger tighten center two nuts. Install remaining four nuts and starting at center, tighten nuts and work your way to outside edges.
9. Install and tighten (4) bolts that hold outside metal brackets to hood.

Care
Vehicle should not be taken through automated car wash until 72 hours after installation. This material is manufactured with U.V. inhibitors; regular cleaning is required.

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FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plate Install

This Should be all the tools you need, Shown in Figure 2 and about 2 Hours from hood up to hood down. Including a Flat Blade screw driver, 8mm Box end wrench, 10mm socket, 10mm deep well socket, 3/8” drive ratchet with 6” extension, T30 Torx head bit, torque wrench, and a gripper to pull out and install a few “hidden” bolts to make sure you don’t drop them.

1. Disconnect Negative battery terminal and place a rag under it to prevent it from touching battery post.
2. Disconnect throttle body electrical connectors, Passenger Side is the Throttle position sensor and the driver’s side is the connector for the throttle motor.
3. Unplug MAF electrical connector and Remove CAI (or factory rubber elbow)
4. Remove large and small vacuum lines from right side of intake plenum.
5. Disconnect the plug from each fuel injector, disconnect electrical plug and vacuum from fuel rail pressure monitor. You can leave the pressure regulator attached.
6. Loosen fuel rails by removing the two screws on each side holding it to the intake plenum (8mm head size). Remove the wire loom ties by gently prying the base of them up with a screw driver, bolts shown in Figure 4.
7. Remove fuel rails on both sides by giving a gentle jerk in the upward motion to free the injectors of their o-ring seal. Leaving them rest in place until both sides are free. Then move them out of the way as best possible. Shown in Figure 5, the crossover tube can stay connected.

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2005-2009 Ford Mustang A-Pillar Rattle Noise

Some 2005-2009 Mustang vehicles may exhibit a rattle noise where the A-pillar meets the dash area. This rattle may be due to worn, missing or off location tape under the dash panel and/or A-pillar dual lock (velcro) fastener(s) not seated.

Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Remove A-pillar trim.
2. Inspect for tape under flanged edge of dash panel. If tape is missing or damaged, then add or replace with improved tape. This tape has a plastic top coating to protect the felt tape from wear. Install felt tape with adhesive side down.
3. Attach tape to end of screwdriver. (Figure 3) Insert under dash panel flange with plastic side of tape up. (Figure 4) Press down on dash panel to secure adhesive. Hold pressure on dash while removing screwdriver.
4. Inspect both A-pillar trim and A-pillar sheet metal to make sure both dual lock (velcro) fasteners are present. Replace if missing
5. Install A-pillar. Press to securely mate dual lock fastener.

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1999 - 2001 Ford Super Duty Keyless Entry Interface

As delivered by Ford, the factory keyless entry “locks out” when your truck is running. Installing this interface will allow the keyless entry to operate when these conditions are present:
1) Diesel Turbo Lifesaver is running your engine and
2) Ignition key is out of the ignition.

Installation procedure:
1. Install Diesel Turbo Lifesaver first and then install this interface.
2. Find factory fuse box under dash to left of steering column.
3. Remove cover from fuse box.
4. Locate and remove fuse # 19 (10amp), put in glove box for spare.
5. Insert 10 amp fuse with attached wires from Diesel Turbo Lifesaver Interface into fuse slot #19. Please note UP orientation on fuse and that it is delivered intentionally blown from the factory. Failure to observe UP orientation will cause the interface not to work.
6. Attach purple wire of interface to any one of the two purple wires from Diesel Turbo Lifesaver.
7. Secure interface box using supplied screws, cable ties or double stick tape.
8. Using file or wire clippers, cut a notch into fuse box cover to allow clearance for interface wires to enter fuse box (see diagram below).
9. Reinstall cover of fuse box.

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Remote Auto Start Installation Manual

This remote start product is intended for installation on vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions and electronic fuel injection only!
DO NOT INSTALL THIS UNIT INTO A MANUAL TRANSMISSION VEHICLE AS IT COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
• This product must be installed by qualified personnel according to these instructions and observing all safety features.
• The system should be placed into the valet mode when parked inside a garage or being left for service.
• Always notify service personnel that the vehicle is equipped with a Remote Starter.
• Only start the vehicle in a well ventilated area.
Do not use in a closed garage or indoors.

ITEMS INCLUDED:
• Main unit
• Remote transmitter(s)*
• Plug In LED
• Plug in program switch
• Harness kit with 2 heavy duty fuse holders
• Hood pinswitch
• Extended range receiver module*
• Owner’s manual
*S models are provided with single transmitter only.
Add-on modules do not include transmitters.
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES:
•VAC-10 Vacuum Switch Kit
• APP-1 Universal OEM transponder bypass kit
• APV-1 GM VATS, Passlock I&II bypass kit
• PDLM-3 Power door lock relay module

Before you begin the installation:
• Verify that the vehicle is equipped with electronic fuel injection.
• Verify that the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission.
• Check to see if the vehicle is equipped with any type of factory security system.
• Check to see if there is a pinswitch for the hood, if not one must be installed.
• Verify that the vehicle starts and idles properly before you start the installation.
• Verify with the customer the desired location for the program switch and LED.
• Always use a multimeter when verifying vehicle wiring.
Remote Start Installation Notes:
The remote start unit senses the vehicle’s success- ful start using one of the following methods:
1. Current sense
2. Tachometer sense
3. Spark or coil wire sense
4. Using optional vacuum switch

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Hub Conversion Kit Install

These instructions will cover the EMS Offroad Hub conversion kits:
• 94-99 Dodge 2500/3500 (HC-94D-xx)
• 00+ Dodge 2500/3500 (HC-00D-SRW-xx)(HC-00D-DRW-xx)
• 98+ Ford Super Duty (HC-SD-xx)
DRW = Dual Rear Wheel
SRW = Single Rear Wheel
1. Read all instructions before starting. Do not attempt the install unless you are an equipped and experienced mechanic.
2. When working with tools and chemicals, always wear the required safety equipment and glasses.
3. Check the parts list (for your kit) on the last page and Contact EMS Offroad about any shortages.
4. If there are any questions during the install, contact EMS Offroad. Do not modify any of the parts (UNLESS INSTRUCTED TO DO SO).
5. The Dodge 3500 DRW kits do not reuse the Wheel Adapter! There is a different new wheel hub for these trucks. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BORE THE INSIDE DIAMETER OF THE OEM WHEEL ADAPTER!
6. The Super Duty DRW Kit will reuse the Wheel Adapter. Before installing the kit, check to make sure the wheel adapter will fit over the new wheel hub. Due to differences in the OEM casting you may have to bore or grind the inside diameter of the wheel adapter to fit over the new wheel hub and lock out. DO NOT REMOVE MORE THEN 1/16 ” of material!!!
7. ABS equipped trucks must have a tone ring on the back of the hub, or the ABS will not work!
8. Table below notes kit specific steps thru out the instructions. If there is no note, it applies to all applications.
94-99 Dodge 2500/3500 94DOD
00+ Dodge 2500/3500 00DOD
98+ Super Duty 98SD
9. These kits do not increase your GVW (gross vehicle weight rating) or GAWR (gross axle weight rating).
10. 94DOD & 00DOD – The center cap of the wheels will need to have a hole cut into them, to be able to engage the lockout.
11. The new locking hubs will require the lockout to be manually engaged for the 4 wheel drive to work. 98SD – the auto lock will no longer work.
12. Inspect all parts. If any parts appears to be damaged or does not fit/function contact EMS Offroad. There are no returns on modified, abused, neglected, altered or improperly installed parts.

