Install OEM HID Lights in your Mustang
Be aware that this does not replace factory instructions or manuals for service work, but is a free *how-to* following the basic steps that were done on our own in-house car to make the 2008+ factory HID headlamps work on our 2005 GT that originally was not equipped with these headlights. It is worth what you’re paying for it! These instructions may or may not work on your vehicle, and we are not responsible for any damage or problems that may arise when you attempt this modification on your own vehicle.
A factory shop manual should be available for reference during installation. If, after reading these and any accompanying directions, you feel that you may not be able to complete the installation safely and properly, please seek out professional installation by certified technicians. Vehicle should be off with key removed from ignition and in park with parking brake set prior to beginning installation.
With all that said, let’s get started!
Difficulty/ knowledge level to complete 3.5 (1=easy, 5=hard)
• Source the following:
o OEM HID Headlights from 2008-newer Mustang or from Ford directly
o OEM HID Harness from 2008-newer Mustang (P.N. 8R3Z-14290-GA)
o (1) two-pack of rectifier diodes from Radio Shack P.N. 276-1141
o Approx 4” of #14-18 wire
o Soldering Gun – solder all connections
o Solder
o Heat Shrink tubing (small) or electrical tape
• Disconnect Battery
• Remove front bumper
• Remove OEM Headlights
• Remove OEM Headlight Harness from the fuse box – temporarily removing the other 3 main connectors and the (+) terminal will make life a lot easier.
• Take new harness, uncap the cover that hides all the wires going into the main fuse module – this is light grey in color
• Remove the two green strips that hold all the pins in place.
• Using a small pick to open the locking tab, move wire on pin 9A (blue w/light green stripe) to pin 8D – this will energize the second low-beam relay
• Jump 2A (low beam light green w/white stripe) to F7 (high yellow w/white stripe) with one rectifier diode, making sure that power is only allowed to go in the direction from the high beam wire to the low beam, not vise-versa. (ring on diode facing the low beam) If this is backwards, you will know because your headlights will be stuck in the high-beam shutter mode, and flash to pass and low beams will not function. A piece of jumper wire will be required here as the diode is not long enough, and it will need to be heat-shrunk to avoid the possibility of shorting to another wire. Be careful to not overheat the diode, it absorbs heat rapidly from the soldering gun – a heat sink (needle nose pliers) can help here to hold everything and keep the diode from overheating
• Jump A6 (low beam white wire) to F6 (high beam purple w/yellow stripe) with the other rectifier diode, again following cautions above.
• Reassemble junction-box end of harness and install harness in place of original.
• Install new headlights, connect to harness
• Temporarily plug in battery to test for proper operation
• If everything checks out (low beam, high beam, flash to pass), complete reassembly of car as normal – drill and mount relay pack to passenger side strut tower or inner frame area where convenient. Be sure to align headlights so as to not blind oncoming drivers.
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