1983-1988 T-Bird MM Caster/Camber Plates
Thank you for purchasing Maximum Motorsports’ Caster/ Camber Plates. Our Caster/Camber Plates are designed to maximize the performance of your T-Bird’s front suspension. You will find many features that set our Caster/Camber Plates apart from the rest:
• The widest range of camber adjustment in the industry: Side-to-side reversible main plates double the camber adjustment with the underhood space limitations for camber slot length.
• Lifetime guaranteed high grade Teflon lined spherical bearings are used at the strut top mounting point. Urethane bushings do not provide positive location, and induce bending loads on the strut that reduce the strut’s lifespan and may even break the strut shaft.
• The main plates are spaced well above the strut tower, to restore bump travel for lowered cars.
• High grade alloy steel allows our plates to be thin and fatigue proof. Aluminum plates must be very thick and will un-necessarily reduce bump travel and hood clearance.
• Lifetime warranty against main plate bending.
IMPORTANT: The bearing used in our Caster/Camber Plates is swaged together with Teflon® in between the race and ball. This provides a very tight tolerance fit that prevents dirt from entering the bearing. The Teflon® reduces friction and minimizes wear over the lifespan of the bearing. The tight tolerances will not allow easy movement of the bearing center by hand. If the center of the bearing must be rotated, use the strut shaft as a lever to facilitate movement. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO LUBRICATE THE BEARING. Any oil or grease will attract dirt and damage the Teflon®, voiding your warranty.
1. Before dismantling anything on your car, lay a straight edge across the fenders and measure down to the top of the strut shaft. Record this dimension, you will need it later.
2. Jack up the front of the vehicle and place firmly on jack stands.
3. Remove the front wheels.
4. On the passenger side of the car, place a floor jack under the control arm and jack up until slightly loaded.
5. If equipped with electronic ride control, unplug the wires and remove the adjusting mechanism. MM Caster/Camber Plates are not compatible with the adjusting mechanism.
6. Remove the strut top nut. Save the strut top nut, it will be used later. Note: It may be easier to initially loosen the nut with air tools.
7. Remove the three nuts/bolts that hold the factory strut mount in place. If present, drill and remove the pop rivet that retains the top mounting plate. Discard the top mounting plate.
8. Carefully lower the jack to bring the strut shaft down through the strut tower center hole, but do not completely unload the jack: the spring may become dislodged, causing injury and/or damage.
9. From the top of the strut tower, remove and discard the thrust washer, the top rubber bushing and the crush sleeves from the strut shaft.
10. Collapse the strut shaft down into the strut body far enough to remove the factory bottom plate and the dust boot. Discard the factory bottom plate. Save the dust boot.
11. Relax the strut shaft. Through the strut tower center hole, remove and discard the OEM bumpstop from the strut shaft.
12. Cut and remove the steel band clamp securing the plastic dust boot tube to the molded rubber/steel top mount. Seperate the dust boot tube from the rubber/ steel top mount. Discard the rubber/steel top mount, but save the dust boot tube.
13. Slip the dust boot tube back over the strut body. Lubricate the MM urethane bumpstop and slide it over the strut shaft with the conical portion facing upward. It is easiest to attach the bumpstop and the dust boot to one another later in the installation.
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