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1998-Newer Ford Taurus FP-611 Base Installation Instructions

The FP-611 (1998-Newer Ford Taurus base) is a no-holes passenger side base. Installing a no-holes base does not require drilling any holes into the vehicle.
Installing the FP-611 Base in the vehicle:
1. Place both front seats of the vehicle in their most rearward position.
2. Remove the following fasteners that hold the seats down to the vehicle floor: Front right seat fastener on driver’s side and front left seat fastener on passenger’s side.
3. while lifting seat up slightly, slide the FP-611 base in between the vehicle floor and the seat. The platform portion of the base should be positioned toward the front of the vehicle.
4. Line up the holes, (some bases have slots which allow front-to-back or side-to-side adjustment) re-install the seat fasteners and tighten, securing both the seats and the FP-611 Base to the floor.

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1960-1965 Ford - 1964-1965 Ford Fairlane Falcon Booster & Master Cylinder Installation

Proper operation of your brakes is essential for your safety and the safety of others. Any brake service should be performed ONLY by persons experienced in the installation and proper operation of brake systems. It is the responsibility of the person installing the component or kit for the particular application. After installation and before operating your vehicle, be sure to test the function of the brakes under controlled conditions.

Take time to read all the literature that came with this kit. Check the provided list of parts against what you received to ensure all parts are present. While this kit was designed to make the process of changing brake parts as simple as possible, with some kits it may be necessary to make minor changes to your car.

REMOVAL OF OLD PARTS
1. Remove the snap ring which connects the master cylinder push-rod to the brake pedal, retain bushings, eccentric bolt and hardware
2. Remove air cleaner from carburetor.
3. Disconnect wires from stop light switch.
4. Disconnect brake tubes from master cylinder junction block.
5. Remove and discard two bolts which attach master cylinder to firewall.
6. Remove master cylinder and push-rod.
7. Remove and discard two bolts located above master cylinder mounting holes. Discard the reinforcing plate which these bolts attach.

Get pdf 1960-1965 Ford - 1964-1965 Ford Fairlane Falcon Booster & Master Cylinder Installation

6.9L & 7.3L 093 Turbo Upgrade Kit

You have just purchased the finest turbo system available for the 6.9 and 7.3 liter diesel engine. The following information will assist you in the installation of your ATS turbo system.

IMPORTANT: It is very important to read all the instructions carefully prior to any installation of your turbo system. Normal mechanical and safety procedures should be followed.

1. Disconnect both batteries at the negative terminals.
2. Remove the air cleaner and the air cleaner canister from the engine.
3. Remove the 1/2″ nut holding the wire loom clamp to the rear engine lifting bracket.
4. Remove the rear engine lifting bracket.
5. On the 1983-1992 year models, the vacuum block located above the right bank valve cover (passenger side) needs to be unbolted from fire wall. Then, if the vehicle has sound insulating blanket covering the fire wall, you must remove one half or approximately 14″ off the passenger side using a utility knife. If there is any insulation that is left hanging loose, it should be retained to the fire wall using the screws removed from the passenger side. Next, reinstall the vacuum block, using an 1/8″ drill bit, three inches more to the passenger side and three inches higher than the original location.
NOTE: On the 1992 1/2 and new trucks, the vacuum block has been relocated to the drivers side inner fender
6. On vehicles with an automatic transmission, you need to remove the 1/2″ cap screw holding the dipstick tube and vacuum line to the bell housing. Remove the dipstick tube. Next on 1983-1988 year models, move the vacuum line to the drivers side of the transmission and then secure the vacuum line to the transmission with a 1/2″ cap screw. Reinstall the 1/2″ cap screw on the passenger side of the transmission. On some 1991 and all 1992-1993 trucks, there is a ground strap on the back of the right cylinder head (passenger side). Remove the ground strap from the back of the cylinder head and bolt it to the top of the head, using one of the valve cover bolts on the passenger side.
NOTE: There are different dipstick tubes for the C6 and the E4OD Transmissions.
7. Using a pry bar or a piece of 2″ pipe, Bend the lip on the fire wall rearward directly behind the right bank head (passenger side), where the head shield is riveted to the body.

Download pdf 6.9L & 7.3L 093 Turbo Upgrade Kit

CD-QS & CD-QS-Kit Questar Roof Mounted Light Install Instructions

Visual Inspection– Many vehicles have a large area in which to mount the Questar® spotlight. In addition to the location specified above, you should be able to find other locations that will allow the mounting of additional optional equipment on the roof. Some headliners have optional overhead storage compartments. Always try to mount the Questar spotlight in an area where the headliner is on a flat surface and tight to the roof liner. It is necessary to check under the headliner to make sure there are no wire harnesses or other obstructions where the trim grommet is to be installed. Inspect the roof structure to make sure that you will not be cutting a structural roof member.

For vehicles not listed in application guide– Use the following steps to determine if you can install a Questar® spotlight in a vehicle not listed in this guide.
1. Remove sun visor and/ or any other parts in the way so the headliner can be lowered on at least one side.
2. Look for cross supports and supports running from front to rear that would interfere with the area needed to mount the spotlight. Removal of these supports is not recommended. Use a flashlight or droplight. If necessary, take measurements to determine if space is available. Trim Grommet space requirements are: 4G-TG, for CD-QS-1 & 2: 9” long x 6” wide and 4G-VTB, for CD-QS-3 & 4: 6” round.
3. Choose a mounting location on a flat surface of roof, allowing as much contact as possible for the stabilizer plate on the spotlight. Also be aware of roof corrugations, and double-skin roofs. Note: Spotlight must be mounted through only the outer skin of roof.
4. Once an acceptable location for distance “A” or “B” (refer to Questar Application Guide on pg.2) is determined, the headliner may be put back into position and the installation can proceed according to the Questar
Installation Guide.
Note: Tin snips or air nibblers are needed for double panel steel roofs
Note: Vehicles with double-steel roofs: The inner steel roof must be cut out!

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SA314 Mounting Bracket 2003 Ford Expedition

The siren speaker wires must exit through the bottom of the siren. The siren wire hole is also the drainage hole. Improper mounting will damage the driver and void the warranty. Sirens produces extremely loud emergency warning tones! Exposure to these tones without proper and adequate hearing protection, could cause ear damage and/or hearing loss!

Installation:
1. You will note that the bracket can be mounted on either side of the hood latch. Using the holes indicated, (depending on which side of the vehicle you wish to mount the siren) mount the siren to the bracket using the mounting hardware supplied.
2. On the radiator cross member (on either side of the hood latch) you will find 2 holes, one square hole and one round hole. Insert the extruded “U” nut into the square hole so the extended screw sleeve faces the rear of the vehicle. The “U” nut must clip onto the cross member and slide over so that the screw sleeve lines up with the round hole.
3. Take the siren bracket with siren attached and place it into position on the mounting surface. Secure it into place by screwing the supplied hex head bolt into the “U” nut. Be sure to run the vehicle horn wires behind the siren bracket.
4. Secure the siren bracket on top by screwing in the 3 supplied self tapping screws. Use a drill with a socket attached.
5. Extend the white (positive) and black (negative) siren wires to your siren amplifier and connect them as shown in the amplifier’s instructions.

Get pdf SA314 Mounting Bracket 2003 Ford Expedition

E-3 Fuel Saver 7000 Installation Instructions

Step 1- Determine the Correct Fuel Line Adapter
This section aids in determining the best fuel line adapter in your kit to use to maintain fuel supply for the E3 Fuel Saver 7000.
IMPORTANT
If you have Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) system with a high pressure fuel line with a “Schrader valve fuel stem” proceed to the section entitled “INSTALLING THE SCHRADER VALVE CONNECTORS” shown on the next page. If you have a Schrader Valve Stem, you will need the correct Schrader adapter (either FORD or UNIVERSAL Schrader adapter). These adapters are included in your kit. If your engine is NOT EQUIPPED with a high pressure fuel rail Schrader valve stem, then proceed to the section “INSTALLING THE GASOLINE SUPPLY MODULE.”

