Auto Manual Resource: August 2009

Ford F-150 Bed Extender Bracket Installation

F-150 QUICK LATCH MOUNTING BRACKET INSTRUCTIONS
Step 1. Remove contents from box and check for damage. Verify all parts against parts list. Read and understand instructions completely before installation.
Step 2. Assemble brackets as shown in Figure 1.
Step 3. With lever towards the tailgate side insert lower hold-down bracket through lower hole on d-pillar.
Step 4. Insert upper hold-down bracket in upper hole of d-pillar.
Step 5. Tighten bolts until approximately ½ of thread is left.
Step 6. Center tabs on upper hold-down bracket in hole on d-pillar and tighten bolt while pulling outward to hold tabs in place.
Step 7. Repeat for lower mounting bracket.
Step 8. Check for interference with tailgate closed (Lever should be within 1/8 to 3/8 of tailgate).
Step 9. Torque bolts to 90 in-lbs (7.5 ft-lbs).
Step 10. Repeat steps 3-9 for other side.
Step 11. Slide Bed Extender into brackets until it locks into place.
Step 12. To remove extender either pull lever and pull upward on extender or rotate the extender 90° and then pull up on extender.

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1989-2006 Ford Crown Victoria 40F-15-R-KIT Full Air Suspension Replacement

Removal and Installation
-Do not remove an air spring under any circumstances when there is pressure in the air spring. Do not remove any components supporting an air spring without either exhausting the air or providing support for the air spring to prevent vehicle damage or personal injury.
- Disconnecting an air line that is connected to the air compressor can cause personal injury or damage to components as high pressure air is vented uncontrolled.
- Do not attempt to install or inate any rear air spring that has become unfolded to prevent vehicle damage or personal injury.
- Failure to observe the following procedures may result in a sudden failure of the air spring or suspension system.
- Any rear spring which is unfolded must be refolded prior to being installed in a vehicle.
- The air spring refolding procedure should only be used for an air spring which has never supported the vehicle’s weight while in the improperly folded position.
- Improperly folded air springs found on vehicles during pre-delivery inspection or after use must be replaced.
- Do not attempt to inate any air spring which has been collapsed while uninated from the rebound hanging position to the jounce stop.
- When installing a new air spring, care must be taken not to apply a load to the suspension until springs have been inated using the air spring ll procedure.
- After inating an air spring in the hanging position, it must be inspected for proper shape.

Get pdf 1989-2006 Ford Crown Victoria 40F-15-R-KIT Full Air Suspension Replacement

91-95 Ford F-250/350 7.5L PowerAid Throttle Body Spacer Installation Instructions

Installation Instructions. Read Me!
1. DISCONNECT NEGATIVE (-) BATTERY CABLE.
2. Remove throttle body intake assembly.
3. Remove (2) bolts & save from linkage bracket. (Ref. C)
4. Remove (4) bolts from the throttle body. (Ref. D)
5. Remove gasket and clean surfaces.
6. Install power plate using (2) gaskets. (Ref. A)
A. Place one gasket between the throttle body and power plate.
B. Place second gasket between the power plate and manifold.
7. Replace (4) bolts using Step 4 as an example.
8. Locate and install (2) linkage plates using (2) flat head screws. (Ref. C)
9. Reinstall linkage bracket using saved bolts. Refer to Step 3
10. Inspect & Test the throttle linkage for full open & closed travel before driving. Some cruise or kickdown cables may require adjustment. Please refer to your vehicles service manual for proper adjustment.
11. Reinstall throttle body intake assembly using Step 2 as an example.
12. Reconnect battery cable. Enjoy.

Get pdf 91-95 Ford F-250/350 7.5L PowerAid Throttle Body Spacer Installation Instructions

2” Lift System for 1999 and newer Ford F-250 / 350 Super Duty 4WD Pickup

Installation requires a professional mechanic. Prior to beginning, check all suspension-to-frame attaching points for stress cracks. The overall vehicle must be in excellent working condition; repair or replace all worn parts. Read instructions several times before starting. Be sure you have all needed parts and know where they install. Read each step completely as you go.

NOTES:
• Ford made a mid-year production change to the front U-bolts in 1999. Vehicles with a production date prior 2-28-99 utilize square front U-bolts, while vehicles manufactured on or after 3-1-99 may utilize square U-bolts or large-radius U-bolts. Kit box #9625 includes the square U-bolts, while kit box #9626 includes both U-bolt styles. Verify the correct front U-bolts are supplied prior to beginning installation.
• The rear lift is sold separately and includes separate installation instructions.
• Save all factory mounting hardware for reuse, unless otherwise noted.
• A factory service manual must be on hand. The manual will contain fastener torque specifications, assembly techniques, and / or special tool requirements that are unique to this particular year and model vehicle.
• Do not add or fabricate any components to gain additional suspension height.
• Prior to attaching components, be sure all surfaces are free of grit, grease, undercoating, etc.
• A torque specification in foot-pounds is shown in parenthesis “( )” after each fastener.
• Use the check off box found at each step to help you keep your place. Two denotes that one box is for the driver side and one is for the passenger side.

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Ford 302 HO Hydraulic Roller Lifter Kit

This kit is designed to allow the installation of hydraulic roller cams in standard Ford 302 HO V8 engines originally equipped with hydraulic roller cams. In order to use this kit, your engine must have two bosses cast into the block (fig. 1) in the lifter valley area. These bosses may or may not be drilled and tapped for 1⁄4″-20 bolts. If yours are not drilled and tapped, then you must be prepared to do so during this installation process. Once you have installed your COMP Cams® Magnum Hydraulic Roller Camshaft per the camshaft installation and degreeing instructions supplied with the cam, you are ready to install the hydraulic roller lifters.

Installation Instructions:
1. Installing the lifters - Slide the lifters into the lifter bores just like a regular lifter, and then rotate them until the flat surfaces on the sides of each lifter all face inward toward the lifter valley. Each lifter has two flats, one on each side. It does not matter which flat faces the valley and which faces the cylinders. You may encounter some difficulty in trying to install the end lifters in each bank due to interference from an ear on each end of the head gaskets. Gently bend this ear out of the way, install the lifters, and bend the ear back into place. The purpose of this ear is to help locate the intake gasket during manifold assembly, so do not bend or remove it permanently.
2. Installing the lifter guides - The purpose of the guides is to prevent the lifters from rotating, therefore keeping the lifter wheels rolling over the cam lobes as opposed to sliding. With all the flats on the lifter in line, install one of the eight lifter guides over each pair of lifters in the valley. They should be installed with the word “UP” that is stamped into each guide facing up. It does not matter whether the “UP” stamp is toward the front or the rear of the block. The forks on each end of the guides should nest over the top of the flats on either side of each lifter.

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Stake Pocket Rails Installation Instructions

Before installing any bed rail on any vehicle, you must insure there is adequate clearance for the installation. Some vehicles do not have a protective “inner bed wall”, and rough treatment can result in a distortion created from within the truck bed. Daws Manufacturing Co. Inc. will not be liable for any installation damages created by the installation or installer. Prior planning and care are the installer’s responsibility.

1. Read and understand these instructions before beginning the installation.
2. Attach the adjustable feet to the rail making sure the beveled side of the foot matches the bevel of the flat head screws. You must use 2 screws per foot to keep the foot straight. Use the chart on the reverse side of these instructions to set the correct length or gently set the bed rails in position being careful not to scratch the truck. Use the plastic gaskets for protection. Adjust the flat feet so the mounting hole is centered over the stake pocket hole. Tighten the screws securely.
3. Look at the truck from both sides and the rear to be sure you are satisfied with the appearance. NOTE: Ford F150 ’97 to current and 2001 Tundra will need to have the stake pocket covers marked for hole location where the bolt will pass through. When you are satisfied with the rail position, mark the hole location on the stake pocket cover.
4. Place the button head bolt through the protective plastic washer, rail foot, and rail gasket (now is the time to install the ’97 Ford or 2001 Tundra stake pocket cover if necessary). Thread the proper locking bar onto the bolt, just a few threads deep. You will need to keep the locking bar loose at this time.
5. Carefully place the rail on the truck bed while inserting the locking bars into the stake pocket hole. The locking bars must fit under the lip of the stake pocket hole so when the bolt is tightened, they hold the rail to the top of the truck’s bedrail.
6. Refer to the warning note at the top of the page. The locking bars must not contact the outer fender wall of the vehicle, or they may create a distortion in the metal when tightened. To help prevent this from happening, tension can be applied to the locking bar by lifting up the bed rail while tightening the button head bolt. This tension must be held to prevent the locking bar from turning in the hole and contacting the outer skin of the fender.
7. Tighten the bolts enough to secure the rail to the truck without unnecessary torque. Excessive tightening on the button head bolts can distort the fender top.

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Street Avenger Carburetor Installation, Tuning and Adjustment Manual

If you are using this carburetor with a GM overdrive transmission TH700R4 or a TH200R4, you must use a transmission kickdown cable bracket (Holley P/N 20-95) and stud (Holley P/N 20-2, 20-38, or 20-40). Otherwise, SEVERE transmission damage WILL result. This carburetor is not designed to work with ANY other automatic overdrive transmissions.

These carburetors have been designed and calibrated as a universal replacement carburetor for passenger cars and light truck applications equipped with V-6 and V-8 engines. It is designed for use on “square” flange intake manifolds. Carburetor adapters are not recommended to adapt to “spread” bore intake manifolds, since adapters may have an adverse affect on cylinder-to-cylinder distribution and ultimately, total engine performance. However, some manifolds may be universal (such as Weiand 8004). Please check with Holley’s Avenger Technical Service Department if you have any questions.