For Older Vehicles With Carburetors
If your vehicle is equipped with a carburetor (older model vehicles) then you will need an optional FLOW REDUCER KIT to receive maximum gas mileage benefits from the E3 Fuel Saver 7000.

Note: The “Gasoline Supply Module” (in your E3 Fuel Saver 7000 kit) will be the only option for connecting the E3 Fuel Saver 7000 on vehicles with carburetors.

Brief Description
The Flow Reducer is designed to mechanically lower the float by decreasing gasoline flow to a carburetor. 99% of carburetors do not function using an onboard computer with an O2 sensor and in order for the E3 Fuel Saver 7000 to give your carbureted vehicle optimum gas mileage results it is necessary to lower the float level. This prevents excess gasoline from entering your engine. This is an OPTIONAL piece of equipment and is not included in the E3Fuel Saver 7000 kit. It may be purchased separately.

Installation
1) Connect into the fuel line and place the Flow Reducer within close proximity to the carburetor for easy adjustment. (See “Flow Reducer Sketch” on page 2).
2) Secure the Flow Reducer with hose clamps on both ends to prevent gasoline leaks. (See “Hose Clamp Diagram” on page 2)
3) Open the Flow Reducer about ¼ turn.
4) Start your engine and check for leaks.
5) For Standard LOW LOAD Driving: Set engine to a constant 2500-3000 RPM’s. This will simulate a low load road test. Once your RPM’s are reached, begin to close the Flow Reducer until the engine starts to stall. VERY SLOWLY close The Flow Reducer to the point ONLY where the sputtering stops and NO FURTHER.
6) Install the “Gasoline Supply Module” as per the Flow Reducer sketch. After installing the Gasoline Supply Module and securing it with hose clamps go to STEP 2 and continue your installation. NOTE: Do not install the Gasoline Supply Module between the carburetor and the Flow Reducer valve.

Get pdf E-3 Fuel Saver 7000 Installation Instructions

Lincoln LSE Body Kit Installation Instructions

The information contained in this installation guide is anecdotal, is provided by non-professional LS owners, and is not endorsed by LS Koncepts. Hopefully installers will find this information useful; however they should use caution and common sense before undertaking any of the procedures described, as working on automobiles may be dangerous. LS Koncepts makes no representations of the effect non-professional modifications or servicing may have upon the warranty or safe operation of your vehicle.

The body parts have been factory primed with Transtar Hydroflex® Waterborne Primer. Hydroflex is a flexible, low V.O.C. Waterborne primer that provides excellent paint adhesion on this type of plastic. This primer can be very sensitive to solvents. The removal of this primer is costly, difficult and not very practical. Please follow the recommended refinishing instructions outlined below.

RECOMMENDED REFINISHING STEPS:
1. Wash the surface of the part with soap and water to remove any surface contaminants, rinse and dry thoroughly with a clean, soft, lint free cloth.
2. For best results, use gray sanding pad, such as 3M’s ScotchBrite, to scuff the entire surface of the part.
3. If sanding is necessary, dry sand with 360 or finer grit sandpaper. Upon sanding, if the film appears to be thing (less than one mil), we recommend that an additional application of Transtar Hydroflex® Waterborne Primer be applied to the part. Allow the primer to dry thoroughly prior to the application of the sealer, base coat and clear coat.
4. Re-clean the part, rinse and dry with clean, soft, lint free cloth.
5. Refer to the paint manufacturer instructions for proper application of sealer, color, and/or clear coats as instructed for the painting of flexible parts.

Get pdf Lincoln LSE Body Kit Installation Instructions

Install OEM HID Lights in your Mustang

Be aware that this does not replace factory instructions or manuals for service work, but is a free *how-to* following the basic steps that were done on our own in-house car to make the 2008+ factory HID headlamps work on our 2005 GT that originally was not equipped with these headlights. It is worth what you’re paying for it! These instructions may or may not work on your vehicle, and we are not responsible for any damage or problems that may arise when you attempt this modification on your own vehicle.

A factory shop manual should be available for reference during installation. If, after reading these and any accompanying directions, you feel that you may not be able to complete the installation safely and properly, please seek out professional installation by certified technicians. Vehicle should be off with key removed from ignition and in park with parking brake set prior to beginning installation.
With all that said, let’s get started!
Difficulty/ knowledge level to complete 3.5 (1=easy, 5=hard)
• Source the following:
o OEM HID Headlights from 2008-newer Mustang or from Ford directly
o OEM HID Harness from 2008-newer Mustang (P.N. 8R3Z-14290-GA)
o (1) two-pack of rectifier diodes from Radio Shack P.N. 276-1141
o Approx 4” of #14-18 wire
o Soldering Gun – solder all connections
o Solder
o Heat Shrink tubing (small) or electrical tape
• Disconnect Battery
• Remove front bumper
• Remove OEM Headlights
• Remove OEM Headlight Harness from the fuse box – temporarily removing the other 3 main connectors and the (+) terminal will make life a lot easier.
• Take new harness, uncap the cover that hides all the wires going into the main fuse module – this is light grey in color
• Remove the two green strips that hold all the pins in place.
• Using a small pick to open the locking tab, move wire on pin 9A (blue w/light green stripe) to pin 8D – this will energize the second low-beam relay
• Jump 2A (low beam light green w/white stripe) to F7 (high yellow w/white stripe) with one rectifier diode, making sure that power is only allowed to go in the direction from the high beam wire to the low beam, not vise-versa. (ring on diode facing the low beam) If this is backwards, you will know because your headlights will be stuck in the high-beam shutter mode, and flash to pass and low beams will not function. A piece of jumper wire will be required here as the diode is not long enough, and it will need to be heat-shrunk to avoid the possibility of shorting to another wire. Be careful to not overheat the diode, it absorbs heat rapidly from the soldering gun – a heat sink (needle nose pliers) can help here to hold everything and keep the diode from overheating
• Jump A6 (low beam white wire) to F6 (high beam purple w/yellow stripe) with the other rectifier diode, again following cautions above.
• Reassemble junction-box end of harness and install harness in place of original.
• Install new headlights, connect to harness
• Temporarily plug in battery to test for proper operation
• If everything checks out (low beam, high beam, flash to pass), complete reassembly of car as normal – drill and mount relay pack to passenger side strut tower or inner frame area where convenient. Be sure to align headlights so as to not blind oncoming drivers.

Get pdf Install OEM HID Lights in your Mustang

IRS Polyurethane Subframe Bushing Kit

Thank you for purchasing Maximum Motorsports’ Polyurethane IRS Subframe Bushing Kit. This kit is intended for use on the 1999-2004Cobra IRS subframe. The polyurethane bushings in this kit are considerably less compliant than the stock rubber IRS subframe bushings. These stiffer bushings virtually eliminate displacement of the IRS subframe relative to the chassis, thus improving stability and predictability of the car during acceleration, braking and cornering. The polyurethane still provides very good noise isolation. 1979-98 cars fitted with IRS require MMIRSU-2 bushing kit.

Note: MM has developed a Bushing Removal Tool (MMT-6) to aid in the fast removal of the stock rubber IRS subframe bushings. Not only does this tool reduce the time spent on this job by at least an hour, it also makes bushing re- moval much easier.

Note: Installation of this kit requires 6 jackstands, a floor jack, a hand drill, and an assortment of common hand tools.
1. Block the front wheels of the car.
2. Raise the rear of the car with a jack and support the rear of the car on a pair of jackstands. This first pair of jackstands MUST be positioned under the chassis of the car (e.g., under aftermarket subframe connectors or under the torque boxes), not under the IRS subframe.
3. Remove the rear wheels.
4. Remove the cat-back exhaust system.
5. Position the jack under the differential and raise the jack until it just contacts the differential. Do not lift the rear of the car off the jackstands.
6. Position a second set of jackstands 3 inches under the main rear tube of the IRS subframe. The main rear tube of the IRS subframe is located just forward of the gas tank.
7. Remove the two rear 12mm IRS subframe mounting bolts.
8. Slowly lower the rear of the IRS subframe onto the second pair of jackstands.