REMOVAL:
1. Remove the air cleaner, exercising care to carefully detach any vacuum lines to the air cleaner and marking them so they can be reassembled to the air cleaner in the same manner.
2. Remove the existing carburetor by the following procedure:
A. Carefully disconnect the fuel line.
WARNING: Carefully protect the open end of the fuel lines, so that no foreign particles can enter. Wrap the end of the fuel line with a clean lint-free cloth.
B. Disconnect and mark all the vacuum lines to the carburetor.
C. Disconnect the PCV hose.
D. Disconnect the choke rod or heat tubes (if equipped).
E. Disconnect and remove the throttle linkage and automatic kickdown linkage. SAVE ALL RETAINING CLIPS.
F. Unbolt and remove the carburetor from the manifold.
3. If the intake manifold is being changed at this time, install the new manifold according to the manifold’s manufacturer’s directions. Since we are not familiar with all manifold instructions, Holley cannot accept responsibility for their validity. We recommend that you only use Holley Street Avenger manifolds, which you can find in the Street Avenger catalog included with your kit.

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Auburn Gear Differential Disassembly / Assembly Instructions

These instructions are intended as an aid for the experienced automobile mechanic in properly servicing the Auburn Gear Limited-Slip differential. It is expected that the mechanic be equipped with the proper tools, equipment, and experience before attempting to service the differential. Differential removal will be required for most maintenance operations. Refer to the vehicle service manual for differential removal and installation procedures.

INTEGRAL CARRIER AXLES
A. Differential Cross-pin
1. Remove axle housing cover to expose differential.
2. Remove the differential cross-pin lock screw and remove pin. See Fig. 1. The differential cross-pin may need to be driven out. Use a hammer and a brass drift to drive the differential cross-pin out
3. Install new cross-pin and torque new lock screw to 25 lb-ft.
4. Install axle housing cover.
5. Fill axle with the recommended axle lubricant for use with limited-slip differentials level with the filler hole.
NOTE: Some gear ratios require a flatted cross-pin. Replacing the cross-pin in this application will require differential removal and ring gear removal as well as modifying the new cross-pin.
B. Differential Disassembly Procedure
CAUTION: Do not attempt to remove the end cap of the differential. All servicing will be done through the large window of the differential case.
1. Remove differential from axle housing (refer to vehicle service manual).
2. Remove and discard ring gear screws.
3. Using a non-metallic hammer or brass drift punch, drive the ring gear loose from the differential case pilot and remove.

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99-03 Ford 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel S6200AL Installer SERIES

Hardware kit sold separately, contact your local dealer/distributor for further information.
Removal of stock system:
Remove nut, with 15mm wrench or socket, from band clamp in front of muffler.
Remove rear exhaust from rubber hangers, remove bottom shock bolt at rear of truck &
separate the stock exhaust at the slip joint at the muffler.
Remove the muffler and tail pipe from under the truck, re-install the bottom shock bolt.
Remove extension pipe at flange using 15mm deep socket.
Remove down pipe, under the hood remove band clamp with 11mm at turbo then cut pipe in front of transmission cross member to remove.

(Note: The stock down-pipe can be removed in one piece by removing the transmission cross member, MBRP Inc. recommends that this procedure be only be done by qualified trained professionals using tools and equipment designed to safely carry out this process.)

Installation of MBRP Inc. Performance Exhaust:
Install down-pipe, flare side to turbo using stock band clamp. Do not fully tighten until all components are in place. Install the Mid-pipe using the pre-welded hanger into the OEM rubber hanger located on the frame. Install extension pipe over the down-pipe, included is an 34″ extension to accommodate each wheelbase. (Installation tip: Temporarily hang the muffler and tail pipe in place using the two OEM rubber hangers and measure to the mid-pipe to determine the length needed, cut if necessary)
Install muffler over the extension(s), the muffler core can flow either direction. If you install the core with the spiral openings towards the flow it will be quieter out the tailpipe and approx ½ db louder inside the cab. If you install the muffler with the core opening facing the rear of the truck it will be approx. ½ db quieter inside the cab and allow the sound to exit out the tailpipe.

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GM Power Steering Conversion Mid Fifty F-100 Instructions

KIT FITS: 1950 - 1964 ½ and ¾ ton Ford pickups and panels F-1, F-100, F-150. These instructions covers Drop Axle Kit as well but steering link and both tie rods are different. KIT INCLUDES: Plates for each side of frame rail with tubes pre-welded and pre-drilled for steering box mounting, seamless heavy wall tubing tie rod and steering drag link, 2 right and 1 left tie rod end, and a machined steering link (double tie rod end) *

ADDITIONAL PARTS YOU MAY NEED:
A 1965 to 1980 GM passenger car Saginaw power steering box. Can be front or rear steer, but look for one with 4 turns lock to lock and avoid Camaro-Firebird type, too quick for truck. The more turns lock to lock the better the handling, remember this is a heavy truck and most weight is forward.
A power steering pump with brackets that mount to your engine.
All necessary lines and hoses.
A pitman arm,* NOTE: Get the shortest pitman arm possible 5″ to 5 ½ ” ,center to center of holes. Try the larger GM 70’s cars such as Buicks and Station Wagons, 1978 Monte Carlo.
”Front of frame at bumper. Use short Pitman Arm 5” to 5 1/2” center to center is best. (1978 Monte Carlo) or heaver cars like Buicks or Station Wagons. Drag link should be as close to horizontal as possible at ride height.

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2005-2009 Ford F-250 Super Duty 4WD w/o Camper Package Installation Instructions

ReadyLift Suspension Inc. recommends this system be installed by a professional technician. In addition to these instructions, professional knowledge of disassembly/ reassembly procedures and post installation checks must be known.

PRODUCT SAFETY WARNING: Modifying your vehicle ride height may result in the vehicle handling differently than a factory equipped vehicle. Extreme care must be used to prevent loss of control or vehicle rollover. Failure to drive your modified vehicle safely may result in serious injury or death. ReadyLift Suspension Inc. does not recommend the combined use of suspension lifts, body lifts, or other lifting devices. You should never operate your modified vehicle under the influence of alcohol or drugs. Always drive your modified vehicle at reduced speeds to ensure your ability to control your vehicle under all driving conditions. Always wear your seat belt.

Pre-Installation Notes
1. Special literature required: OE Service Manual for model/year of vehicle. Refer to manual for proper disassembly/reassembly procedures of OE and related components.
2. Adhere to recommendations when replacement fasteners, retainers and keepers are called out in the OE manual.
3. Larger rim and tire combinations may increase leverage on suspension, steering, and related components. When selecting combinations larger than OE, consider the additional stress you could be inducing on the OE and related components.
4. Post suspension system vehicles may experience drive line vibrations. Angles may require tuning, slider on shaft may require replacement, shafts may need to be lengthened or trued, and U-joints may need to be replaced.
5. Secure and properly block vehicle prior to installation of ReadyLift Suspension Inc. components. Always wear safety glasses when using power tools.
6. If installation is to be performed without a hoist, ReadyLift aSuspension Inc. recommends rear alterations first.
7. Due to payload options and initial ride height variances, the amount of lift is a base figure. Final ride height dimensions may vary in accordance to original vehicle attitude. Always measure the attitude prior to beginning installation.

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Ford EEC-V J3-8B Chip module Install Instructions

When working with static sensitive electronic parts, care must be taken to ensure the electronics are not damaged from static electricity discharge. You can wear a static strap grounded to the vehicles body as the safest way to guard against static discharge. Alternatively you can touch a raw metal (unpainted) part of the body to ground yourself and discharge any static buildup. Do this regularly to prevent static build up.

Try to handle the chip module on the edges. Avoid touching the pins.
When working on the ECU it is good practice to remove the negative lead from the battery before plugging in or removing the chip module.
If you have a security coded radio fitted, make sure you have the code before disconnecting the battery
#1) Start by removing the plastic kick panel on the passenger side foot well to expose the ECU.
#2) Remove the brace holding the ECU in place.
#3) Looking at the bottom of the ECU there is a black plastic cover, use a flat screwdriver and pry it off.
#4) Once removed, the contacts for the chip module are exposed. The contacts are coated with some type of silicon grease, this needs to be removed. Use the supplied swabs to remove grease.

After cleaning the contacts there will be some soft jel still left behind and it will need to be scraped off. Use a dull non metallic object to give the contacts a scraping, an icy pole stick is ideal. Use an up down motion as apposed to side to side for best results. Give the contacts one final wipe to remove any residue left behind. It may be easier to remove the ECU from the car for the purpose of cleaning the contacts. Use a 10mm socket or spanner to un do the bolt on top of the connector, the plug will come out with the bolt.
NOTE: It is very important that the contacts are well cleaned. If the module is not able to make proper contact it won’t function correctly or wont function at all. You don’t want the car to cut out while driving!

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1997-2000 F250 Light Duty Pickup Bracketron Phone Mount Installation Instructions

When installing in a vehicle with an Auto Climate Control you will not be drilling or using the included screws. See step (3). When re-installing the auto climate control unit in the cavity you will need to apply some downward pressure on the unit so the centering pins and four factory screw holes will line up. Install the four (4) screws that secure the auto climate control then tighten. The mount will be nice and tight.