Get pdf IRS Polyurethane Subframe Bushing Kit

Supertop for Truck Installation Instructions

Before you begin installing this assembly, read all instructions thoroughly.
For a smooth fit:
For ease in installation, the product should be installed at temperatures above 72° F. Below this temperature, the fabric may contract an inch or more, making it difficult to fit to the vehicle. It is normal for fabric to contract and wrinkle when stored in the shipping carton. Within a few days after the installation, the fabric will relax and the wrinkles will disappear.

Mount Tailgate Brackets to Rear Belt Rails
Locate the Right Tailgate Bracket and the Right Rear Belt Rail in the parts kit. Place the Right Tailgate Bracket over the rear stud on the Belt Rail so that the bracket tab points away from the channel on the Belt Rail. Use a 1/4-20 Cap Nut to secure the bracket to the rail. Repeat with the Left Tailgate Bracket and Rear Belt Rail.

Assemble Main Bow Mount Brackets and Belt Rails
Locate the Right Front and Rear Belt Rails. Place the ends of the rails against
each other. Place the Right Bow Mount Bracket on top of the Belt Rails. Secure
the bracket to the rails with four (4) 1/4-20 Cap Nuts.
Repeat this with the Left Side Bow Mount Bracket and Belt Rails.

Get pdf Supertop for Truck Installation Instructions

Window Air Conditioner Installation and Operation

This appliance is equipped with a three-prong grounding plug for protection against possible shock hazards. If a two-prong wall receptacle is encountered, the customer is required to contact a qualified electrician and have the two-prong wall receptacle replaced with a properly grounded three-prong wall receptacle in accordance with the National Electrical Code. Room air conditioners are designed to operate according to the requirements on the nameplate and as shown in Table 1.

Fuse or circuit breaker ratings must be according to the fuse instruction label and as shown in Table 1. Do not plug models marked “Use on Single Outlet Circuit Only” into a circuit with another appliance or light fixture.

Receptacle Wiring
Receptacle wiring must be of adequate size for unit.
Refer to unit identification plate for exact power requirements.
Minimum size of wiring, based on power requirements, is:
Units up to 20 amps: 12 gauge
20-30 amp units: 10 gauge
LCDI or AFCI Power Cords

Underwriters Laboratories (UL) and the National Electric Code (NEC) now require power cords that sense current leakage and can open the electrical circuit to the unit. In the event the unit does not operate, check the reset button located on or near the head of the power cord as part of the normal troubleshooting procedure.
Use copper wire only. The consumer’s responsibility is to provide proper and adequate receptacle wiring that conforms to all applicable codes. All wiring should be installed by a qualified electrician.

INSTALLATION
Complete step-by-step installation instructions are furnished with your unit. These instructions will be found on a separate page included with this manual or in the mounting kit assembly. Follow these instructions carefully. Keep these instructions with this manual for future reference. Your unit will be one of the following designs:
• Unit with a window mounting kit
These models are designed for mounting through an opening in a wall. These units can be adapted to window installation by using the optional window mounting kit supplied with your unit.
• Unit without a window mounting kit
No window mounting kit is supplied with the unit. These models are designed for mounting through an opening in a wall. These units can be adapted to window installation by purchasing an optional window mounting kit. Consult your dealer to choose the kit that is appropriate for your model and installation.

Get pdf Window Air Conditioner Installation and Operation

Ford Powerstroke Pickups Model 1994-2004 Installation Instructions

Diesel Turbo Lifesaver is a computer controlled device that allows you to set an automatic engine idle sequence to properly cool your turbocharger before engine shutdown as required by Ford and Navistar. Failure to follow recommended turbo cooling procedures can lead to premature bearing failure that is NOT covered under the factory warranty.

Installing your Diesel Turbo Lifesaver is easily accomplished with common hand tools in a short period of time because our exclusive in line ignition harness eliminates wire cutting. No other product provides this feature and thus requires extensive wire cutting and probing that can damage electronics or void your factory warranty. In order to make your installation go as smoothly as possible, it is recommended that you read the instructions and plan your installation before starting.

Get detail pdf Ford Powerstroke Pickups Model 1994-2004 Installation Instructions

Swapping US V8 engines into Mercedes 350SL/380SL/450SL

Putting an American V8 Engine into a Mercedes 107 Chassis
Most owners find a 450SL’s power to be “adequate.” It’s a heavy car for its size, though, and it’s stately rather than aggressive or impressive in its acceleration. In additon, the high cost of an engine rebuild leads many to consider swapping in an American V8 as an alternative to having their 4.5 liter V8 rebuilt when the time comes for a rebuild. “So why aren’t engine swaps more frequently done?”

First of all, there are no “kits” of engine mounts, electricals, and so forth that would make such a swap easier (there are kits for Jaguars, but not for older Mercedes). As a result, every swap is “from scratch” - as a fellow 450SL owner commiserated:

“(Chevy 350) engine is in the car but (does) not fit, the oil filter casing is up against the steering box, we will have to use the remote oil filtering kits that are out there, if we can just get the casing to clear the box. When I decided to start to put money into the project I put an add in the Denver Post (that is where I’m from) to see if there were any shop’s or mechanics out there capable of the swap. This was after researching the project and deciding I wanted to try it because of the cost of the MBZ engine and its lack of power. I had already had the top end rebuilt several years back and considered it then. I had several calls and settled on the one who seemed the most optimistic about the project. Needless to say if (such swaps) have been done, the information is not really out there. I went with a Mechanic who had his own machine shop…..he machined the mounts and may have to machine a custom pan and reconfigure the tunnel for the transmission, my meeting on Saturday is going to be to discuss the time it would take to undertake this type of fabrication. Money will start to be an issue. The engine is new with out a mile on it, all the parts I have purchased are high quality so I have about $8000 in the parts including the engine. Have not paid the Mechanic yet but that will not be cheap I will have to draw a line somewhere along the way. I can still get the money back out of my parts but if I committed to the major re fabrication the cost of the Mechanic may be greater than the outcome. So I’m getting to the point of either pulling the plug or jumping in 100%.

I did consider other drive trains at the time but was only able to come up with the little information I was able to find on the Chevy swap. Nothing at all on the Ford or Mopar. There is an old publication of a book called engine swaps that had some information on the 350 into the 300 MBZ (sedan). This is where the suggestion of the Nova oil pan was found, also showed the link up from the tranny to the rear end. A few other suggestions that we thought would work in this application that have not yet panned out.

As it looks now if the pan is not the solution, moving the power steering is something that would cost more. Also the (widening) of the tunnel is a time thing; I do not really think that is a problem but the labor starts to add up. Tie rods were a problem also but it looks like my guy has figured that one out. The accel and trans linkage were both addressed in the book I talked about so those are not a problem… I talked to someone else this morning and they suggested a dry sump with a shallower racing oil pan.”

Get pdf Swapping US V8 engines into Mercedes 350SL/380SL/450SL

NuS Module Installation Guide

Notes for Wire Connection
Pin #1 : Red This wire is used as the (+)Constant Power input for the unit. This wire must be connected for the unit to function correctly.
Pin #2 : Green/ White This wire is the (+)Positive Parking light output. Connect this wire directly to the (+) trigger wire generally off the parking
light switch or found at or behind the fuse box.
Pin #3 : Red/ White This wire is used as the (+)Constant Power input for Starter and 2nd Ignition.
Pin #4 : White This wire is used to power the ( +)Accessory, which activates the blower motor for the heater or A/C
Pin #5 : Blue This wire will power (+)2nd Starter, (+) 2nd Accessory or (+) 2nd Ignition depending on the jumper selection at JM1.
Pin #6 : Yellow This wire is the (+) Starter Output.
Pin #7: Green/ Red This wire is used to power the (+) Ignition. This wire is also an input for the NUSTART used to monitor the status of the vehicle and for programming.
Pin #8 : Black This wire needs to be connected to a chassis (-)Ground. It is very important to make sure you have a good ground or the unit will not function correctly.

Alternator Sensing
1. Just like with Tachometer sensing you will need a Auto Ranging Digital Meter to test for the correct wire.
2. Set your meter to DC voltage for this type of sensing, compared to AC voltage for the Tach sensing.
3. To find this wire you will need to locate the alternator. Look for the Stator wire, Which is always located somewhere on the alternator. It will usually be a smaller gauge wire and generally by itself.
4. With the vehicle in the OFF position the voltage should read 0.00
5. Turn the key to Ignition and the voltage should read anywhere from 1 to 6 volts DC.
6. Next, start the vehicle. The voltage should now read between 9 to 14 volts DC.
7. If this is the case you have found the Alternator wire, connect this to the Yellow/Black on CN 3
8. Set dipswitch #1 to the OFF position. Please note, you will not need to press the small black button on the side of the brain, it is automatic.

Get pdf NuS Module Installation Guide

Fass Fuel Systems Installation Manual

The installation of the FASS FUEL SYSTEM can be relatively simple when the following steps are followed.
1. Inventory the package components completely. Notify place of purchase immediately of any parts missing or damaged.
2. We have invested many hours into the development of the installation and owner’s manual’s to simplify the installation and operation of the FASS Fuel System. Please read the owner’s manual and the installation manual completely before attempting installation. Understand how the system operates and installation recommendations before beginning installation. Most of the questions that you will have will be answered in one of these manuals. If you have a question please review the installation or owner’s manual.
3. The installation recommendations contained herein are suggested installation guidelines only. Each installation can and may vary considerably because of the many options and accessories available to the truck market.
Installation personnel should use good judgment and common sense when installing the FASS Fuel System.
If any installation procedure is uncertain, contact place of purchase.

Due to training, communication and our relationship we have with our authorized dealers we recommend an authorized FASS Fuel Systems dealer for the installation of the FASS System. They are prepared to install the FASS System with the most efficiency. If a situation/problem arises during the installation they are most prepared for that situation/problem. It may take more time for an unauthorized shop to address the situation/problem. We will not be responsible.

NOTE: The use of a hydraulic fuel filter is because the canister is much thicker and provides more durability than a fuel filter canister. The element inside a hydraulic filter filters fuel exceptionally well!
For the 6 year warranty please fill out the “PRODUCT REGISTRATION FORM” and attach a copy of the sales receipt. We must receive the original product registration form and sales receipt within 30 days of the purchase or the 6 year warranty will not be valid.

Get pdf Fass Fuel Systems Installation Manual

S Controller Installation Guide CM4200

Connector 1
Pin #1: Red - This wire is used as the (+) Constant Power input for the unit. This wire must be connected for the unit to function correctly.
Pin #2: Green/White - This wire is the (+) Positive Parking light output. Connect this wire directly to the (+) trigger wire generally off the parking light switch or found at or behind the fuse box.
Pin #3: Red/ White - This wire is used as the (+) Constant Power input for Starter and 2nd Ignition.
Pin #4: White - This wire is used to power the (+) Accessory, which activates the blower motor for the heater or A/C.
Pin #5: Blue - This wire will power (+) 2nd Starter, (+) 2nd Accessory or (+) 2nd Ignition depending on the jumper selection at JM1.
Pin #6: Yellow - This wire is the (+) Starter Output.
Pin #7: Green/ Red - This wire is used to power the (+) Ignition. This wire is also an input for the CM4200 used to monitor the status of vehicle and for programming.
Pin #8: Black - This wire needs to be connected to a chassis (-) Ground It is very important to make sure you have a good ground or the unit will not function correctly.

Connector 2
Pin #1: Green/ White - This is the low voltage (-) Parking light output 200mA. Some newer vehicles require a (-) parking light output instead of the standard (+) output (reference connector #1) such as the new Jeeps and even some Fords.
Pin #2: Red/ Black - This wire is a (-) 2nd Starter 200mA output. Normally the only vehicle this would be used on Nissan’s and older Ford’s. You may connect this wire to the purple pigtail of the additional relay on CN #1. This will result in a (+) trigger output for the 2nd starter on the blue wire of the same relay.
Pin #3: Violet - This wire is the (-) Negative when armed out. It will provide a (-) output anytime the unit is armed or remote started. This wire is pre-wired into the starter-kill. This wire could be used for adding window roll-up.
Pin #4: Black - This is the (-) Status Out wire (Ground when running). It provides you with a (-) 200mA output as soon as the remote start is activated. This is the wire you would connect to a Transponder Module or maybe a VATS module.
Pin #5: Orange - This is the Rearm wire. It provides you with a (-) pulse when armed, after remote start and then again one second after remote start shuts down.
Pin #6: Orange/White - This is the Disarm wire. It provides you with a (-) pulse when disarmed and before remote start.
Pin #7: White - This is the (-) 250mA horn honk output wire.

Get pdf S Controller Installation Guide CM4200

2005-07 Ford Mustang Cold Air Induction System Installation Instructions

Thank you for purchasing Granatelli Signature Series cold air induction system. Like all Granatelli Motor Sports products, great pride and precision craftsmanship went into making these parts.
1. Disconnect your negative battery cable
2. Sliding the red safety tab backward, unplug your factory mass airflow sensor. Depress the black and slide the connector from the sensor itself.
3. Remove the breather tube from both the stock air intake and the valve cover; you will no longer be using this piece.
4. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the stock air box to the inner fender. Be sure to keep track of this bolt, you will be reusing it later (step 7).
5. Loosen the hose clamp holding the stock air inlet tube to the throttle body.
6. Remove complete air intake assembly from the engine bay.
7. Place the Granatelli heat shield in the approximate location that the factory air box was. This is where you will be reusing the bolt from step 4 to mount the heat shield.
8. At the opposite end of the heat shield you will find the small hole in the plastic. Using the supplied zip tie, mount the heat shield to the nearest ABS brake line.
9. Place the supplied silicon sleeve around the oval throttle body side of the Granatelli intake tube.
10. Slide both of the supplied large hose clamps over the silicon sleeve. One hose clamp will be used to attach the silicon sleeve to the intake tube and the other will be used to tighten the sleeve to the throttle body.
11. Place the Granatelli air intake assembly into the approximate location in the engine bay with the air filter end inside the heat shield area. Slide the silicon sleeve over the throttle body. Use the hose clamp to tighten the air intake tube securely to throttle body. Note: Make sure hose clamps go in the same direction to insure a cleaner look.
12. Place the air filter clamp over the air intake tube, followed by the air filter itself. Use the clamp to tighten the filter into place.

€ pdf 2005-07 Ford Mustang Cold Air Induction System Installation Instructions

K9 Security and Remote Start System Installation Manual

This system is intended for installation on vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions and electronic fuel injection only!
• This product must be installed by qualified personnel according to these instructions and and observing all safety features.
• The system should be placed into the valet mode when parked inside a garage or being left for service.
• Always notify service personnel that the vehicle is equipped with a Remote Starter.
• Only start the vehicle in a well ventilated area. Do not use in a closed garage or indoors

Before you begin the installation:
• Verify that the vehicle is equipped with electronic fuel injection.
• Verify that the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission.
• Verify that the vehicle starts and idles properly before you start the installation.
• Always use a multi-meter when verifying vehicle wiring.
Remote Start Installation Notes:
The system senses the vehicle’s successful start using one of the following methods:
1. Current sense
2. Tachometer sense
3. Spark or Coil Wire sense

If the Current Sense feature of the system does not allow proper operation, the tachometer sense/spark sense wire may be used, or an optional vacuum switch can be installed.