Grasp the bezel that surrounds the radio and climate control in the upper right corner and carefully pull toward you to release the first of five (5) clips that secure the bezel in place. Continue working the bezel loose releasing the remaining four (4) clips, two (2) on the left and two (2) on the right. When the bezel is loose, disconnect the wiring to the left of the climate control only. Let the rest of the bezel hang, or prop it out of the way to gain access to the radio and climate control.

Locate four (4) holes in the face of the radio. Insert the (Ford Radio Removal DIN Tools) into the holes and pull outward while at the same time pulling the radio out of its cavity. Disconnect the wiring too the radio and place the radio in a safe place. Locate and remove the four (4) screws that hold the climate control in place. Slide the climate control out of its cavity and prop it up to the right to keep all the wiring and vacuum lines out of the way.

Place the Bezel Mount in the cavity of the climate control. Make sure the hole on the Bezel Mount is aligned with the lower left screw hole that secures the climate control in place. In the two (2) remaining holes on the Bezel Mount, use the marking pen to mark two spots for drilling pilot holes. Remove the Bevel Mount and set it aside. Carefully drill two pilot holes with the 5/64” drill bit and drill. Place the Bezel Mount back into place, insert the provided screws and tighten with the #2 Phillips screwdriver. Place the climate control back into its cavity. Insert the four (4) holes that secure it in place and tighten.

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OmniTrac Brake Control Installation Guide

Drilling or use of longer screws may damage unit.
1. Securely mount bracket to a solid surface.
2. Insert supplied #6 x 3/8″screws on each side into the mounting holes.
3. Adjust control to desired position and tighten screws until snug.
4. Once the brake control is securely mounted, point the Internal Sensor Adjustment Arm down to the ground.

The Brake Control must be mounted from 20 degrees nose down to 70 degrees nose up.

Setting Up the Brake Control
The brake control has independent soft and hard effort brake settings.
• Soft Effort – setting for gradual stops, which allows for effective braking without the wheel “hop”
• Hard Effort – setting for hard or panic stop, which is sensed by the Internal
Sensor and braking effort is automatically switched over to the Hard Effort Setting.

Setting the Internal Sensor Arm
Once the brake control is securely mounted, the internal sensor adjustment arm must be pointed directly toward the floor of the vehicle. To Fine Tune the sensor, the arm can be moved to change the switching level. This needs to be done after the soft and hard effort levels are set.

Setting the “Hard” Effort
Adjustment
1. Connect trailer to tow vehicle.
2. Set HARD adjustment slide to mid-position.
3. Tow trailer at low speed (20-30 mph) on a level, dry and paved surface and apply Manual Slide Knob.
- If trailer brakes DO NOT lock up:
- Increase HARD braking effort by sliding HARD adjustment to the right.
- If brakes DO lock up:
- Decrease HARD braking effort by sliding HARD adjustment to the left.
4. Repeat step (3) until HARD braking effort has been set to a point just below wheel lock up or at a sufficient force as to achieve maximum braking power.

Get pdf OmniTrac Brake Control Installation Guide

Ford Falcon Hard Tonneau Cover Fitting Instructions

This product should be fitted by experienced people.
Be sure you read fitting instructions carefully and completely before fitting ute lid to vehicle.
1. Remove all packaging from ute lid.
2. With assistance - carefully place ute lid onto ute tub body, ensuring lid is sitting correctly with even gaps all around.
3. At the front of the lid, mark a line onto the tub liner on each side of both lid hinges.
4. Remove ute lid from vehicle.
5. Place the slotted hinges (1) flush with the body- between the lines you marked (2) and attach both hinges to body using self drilling screws supplied.
6. On the top inside edge of tub, measure 880mm back, then 60mm down and mark position. This mark is the position for the ball on the strut bracket. Attach gas strut bracket with self drilling screws provided. Repeat for opposite side.
7. Attach thinner shaft end of struts onto strut brackets.
8. On the ute lid, attach strut brackets - using screws already fitted onto ute lid.
NOTE; strut brackets may be already attached
9. With assistance - carefully lift ute lid to almost vertical position and mate up hinge tongues on lid with hinge slots on body-sliding tongues into slots.
NOTE: ensure tongues are fully inserted into slots before lowering or damage will result.
Lower lid slightly and attach struts to strut brackets on lid.

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Ford Rotunda Approved SF99 Servo Bore Repair System: 5RW

1. Install the drill jig into the case by setting the jig into the servo. Retain the jig in the case with the servo’s snap-ring.
2. Drop the 9/16” guide into the jig. It doesn’t matter which one of the lands on the guide you use, as long as one of the lands is under the 3/8” Allen screw.
3. Ream out the bore using the 9/16” reamer, applying ample lubrication.* DO NOT REAM ABOVE 500 RPM.
4. Replace the 9/16” reamer guide with the 5/8” guide, and the 9/16” reamer with the 5/8” reamer.
5. Ream the bore out using the 5/8” reamer with ample lubrication.* Take care not to either push too hard on the reamer or turn the reamer faster than 500 RPM when reaming. Either one can overly enlarge the bore, causing a loose bushing.
6. Clean the case before proceeding to step number seven.
7. Apply Loctite® (preferably green #680) or equivalent to the bushing and drive the bushing in by hitting the driver until the bushing bottoms. The 5RW kit uses a smaller diameter installation tool identified by a groove cut in the handle.
8. After installing the bushing, using a 15/64” bit, drill a hole in the side of the bushing by following the holes in the case (use the appropriate picture to the left as a map).
9. Insert the provided sizing pin into the bore. It may be necessary to start the pin in the bushing with a rubber mallet. Once the pin is inside the bushing, use a punch to drive the pin all the way through the bushing. Repeat as necessary.

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Xcalibrator 2 User Instructions

How to use the Xcalibrator 2:
Plug the OBD-II connector into the port under the dash of the vehicle you wish to program. Some vehicles may have a panel that needs to be removed to access it. With the key off, use the up and down arrows to navigate through the main menu.

Vehicle Diagnostics
The Xcalibrator 2 can read and erase DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) on the LCD display. This feature will work on any Ford based OBD2 vehicle. The Xcalibrator 2 can also read the Strategy of the vehicle, This is very useful on vehicles that have been reflashed to a updated calibration. This feature can ensure your SCT dealer programs your vehicle with the newest release calibration.

Program Vehicle Menu:
First disconnect the fuel pump and electric fan fuses. From the main menu, scroll down to the Program vehicle menu and press select. Here you select what file type you want to install into the vehicle, Custom Tune or Return to Stock. In the Custom Tune menu, use the up and down arrow keys to select the file you want to program onto your vehicle. With that file displayed, press the select button to start the flashing process.

Turn the key on when prompted on the LCD display.
If there are user adjustable options available for that file, the display will read Enter Opt Parms? (Enter Option Parameters) which will allow you to make minor changes to the file. Press the Cancel button to skip the custom options and go straight to the flashing process.

User Adjustable Options: Press the Select button to enable custom tune options. Using the up and down arrows navigate through the selectable options. Press the select button to make a change to that category. Press select when finished with that category to choose the next category. Repeat until finished. Once you have made all of your changes press the Cancel button to start the flashing process. Once the flashing process is complete, the display will display “Program Complete, Press Select” followed by “Turn key off, Press Select” Turn the key off and press select. Your vehicle is now programmed and you can unplug the Xcalibrator 2.

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Installation Voltage Regulators Instructions

You have bought a quality voltage regulator. This unit is engineered and built to give you maximum service when properly installed. The fact that you are replacing the voltage regulator indicates the possibility that some trouble may exist in the electrical system that caused the old regulator to fail. To avoid damaging the new regulator follow these instructions carefully.

IF CHARGING RATE IS LOW OR NO CHARGE AT ALL,
MAKE THESE TESTS:
1. Check battery water and general battery conditions to see if it will take and hold a charge. Check for specific gravity of 1.240 to 1.290 and make load test with a cell tester.
2. Check wiring for damage. Make sure all wiring connections at generator, regulator and battery are tight and free from corrosion.
3. Check fan belt for tension. Set to vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.
4. Run motor at medium speed, using a wire to touch one end to regulator base and other end to a good ground. If generator now charges, regulator is not properly grounded.
5. If, after the preceding test, the generator still does not charge, run the engine at medium speed and make the following tests illustrated.
FORD REGULATORS ONLY:
Connect a piece of number 10 or larger copper wire between the ARM terminal and the BAT terminal. Touch one end of another piece of wire to the FLD terminal and the other end to the ARM terminal. If the generator now charges, replace the regulator. If the generator does not charge, the trouble is in the generator.