To use the tach sense/spark sense wire, set dip switch #4 to the off position. Connect the gray wire directly to the vehicle’s tach wire or extend it into the engine compartment and wrap it several times around a spark plug or coil wire.

In situations were a tach wire is unavailable or does not allow proper operation, an optional vacuum switch can be installed. The vacuum switch is designed to be placed in line with one of the vehicle’s vacuum hoses and provide a ground output (N/C) until the engine is started. To use the vacuum switch, set dip switch #2 to the off position. Connect the yellow wire (3-pin red connector) to one terminal of the vacuum switch and connect the other terminal to ground.

Get pdf K9 Security and Remote Start System Installation Manual

Ford Powerstroke 7.3L Dodge Cummins 5.9/6.7L Complete Kit Quick Reference Guide

When we say complete, we mean COMPLETE. All kits come with a solid mass flywheel, disc, pressure plate assembly, alignment tool, pilot bearing already pressed in the flywheel, release bearing, as well as all new flywheel bolts, washers(where applicable) and clutch mounting bolts.

PERFORMANCE GUIDELINES
ULTIMATE - This is the top of the line performance from POWERFORCE.
This clutch is designed for the heavily upgraded diesel enthusiast. Clutch is the most aggressive with the highest torque capacity using the lever assist clutch and cerametallic disc. Aggressiveness can prove problematic with towing depending on driving style.
EXTREME - This package is essentially the same as the ULTIMATE, only with an organic disc instead of cerametallic, allowing for a smoother engagement. This lever assist clutch option is ideal for the moderately tuned truck that does a lot of towing and city driving.
HIGH - The high performance package is the more economical, non lever assisted clutch with a cerametallic disc. This offers a considerable increase in torque capacity over stock, while not breaking the bank.
MILD - This clutch is the unit of choice for the person who wants a similar to stock replacement. You get a greater torque capacity than your stock clutch, leading to increased clutch life. It is a non-lever assist unit packaged with an organic disc, making an affordable complete solid mass conversion.

Get pdf Ford Powerstroke 7.3L Dodge Cummins 5.9/6.7L Complete Kit Quick Reference Guide

Superlift Suspension System Installation Instructions

Superlift TruSpeed Speed Sensor Calibrator For All Chrysler Dodge and Jeep Vehicles 1992 – 2003, Ford Ranger / Explorer 1998-2003, and All Toyota Trucks and SUVs 1995-Present INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS.
Installation requires a professional mechanic. The overall vehicle must be in excellent working condition; repair or replace all worn parts.

Read instructions several times before starting. Be sure you have all needed parts and know where they install. Read each step completely as you go.
NOTES:
• A soldering iron or gun, wire crimping pliers, and a voltmeter or test light are required for installation.
• A vehicle service manual should be on hand for reference.
• Route all wires away from any sharp edges or high heat sources. Protect any wires as necessary to avoid chafing or short-circuits.
• There are four possible methods that can be used to calibrate the TruSpeed module depending on the specific application. Refer to steps 5-8.
• It is recommended that the TruSpeed calibrator be mounted somewhere in the passenger compartment in the vehicle. However, the TruSpeed is water resistant and can be mounted under the hood provided it is placed away from direct heat and protected from the weather.
• For clarification when referring to the calibration charts, whole numbers indicate complete (360 degree) turns of the TruSpeed adjustment screw, while fractional numbers indicate partial turns of the adjustment screw. For example, a chart that indicates 16 ½ turns means the adjustment screw should be turned clockwise 16 complete turns, plus one ½ turn.
• If for any reason the calibrator must be reset, rotate both adjustment screws located on the side of the TruSpeed counterclockwise 15 times.
• The TruSpeed can be calibrated for two different tire diameters for those who make seasonal tire changes or those who run stock tires every day and larger tires for shows or off-road use. The setting changes are made by flipping the toggle switch on the side of the module. The settings must be calibrated separately. Refer to steps 5-9.
• It is extremely important that the TruSpeed settings are switched or recalibrated whenever tire and / or gear changes are made. Failure to do so will cause inaccurate speedometer / odometer readings and may affect ABS function. It is the driver’s responsibility to ensure that the TruSpeed is set properly for the vehicle’s current tire / gear combination.

Get pdf Superlift Suspension System Installation Instructions

Ford Mustang Pedal Car | Assembly Instructions

Install
Windshield:
Please check all components in Figures 1 and 2 before assembly.
Align windshield tabs with three holes in Mustang hood and place windshield in position.
Secure windshield by placing three lock washers on windshield tabs on underside of hood

Install Steering Shaft:
Insert the upper end of the steering shaft into the hole near the dashboard.
Insert the lower end of the steering shaft into the short steering arm located in the front of the crossmember
Secure steering shaft with washers and cotter pins

Attach Steering
Wheel:
Turn the car onto its wheels, and put the steering wheel on the steering shaft.
Using a wrench and a screw driver, secure it with the supplied screw and the nut
Attach Gear Shift:
Put the Gear Shift lever through the “H” shaped hole and fasten with the supplied nut and bolt

CAUTION
Make sure that everyone who uses this car has been fully instructed in its operation. This car does not have a braking system. Do not ride on hills, on steps or near water. Never use car on rough terrain, for jumping or other stunts. Parental supervision required. Shoes should be worn.

MAINTENANCE
Every three months check wheels for wear and grease or oil wheel on axle.

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AviStart 3300 Installation Guide

In diesel vehicles it is necessary to interface with the wire that turns on the WAIT TO START light in the dash- board. This wire illuminates the bulb until the vehicle’s glow plugs are properly heated. When the light goes out the vehicle can be started. This wire is always available at the connector leading to the bulb in the dashboard. It can also be found at the Engine Control Module (ECM) in many vehicles.

To test and determine the polarity of this wire:
1. Set your multimeter to DCV or DC voltage (12 or 20V is fine).
2. Attach the (+) probe of the meter to (+)12V.
3. Probe the wire that you suspect leads to the bulb with the (-) probe of the meter.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
5. If the meter indicates 12 volts until the light goes out you have isolated the correct wire and the wire’s polar- ity is negative (ground while the bulb is on).
6. If the meter reads zero volts until the light goes out and then reads 12 volts, you have isolated the correct wire and the wire’s polarity is positive.
- Test all functions. The “Using Your System” section of the Owner’s Guide is very helpful when testing.
- When testing, don’t forget that this system is equipped with Nuisance Prevention Circuitry™(NPC™). NPC can bypass trigger zones, making them appear to stop working. See the Nuisance Prevention Circuitry section.
- Review and complete the Safety Check section of this guide prior to the vehicle reassembly.

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Ford 2″ Coil Spring Spacer Kit with Stud Extenders Installation Instructions

If your vehicle has factory 2 ½” studs holding the coil spring onto the axle assembly, you will not need to use the stud extensions.

Step:
1. Read complete instructions and check Bill of Materials before beginning.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle and support the frame so that the front tires just touch the ground and remove the front tires.
3. Remove the lower shock bolts and the sway bar end link attaching points.
4. Remove the upper and the lower coil spring clamp bolt and nut with washer. See figure 1 and 2.
5. Force the axle half down so that the coil spring comes loose.
6. Remove the coil spring and the coil spring rubber isolator. See figure 3.
7. Install the corresponding Stud Extensions (if needed) onto the coil spring lower clamp stud and install the coil spring spacer onto the coil spring pad. See figure 4.
8. Install the coil spring onto the coil spring spacer and then into the frame. You may have to use a coil spring compressor. See figure 5.
9. Install the upper and the lower coil spring clamp bolt and nut with washer. Make sure that the coil spring is seated correctly into the upper frame. See figure 6 and 7.
10. Reconnect the sway bar end link attaching points and the shock nuts.
11. Torque all bolts and nuts to factory specifications. Re-torque all bolts and nuts after 500 miles.
12. Install front tires and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle onto the ground.
13. It is recommended that you have a front-end alignment.