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Ford Ranger Rear Stabilizer Bar Installation Instructions

Before beginning installation be sure to set the parking brake and chock the wheels.
NOTE:
To ease installation and properly adjust the bar, the weight of the vehicle must be on the suspension as if driving down the road. Do not raise the vehicle by the frame.
1. Lubricate the D-bushings and place them onto the straight areas of the bar on each side of the center hump as shown in the photos.
2. Hold bar up to the axle and locate the position on the axle tubes to mount the u-bolts. Be sure to put the U-Bolts Under Any Brake Lines, Wires or Hoses on the Axle to Avoid Any Possible Damage. The threads of the U-Bolts will point down.
3. Place saddle brackets onto the U-Bolts on the axle tubes. Place the U-Plates over the D shaped bushings on the bar and attach the bar to the U-Bolts and saddle brackets with the flat washers and nuts provided. LEAVE LOOSE AT THIS TIME to allow for adjustment later.
4. Adjust sway bar so that the end links are parallel with the ground and center the bar side to side. Chose the spacer tube and bolt that best fits the vehicle and assemble end links to frame bracket as shown in photos using 4 bushings and 4 washers per end link. Ensure that the end links are installed square to the mounting brackets and the ends of the sway bar.
5. Attach frame bracket to frame rail using the 1/2” X 1-1/2” bolt and 1/2” locknut. Install bolt with the large diameter flat washer mounted to the inside of the frame rail.
6. Tighten nut on end link until the bushings start to bulge slightly.
7. Adjust sway bar on axle so that there is at least 1/2” clearance between the bar and the axle. Ensure adequate clearance between the sway bar and all shock absorbers, brake lines, hoses, cables and electrical connections. When all clearances are confirmed, tighten U-bolts to 45-50 ft-lb. Double nut and tighten.
8. Bounce vehicle and check for clearance on all undercarriage components. Recheck installation, look for clearance on gas lines, exhaust pipes, brake lines, wiring, etc.
9. Drive vehicle for a few miles, then recheck for position and tightness, readjust and retorque as needed. Then recheck periodically thereafter.

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2005-07 Ford Mustang GT 4.6LV-8 Airaid Installation Instructions

1. Disconnect negative battery cable. PLEASE READ #22 ON THE BACK PAGE!! Push the green plastic tabs, and remove breather hose from vehicle. (Save for later use).
2. Loosen the intake tube hose clamp on the throttle body. Slide the red tab on the electrical connector, and disconnect the mass air sensor.
3. With a 10mm socket, remove the bolt holding the factory airbox to the fender, and save it for re-installation in step #8.
4. Remove the complete factory intake. Use caution to retain the factory grommets in the inner fender.
5. Using the provided #20 torx bit, remove two screws and the mass air sensor from the factory airbox lid. Note the direction of the sensor for proper re-installation later. (Save the mass air sensor for re-installation in step #13, the factory screws will not be re-used).
6. With a 10mm socket, remove and save the bolt from the anti-lock brake bracket. It will be re-installed later in step #9.
7. Install the provided grommet (#16), with the groove at the top, into the Cool Air Dam (CAD) hole, as shown. Next slide the aluminum sleeve (#17), into the center of the grommet.
8. Install the air filter adapter (#6) into the Cool Air Dam (#7) as shown, using 3 button head bolts (#10) and ¼” flat washers (#11).
9. Install the CAD into the factory grommets in the inner fender, and re-install the bolts from steps #3 and #6
10. Install the hump hose (#5) on the filter adapter (#6), with two #64 hose clamps (#14). Tighten only the clamp next to the CAD.
11. Install the supplied grommet (#15) and aluminum fitting (#18) into the Airaid intake tube as shown.
12. Install the Modular Venturi Tube (MVT) (#3) into the Airaid Intake Tube (#2) as shown. Option: For additional air flow, delete the MVT. This requires custom computer programming. Engine damage will result without the use of custom tuning.

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Overdrive Manual Control Cable Assembly

The overdrive cable assembly must be cut to a specified length depending on the vehicle application. The chart at the top displays the correct cable casing lengths for specific Ford vehicles. Length of cable casing (From shoulder of threaded fitting to end of casing.) Allow 5″ of wire beyond trimmed casing The cable casing length is determined by the illustration above. It is recommended to allow an additional 5″ of wire to extend beyond the trimmed cable casing while the handle assembly is completely pushed in.

HOW TO CUT THE CABLE TO LENGTH ANS INSTALL THE OVERDRIVE CABLE RETAINING SLEEVE.
I. Mark the correct cable length then pull the wire back into the cable casing out of the way of the cutting procedure. Cut the cable casing by using a bench grinder and carefully grind through the coiled exterior. Push the wire back into position and cut it 5″ longer than casing.
Í. A crimping tool and an aluminum end sleeve are supplied In the kit. Place the crimping tool around the sleeve and slide the sleeve onto the cable. Note that the Inset shouldered end of the sleeve faces the handle assembly.
This Is what the overdrive cable end should look like once the aluminum sleeve has been crimped Into position. Notice that the end of the sleeve is flush with the trimmed cable casing. It is recommended that an additional 5″ of wire extend beyond the casing so that it may be trimmed to exact length once the assembly has been installed In the vehicle.
REMEMBER: Measure Twice, Cut Once.
■ Slide the sleeve onto the cable so that the end is flush with the end of the casing. Place the crimping tool and cable assembly into a vise as shown above. Compress the crimping tool until the sleeve is secured to the cable.

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1997-2002 Ford Expedition/Navigator Secure Idle Installation Instructions

“SECURE IDLE” is an ignition switch bypass device designed to provide all the electrical functions that the OEM ignition switch normally provides. For proper operation and long term performance, do not deviate from the wire connection instruction. For each wire connection, remove approximately one half inch of insulation from the OEM wire, but DO NOT cut the wire into. Cutting the wires causes high resistance and a possible failure point. Strip app. one half inch of insulation from the end of the “SECURE IDLE” wires to be attached to the OEM wires. Wrap the “SECURE IDLE” wire around the bare area of the OEM wire and solder the connection. Tape the connection thoroughly after it cools.

DO NOT use “Scotch Lock” type pinch thru connectors. These connectors cannot handle the higher amperages of the ignition circuits, and will void the “SECURE IDLE” warranty. Use the attached wiring diagram to locate the correct wire and pin location.

INSTALLATION
1. Remove the lower dash panel under the steering column to access the OEM ignition switch which is mounted on the steering column. Mount the “SECURE IDLE” unit near the ignition switch.
2. Locate a good metal ground and connect the BLACK “SECURE IDLE” wire using the ring connector provided.
3. Locate the OEM ignition switch and wiring. Remove the insulation from the Gray/Yellow wire, Pin A4, Circuit 687, and attach the RED 14 Ga. “SECURE IDLE” wire according to the above instructions. This OEM wire will be hot in RUN ONLY.
4. Locate the DK.BLUE/LT.GREEN wire, Pin I 1, Circuit 964. Attach the WHITE 14 Ga. “SECURE IDLE” wire according to the instructions.

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S/R Cylinder Heads Iron 2.9L V6 Ford Specifications and Instructions

These heads are a direct 50 state legal replacement cylinder heads for 1986 to 1992 2.9 liter V6 Ford engines that use Ford cylinder head part number part number 6090CAJ.
CARB Exemption: This product is certified as 50 State Legal under E.O. # D-343. The included exemption sticker MUST by law be placed next to your vehicle’s emission sticker.

Before Final Assembly:
1. Please inspect castings for defects or damage prior to modification, assembly or installation. Cylinder heads that have been modified, installed or used ARE NOT RETURNABLE.
2. Refer to the factory service manual for proper torque specifications and assembly and disassembly procedures. Brackets and Accessories:
1. All accessory bolt holes on the World S/R 2.9 heads are 10 mm. Some factory brackets may have 8 mm bolt holes and will need to be enlarged to a 10 mm hole. The dimensions for the new bolts are as follows: Top Alternator bolt is 10 mm x 1.5 thread and 40 mm long. Bottom Alternator bolt is 10 mm x 1.5 thread and 65 mm long. A/c bolt is 10 mm x 1.5 thread and 30 mm long.
2. Consult the factory service manual for specific issues regarding thermostat replacement.

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Flyin’ Miata Fuel Rail Installation Instructions

Congratulations on purchasing the FM Fuel Rail! We’re confident that this is a high quality piece that will help ensure the safety and performance of the engine in your Miata. Following are instructions that will help you safely install this piece.

1. The fuel system first needs to have its pressure re- lieved. There are two ways to do this, it’s safest to do them both. First, find the relay that’s pictured to the side. It will be underneath the dash, near the steering column. It should look similar to the relay in the picture, but different years had different relays, so it might not be exactly the same. Look for a blue wire with a red stripe, that’s the wire that goes to the fuel pump. Start the car and let it idle. While the car is idling, unplug the relay. This will kill the engine, as it’s no longer being fed the fuel it needs. Turn the car off once the engine has stopped. The gas cap also needs to be removed, to ensure that pressure doesn’t build up in the tank. Don’t reinstall it until the fuel rail is in.
2. Disconnect the negative terminal for the battery. You’ll be working near the starter, and you don’t want to accidentally touch one of the stainless steel lines to the lead on the starter.
3. Remove both of the rubber fuel lines from the metal hard lines. Fuel will spill out from these lines, so try to have something to catch the spillage. These can be a pain to remove, try twisting the rubber line to break the adhesion between the rubber and metal lines. It’s also a good idea to try to drain as much as possible from the lines, this will make the rest of the mess smaller.
4. ‘99 - ‘05 cars only: The upper intake manifold needs to be removed. There are six bolts that need to be removed to allow the two pieces to separate. Be sure to remove any of the hoses and such that will prevent the top half from being lifted off. Make a note of where all of the lines go, so you’re sure to put them back in the right places. Once these have been removed, tilt the top half forward and out of the way. Be careful of the various lines going to the throttle body. While they can remain attached, you need to make sure that they don’t get kinked. Also put rags in the open holes, to ensure that nothing accidentally falls down there.

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1999-05 Ford F-250/F-350 ¾ & 1 Ton, S/D, S/B, L/B Under Bed Hitch Installation

Installation Instruction:
1. Carefully examine the location of fuel lines, brake lines and electrical wires before installation. Be certain you will not damage fuel lines, brake lines or electrical wires when positioning hitch components, drilling holes, tightening fasteners, and lifting and lowering the truck bed.
2. Read installation manual and installation drawing completely. Understand all components and parts before installation.
3. Hitch ball location: Two wheel Drive Short & Long Bed 49” 46” Four wheel Drive Short & Long Bed 49” 46” Ball location in front of axle 6-1/2” 3-1/2”
The front crossmember is able to accommodate either installation location by turning the angle end-for-end. The notches are made at two different depths; the shallower notches would sit on the frame for the 49 inch location and the deeper notches are used against the frame for the 46 inch location. The rear crossmember will work for both locations.
4. Measure the correct hole location in the truck bed floor. Measure from the back end (tail gate end) of the truck bed floor by hooking a tape measure over the end of the truck bed (not including the tail gate) and marking the floor at the correct measurement. Center the measurement between the fender wheel wells. This location is critical to the correct installation of this hitch, so measure, mark and saw carefully. If the truck has a plastic bed liner, you may drill through both. Make a 4-inch hole at this location using a four-inch hole saw, or a cutting tool.
5. Remove the heat shield located above the rear axle under the truck bed. Some newer trucks have adhesive heat shields installed on the under side of the bed floor and may not need to be removed.

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1965-1972 Full-Size Ford DB1512M Installation Instructions

Installation of any component or kit should only be performed by persons experienced in the installation and proper operation of disc brake systems. It is also the responsibility of the person installing any brake component or kit to determine the suitability of the component or kit for that particular application.
NOTE: Before operating the vehicle after installation test the function of the brakes under controlled conditions. Make several stops in a safe area from low speed and gradually work up to nor- mal speeds. DO NOT DRIVE WITH UNTESTED BRAKES! Always utilize safety restraints when operating the vehicle.

STEP 1:
1. Check to be sure that your kit has all the necessary parts needed to complete this project! (Use the supplied parts list as a check list.)

STEP 2:
Remove the following components from you car:
Tech tip: Prior to disassembly spray the nuts and bolts that will be removed with a penetrant.
1. If you are performing the installation with a jack, be sure that the parking brake is set and that the rear wheels are chocked. Support the front of the vehicle with jack stands. Never work on sloping ground.
2. If you are using a lift, raise the vehicle to a comfortable working height.
3. Remove the front tires.
4. At this point, be sure to place the proper support under the lower control arm. Failure to do so will allow the coil spring to blow out when spindle is removed, which could result in vehicle damage and possible serious injury or even death.
5. Next, disconnect the drum brake hoses from the hard line using the appropriate flare wrenches.
6. Detach the steering arm from the tie rod.
7. Now disconnect the ball joints from the spindle and remove the drum brake assembly as a unit.
8. Clean and inspect ball joints and tie rod ends for excessive wear or damage, replace at this time if necessary, in preparation for assembly.

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99-02 Ford Expedition/Navigator 4.6L- 5.4L 2/4WD Cat-Back Dual Sport Truck Exhaust Instruction Manual

Lay out the exhaust on the floor so it looks like the drawing and compare parts with manual. To remove the stock exhaust, un-clamp it just in front of the muffler. You may need to heat it up for easier removal. Leave all rubber grommets in place. Use WD-40 to aid in removal of exhaust and the hangers. Now cut off your stock tailpipe just behind the muffler

Install head pipe #A onto your existing stock front pipe and secure with clamp #H. Use a jack stand to support the converter. Do not tighten.
Install muffler #B onto head pipe 1 ½” to 2” with the louvers facing towards the converter. Use a jack stand to support the muffler. Use clamp #J to secure the muffler to the head pipe. Do not tighten. Outlets should be on the bottom.

Install rear mufflerT- hanger #K into rubber grommets located just above the muffler outlets. Shorter side of the hanger will be inserted on the passenger side grommet. Slide clamp onto passenger side muffler outlet. Do not Install the passenger side front tailpipe #E 1 ½” to 2” into muffler. Use clamp # H to secure front tailpipe to muffler, and attach hange # K. Do not tighten.
Install drivers side front tailpipe #C into muffler 1 ½” to 2”. Use clamp #H to secure front tailpipe to muffler. Do not tighten.

Install passenger side overaxle tailpipe #F onto front tailpipe using clamp #I to secure pipes together. Do not tighten. Slide welded hanger into rubber grommet Install drivers side overaxle tailpipe #D onto front tailpipe Use clamp #I to secure together. Do not tighten. Use bolt kit #L to secure pipes together. Tab on drivers’ side tailpipe will be on top.

Install the stainless steel tips. Clamp down. To clean your stainless tips, use a scotch brite pad and any stainless steel or aluminum cleaner. Now go back and tighten all clamps, nuts and bolts. Start from the front and work back.

Get pdf 99-02 Ford Expedition/Navigator 4.6L- 5.4L 2/4WD Cat-Back Dual Sport Truck Exhaust Instruction Manual

BMK-21 Single Mount By-Pass Filter System Installation and Servicing Instructions

This filter system is not designed to replace the engine’s normal full-flow filter. Do not attempt to install a by-pass filter element in place of the existing full-flow filter.
WARNING: Extreme care should be taken to avoid bodily harm during installation. Before starting, ensure the engine is cool to avoid burns and never work in the engine compartment area with the engine running.

Attaching the filter mount
1. Survey the engine compartment for possible mounting locations. Solid structures such as the firewall, fender well, radiator support or frame are normal locations. (Do not mount on engine.) Refer to diagram B for minimum area requirements and consider accessibility for servicing.
2. Refer to diagram A for preferred mounting positions.
3. When the location has been determined, use the mounting template provided to locate and mark mounting holes. This can be easily done with a center punch and hammer.
4. Install adapter fittings (BP-208) on filter mount (BK-303) using provided thread sealant as noted in diagram C. If desired, 90° angle fitting (BP-52) may also be used. Using a 7⁄16 wrench, tighten fittings 2-3 turns beyond finger tight. Keep in mind the direction you wish to have the hoses intersect the mount.
5. With a 5⁄16 drill bit, drill out the previously marked mounting holes and attach the mount using the 5⁄16 bolts, nuts, small washer and fender washers provided. Bolts should be tightened to 16-18 foot pounds. 1⁄2 wrenches or socket will be required for this operation.
6. Fill the By-Pass Filter element with the same motor oil being used in the vehicle. Lubricate the filter gasket with oil and spin filter onto mount. Tighten per instructions on the filter.

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Ford 5R110 Transmission Pan Installation Instructions

The TCI Automotive® deep aluminum pan is designed to fit the factory Ford 5R110 transmission as supplied as original equipment. However, in some applications, or because of the use of certain factory options and/or aftermarket equipment, there may be clearance problems between your TCI Automotive® pan and other vehicle components. It is the responsibility of the owner/installer to ensure that there is no contact between the pan and other moving, obstructing or fixed vehicle components. Contact with any vehicle component, or the modifying of the TCI Automotive® pan voids the warranty. TCI Automotive® assumes no liability, expressed or implied, for damage or injury to persons or property.

Installation:
1. Park your vehicle on level ground and apply the parking brake. Use jack stands if the vehicle must be raised.
2. Position a large drain pan under the transmission to catch the fluid. Also drain the torque converter.
3. Starting at the rear, remove the 20 existing pan bolts.
4. Using a gasket scraper, start at the rear of the pan and carefully (so as not to gouge the transmission case) insert between the existing pan and transmission housing and pry the old pan off.
5. Allow all of the old oil to drain.
6. Using a gasket scraper, carefully remove all of the old gasket material (dried silicone) from the transmission case.
7. Use clean lint free rags to clean the transmission case gasket surface. The surface must be clean and flat for the O-ring to seal.
8. Before installing the TCI Automotive® pan, check the gasket mating, surface on the transmission case for dents, irregularities, or gouges. Should any exist, carefully remove the high spots using a smooth flat file. BE CAREFUL NOT TO “ROUND OFF” THE FLAT GASKET SURFACE.

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2005-2008 Ford Mustang 4.0L V6 Installation Instructions

1. Start by disconnecting the wire harness from the MAF sensor as shown.
2. Next loosen the hose clamp on the stock air tube to the air box as shown.
3. Remove the stock air tube from the stock air box as shown.
4. Remove the bolt that holds the stock air box in place and set aside for reuse with the MAC system.
5. Remove the stock air box by pulling it straight up as shown.
6. Remove the two rubber grommets from the air box as shown and reinstall them into the stock location.
7.Using the T20 torques head supplied in the kit, remove the MAF sensor and set aside for reuse with the MAC air system.
8. Install the two support posts to the bottom of the MAC air chamber as shown. Note:The spacer will be mounted to the rear post.
9. Install the two brackets onto the MAC air chamber as shown.
Note:The “L” shaped bracket will be mounted to the out side of the air chamber.
10. Install the MAC air chamber into the stock location and bolt it in using the stock bolt and hardware provided as shown.
11. Install the MAF sensor to the MAC mass air meter using the hardware provided. Note Do Not use the stock hardware on the MAC mass air.
12. Place the rubber gasket onto the MAC mass air meter as shown
13. Install the MAC mass air meter through the air chamber to the velocity adaptor using the hardware provided

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Retrofit Hydraulic Roller Lifter Installation Instructions

These lifters are engineered and manufactured to provide optimum performance and reliability. In order to take full advantage of the product, proper installation is required. Please follow the instructions below to insure complete satisfaction.