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6600 Series Chip Module Installation

The vehicle must be turned off and the keys MUST NOT be in the ignition during the entire installation. We recommend that you place the keys in your pocket while installing the module. Failure to follow this suggestion may result in damage to your PCM.

Removal of PCM
Begin by disconnecting the negative battery terminal of your car’s battery. Next, locate your car’s PCM. The PCM is held in place by a 7/32” or 5.5mm bolt. Please remove this bolt. Next, remove the wiring harness by use of 10mm socket and ratchet. Slowly and gently pull the PCM out of its location and out of the car.

PCM cleaning and preparation
1. Once you have removed the PCM, take a look at the side of the PCM opposite from the wiring harness. Gently, pry off the plastic or metal cover. The J3 port (chip port) will now be exposed. See figure 1.
2. Next, to properly clean the J3 connector, remove both covers from the PCM. To do this, remove the 5.5mm hex screws on the side of the PCM. See figure 2.
3. On older models, use a clean rag to wipe away the protective grease on either side of the connector. On newer models there is no grease, but instead there is rubber coating on the connector. Use a piece of Scotchbrite to scrub away the rubber coating on the port. On all models, then use a piece of Scotchbrite to sand the contacts until hint of copper can be seen evenly on both sides. DO NOT go past the copper or you will ruin the PCM.
It is extremely important that the port is properly cleaned. Otherwise, the car may not start or the chip may not function properly. Do not use sandpaper or anything other than what we recommend. Failure to follow these instructions may result in damage to your PCM. See figure 3 and 4.
4. Reinstall the cover on the computer and hand tighten the hex bolts.

Installing the module
1. Slide the switch cable connector onto the slot in the chip. See figure 5.
2. Insert the module into the J3 port as shown. See figure 6 for correct mounting.
3. Carefully work the PCM to its original location.
4. Route the switch to wherever you will want to mount it or place it.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.

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1999-2004 Ford F-250 / F-350 V8, V10 & Diesel 2.5” Leveling Kit Installation Instructions

Jack-it, Inc. strongly recommends this kit be installed by a professional mechanic. Installing this kit will not strengthen or reinforce the stock frame of the vehicle, nor will it increase rollover protection. This kit is designed to level the front end of the vehicle in relation to the height of the rear end. We strongly advise you to operate your vehicle responsibly at all times and that you periodically inspect all suspension and drive train components for tightness of fit or for any damage.

Prior to Installation
inspect vehicle’s frame for stress cracks paying extra attention to the steering box and suspension to frame attaching points. Carefully inspect track bar, steering system, drive line system, ball joints and wheel bearings–the entire vehicle must be in top working condition. Repair or replace any broken or worn parts. Always wear safety glasses and use proper precautions to secure and block vehicle prior to installation.

Parts List
Match parts and hardware to parts lists before starting kit install. Jack-it Accessories will be happy to replace any missing or defective parts (replacement parts are shipped no charge UPS Ground–express shipping is offered for an additional charge).

Get pdf 1999-2004 Ford F-250 / F-350 V8, V10 & Diesel 2.5” Leveling Kit Installation Instructions

ProtectivGear Bumpers Installation

Step 1:
Locate the points along the pole where your car door would make contact (typically these points would be the door handle, the apex of the door, and down near the lower frame of the door). If two vehicles are parked side-by- side, you may want to take into consideration where the second vehicle door makes contact with the pole as well. This will offer the maximum product effectiveness and economy. Slight adjustment and arrangement will usually allow for mutually good ring location for both vehicles. However, in rare situations such as large variations in vehicle height (i.e. Corvette and Ford Excursion) it may be necessary to purchase additional bumper rings to properly protect the vehicles.

Step 2:
Mark the areas where the bumper rings are to be attached. Test the diameter fit of the bumper rings. Clean the area with the alcohol wipes and wipe dry.

Step 3:
Remove the adhesive strips of the bumper rings and gently trial position them in place. Please do not apply too much pressure or you will not be able to make any adjustments. You will want to make sure that the ends or seam area will not be facing your car door. Leave a 2-inch gap for easy installation of the nylon bolts. Take a look at the rings and make sure they are parallel to the floor and the ends of the rings line up.

Step 4:
In the gap area you created, thread one nylon bolt from right to left through the top holes. Repeat this step for the bottom holes.

Step 5:
Complete the installation of the bumper rings by attaching the nuts to the bolts until finger tight. Over tightening of the bolts will cause a loss of adhesion to the pole. Press on the entire length of the bumper rings to create full adhesion to the pole. Make sure the seam is well aligned.

Step 6:
Your first ProtectivGear is now in place. Repeat the above steps for the remaining rings. When all the bumper rings are in place, lightly condition the bumpers with the enclosed 303 vinyl protectant. We feel this product will add to the flexibility and durability of the vinyl rubber.

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Ford Timing Set Installation Instructions

Thank you for choosing COMP Cams® products! We know you have options in valve train component selection and we are proud to be your manufacturer of choice. Please read this instruction sheet carefully before beginning installation, and also take a moment to review the included limited warranty information.

Tools and supplies needed:
1. Basic hand tools as required for your particular camshaft and balancer bolts
2. Torque wrench
3. Pro Cam Lube (part #153 or #154) or suitable replacement
4. Camshaft Degree Kit (part #4796 including degree video)
5. Crankshaft Socket (part #4798 for Ford 302-351W, 429-460)
6. Thread locking compound
7. Engine repair manual for your particular engine

The following instructions begin after the timing cover and old timing set have been removed.
Installation Instructions
1. Clean everything! Make sure that the engine mounting surfaces and your new timing set have been thoroughly cleaned with a good solvent.
2. If you are using a timing set with three keyways, select the appropriate keyway for your camshaft timing specifications. COMP Cams ® recommends the standard timing position for most applications. This position uses the round or “O” timing and keyway marks. Standard Timing Location: This is the same as original O.E.M. setting. Use keyway and crankshaft gear tooth marked “O”.
4 Degree Advance: Use keyway and crankshaft tooth marked . Note: The or advanced position should not be used without degreeing the camshaft. Many camshafts have the proper advance built in. Advancing the cam will reduce intake valve to piston clearance and increase exhaust piston to valve clearance.
4 Degree Retard:
Use keyway and crankshaft gear tooth marked . Note: The or retarded position should not be used without degreeing the camshaft. Many cams have the proper advance built in. Retarding the cam will reduce exhaust valve to piston clearance and increase intake piston to valve clearance.
3. Install your lower timing gear on the crankshaft making sure that the timing marks are facing out toward you.
4. Now that the lower timing gear has been installed check the timing mark alignment in your engine manual. Rotate the crankshaft using your crankshaft socket until the timing mark on the gear is in the proper position (12 o’clock). For 240-300 6 cyl. see Note 1 before proceeding!
5. If your engine is equipped with a camshaft retaining plate or thrust plate, it should be installed at this time. Note that many Ford thrust plates are marked “back – bottom”. Before final installation check to make sure that the thrust plate is fitted correctly. 351W owners see Note 2 before proceeding!
6. Temporarily install your camshaft timing gear and rotate the camshaft until the timing mark on the camshaft gear is in the proper position per your engine manual instructions (6 o’clock).

Get pdf Ford Timing Set Installation Instructions

NavBus Installation and Operation Manual

NavBus is a NAVMAN proprietary system that allows multiple 3100 series instruments and NAVMAN chartplotters to share data and to use a single set of transducers. Clusters of up to four instruments are wired to a NavBus junction box which is then daisy chained via a two wire data cable to the next cluster and its NavBus junction box. Power may be run independently to junction boxes or you may choose to daisy chain the power as well.