Pre-installation Considerations
Since the valve train in a typical overhead valve engine contains numerous components which may or may not be matched, care must be taken to avoid potential issues which may affect the overall performance of the lifters and the engine. These considerations can be best described in two categories: Mechanical Interference and Valve Train Geometry.

Mechanical Interference - Mechanical interference can occur between the various components which may lead to engine damage and failure. These potential problem areas must be checked prior to final adjustment of the lifters and operation of the engine. The following is a list of areas to consider:
• Piston to valve clearance
• Rocker arm slot to stud clearance
• Rocker arm to valve spring retainer clearance
• Valve spring retainer to guide/seal clearance
• Valve spring coil bind height

Valve Train Geometry - Proper overall valve train geometry must be maintained in order to optimize valve motion. The following can affect the geometry of the valve train:
• Deck height of block
• Cylinder head heights
• Camshaft lobe base circle diameter
• Seat height in lifter
• Pushrod length
• Rocker arm configuration
• Valve length

The simplest way to achieve the correct geometry and compensate for un-matched parts in the valve train is by using proper pushrod length. Table 1 provides the lengths for the most common applications. If you are unsure of the required pushrod length, refer to the Pushrod Length Procedure, otherwise, proceed to Installation Procedure.

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2000-2003 Ford Super Crew Installation Instructions

The Bedlocker is designed to carry rainwater from the cover into the canister and then out through the drains. Most truck models have standard OE drain holes or plastic/rubber access ports in the front of the truck bed. Check to make sure your truck has the OE drain holes so that drilling into the sheet metal is not required. If drilling is necessary, be sure to check the underside of the truck bed for the best location. The holes should be located near the side and as far forward as possible. Use a drill bit suitable for sheet metal (such as a taper drill or step drill). Drill drain tube clearance holes at 3/4” (19mm). This will need to be done before installing the cover.

The BedLocker also offers an optional wire harness (part # BL1120) to manually operate the tonneau cover from inside the cab of your truck. This harness is designed to plug into the custom-built electronics control box. Simply run the wire to the cab and attach under the dash in a suitable location.

TEP 1: REMOVE CONTENTS & PLYWOOD PACKAGING
Remove the canister and top cover from the box. Remove components from inside the canister. Perform a quick inventory to insure all parts are there.

Using the wrench or socket remove the 2 bolts holding the plywood packaging supports on the ends of the canister. Discard plywood packaging supports and bolts. Locate the rail guide bolts in the hardware pack and install them in the two holes where the packaging bolts and plywood were just removed. Repeat on both ends of the canister.

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97-03 Ford F -150 Side Skirts

Installing the cab skirts: Remove any mud guards or stepping bars from the truck. Open the door on the truck and hold the cab side skirt in place. Secure the front part of the side skirt in the wheel well with the factory screw from the mud guard, then close the door and check to see that you have about a ¼” door gap between the bottom of the door and the side skirt. While holding the side skirt in place open the door and with a 1/8” drill bit, drill through the existing holes in the side skirt. Then secure the side skirt with the screws supplied in the hardware packet. While holding the rear portion of the cab side skirt in place drill a 1/8” hole through the side skirt and into the rocker panel and secure it with the screw supplied in the hardware packet as shown in fig.A. We have supplied you with two braces to secure the lower portion of the side skirt, install them evenly apart as shown in fig.B

Installing the bed skirts: Hold the bed skirt in place and secure it with a factory screw from inside the wheel well. While holding the bed skirt in place drill a 1/8” hole through the side skirt and into the bed and secure it with a screw supplied in the hardware packet as shown in fig.A

Installing the 2 sided tape: After the side skirt has been painted install the 2-sided tape along the guideline on the back side of the side skirt where it touches the truck as shown in fig.C. The surface temperature where the 2-sided tape is contacting must be a minimum of 70o F. Allow 2-sided tape to dry 24 hours before driving. 97-98 F-150 super cab trucks do not have a door on the drivers side, install the 2-sided tape along the upper portion of the guide line as shown in fig.D 99-03 F-150 super cab trucks, install the 2-sided tap along the lower portion of the guideline as shown in fig.E

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2003-2006 Ford 6.0L Excursion 4″ Alum Kit Installation Instructions

Removal of Original System
1) Start under the vehicle. Remove the band clamp that holds the stock system to the converter by loosening the bolt and gently prying the clamp loose. If the clamp will not release continue to next step. When you have the rest of the system off shake the pipe from underneath the vehicle this will break the seal and you will here the clamp release. Gently remove the clamp and save for the reinstallation.
2) Remove the band clamp that holds the stock system to the converter by loosening the bolt and prying the clamp loose. Do not cut when installing on longer models.
3) Cut the original system just behind the muffler.
4) Spray the stock hangers with aerosol lube and pry rubber mounts from the system. Leave the rubber mounts attached to the truck for re-use.
5) Remove the old system from the cat back.
6) Loosen the bolts that hold the converter to the stock down pipe. Remove the converter and keep for reinstall. You must reinstall the converter.
7) Remove the Stock down pipe. You may need to cut it or remove the transmission mount to get enough room. Stop and think before you do either of these a mistake at this time could be very costly.

Installation of New Performance System
(Do not fully tighten any clamps until the complete system is installed and aligned.)
1) From under the truck, install the down pipe with the stock clamp to the turbo. Tighten clamp so you still have some movement.
2) Install the down pipe extension with a clamp.
3) Reinstall the converter to the down pipe extension with a gasket (not pictured).
4) Hang the muffler in the stock location using the hanger clamp on the outlet. This determines the placement of the rest of the system.
5) Install the first tail pipe into the outlet of the muffler using the hanger clamp already installed. Rotate the pipe as needed to pass next to the shock absorber and over the rear axle.
6) Install the second tail pipe into the outlet of the first tail pipe with a clamp. Rotate as needed to level the outlet behind the rear tire. Attach the hanger clamp in the stock location.
7) Measure between the outlet of the converter and the inlet of the muffler. Add 5” to this measurement for the slip-joints and cut the intermediate pipe to fit. Install the cut pipe between the converter and the muffler with a clamp at front and a clamp on the muffler inlet. Install the hanger clamp in the stock location near the front of the intermediate pipe and install the hanger clamp in the stock location near the rear of the intermediate pipe.
8)Starting at the turbo, align and tighten all the pipes and clamps. Start the engine and check for leaks.

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1999-2004 Ford Lightning JLT BIG Air Intake Kit Installation Instructions

We hope you are satisfied with the look and performance. You may use any polish or wax on the pipe as it’s painted with the same high quality paint as your car. It is also recommended to use some tire shine on the rubber elbow. Take your time and it will be a smooth install. Please review complete instructions prior to installing.

Step#
1 Verify you have all of the following parts included in the kit: (1) JLT Painted Pipe with IAC, PVC, and Vacuum line fittings, (1) 45 degree Rubber Elbow w/ clamps to connect throttle body to JLT Pipe, (1) Silicone Reducer w/ clamps to connect JLT pipe to MAF, (1) JLT heat shield, (1) Billet MAF Adaptor with bolts, (1) 4×12” S&B Air Filter, (1) 5/8” Hose, (1) 3/4” Hose, (1) Vacuum Line, (1) Silicone Spacer (for use on early Lightnings with 80mm MAF only)
2 Gather all of the following tools needed for the installation: 5/16 Nut Driver, 10mm Open End Wrench, 11mm Open End Wrench, Phillips Head Screwdriver
3 Remove the factory Air Box Assembly from the Throttle Body to Air Box.
4 Remove the Mass Air Flow Sensor from the airbox and install the Billet MAF adaptor in the JLT kit.
5 Install the JLT heat shield onto the adaptor, rotating it in the direction you want to block engine heat.
Note: Keep the MAF in its stock rotation. Meaning, remember where the plug position was stock and return it to the same position.
6 Install the S&B filter at this time. Use pressure on the filter to “sandwich” the heat shield in position.
7 Install the 45 degree elbow onto the throttle body.

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2005-2008 Ford F350 4×4 Level Lift Installation Instructions

Step 1:
Position truck on a flat surface and block the rear wheels to keep it stable. Starting on the driver side remove the stock shock absorber and retain hardware.
Note: New longer front shocks will be needed for this installation. Level Lift™ recommends a shock that measures 23″ fully extended. ProComp* 924553 flirti ss
Step 2:
Continuing on the drivers’ side, remove the stock sway bar frame mount, retain the hardware for re-installation.
Step 3:
Next remove the stock brake line bracket from the bottom of the stock coil spring, keep the hardware for re-installation. For 05-08 F250 4×4 see addendum.
Step 4:
Scribe a mark on the lower coil spring plate as well as the coil spring. This is done to re-install the coil in the exact location. (Repeat Steps 1 thru 4 on passenger side of vehicle)
Step 5:
Place a pair of hydraulic jacks under the frame on both sides of vehicle. With a second persons help, raise the vehicle until the top of the coil springs are separated from the upper coil location. Keep raising jacks until coils can be removed

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05-06 FORD F-250/350 Cat Back Split Rear Exhaust Installation Instructions

When installing this exhaust system make sure to use proper safety precautions. Use jack stands when working under the vehicle, set parking brake, block tires and use safety glasses and gloves. Allow exhaust to cool before attempting installation. Severe injury or burns could occur if safety measures are not taken. Disconnect the negative battery cable before removal of OEM exhaust. This will allow the computer to reset and recognize the new exhaust. Lay out the exhaust on the floor so it looks like the drawing and compare parts with manual.

1. To remove the stock exhaust remove it from the clamp located in front of the stock muffler. Disengage the welded hangers using WD-40 from the OEM rubber grommets. Do not damage or remove the rubber grommets as you will re-use them to mountyour new system. Now, cut off tailpipe and remove exhaust.

2. Install head pipe #A onto your existing stock front pipe and attach with clamp #G. Use a jack stand to support the converter. Insert welded hanger into rubber grommet.

3. Install muffler #B onto head pipe #A 1½”-2” with the louvers facing towards the converter. Use a jack stand to support the muffler. Use clamp #G to secure the muffler to the headpipe. Do not tighten. Muffler inlet is looking into the louvers.

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1999-2003 Ford Super Duty 7.3L Powerstroke Installation Instructions

Removal of Stock System:
1. Loosen the nut on the band clamp located behind the catalytic converter using a 15mm wrench or socket.
2. If a hoist is being used for the installation, the original exhaust system can be removed in one piece by removing the passenger side shock. If a hoist is not being used the tail pipe must be cut behind the muffler to be removed.
3. Remove the muffler and tail pipe from the OEM rubber hangers and separate the stock exhaust at the slip joint located behind the catalytic converter and remove the muffler and tail pipe from under the truck. Re-install the passenger side shock.
4. Remove the catalytic converter by removing the two nuts holding the inlet flange together using a 15mm wrench or socket.
5. Remove the down pipe from the turbo by removing the band clamp using an 11mm socket. Retain the band clamp for the installation of the new down pipe. Cut the down pipe in front of the transmission cross member to remove. (Note: The stock down pipe can be removed in one piece by removing the transmission cross member. It is recommended that this only be done by qualified, trained professionals using tools and equipment designed to safely carry out this procedure.)

Installing Your Front Section of MBRPinc.
1. Install the Down Pipe in the same position as the stock down pipe and attach the flared end to the turbo using the stock band clamp. Do not fully tighten until all components are in place.
2. Loosely attach the Extension Pipe to the Down Pipe and place the hanger into the factory rubber insulator located on the frame. The Extension Pipe may need to be trimmed to mate up to the rear section of the “Smokers™”

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2004-2006 FORD F-150 4WD 4”-6” Suspension System Installation Instructions

Installation by a professional mechanic is recommended. Use of the appropriate tools, a Ford service manual, and a shop hoist can greatly reduce installation time. Prior to installation, carefully inspect the vehicle’s steering and drive train systems, paying close attention to the tie-rod ends, rack & pinion unit, ball joints and wheel bearing preload. Also check steering-to-frame and suspension-to-frame attachment points for stress cracks. The overall vehicle must be in excellent working condition; repair or replace worn parts.

• Read instructions carefully and study illustrations before attempting installation. RCD Suspension is not responsible for damage, failure or injury resulting from improper installation or parts substitution of this kit.
• Check parts and hardware against the parts list to assure that your kit is complete. Report any shortages to RCD Suspension at (1-619-588-4723). The parts and hardware supplied are of high-grade material and must not be replaced by inferior parts or failure may result. Do not begin installation if parts are missing.
• Separate parts according to the areas they will be used. Placing the hardware with brackets before you begin will save installation time.
• This kit is supplied as a bolt-on assembly. Do not weld anything to the components and do not weld the components to the vehicle.
• All components in this kit come with a protective coating. Do not plate (i.e. chrome, cadmium, zinc etc.) or otherwise alter the finish in any way. This could decrease the structural strength of the components.
• Secure and properly block vehicle prior to beginning installation.
• Always wear safety glasses when using power tools.
• Foot-Pound torque readings are listed on the Torque Specifications chart at the end of the instructions unless specifically stated in an instruction.

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1997-1998 FORD XLT & Lariat Models Only & F-150 & Light Duty F-250 Installation

1. Before beginning installation be sure to wear proper eye protection.
2. Remove the grille shell from the vehicle. Open the hood and remove the black ABS cover from grille to the radiator shroud. Remove the 8 phillips head screws on the retaining clips, lift cover up and remove the retaining clips.
3. Remove the turn signal / parking lamp assemblies by removing the 7MM head bolt at the inside corners behind each lamp. Grasp lamp and pull straight forward to remove. Lift the locking tabs on bulb socket and turn 1/4 turn CCW to remove.
4. Remove the 10 phillips head screws securing the grille shell. Six are located across the top edge of grille and two are located at each side behind the parking / turnsignal lamps.
5. On the F-150 4WD, and the Expedition 2WD and 4WD it will be necessary to remove the black filler beneath the grille shell and above the bumper, under each headlamp. With a flat blade screwdriver, pry down the retaining clips across the bottom of the grille and remove. On the F-150 2WD remove the two clips attaching the filler to fender at each side. NOTE: filler will be removed with grille shell.
6. Reach up throught the bumper opening to the underside of the grille. Depress the metal retainers located 12 inches right and left of center to release the grille from the panel.
7. Gently pull grille shell forward and remove.

INSTALLING THE SPEED GRILLE F-150 & F-250
1. Set the grille shell on a soft, covered, clean work bench or table. Remove the Ford emblem. NOTE: the emblem if desired may be installed in the center of the Speed Grille before installing into the grille shell.
2. Install the Speed Grille insert into the center opening of the grille shell. From the back side mark the location of the attaching clips at the triangular holes of the grille shell, to line up with the holes of the return edges of the Speed Grille insert. Grind or file a notch 3/16″ to 1/4″ deep on the edge.
3. Install clips so that the barbs inside the holes of the grille return edge. Install 6 clips across the top and
5 clips on the bottom. Install clips at each side of the top center, clips at each end and clips between. Install clips at bottom center, clips at each end and clips between. NOTE: Grind notches only deep enough for the barbs to reach holes for a tight grille insert fit.
4. Re-install grille shell on the vehicle with the original fasteners

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1960-1977 Ford/Mercury VariShock Bolt-In Front Coil-Over Conversion Installation and Tuning Guide

Remove Factory Shock and Spring
1. Raise front end of car and secure with jack stands. Wheels must not be in contact with ground.
2. Remove wheels, making note of which side of vehicle they were removed from.
3. Unbolt lower shock mount from spring perch.
4. Unbolt upper shock mount from shock tower.
5. Remove shock and mount from vehicle.
6. Using a spring compressor, remove the coil spring. Follow the tool manufacturer’s instructions for proper use of the spring compressor.
7. Unbolt lower spring perch from control arm.

Install Shock Tower Adapter (TCP COLVF-1X)
The shock tower adapter must be installed before proceeding. Refer to the installation guide packaged with your adapter kit. Depending upon the year and model of your vehicle, you will have received one of the following kits: TCP COLVF-13, TCP COLVF-14 (shown), or TCP COLVF-15. Shock Assembly - Lower Crossbar
8. On each urethane bushing put a small amount of poly lube on the area that will contact the inside of the lower shock eye.
9. Press two bushings into each shock eye, one from each side. Once completely seated apply poly lube to the inside bore of the bushings.
10. Thread the 1/2” set screws into two of the crossbar halves and then place an aluminum crush washer over the remaining set-screw stud.

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1996-2003 FORD 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel Vehicles Power Programmer III Installation Instructions

You are the owner of the Power Programmer III, the latest in high-performance tuning technology. Now you can optimize your engine’s tuning, as well as adjust other vehicle parameters (see table of contents), all at the touch of a button. Your vehicle has an onboard computer that controls the engine and transmission. Inside your vehicle’s computer is a FLASH memory chip which contains the vehicle’s programming. The programmer actually reprograms this FLASH computer chip, according to your specifications, with Hypertech’s Power Tuning. This is the only way an individual can reprogram some 1994-1995 and all 1996 and newer vehicles sold in the United States.

To reprogram your vehicle’s computer, simply plug the programmer cable into the vehicle’s diagnostic connector located under the dash panel on the driver’s side. Set the parking brake. Next, turn the ignition key to RUN but do not start the engine. Press the L arrow on the programmer. It will then identify your vehicle and display a series of options on its screen. When completed, turn the key to OFF and disconnect the cable from the diagnostic connector. Now you’re ready to Feel the Power! Hypertech’s Power Tuning can be stored in only one (1) vehicle at a time. The Power Programmer can be reconnected to remove the Power Tuning and return the vehicle to the factory programming at any time. After you have performed this step, your vehicle will be in its stock configuration.

You may also reconnect your programmer at any time to change the programming. For example, if you have replaced your factory tires with different diameter tires, you will want to correct your speedometer, odometer, and automatic transmission shift points. Simply reconnect your programmer, answer the necessary option(s), and reprogram your vehicle. You do not have to return to stock first.

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42-48 Ford Car Installation Instructions

Remove all parts from you dash, except Speedo trim ring. Install ( 10 ) 8/32 x 5/8 studs in dash adapter as shown in Photo #1.
Install ( 2 ) Gauges in dash adapter as shown in Photo #2.
Install dash adapter as shown in Photo #3
From rear of dash.
Using ( 2 ) 10/32 x 3/8 Pan Head Screws & Washers.
Install the 2 outside gauges as shown in photo #4 & #5.
Do Not Over Tighten Gauges to Panel. Overtightening may break the glass. Leave Clear Protective Covering On Your Panel Until It Is Com- pletely Installed, To Protect The Highly Polished Surface.