These NAVMAN instruments can be connected by NavBus: 3100 Series family and any TRACKER 5000 Series chartplotters. Other compatible instruments can be connected to a NavBus system by NMEA connections. NMEA is an industry standard way of connecting instruments but it requires dedicated connections between instruments. NMEA cannot be converted to NavBus and shared using NavBus

Introduction
Correct installation is critical to the performance of the instruments. It is vital to read this manual and the documentation that comes with the instruments before starting installation.

Principals of NavBus
All setup data entered into one instrument is automatically sent to all other instruments of the same type. For example:
A transducer can be calibrated from any instrument which can display the transducer’s readings.

If the units (e.g. feet, metres, fathoms) are changed on one instrument then the same units are changed on all instruments. If setup data such as keel offset, speed damping or steer angle is set on one instrument then the same data is set on all instruments. The only setup data that is not shared with other instruments is backlight group, see below.

Backlight group
Each instrument can be assigned to a backlight group, which is 0, 1, 2, 3, or 4. If the backlight is changed on an instrument in group 1, 2, 3 or 4 then the backlight will automatically change in the other instruments in the same group. If the backlight is changed on an instrument in group 0 then no other.

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2006 Ford Fusion Quick Reference Guide

Your fuel tank can accommodate approximately 17.5 gallons (66.2 L) of gasoline. Your vehicle is designed to use unleaded gasoline with an (R+M)/2 octane rating of 87. Using gasoline with a lower octane rating may degrade performance.

TIRE PRESSURE
Your vehicle’s tire pressure specifications are found on the vehicle’s Safety Compliance Certification Label located on the driver’s door jamb. Check your tires for proper air pressure monthly; check the air pressure in your spare tire every six months. Always use an accurate tire pressure gauge. Check the tire pressure when tires are cold, after the vehicle has been parked for at least three hours or has been driven less than three miles. (As you drive, the temperature in the tire warms up, increasing the tire pressure.) Improperly inflated tires can affect vehicle handling and can fail suddenly, resulting in a possible loss of vehicle control. Refer to the Tires, Wheels and Loading chapter in the Owner’s Guide for further information.

FUSES
If the vehicle’s electrical components are not operating, a fuse may have blown. The fuse panel is located below the instrument panel on the driver’s side; remove the cover to view the fuses. Additional fuses are located in the power distribution box in the engine compartment. For more information regarding changing fuses, refer to the Roadside Emergencies chapter of your Owner’s Guide.

FUEL PUMP SHUT-OFF SWITCH
The fuel pump shut-off switch stops the electric fuel pump from sending fuel to your engine when your vehicle has sustained a substantial jolt. The switch is located in the passenger’s footwell, by the kick panel. For more information regarding the fuel pump shut-off switch, refer to the Roadside Emergencies chapter of your Owner’s Guide.

LOCATION OF SPARE TIRE AND TOOLS
The spare tire and jack are located in the trunk below the carpeted floor panel. The necessary tools are contained in the tool bag. For complete details on how to change your tire, refer to the Roadside Emergencies chapter in your Owner’s Guide

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Spark plug thread repair for Ford Triton cylinder heads

The Ford Triton Spark plug holes have been divided into three Types formodel years 1993 through 2005. The drawings below will help you identify each Type. Each individual cylinder head will have the same Type for all spark plug holes.

Gauge FT5CG will help you identify which Type the head is so you can make sure to use the correct installation tooling and can verify if the insert was installed to the same depth as original. Complete information on the use of this tool and installation of the inserts are contained in these instructions.

Full-Torque spark plug inserts for aluminum heads are made of aluminum and are hard anodized to improve the strength and integrity of the threads. They are made of aluminum to insure they will transfer heat from the spark plug the same as original.

Ford Motor has completed substantial dyno testing of Full-Torque inserts to validate and approve their use in aluminum cylinder heads. The chart to the right can be used as a guide only. Some heads manufactured between 1998 and 2003 may not conform to the chart.

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Ford Zetec E Engine Supplement

The most common engine fitment is the Ford Zetec E, however, Ford Duratec, Ford Pinto and Ford Cosworth engine fitments are also available from GKD. Customers have also previously made their own engine and gearbox mounts for the Ford V4 and V6 as well as the Mazda and Rover V8 engines. Please consult GKD for advice on suitability. GKD are always ready to advise on engine builds and ancillary equipment.

Engine mounts
Discard the Ford engine mounts and use those provided by GKD as illustrated.

Fitting the Fan to the Radiator
Lay the radiator down flat, so that it is resting on the four mounting lugs (W) Ensure that the two mounting dowels (X) are pointing away from you at the top. Lay the fan on to the fins as far as possible over to the right. Align the fan mounting holes so that it is possible to guide a small screwdriver through the holes, and by carefully twisting it round to make a passage way through the fins. Assemble the fan to the radiator as shown using items (3 & 4)
Note: Be careful not to pierce the radiator tubes!

Installing the Radiator Assembly
Line up the bottom radiator mounting lug (W) with mounting bracket (Y) Mark the position of the top radiator mounting lug (W) on the top rail of the chassis at both sides. Drill a hole at these points, ensure that the locator dowels (X) are pointing upwards.

Insert four hex head self-tapping screws (8) through the bracket (Y) and new hole (Z) and the hole in the top chassis rail and into the plain holes of the mounting lugs (W) ensure that the screws are of a suitable size for the lug holes…

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Ford F150, F250, F350 Body Lift Kit Installation Instructions

This kit should only be installed on a vehicle that is in good working condition. Before you install the kit, thoroughly inspect the vehicle for corrosion or deformation of the sheet metal around the factory body mounts. If the vehicle is suspected to have been in a collision or misused, do not install this kit. Off-road use of your vehicle with this kit installed may increase the stress applied to the factory body mounts. We do not recommend that any vehicle with a body lift kit installed be involved in any extreme off-road maneuvers such as jumping. Failure to observe this warning may result in serious personal injury and/or severe damage to your vehicle.

Front bumper
1. Loosen four bolts securing front bumper to front bumper brackets. Remove bolts securing front bumper brackets to frame horns. Remove front bumper.

Automatic transmission
1. The transmission is shifted via a cable. No modification is necessary.

Manual transmission
1. The shift lever should simply drop down into the floor. It may be necessary to notch the floorboard after lifting cab (as specified later in this document). If necessary, remove hydraulic clutch line from its retaining clip on body.

Automatic-shift 4WD
1. “Shift-on-the-fly” is electronically controlled. No modification is necessary.

WARNING
Some vehicles may be equipped with Supplemental Restraint System (SRS, or airbag). Accidental deployment of the airbag can result in serious personal injury or death. To avoid accidental deployment, the SRS must remain deactivated during installation of this kit. Do not allow anyone near the airbag during installation. Refer to the factory service manual or owner’s manual for the recommended procedure to disable the SRS. After kit installation, the SRS must be reactivated before driving the vehicle.

CAUTION
If the following step is not performed, the airbag clock-spring could be damaged. Do not turn the steering wheel while the steering shaft is disconnected.

Manual-shift 4WD
1. The shift lever should simply drop down into the floor. It may be necessary to notch the floorboard after lifting cab (as specified later in this document).

Fuel filler
1. Check fuel filler hose for ample flex and reach. Disconnect if necessary.

Install Kit Cab
1. Extended cab: Pull the bottom of rear seat forward. Remove bolts holding rear seat cushion to floor. Remove rear seat cushion.
2. Pull carpet back to reveal access covers above body mount bolts. Remove access covers.
3. Loosen, but DO NOT remove, cab mounting bolts on driver side.

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