This is what it will look like before gauge trim ring is installed. If your dash still has the studs on the rear of the gauge trim ring they will have to be removed. Use doubled sided tape, or silicone to re-install trim ring. Install ( 4 ) 8/32 x 5/8 studs in adapter. Use brackets supplied to install Speedo or Tach adapter in dash from the rear. The 2 holes closest to outside edge of adapter is for the brackets. In some cases these brackets will have to be bent slightly. Now install Speedo or Tach as shown.

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Ford Bath Immersion Tester Elcometer 1270 Operating Instructions

The Elcometer 1270 Ford Bath Immersion Tester is designed to perform, with high reproducibility, a large number of standardised or conventional tests in order to assess the resistance of coatings, notably to blistering, when immersed in water.

Coated metal sheets are laid at an angle of 15°-20°on a grooved bottom and fully immersed in de-ionised water, warmed to 40°C ±1°C (104ºF ±2ºF). Once a predetermined time is reached, the samples are removed and the coating is inspected. The instrument is very simple and consists of a plastic tank with grooved sample holder, a plastic cover and a heater with circulation pump.

Features
• Easy to use and clean
• Bright LED temperature display, resolution 0.1°C
• Keypad operation
• Accurate temperature control
• Adjustable high temperature cut-out/dry-running protection

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1937-1948 Ford Disc Conversion 4 3/4” GM Bolt Circle Installation Instructions

1937-1948 Ford Disc Conversion 4 3/4” GM Bolt Circle Installation Instructions

iNSTALLATION:
1. Remove early Ford drums, brakes and backing plates from spindles. Make sure you retain the bearing nut and keyed washer.
2. Thoroughly clean grease and dirt from spindle. Check for cracks and damage.
3. Using the hardware supplied in the kit install the caliper mounting bracket on the REAR surface of the spindle using the lockwashers between the spindle and mounting bracket. DO NOT omit lockwashers as they are essential to the proper alignment of the bracket. If round spindles are being used check for adequate clearance between the spindle and bracket. FILE BRACKET if necessary. The bracket may be installed so caliper is forward or rearward of spindle centerline. REARWARD INSTALLATION IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
4. Examine the inner wheel bearing seating area on the spindle for nicks, ect. Emery cloth area as required for a smooth surface.
5. Slide bearing adapter on spindle and drive into place using a hammer and a piece of tubing or pipe of suitable dimensions (1 1/2” pipe works great). DO NOT DAMAGE THE ADAPTER WHILE INSTALLING (use a rag for padding between tool and adapter). Drive adapter on until it seats firmly against spindle inner bearing shoulder.

NOTE: Bearings and adapter are machined to a +.0005” tolerance. If bearing does not slide onto adapter easily it may be due to tolerance “stack up.” This can be rectified by a small amount of fine emery “paper-work” on the bearing seating surface of the adapter. Check inner bearing for fit.

6. Fit inner wheel bearing for trial fit.
7. Grease inner and outer bearing with high temperature wheel bearing grease, install rear bearing and grease seal.
8. Install rotor on spindle followed by the outer wheel bearing then stock Ford washer and retaining nut. Adjust bearings as required and install cotter key and bearing dust cap.
9. Install caliper on mounting bracket with bleeder FACING UP using stock GM mounting bolts. Make sure that bolts aren’t bent or damaged before installing.
10. Fill the brake system with DOT 4 brake fluid, bleed and inspect for leaks.
11. Check for any brake caliper / rotor / wheel interference.

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97-98 Ford Air Dam 4×2 and 4×4 Installation Instructions

Tools needed: 8mm open end wrench or socket 7/16 socket or open end wrench 1/4×1 bolts, 5/16 flat washers and nuts
1. Using the 8mm wrench, remove the factory Air Dam.
2. Position Air Dam aligning the center hole of Air Dam with the center hole of bumper.
3. Using a bolt with flat washer on the bolt, push bolt up through Air dam into bumper.
4. Install a flat washer, and a locking nut from above. DO NOT tighten at this time.
5. Install the balance of the bolts making sure that a flat washer is against the Air Dam.
6. Once all bolts are installed, tighten starting from the center of the Air Dam working right and then center of the Air Dam working left.

Ford 4×2 Air Dam Fog Light Installation Instructions
Tools needed: 7/16 open end wrench
Note: The lights are marked with the word “TOP” on the lens face.
1. Feed light wires through slotted hole in Air Dam light pocket and align driving light center bolt with square hole in light pocket.
2. Place dish-shaped washer over light bolt and install nut; do not tighten at this time.
3. Gently pull wire slack through slot. One of the Air Dam bolts can be used for attaching the black ground wire with the eyelet.
4. Complete the wiring of the lights. The lights are fully adjustable in the pockets. Turn lights on and aim where desired. Hold the lights and tighten driving light nut with 1/2” open end wrench.

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VariShock 1960-1977 Ford/Mercury Bolt-In Front Coil-Over Conversion, QuickSet 1 Installation and Tuning Guide

Remove Factory Shock and Spring
Raise front end of car and secure with jack stands. Wheels must not be in contact with ground.
1. Remove wheels, making note of which side of vehicle they were removed from.
2. Unbolt lower shock mount from spring perch (Figure 3-1).
3. Unbolt upper shock mount from shock tower (Figure 3-2).
4. Remove shock and mount from vehicle (Figure 3-3).
5. Using a spring compressor, remove the coil spring. Follow the tool manufacturer’s instructions for proper use of
6. the spring compressor. Unbolt lower spring perch from control arm.

Install Shock Tower Adapter (TCP COLVF-1X)
The shock tower adapter must be installed before proceeding. Refer to the installation guide packaged with your adapter kit. Depending upon the year and model of your vehicle, you will have received one of the following kits: TCP COLVF-13, TCP COLVF-14 (shown), or TCP COLVF-15. Shock Assembly - Lower Crossbar
On each urethane bushing put a small amount of poly lube on the area that will contact the inside of the lower
8. shock eye. Press two bushings into each shock eye, one from each side. Once completely seated apply poly lube to the
9. inside bore of the bushings. Thread the 1/2” set screws into two of the crossbar halves and then place an aluminum crush washer over the
10. remaining set-screw stud.

11. Insert the crossbar assembly into the shock-eye bushing from one side, and then one of the unused crossbar halves into the opposite side. Thread them together until tight.
12. Using a vise and an adjustable wrench or two adjustable wrenches, tighten the crossbar halves until they are clocked evenly with each other and are perpendicular to the length of the shock. DO NOT tighten more than 1/2 turn.
Coil springs will NOT be installed at this time in order to more easily manipulate the suspension system.

Shock Installation - Mock Up
13. The outer shock tower reinforcment to which the factory suspsension bump stop is attached can be removed for easier access when mounting the upper stem of the shock. IMPORTANT: The shock tower reinforcement must placed back into it’s installed position when checking clearances in the following steps.
14. Bolt the shock’s lower crossbar to the top-side of the upper control arm at the factory spring perch mounting location. Use the 3/8-16 x 1-3/4” hex bolts, flat washers and locknuts provided. A flat washer should be used below the bolt head and the locknut. Torque to 30-35 lb/ft.
15. Set shock valving to the softest setting, fully extend the shock, and then insert the shock’s top stem through the tower-adapter mount hole. Raise and support the suspension using a floor jack.
16. Place the thick stem washer over the shock pivot stud followed by the 5/8” OD aircraft washer and thread the 5/8-18 half locknut onto the stud. (Refer to tower adapter instructions for exploded illustration.) Do not tighten locknut to final torque specs at this time. You will be unbolting the shock stem shortly.

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97-03 Ford F-150 Flare Side Step Covers

Prefit Before Painting. Install new, unpainted parts according to these instructions.Then remove parts, paint them and re-install.
Painted or Altered Parts are Non-Refundable
Remove the factory step cover. In the center of the lower – front hole drill a 1/8” hole through the center of the second panel as shown in fig.A, this hole will give you access to attach the step cover with the longer screw supplied in the hardware packet. The remaining 3 screws must be used with a washer as shown in fig.B.

The following painting procedures MUST be followed EXACTLY for PROPER ADHESION and to prevent fish eyes
1. To remove any mold release contaminants, clean the back of the part first. Using 2 new clean rags, saturate the first rag with plastic prep cleaner* and begin cleaning. Then use the second rag to remove the prep cleaner. Continuously fold both rags to their clean sides during the process. Use 3 sets of new rags throughout the process. This prevents mold release contaminants from transferring to the painted surface.
2. Repeat step one on the front of the part.
3. Rinse the part with water. Apply a generous amount of Ajax® or sand fix* to a red scuff pad* (3M Scotch Brite Brand) and scrub the surface to be painted THOROUGHLY (especially where the 2-sided tape is installed, on the back side of the part, and all the hard to reach areas). Then rinse with water and dry. The scrubbed surface should be dull. If any shiny spots show, repeat the process on those areas.
4. Using another set of clean new rags, again clean the surface to be painted with plastic prep cleaner.
5. Spray the surface to be painted with adhesion promoter* including the areas where the 2-sided tape is installed (follow the instructions on the can for application and drying time).
6. Apply 3 to 4 coats of urethane primer* with flex additive* (follow the instructions on the can for application and drying time).
7. Wet sand primer with 600 grit sandpaper. Be careful not to sand through the primer. If you do, you MUST clean those areas with plastic prep cleaner, apply adhesion promoter and prime. Once the primer has dried, wet sand the areas that were touched up. Your surface is now ready for paint.
* These items can be purchased at any auto body supply store.

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